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MY1PATH last won the day on October 13

MY1PATH had the most liked content!

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198 Excellent

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  • Rank
    Raised with His WD21 and Raising His young in another.
  • Birthday 03/25/1985

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '89 Pathfinder XE over 260k ===Intake:=== >Pathfinder MPFI Manifold. > ASCO Phenolic Intake Spacer. ===Air/Fuel=== > M30 75MM MAF > Infiniti M30 ECU running NIStune > R50 Pathfinder Injectors ===Ignition:=== >back to 'stock' ===Engine:=== > FAL180 Black Magic Extreme fan > Eurospec Z31 cams > 10:1 VG33E ===Exhaust:(complete)=== > Doug Thorley Headers > 2.5” exhaust Gibson Catback ===Wheels/Tires=== > 15x8 AR Baja Powdercoated Black > BALD 31x10.5 Nokian Vatiiva MT ===Steering & Suspension=== > HooHaa centerlink > Manual steering box for idler arm > R.C. XJ-Cherokee 3" Coils > Calmini UCA's ===DriveTrain=== > HB Manual Locking Hubs > 4 wheel Disc brakes
  • Place of Residence
    Mojave Desert, SoCal
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Mojave Desert, SoCal
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Rockclimbing, Mtn biking, Offroading , jumping pathy "wraaaw! thump" & working on my pathy...

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  1. This is wrong, I have r33 GTR transfer case (ATTESA) in the garage. It uses a clutch pack in a basket/drum similar to a motorcycle clutch. A transfer case chain similar to the Pathfinders TX10 chain is attached to a basket/drum around the rear output shaft. The alternating clutch plates transfer torque from the rear output to the chain which then turns the front driveshaft. Instead of a clutch spring, an electric pump pressurizes a hydraulic system to apply pressure against the the clutch pack, its literally just a hydraulic piston. A PWM solenoid valve on the return line regulates the system pressure from 20~200 psi and this is controlled by the ATTESA computer. While ATTESA is an AWD system, it is a transferase system (not a center differential). The rear wheels are always powered regardless of how much torque is sent to the front wheels. Simplified: In a transfer case system, if you stop the permanently driven wheels then everything stops. But in a center diff system, if you stop ANY pair of wheels the other pair will continue to spin.
  2. Spin an egg on the table, now stop it very briefly and let go... it will try to start spinning again because you stopped the shell but not the fluid inside. Moving parts next to other moving parts will translate some fluid friction. If its a clutch type engagement the moving parts are really close to each other so lots of fluid friction is translated over. This is actually how torque converters and viscous differentials work but the fluid energy transfer is maximized even more by way of specially shaped turbines. I've run out of time to go in depth, but in a nutshell I prefer manually shifted 4x4 for off roading vehicles and true AWD systems for street vehicles that may encounter adverse conditions. (r50/qx4 auto mode is not true AWD...)
  3. No, VG33 ECU's are completely different. Getting support for an unsupported ECU involves talking Matt into supporting vg33 ECU's while he still has MANY other supported models on more popular tuning platforms and thoes take priority. Getting support for 90-95 pathfinder took decades... And after having a look at the bin files, it still needs development... My solution, before this, was to run a supported ECU like the M30. This requires a rewire but i was converting an 89 to fuel injection so I was doing a complete re-wire anyway. Re-wiring for a 90-95 ecu will let you ditch annoying things like EVAP sensors and other extra crap they added to the vg33 but it might also effect tach/speedo function if they were tied to the ECU.
  4. I got all the conformal coating (clear insulation) cleaned up around the working locations on the ECU. It looks like Nissan put it on twice as thick on the pathfinder ECU's. Amazon Prime has me waiting 1-2 weeks for the things I need to go any farther. I placed the order last week and it said get it by the 12-13th... Now it says expected the 16th and Friday it will probably say arriving Monday... ANYWAY stay tuned, and I will update when I get to make progress again! I can tell you from the Nistune'd M30 ecu I had in my '89 that Nissan likes to error on the side of caution. Timing was good under light load but a little more conservative under heavy load. I'm fine with this, esp for towing. Fuel under acceleration was richer than 11.8:1 which is too much, it won't hurt anything but it leaves some power on the table for the N/A tune. Reducing fuel to 12:1~12.5:1 provided noticeable improvement. This improvement was measured using an RPM triggered stop watch built into the software.
  5. Nistune Nistune is now supporting 90-95 v6 pathfinders (and pickups). The owner of a 1995 reached out to me with the good news! He's running a VG33 and his 1995 Nistune'd ECU has been tuned to run the vg33er (supercharged xterra/frontier) MAF and injectors. I immediately bugged Matt (from down under) at Nistune and he said yes my 1993 is now supported (90-95). I ordered my board from Past Power Innovations (previously ASCO) and I should begin install this week. Disclaimer DIY ECU socketing is NOT recommended for the average hobbyist, mistakes can set you back hundreds of dollars and weeks in international shipping. Typical installers might charge $80-$100 on top of the board itself ($240) which is cheap insurance if you have any doubts about your own skills or equipment. Still wanna DIY? If you've never done anything like this before I suggest you Grab a cheap spare ECU from the junk yard, make sure it works and drives properly with no codes. De-solder the ECU chip, remove it, put it back in and re-solder it. Does it still work and drive properly with no codes? You will either fly or fail and then you can make a more educated decision. Helpful tip: Read the Nistune Soldering Guide and use 63/37 Tin/Lead Rosin Core solder 0.030" if you can get in your country. (USA can) (60/40 Tin/Lead also works very well but avoid the lead-free stuff if you can) What does it do? This is most beneficial to those boosting or making over 200HP. Stock ECU/MAF/injectors will take you to 200HP without modification. The main purpose is to give you complete control over fuel and timing. It will also allow you to make injector size changes and MAF changes. (Like my favorite combo: 344cc injectors and Z32 MAF) Beyond that, there are lots of other parameters that vary by ECU model and what's been "decoded" for that model. Some examples are: -electronic idle speed control -the ability to add timing-based Idle stabilization -rev limits -safety rev limits (neutral/park) -AFR's during warm up
  6. MY1PATH


