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MY1PATH last won the day on April 19 2018

MY1PATH had the most liked content!

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    Raised with His WD21 and Raising His young in another.
  • Birthday 03/25/1985

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '89 Pathfinder XE over 260k ===Intake:=== >Pathfinder MPFI Manifold. > ASCO Phenolic Intake Spacer. ===Air/Fuel=== > M30 75MM MAF > Infiniti M30 ECU running NIStune > R50 Pathfinder Injectors ===Ignition:=== >back to 'stock' ===Engine:=== > FAL180 Black Magic Extreme fan > Eurospec Z31 cams > 10:1 VG33E ===Exhaust:(complete)=== > Doug Thorley Headers > 2.5” exhaust Gibson Catback ===Wheels/Tires=== > 15x8 AR Baja Powdercoated Black > BALD 31x10.5 Nokian Vatiiva MT ===Steering & Suspension=== > HooHaa centerlink > Manual steering box for idler arm > R.C. XJ-Cherokee 3" Coils > Calmini UCA's ===DriveTrain=== > HB Manual Locking Hubs > 4 wheel Disc brakes
  • Place of Residence
    Mojave Desert, SoCal
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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    Weekend Warrior
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    Mojave Desert, SoCal
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Rockclimbing, Mtn biking, Offroading , jumping pathy "wraaaw! thump" & working on my pathy...

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  1. Update: It appears the company Iciba, who makes the 122555S 55mm stud does not include the knurl in their measurement. These ended up being 5mm too long and would bottom out on the lug nut. I am working with SNC on the matter right now to get the correct fitment.
  2. For your MPG interest, More details on my 1993 top to bottom: 3/8 intake manifold insulator Jim Wolf Tech stage 1 camshafts Stock block 308,000 miles Gibson 2.5" cat back Chevy 16" (19lb alloy) with P225/75r15 tires (nearly 100 lbs less rotating mass than most sets of 31's) Depending on driving conditions we've seen 20+ MPG but 17-19 is more common for our mixed driving which is 75% highway. I hope to keep or improve this when she goes 3.3. ON the flip side my (MPFI) 89 does worse on MPG. But its lifted, extra wide wheels, typical D/E-rated 31x10.5" tires, heavy bumpers, fender liners are missing (air pockets). It also mostly does short trips with very little highway time and I think the Euro cam with its really long duration is an efficiency hindrance for the lower engine speeds.
  3. Donno how I wound up back here but while I am, I gotta correct myself... I have a set of JWT s1 in my 3.0 1993 PF and the torque comes in really early. I just bought a second set as my cam of choice for my next build.
  4. With the exception converting to manual hubs, Snap ring thickness has more to do with deviation in parts than it does year/vin. If the snap ring groove location on your new shaft is within 0.005" of your old shaft you will use the same snap ring inside your hub. Also the hydraulic action of grease and trapped air may mislead you to thinking your snap ring is too thick when your axle isn't fully seated.
  5. The splines are usually a pretty snug fit to that inner spider(the part it came out of) you may have to take the whole CV out to seat it. Popping the inner CV cover out gives you access to strike vertically on the center shaft to drive it back into the outer CV. If you get a new snap ring your first strike has to be solid with the joint straight or the snap ring will not compress enough to get inside the splines.
  6. Some do, some don't depends on the brand you buy. BUT that would be the outer snap ring for the hub. In the case of the inner snap ring for the middle shaft into the CV it should always be there, they are assembled that way and it keeps the center shaft from popping out of the cage(and boot.) I've re-booted and re-caged a number of CV's Sure buying is easier but in some cases the factory part on hand is stronger than what you find at autozone and the cost of a factory strength one might just justify the extra effort of rebuilding.
  7. I'm gonna resurrect this thread to keep all the numbers in one place. I went searching and I found that Ichiba makes Some extended wheel studs that should FIT our vehicles. P/N: NS-122555S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 55mm long P/N: NS-122550S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 50mm long P/N: NS-122545S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 45mm long The best price I have found on these is http://SNCtuning.com, presently $2.69ea and also the most reasonable shipping for my location. I plan on using the 55mm on both my trucks to give me 13mm more rear stud than I had before. I'm going to order up a set and do studs when I do my brakes.
  8. Just some useful information I thought I'd share. Sometimes after replacing an old o2 sensor you will start getting CEL code 45 injector leak (sometimes other fuel related codes). Before you waste time and money fussing with your injectors you should reset the ECU with a 24 hour unplug. Because you may not really have a problem at all. This can be done but disconnecting the battery or by getting under the seat and carefully unscrewing and removing the ECU connector from the ECU. The latter preserves your clock and radio settings but is a little bit harder to get to. WHY? The FSM won't tell you this but Just resetting/Clearing codes won't work here because it does not clear the rest of the ECU memory. The ECU uses a trim feature to adjust your fuel based on o2 sensor feedback. The trims change as the o2 sensor ages and when a new sensor in place the trims may be too far off (usually because the old sensor was telling the ECU to run richer) so the ECU thinks there is an injector leaking. Doing a 24 hour unplug resets these trims so the ECU can establish a new baseline.
  9. Maybe a Nissan Quest / Mercury Villager 3.0. I'm pretty sure most the front filters were 3.3's and the ones that clear our steering system the best were from the xterra and frontier since they had the same steering system.
  10. Resurrecting to add useful info for those shopping for alternatives or fabricating their own. 2-1/4" OD 1-15/16"ID Tabs are 3/16" Evercraft 7769179 still comes up at NAPA and appears to be the cheapest price local and online. Elsewhere there's Sunex 10202 4 Wheel Drive Spindle Nut Wrench and OTC 7698 2-1/4" Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket.
  11. Unless you want to go to the dealer (who will most likely sell you and auto radiator if the manuals are out of stock or NLA) I would just get the one with the auto cooler lines and ignore them. Notice parts sore listings will not say "auto transmission only" It works fine with both.

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