Jump to content

MY1PATH

Members
  • Content Count

    5,762
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    23

MY1PATH last won the day on April 19 2018

MY1PATH had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

184 Excellent

1 Follower

About MY1PATH

  • Rank
    Raised with His WD21 and Raising His young in another.
  • Birthday 03/25/1985

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    ghj018

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '89 Pathfinder XE over 260k ===Intake:=== >Pathfinder MPFI Manifold. > ASCO Phenolic Intake Spacer. ===Air/Fuel=== > M30 75MM MAF > Infiniti M30 ECU running NIStune > R50 Pathfinder Injectors ===Ignition:=== >back to 'stock' ===Engine:=== > FAL180 Black Magic Extreme fan > Eurospec Z31 cams > 10:1 VG33E ===Exhaust:(complete)=== > Doug Thorley Headers > 2.5” exhaust Gibson Catback ===Wheels/Tires=== > 15x8 AR Baja Powdercoated Black > BALD 31x10.5 Nokian Vatiiva MT ===Steering & Suspension=== > HooHaa centerlink > Manual steering box for idler arm > R.C. XJ-Cherokee 3" Coils > Calmini UCA's ===DriveTrain=== > HB Manual Locking Hubs > 4 wheel Disc brakes
  • Place of Residence
    Mojave Desert, SoCal
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1989

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mojave Desert, SoCal
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Rockclimbing, Mtn biking, Offroading , jumping pathy "wraaaw! thump" & working on my pathy...

Recent Profile Visitors

17,215 profile views
  1. Just some useful information I thought I'd share. Sometimes after replacing an old o2 sensor you will start getting CEL code 45 injector leak (sometimes other fuel related codes). Before you waste time and money fussing with your injectors you should reset the ECU with a 24 hour unplug. Because you may not really have a problem at all. This can be done but disconnecting the battery or by getting under the seat and carefully unscrewing and removing the ECU connector from the ECU. The latter preserves your clock and radio settings but is a little bit harder to get to. WHY? The FSM won't tell you this but Just resetting/Clearing codes won't work here because it does not clear the rest of the ECU memory. The ECU uses a trim feature to adjust your fuel based on o2 sensor feedback. The trims change as the o2 sensor ages and when a new sensor in place the trims may be too far off (usually because the old sensor was telling the ECU to run richer) so the ECU thinks there is an injector leaking. Doing a 24 hour unplug resets these trims so the ECU can establish a new baseline.
  2. Maybe a Nissan Quest / Mercury Villager 3.0. I'm pretty sure most the front filters were 3.3's and the ones that clear our steering system the best were from the xterra and frontier since they had the same steering system.
  3. Resurrecting to add useful info for those shopping for alternatives or fabricating their own. 2-1/4" OD 1-15/16"ID Tabs are 3/16" Evercraft 7769179 still comes up at NAPA and appears to be the cheapest price local and online. Elsewhere there's Sunex 10202 4 Wheel Drive Spindle Nut Wrench and OTC 7698 2-1/4" Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket.
  4. Unless you want to go to the dealer (who will most likely sell you and auto radiator if the manuals are out of stock or NLA) I would just get the one with the auto cooler lines and ignore them. Notice parts sore listings will not say "auto transmission only" It works fine with both.
  5. Spectra Premium. Bought this brand for several makes. Every time, Top quality OE FIT and excellent protective packaging. I have spent over 2x on aftermarket performance radiators that got damaged in shipping or plain didn't fit right. Run a bottle of Thermocure through your system after the swap and then flush with distilled water before filling with coolant.
  6. Yes, a 3.0 crank will work in a 3.3. Just use all your 3.0 stuff it's been done many times before. I prefer the 3.3 pump because it flows more and I prefer the front mount filter because you don't spill on the starter or risk burning yourself on the header... BUT my 1993 has 290k on a stock 3.0 pump with 3.0 filter location and the engine has been been just fine over the last 25 years so I think you'll be just fine.
  7. Replacing one side of the rail can unseat the other side. Even If you left it bolted the old seals will leak once disturbed even from wiggling the other side loose or twisting the hose off. Best to replace all 6 lower seals whenever you do any rail maintenance. Also, I prefer to use the vg33 one-piece rails, its solid tube across the front and no hose clamps to bother you when you navigate a coolant bypass hose into place. Also there are many hoses that can cause trouble under the manifold and if they've never been changed they are very prone to cracking when being handled. also moving the manifold around can dislodge some carbon/PVC residue that gums up the IACV, You can removed it and clean it, carefully take the Solenoid off the back and degrease the little plunger and spring, clean the casting it bolts to...
  8. MY1PATH

    VG34ER

    LOL I was pissed that all the rods were torqued down when I found it. I worked a little magic cleaning up excess oil around the screw with a rag taped to an extension and then a long wobble extension, a magnet and a scribe to get the two offending screws out and back in (inboard screw on front plate and rear plate)
  9. The 3.3 pump is superior to the 3.0 pump. (That said the 3.0 pump has kept my family 93 going for 290k on good oil so it is 'good enough' for normal use) The 3.0 balancer will crack out if you machine it to fit a 3.3 crank. The producer of the crank pulleys has been under poor health for some time but has every intention of having another production run made when he gets well. I would have a shop make you a larger aluminum hub that bolts up to the existing pulleys, It does not need to be balanced but the bolts can be upgraded one size for better holding in the softer metal. Alternatively if someone buys me a lathe and a keyway broach I can make them
  10. MY1PATH

    VG34ER

    Yeah so that bolt on the oil baffle was sticking up too much for the beefy Twin Turbo Rods to clear so I had to make some more room... Removing the lock washer was probably enough but I also shaved down the ridge on the head for a little extra clearance.
  11. MY1PATH

    VG34ER

    Pistons are in! That strange color is a Thermal Barrier Coating to reduce dome temperatures under boost, the pistons also have anti friction coated skirts.
  12. MY1PATH

    VG34ER

    Oil baffles clearanced to fit bigger pistons.
  13. MY1PATH

    VG34ER

    Oh yes, it's resemblant of the original L Series Datsun engines! Actually I picked this color on a build long before I even knew that about the Datsun L Series colors and all my builds have been this color since. But sadly it has been discontinued and I own the last 6 cans.
  14. MY1PATH

    VG34ER

    Paint showed up, hope to spray the whole block this weekend and install shiny brass freeze plugs...

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please REGISTER to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...