MY1PATH

This is still in progress. I will not let it leave my garage so it cannot get pushed aside for another decade... Small things, nothing worth documenting and One big thing! Nistune is coming to Pathfinder ECU's!!! Some of you may remember that I've been playing with Nistune on M30 ECU when I converted my 89 to fuel injection. In the coming month I should be playing with Nistune on a 1993 Pathfinder ECU. More to come in a separate thread when it does!

I found a workaround, we'll see how long it lasts... ... err this just popped up 1105 of those images have been on there for 10+ years

More detail on what was done to the heads before coating. All the casting seams were removed, intake was left with a rough finish but exhaust had a minor polish done. There was a ridge around the valve seats that was carved away with a very sharp chisel (by hand, no hammer) The chamber wall near the intake valve was carved back a little with an 80-grit flap wheel for better chamber filling and then the whole chamber was lightly polished. The valves had their faces sanded smooth. before/after

I know, I know this engine is taking me a decade. I have built and swapped a few other engines and still haven't finished this one. I just keeps getting pushed aside

The stock vg33er runs the water pump on the same belt as the steering pump. If you belt fails on the highway you will not notice a change in steering effort and if you are distracted you may not notice the temp needle rapidly climbing... This setup puts the water pump on the same belt as the alty instead of sharing it with the steering pump. The benefit is that if your water pump belt breaks your whole dash lights up because your alty stops too. I cut up a pulley from a 97 q45 to press and weld into the vg33er pulley to get the correct offset I needed.

TBC Heads, Valves and Exhaust ports

Update: It appears the company Iciba, who makes the 122555S 55mm stud does not include the knurl in their measurement. These ended up being 5mm too long and would bottom out on the lug nut. I am working with SNC on the matter right now to get the correct fitment.

The lack of cup holders

For your MPG interest, More details on my 1993 top to bottom: 3/8 intake manifold insulator Jim Wolf Tech stage 1 camshafts Stock block 308,000 miles Gibson 2.5" cat back Chevy 16" (19lb alloy) with P225/75r15 tires (nearly 100 lbs less rotating mass than most sets of 31's) Depending on driving conditions we've seen 20+ MPG but 17-19 is more common for our mixed driving which is 75% highway. I hope to keep or improve this when she goes 3.3. ON the flip side my (MPFI) 89 does worse on MPG. But its lifted, extra wide wheels, typical D/E-rated 31x10.5" tires, heavy bumpers, fender liners are missing (air pockets). It also mostly does short trips with very little highway time and I think the Euro cam with its really long duration is an efficiency hindrance for the lower engine speeds.

Donno how I wound up back here but while I am, I gotta correct myself... I have a set of JWT s1 in my 3.0 1993 PF and the torque comes in really early. I just bought a second set as my cam of choice for my next build.

With the exception converting to manual hubs, Snap ring thickness has more to do with deviation in parts than it does year/vin. If the snap ring groove location on your new shaft is within 0.005" of your old shaft you will use the same snap ring inside your hub. Also the hydraulic action of grease and trapped air may mislead you to thinking your snap ring is too thick when your axle isn't fully seated.

The splines are usually a pretty snug fit to that inner spider(the part it came out of) you may have to take the whole CV out to seat it. Popping the inner CV cover out gives you access to strike vertically on the center shaft to drive it back into the outer CV. If you get a new snap ring your first strike has to be solid with the joint straight or the snap ring will not compress enough to get inside the splines.

Some do, some don't depends on the brand you buy. BUT that would be the outer snap ring for the hub. In the case of the inner snap ring for the middle shaft into the CV it should always be there, they are assembled that way and it keeps the center shaft from popping out of the cage(and boot.) I've re-booted and re-caged a number of CV's Sure buying is easier but in some cases the factory part on hand is stronger than what you find at autozone and the cost of a factory strength one might just justify the extra effort of rebuilding.

Steak Fries

I'm gonna resurrect this thread to keep all the numbers in one place. I went searching and I found that Ichiba makes Some extended wheel studs that should FIT our vehicles. P/N: NS-122555S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 55mm long P/N: NS-122550S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 50mm long P/N: NS-122545S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 45mm long The best price I have found on these is http://SNCtuning.com, presently $2.69ea and also the most reasonable shipping for my location. I plan on using the 55mm on both my trucks to give me 13mm more rear stud than I had before. I'm going to order up a set and do studs when I do my brakes.

