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JackStraw1 last won the day on April 8 2016

JackStraw1 had the most liked content!

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About JackStraw1

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1994 4WD Pathfinder SE
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    NW Pennsylvania
  • Country
    United States

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  1. I can't get the cylinder out of the cylinder case (maybe someone can instruct me)so I'll throw this out there again. Does anyone have a lock with key for aut0 lock 94 path ?
  2. Here's what I've got. The pic on the bottom shows how it is supposed to look. on the top is the broken unit I've got. I guess if I pull the circlip on the end of the cylinder, the inner workings will slide out, so maybe I only need the cylinder.
  3. I am looking for the whole cylinder. But....I did not realize that the casing could be removed. I'll take another look at it today and see if mine can be taken apart
  4. Hey all, Long time. Looking for driver's side door lock cylinder for 94 Pathfinder SE with power door locks. Has 2 flat spots on it where the C - shaped switch assembly slides on. Can't find in the aftermarket parts world. I'll take the whole door if someone is parting out and close enough for me to pick up. I'm in Northwest Pennsylvania
  5. Nuts. I need a left parking brake cable for my 94 SE with rear discs. They don't show up anywhere online or at any of the major autoparts stores. Dealer here wants $108.40.
  6. Anyone know if Rob is still able to source dealer parts? Looks like he hasn't been active on here for a good while Sent him a PM for a part today before I noticed he hadn't posted in over 9 months. Appreciate if anyone has any other contact info for him Thanks.
  7. 20 years I've owned my 94 SE. 222k miles. Bought it with 40k. Finally starting to succumb to the rust belt blues The body mainly. Frame still holding strong.
  8. Maybe.... He used a light to check for voltage at the starter solenoid. So hard to say if threshold voltage to activate it really is there. Not sure what was meant by booster but I thinking maybe he tried to jump the solenoid directly from the battery ? If that didn't work then its either the starter, starter solenoid or bad power wire or bad connection from the power wire to the starter. I had the typical starter issues that these trucks are prone to and used a jumper directly from the battery to the solenoid. (After replacing the starter at least twice and still getting the same intermittent no crank situation) This worked well and always turned the starter over. Course you have to open the hood and touch the wire to the battery everytime you need to start the vehicle. Works well with one person if you have an automatic. Probably need someone to depress the clutch in a manual trans. Then I came across a starter relay mod somewhere in this forum that solved the problem (which seems to be caused primarily by old wiring) If memory serves the basic premise is this: the ignition signal is used to activate a relay (which requires much less voltage to activate) the relay then allows direct battery voltage to the starter solenoid. I've had no more intermittent starting issues since doing this. But I still keep the jumper wire attached just in case
  9. Follow up. No more intermittent CEL and ECU Code 51 since changing the #1 fuel injector. For anyone else experiencing this, if the diagnostics check out and the injector ohms out within spec, check the plugs. It was the only place I could get a sign that there was something wrong with the dry carbon fouled plug. Thanks for suggestions on getting it out. I really was torquing the crap out of it with my hand to the point where I thought I was going to break off the plastic if I twisted any harder. I ended up getting a long right angle needle nose from HF to fit pretty well. That plus a couple squirts with acetone/ATF mix and it started rotating immediately. That tool has become indispensable to me for working on this truck. Works great for breaking coolant hoses loose on the hose nipples in back of the plenum too when you get around to taking that off. Which you will......LOL
  10. I have tried to pull them off of junkyard vehicles and they always break. I think you would have to get a new one and the best person to ask for that is Rob (Alkorahil on NPORA). Other option maybe to seal the gap with some clear silicone calk. Been thinking of doing this myself but haven't got around to it. I have Dynamat all over the drivers side door and floor along with some Reflectix to keep the floorboard heat down. It's still loud. I mostly keep off the highway and turn up the stereo. lol,
  11. Did it do the high idle from the minute you first drove it? or is this something new ?
  12. nvm. I found a pair of big right angle needle nose that fit pretty well without crushing the plastic and that got it moving . After that was just a matter of time BTW, there's a vendor on Ebay that has Beck Arnley injectors for late model WD21's for $ 20 a piece if anyone is needing to replace an injector.
  13. Finally we have better weather here and I got around to doing some truck repairs and cleaning today. I'm still getting that intermittent Code 51 despite the diagnostic check testing ok . A plug check showed dry fouling of the number one plug. Plug is getting spark so I decided to change out the fuel injector. I had to nudge one of the screws with a hammer and chisel but got the retaining cap off. Problem is I can't get that frickin thing to budge. I'm twisting pretty hard on it and nothing (maybe half a mm) but really, nothing. Cleaned all around it with a brush to scrape of any rust/debris. I'm thinking about disconnecting all spark and putting the fuel pump fuse in and cranking it a few times to see if the fuel pressure will push it out. Anybody done this or got a better idea how to get the injector loose ?
  14. Might want to clean MAF sensor if that hasn't been done. Also, fuel injectors will sometimes fail intermittently when engine hot but run perfectly fine when cold.
  15. ^^^^^this and then...... No crank = no juice (or in extreme cases seized motor) If battery and alty check out then you need to look at wiring to starter. It is an endless source of problems on these vehicles and many, many starters have been replaced when it was in fact a wiring issue. Easiest thing to do is attach wire to the starter solenoid that is long enough to reach the battery. Turn key on. Touch end of wire to (+) terminal. This by passes most all wiring and delivers 12 volts directly to starter and should crank starter if starter is good. (yes it will spark a bit but it won't kill you. I used this for years to start before discovering the relay mod) Use a rubber handled tool to hold the wire if you're worried). If starter cranks then search on forum for starter relay mod. If starter does not crank - you have a bad starter or wiring from ignition is faulty.

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