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JackStraw1

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JackStraw1 last won the day on April 8 2016

JackStraw1 had the most liked content!

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About JackStraw1

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1994 4WD Pathfinder SE
  • Place of Residence
    Erie
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    Choose
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1994

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NW Pennsylvania
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

2,766 profile views
  1. Thanks. I gotta think its coming from one of those hoses. Looks like i get to pull the intake on my next day off :{ Sheisen
  2. Oops, this should have been posted in the 90-95 forum. Moderator please move it there
  3. Well.........I changed out my water pump and all that went well. It looks like I am still having a coolant leak at the rear ofthe engine closer to the passenger side. I don see any leaks on the heater core hoses as far down as i can trace them. To the pipes. The system seems to do well when pressurized but then losses pressure and leaks. Does anyone know if there's a heater core bypass hose or something similar back there ? And if so, can it be replaced without taking off the intake plenum ?
  4. Thanks Slarti, the extension did help ! Quick question if anyone's got their ears on today. I am installing a new waterpump on my WD21. I was going to use Blue Permatex but it came with a gasket. Looks kinda flimsy. I am trying to decide whether to go with the gasket and use a little Permatex as an adhesive to stick it down to the new pump or just pitch it and go with all Blue Permatex. FSM says liquid gasket. Also those little grooves at each end that help to index the pump in place... I'm thinking a little Permatex there as well ? Thoughts? Experience ? Happy Thanksgiving to everyone !!
  5. This was a great write up with great photos that really helped me with my timing belt change. I need to get back in to replace water pump and looked up this thread for reference, Unfortunately the pictures are no longer opening for me. Is there any way to get them back up ?
  6. I can't get the cylinder out of the cylinder case (maybe someone can instruct me)so I'll throw this out there again. Does anyone have a lock with key for aut0 lock 94 path ?
  7. Here's what I've got. The pic on the bottom shows how it is supposed to look. on the top is the broken unit I've got. I guess if I pull the circlip on the end of the cylinder, the inner workings will slide out, so maybe I only need the cylinder.
  8. I am looking for the whole cylinder. But....I did not realize that the casing could be removed. I'll take another look at it today and see if mine can be taken apart
  9. Hey all, Long time. Looking for driver's side door lock cylinder for 94 Pathfinder SE with power door locks. Has 2 flat spots on it where the C - shaped switch assembly slides on. Can't find in the aftermarket parts world. I'll take the whole door if someone is parting out and close enough for me to pick up. I'm in Northwest Pennsylvania
  10. Nuts. I need a left parking brake cable for my 94 SE with rear discs. They don't show up anywhere online or at any of the major autoparts stores. Dealer here wants $108.40.
  11. Anyone know if Rob is still able to source dealer parts? Looks like he hasn't been active on here for a good while Sent him a PM for a part today before I noticed he hadn't posted in over 9 months. Appreciate if anyone has any other contact info for him Thanks.
  12. 20 years I've owned my 94 SE. 222k miles. Bought it with 40k. Finally starting to succumb to the rust belt blues The body mainly. Frame still holding strong.
  13. Maybe.... He used a light to check for voltage at the starter solenoid. So hard to say if threshold voltage to activate it really is there. Not sure what was meant by booster but I thinking maybe he tried to jump the solenoid directly from the battery ? If that didn't work then its either the starter, starter solenoid or bad power wire or bad connection from the power wire to the starter. I had the typical starter issues that these trucks are prone to and used a jumper directly from the battery to the solenoid. (After replacing the starter at least twice and still getting the same intermittent no crank situation) This worked well and always turned the starter over. Course you have to open the hood and touch the wire to the battery everytime you need to start the vehicle. Works well with one person if you have an automatic. Probably need someone to depress the clutch in a manual trans. Then I came across a starter relay mod somewhere in this forum that solved the problem (which seems to be caused primarily by old wiring) If memory serves the basic premise is this: the ignition signal is used to activate a relay (which requires much less voltage to activate) the relay then allows direct battery voltage to the starter solenoid. I've had no more intermittent starting issues since doing this. But I still keep the jumper wire attached just in case
  14. Follow up. No more intermittent CEL and ECU Code 51 since changing the #1 fuel injector. For anyone else experiencing this, if the diagnostics check out and the injector ohms out within spec, check the plugs. It was the only place I could get a sign that there was something wrong with the dry carbon fouled plug. Thanks for suggestions on getting it out. I really was torquing the crap out of it with my hand to the point where I thought I was going to break off the plastic if I twisted any harder. I ended up getting a long right angle needle nose from HF to fit pretty well. That plus a couple squirts with acetone/ATF mix and it started rotating immediately. That tool has become indispensable to me for working on this truck. Works great for breaking coolant hoses loose on the hose nipples in back of the plenum too when you get around to taking that off. Which you will......LOL

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