    This is still in progress. I will not let it leave my garage so it cannot get pushed aside for another decade... Small things, nothing worth documenting and One big thing! Nistune is coming to Pathfinder ECU's!!! Some of you may remember that I've been playing with Nistune on M30 ECU when I converted my 89 to fuel injection. In the coming month I should be playing with Nistune on a 1993 Pathfinder ECU. More to come in a separate thread when it does!
  7. MY1PATH


    I found a workaround, we'll see how long it lasts... ... err this just popped up 1105 of those images have been on there for 10+ years
  8. MY1PATH


    More detail on what was done to the heads before coating. All the casting seams were removed, intake was left with a rough finish but exhaust had a minor polish done. There was a ridge around the valve seats that was carved away with a very sharp chisel (by hand, no hammer) The chamber wall near the intake valve was carved back a little with an 80-grit flap wheel for better chamber filling and then the whole chamber was lightly polished. The valves had their faces sanded smooth. before/after
  9. MY1PATH


    I know, I know this engine is taking me a decade. I have built and swapped a few other engines and still haven't finished this one. I just keeps getting pushed aside
  10. MY1PATH


    The stock vg33er runs the water pump on the same belt as the steering pump. If you belt fails on the highway you will not notice a change in steering effort and if you are distracted you may not notice the temp needle rapidly climbing... This setup puts the water pump on the same belt as the alty instead of sharing it with the steering pump. The benefit is that if your water pump belt breaks your whole dash lights up because your alty stops too. I cut up a pulley from a 97 q45 to press and weld into the vg33er pulley to get the correct offset I needed.
  11. MY1PATH


    TBC Heads, Valves and Exhaust ports
  12. Update: It appears the company Iciba, who makes the 122555S 55mm stud does not include the knurl in their measurement. These ended up being 5mm too long and would bottom out on the lug nut. I am working with SNC on the matter right now to get the correct fitment.
  13. For your MPG interest, More details on my 1993 top to bottom: 3/8 intake manifold insulator Jim Wolf Tech stage 1 camshafts Stock block 308,000 miles Gibson 2.5" cat back Chevy 16" (19lb alloy) with P225/75r15 tires (nearly 100 lbs less rotating mass than most sets of 31's) Depending on driving conditions we've seen 20+ MPG but 17-19 is more common for our mixed driving which is 75% highway. I hope to keep or improve this when she goes 3.3. ON the flip side my (MPFI) 89 does worse on MPG. But its lifted, extra wide wheels, typical D/E-rated 31x10.5" tires, heavy bumpers, fender liners are missing (air pockets). It also mostly does short trips with very little highway time and I think the Euro cam with its really long duration is an efficiency hindrance for the lower engine speeds.

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