nige

Well I am officially off the iPhone4 and back on a BlackBerry (9100). Here's my PIN for my fellow BB owners, add me to chit chat on BBM! 23210D39. It's so nice to have a real keyboard and a good email client. BTW if anyone wants it, I am selling my iPhone 4 32GB. It's spent it's life (since Nov '10) in an Otterbox Defender case so it's in mint condition except for a 1/2" hairline scratch on the back. I will wipe the device, clean it up, pack it in the original box with all the accessories and the Otterbox case and sell for $500. PM me if you're interested in buying it.

try a landscaping store or nursery. Pond liner will also work really well. The tcase shifter took a few tries to get it in the right shape so it cleared the dash and back of the hole, but that is with a 1994-95 dash. Since you have the older dash, you should be able to slide a pipe over the end and bend it while it's still attached to the truck. I think you do the bending when it's in 2HI, I'm not sure. If you are worried, you can take the lever off the tcase, make your bend and offer it up again to see if it's enough. Bender (good name) and I slid one end in the 2" hitch reciever and a pipe on the other end to do the bending. It ended up resembling a half-streched lightning bolt when it finally fit. you gotta go pretty deep and stop/get stuck before water starts coming though that hole. It will probably get in through the door seals or holes in the floor first. keep cleaning and oiling that frame and don't let rust sit on it for long. you'll be sorry down the road if you don't

at least there was a recall for them

X2 make sure it's solid before you buy

same here, although I think it was a combination of things like leaks and air in the system. I had to take some bypasses and then i eventually just stopped running the trails and went to explore canyonlands 'roads' instead. When I got home, I replaced the fluid, some more corroded hard lines and the original rubber lines with the braided set from automotive customizers. I also lost a slide pin bolt from my rear caliper and had to replace the other rear caliper due to a siezed, leaking piston. After all that work, the brakes are solid again, although I rarely drive the pathfinder anymore. FWIW, I'm still on the original M/C and it feels fine.

the kitty porn is hilarious 50mm lens on my 60D makes for good kitty pics

it's not about who's right an wrong. It's about getting this guy's brakes working properly for as little as possible. Hopefully we all have a better understanding of his problem in the process and are able to apply that knowledge in later situations like this.

here's my gap guards. i used my old ones as a template and cut them from the corrugated rubber uncc speaks of. I used zip ties to hold them on and it's worked great: You can also bend your T-case shifter so that it clears the edge of the hole in. Try to avoid "notching" the floor since it will leave a hole around the rubber boot where noxious exhaust fumes can enter the cab.

i was gonna hold back my post indefinitely after warehouserat called my advice 'bad' but since we're piling it on him, why not... yes, replacing your brake fluid, bleeding the system and inspecting the hard and soft brake lines for leaks, damage or swelling is bad advice... If you want to know if the M/C may be faulty, why would you look for bubbles in the reservoir when you can feel it in the pedal? With the engine off, pump the brakes until they are firm, then push down on the pedal with lots of force and see if it holds, or slowly moves toward the floor. If the pedal travels to the floor, you might have a problem with the MC or a swelling rubber line. If you can't build pressure until the pedal is firm, you have air in the lines, a leak in the lines, or a leak in the brake booster diaphragm or check valve. But going by warehouserat's logic, if you didn't see any bubbles in the reservoir while doing this, the M/C must be fine regardless of what the pedal does, right? But since your on a trip about bad advice, why tell him to do that? Why not tell him to disassemble the M/C and visually check for damage to the piston seals or sleeve? By the way, you would probably spend more on the stupid test strips than you would on a fresh bottle of DOT 3. Why chance it for a $7 bottle of brake fluid? I'll also add, from my experience, a good way to find out if you have a stuck caliper or shoe would be to get out and feel the trucks hubs and wheels after a short drive on the highway. You will feel a noticeable difference in the temperature of the hubs if you have a dragging brake. My rear caliper was dragging last winter and what tipped me off was the snow wouldn't stick to the wheel.

