tmoore4512
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Posts posted by tmoore4512
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I concur with what the concept is surrounding the inhibitor/interlock relays.
Firmly believe corrosion is the culprit and will have to dig in deeper to see if I can locate it.
Thank you for the reply.
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Okay guys, been a bit.
Looking for some insight, as I am experiencing some perpetual starting issues.
Pathfinder will not start unless it has a booster or a set of jumper cables connected.
Before you say it….
Brand new battery, brand new cables and connectors, brand new starter and alternator. (Literally, within the last two weeks.)
My next course of action is to replace all the wiring that has to do with the starting circuit, as it would appear that something is forming enough resistance that it is hindering the flow to fire the starter…
Which leads me to my main question:
In the PDF manual (#23 electrical) it refers to the “inhibitor relay” or the “interlock relay” depending on the diagram.
Does anyone know what exactly this does and is it vitally necessary?
Open to your thoughts.
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It is next on the list! Planning on pulling all six and rebuilding them with new screens and O rings anyway...,for $20 bucks, I cant beat that. Besides they are relatively easy to pull...
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Just an update...
No stored codes in the ECU.
Vacuum lines are all in tact...and replaced, as of yesterday just to be sure, some were dry rotting anyway.
Disconnected O2 sensor, it got worse, back to the same when reconnected.
Temp sensor did nothing....hmmm... -
I need to add...that it runs great prior to getting to operating temperature...
Stupid question...but does the 95 ECU take a serious signal from the temp sender and allow it to affect fuel curves?
Its almost like it is not putting enough fuel to the air ratio (throttle plate open), or maybe it is a leaky injector...dumping too much fuel?
Frustrated to say the least. -
Here I am again....sobbing uncontrollably.
Went out and started the pathfinder, let if warm up....then the oldest boy and I went for a very VERY short test drive.
Dang thing is doing the exact same thing.
Stutters and hesitates if I try to accelerate anything more than VERY SLOWLY.
Absolutely ZERO codes, and no CEL.
It is doing the exact same thing it was doing from the get go.
I am now...at a loss.
Is it beer thirty? -
Okay I am back,
The problem persisted once the motor warmed up to operating temperature. Prior to that the issues were pretty non existent.
Here is what I did after tracing and repairing rat chewn wiring. (Jacklegs!):
Removed MAFS, and alcohol/Q-tipped it. (It was pretty nasty).
Determined which wire in the harness was the ground, cut stripped and soldered/heat shrunk...and tied to known good chassis ground...
Holy mother of sweet baby Jesus, it is running better.
Still has a slight miss at times, but what can I say....at least it will idle and drive!
I proceeded to spray down the engine bay with degreaser and rinse it out...rats had made quite a mess and there was some sap and other residue built up....
Runs good for now. Will address the miss next RDO. But at this time...at least it is not going to the junk yard.
Thanks for all the input guys.-
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Sorry for long delay...life has been wild.
TPS was bad, replaced it. Problem persists.
I am leaning towards MAF, but I have yet to see a CEL or a code for this. After I get home this afternoon I will check it out...
Hope all is well with you guys. -
When I get off shift I will put a meter on it and check output voltage just to confirm.
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Alternator is good to go, battery is as well.
Did some digging, and I believe the TPS is bad.
With it unplugged it acts exactly the same as it does with it plugged in.
More testing to come. -
Been working out of the truck, using winch for pulling wood, rock, etc.
No mud, river crossings or anything like that. I did...but no more, been several years.
Maxima alternator was swapped about 4 months back, could be defective... -
Surprisingly no codes stored.
Did the O2 sensor test and it checked out.
Manifold is cracked! -
Good points, thank you.
I will check codes tonight, but have not seen the CEL on even though I know it stores them. -
Hey guys, been a 'finder owner for a long long time. Had an issue the other night that has me scratching my head.
Utilized the winch for the 1000th time, and when I did the engine quit. Basically every time I would spool in or out, while the truck was idling, it would die. Popped the hood, and held throttle to around 3K RPM and completed the task. Noting that at times it would sound like it was going to die, so I would have to adjust throttle to compensate. Put everything back to normal and all was well.
A few days later:
Vehicle was running superb as usual, came to a stop at a traffic light, took off and she stumbled, and began to back fire and idle very rough if I pressed on the accelerator. I could barely make it to 25 MPH and found a parking lot. Popped the hood and checked everything I could, nothing out of the ordinary.
It had been since the last oil change that I had run a seafoam treatment, and once I limped it home, I did the "through the intake" treatment as I usually do. Only this time I noted that the driver side exhaust manifold was leaking seafoam to the ground. Telling me that either a valve seat is bad, or worse.
Where would you start? Suggestions?
Next day off I am going to do a compression check, and go from there. Really feel like it is a valve issue, but I value the input from several of the veterans on this forum, and welcome your responses.
I don't "mud," cross rivers or bodies of water. Most of my driving is on road, and occasionally off road to a job site, but dust is the only enemy. I work out of this truck, and it has been very dependable.
I regularly service the vehicle, and talk nicely to it all the time. I mean just the other day we had a candle light dinner, and watched Netflix.
Any help will be appreciated.-
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Okay guys, been a few. I now have around 6,000+ miles on the rebuild with zero issues. Temperatures are great, and it shifts fantastic.
Sorry for the delay. I have been swamped at work. -
Dude your tire carrier looks great.
I trimmed my rear fender wells...
Did not think I needed to until I hauled a heavy load in the rear cargo area and the 35's were rubbing in the turns... -
Discovered that the tension adjustment bolt had apparently became loose and then fell out of my alternator bracket...thus the belt became loose and floppy...and noisy...sigh. I need to replace the tension bolt now.
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That is strange...location exactly? I do not believe I have one on mine...Will check tomorrow when the sun comes up
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Yep....although I put 1800 into a transmission rebuild... doh
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Well it is the second compressor...this one I put on before the last trans went out...then it sat for 11 months and 23 days before I could afford to rebuild the trans...and what do you know...the compressor goes out about 6 weeks after the trans is installed...and about a month OUT of warranty....sigh.
Front seal...again. Too bad the parts are not available to fix it myself...
And yes you can buy rebuild kits but the actual ceramic seal does NOT come with the kit...
Already tried that! -
Drove it several counties over...Man I miss having AC
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Drove it to take off the trash, and discovered my radiator is leaking...doh.
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Well then, it happened I see...welcome back Slick.
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Looked at it when I pulled into the driveway from work...
I work too much
WD21 interlock relay/inhibitor relay
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
All great points and things I will try next. I have not worked on this dude in years, life happens. Hell, still have all the components to do the SAS sitting there. Sigh.
But she's gotta start and run reliably first.
Thanks again.
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