Just some useful information I thought I'd share. Sometimes after replacing an old o2 sensor you will start getting CEL code 45 injector leak (sometimes other fuel related codes). Before you waste time and money fussing with your injectors you should reset the ECU with a 24 hour unplug. Because you may not really have a problem at all. This can be done but disconnecting the battery or by getting under the seat and carefully unscrewing and removing the ECU connector from the ECU. The latter preserves your clock and radio settings but is a little bit harder to get to. WHY? The FSM won't tell you this but Just resetting/Clearing codes won't work here because it does not clear the rest of the ECU memory. The ECU uses a trim feature to adjust your fuel based on o2 sensor feedback. The trims change as the o2 sensor ages and when a new sensor in place the trims may be too far off (usually because the old sensor was telling the ECU to run richer) so the ECU thinks there is an injector leaking. Doing a 24 hour unplug resets these trims so the ECU can establish a new baseline.

Maybe a Nissan Quest / Mercury Villager 3.0. I'm pretty sure most the front filters were 3.3's and the ones that clear our steering system the best were from the xterra and frontier since they had the same steering system.

Resurrecting to add useful info for those shopping for alternatives or fabricating their own. 2-1/4" OD 1-15/16"ID Tabs are 3/16" Evercraft 7769179 still comes up at NAPA and appears to be the cheapest price local and online. Elsewhere there's Sunex 10202 4 Wheel Drive Spindle Nut Wrench and OTC 7698 2-1/4" Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket.

Good price for made to order!

Unless you want to go to the dealer (who will most likely sell you and auto radiator if the manuals are out of stock or NLA) I would just get the one with the auto cooler lines and ignore them. Notice parts sore listings will not say "auto transmission only" It works fine with both.

Spectra Premium. Bought this brand for several makes. Every time, Top quality OE FIT and excellent protective packaging. I have spent over 2x on aftermarket performance radiators that got damaged in shipping or plain didn't fit right. Run a bottle of Thermocure through your system after the swap and then flush with distilled water before filling with coolant.

Yes, a 3.0 crank will work in a 3.3. Just use all your 3.0 stuff it's been done many times before. I prefer the 3.3 pump because it flows more and I prefer the front mount filter because you don't spill on the starter or risk burning yourself on the header... BUT my 1993 has 290k on a stock 3.0 pump with 3.0 filter location and the engine has been been just fine over the last 25 years so I think you'll be just fine.

Replacing one side of the rail can unseat the other side. Even If you left it bolted the old seals will leak once disturbed even from wiggling the other side loose or twisting the hose off. Best to replace all 6 lower seals whenever you do any rail maintenance. Also, I prefer to use the vg33 one-piece rails, its solid tube across the front and no hose clamps to bother you when you navigate a coolant bypass hose into place. Also there are many hoses that can cause trouble under the manifold and if they've never been changed they are very prone to cracking when being handled. also moving the manifold around can dislodge some carbon/PVC residue that gums up the IACV, You can removed it and clean it, carefully take the Solenoid off the back and degrease the little plunger and spring, clean the casting it bolts to...

LOL I was pissed that all the rods were torqued down when I found it. I worked a little magic cleaning up excess oil around the screw with a rag taped to an extension and then a long wobble extension, a magnet and a scribe to get the two offending screws out and back in (inboard screw on front plate and rear plate)

The 3.3 pump is superior to the 3.0 pump. (That said the 3.0 pump has kept my family 93 going for 290k on good oil so it is 'good enough' for normal use) The 3.0 balancer will crack out if you machine it to fit a 3.3 crank. The producer of the crank pulleys has been under poor health for some time but has every intention of having another production run made when he gets well. I would have a shop make you a larger aluminum hub that bolts up to the existing pulleys, It does not need to be balanced but the bolts can be upgraded one size for better holding in the softer metal. Alternatively if someone buys me a lathe and a keyway broach I can make them