I would flush and fill the fluid, bleed it out a few times to make sure there are no bubbles and see if it makes a difference. Brake fluid does "go bad" after a few years because it slowly absorbs water which lowers the boiling point. An yes, do closely inspect your hard lines and rubber lines for corrosion, cracking kinks etc. If you live somewhere hot and mountainous, you might want to use DOT 4 fluid instead of DOT 3.

right now it's cans of coconut water with or without jelly, i don't care!

yeah the colorado nissan guys are awesome. You might also want to check out Nissannut's (Barry) forum called Nissan Trail Riders SAS section. It's got lots of build threads to read : http://www.nissantrailriders.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=10&sid=0d5bd579ab0190ceccdabbc90b08ea7c

i don't think it matters. I 've had a yellow top as my one and only for the last 4 or 5 years. It's been drained down to nothing a few times, but always held a good charge after plugging it into a good household battery charger.

im the same as silverton. 15psi for mud, 20psi if it's just a rough gravel road. Any less and i might damage a wheel. It also sucks when you get sand or dirt between the tire and rim which makes it leak. This tire is @ 15 psi

http://www.youtube.com/user/skrillaguerilla?feature=mhee

save your money and keep an eye out for an ARB like dududuckling's The steel WAAG brush guard will save you damage from a small deer though.

update from me, the touch screen keyboard is becoming unbearable and the native email client for the iphone is a really basic p.o.s. and things like attaching an image or document to an email is such a stupid process. I also have the most annoying echo of my voice during conversations so the voice quality is lacking too (im on vigin mobile which is an mvno on the bell network). Push notifications for everything except foursquare and txt msgs are garbage as well too. This phone doesn't get anything pushed to it until you turn the app on. The otterbox defender case works awesome, but the phone is too big and clumsy to throw in your pocket and go out for the night. All these negatives mean I don't really give a ........ about the big screen or the fancy camera or any games(i don't play them on the phone anyhow) or apps. I will miss Gas Cubby and animated radar screens, reading the news and maybe pr0n, but i don't care and I'm going back to BlackBerry and finding a 9100 Pearl. I thought the iphone would be good to combine a camera, ipod, phone and email into one, but it doesn't hold a candle to the Blackberry for me when it comes to phonecalls, email and push notifications. Maybe i will get an ipod touch again, but no more iphones or any other phone with a stupid touchscreen keyboard.

you can remove the cover for the column with 4 screws from the bottom, then all the wiring will be exposed and you can see if anything is pinched. be careful when you poke around in there, one of the wires is hot.

mine us usually around 13.8 at idle with nothing turned on. i have seen it go past 14 on occasion, but never past 14.2. Usually when you're above 2500rpm. I put a little 5-20v LED panel voltmeter in my truck. It gives you a good heads up if you are losing the alternator. Sometimes a good rev of the engine will give a dying alty a kick in the pants, but that's usually after you do a water crossing of some sort. The voltmeter also tells you when there is too much draw on the elec system and the alternator can't keep up with the demand. pretty useful info for ~$10 and an hour of your time installing it.

i used the gaskets included with thorley headers and they have yet to leak. It's been about 6 years since I installed them... maybe a bit longer O.P. do get your exhaust fixed as soon as you can, especially if you live somewhere in the rust belt. Leaking y-pipe flange will accelerate the corrosion of your driver's side floor boards and any other metal close to the leak, not to mention the dangerous exhaust fumes making their way in the cab via a cracked T-case shifter boot. Your leaky manifold means there are probably a couple studs that have broken. Replace the broken studs with 300zx TT studs. It's highly unlikely they will break again. If the manifold is warped, you may need to have it resurfaced before you replace a stud. It's a lot cheaper to do that than it is to buy and install headers unless you can't find a new y-pipe to replace yours with.

yes, it's caused by having too much oil in it. You may have blown an oil seal somewhere, so check the filter, pressure switch, and the weeping hole for the rear main seal (between the transmission and engine there is a small hole at the bottom of the bell housing). If you didn't excessively rev or load the engine, you might be ok, but it's best to clean any leaked oil off the areas I mentioned, get the proper amount of oil in there, start the truck up and watch for leaks. If the engine stays clean, take it for a mild test drive and check again. If there is not leaks, put the engine under load and check again. If it stays clean, consider yourself lucky, as the mechanic (if you could call them that) may have just spilled some on the manifold while they were over filling it. The engine can take about 3 5/8 quarts, and it's better to be a little low on oil, than too high.

if you can trade or afford it, get 15x8" wheels. I think 10" is too wide unless you are running tires wider than 12.5"

yes, you do need it, unless you enjoy replacing exhaust gaskets. My exhaust has blown the gasket in the same place 3+ times. If I had one more bracket pushing down on the top front part of the midpipe at that connection, I don't think I would have that much trouble with it, but i'm just going to weld the midpipe to the header y-pipe and be done with it. At this point in my truck's life, i'm more concerned with making things hold together rather than make it easy to take apart. Fix it or you will run into problems down the road including burning carpet, rusted floorboards and noxious gasses not originating from humans making their way into the cabin. It doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to stabilize and support the pipe. Bolt/weld your bracket to the frame or tranny, but avoid the body since it can move independently of the chassis.