Jotegir

The video provided by 208Tyler should cover the springs themselves. He says the part names and then putting the part name into google should get you the rest of the way. I am personally running OME 2928 HD springs in the front and Landrover LR 9447 in the rear. I also replaced the following when I did my lift: - strut bearing (NISSAN OEM) - strut bellows (KYB) - strut (KYB) - rear shock - I am running KYB but others run OME, or modified Bilstein's for more travel. - rear bumpstop - I had to order these from Australian e-bay for the r50 Terrano because they're discontinued everywhere in North America. Many people do not replace them or run some other kind of replacement. - there are also rubber strut gaskets which when the old strut are removed are almost always shot. They're meant to stop water ingress between the wheel arch and the engine bay. I replaced mine with gasket maker and have had no issues doing so for several years. I reused my strut spring seats because they were in good shape, but they're often starting to rust out and get lousy for many folks. They are available online but not on rockauto. Otherwise, when doing your lift you want to replace any bushing/joint which might be past it's prime, which can include: - upper rear control arm - lower rear control arm - front control arm front and rear - front ball joint - inner/outer tie rods I'd also recommend checking your strut tower brace area for rust when you pull the struts. My vehicle is Vernon/Kelowna/Kamloops only, not a known area for rust, and I had some developing in there I took the time to get on top of before it got bad. If you have an R50 that spent its whole life on the Island you're likely fine, but it's still good to check and get on top of. Good luck!

Mine were hard to turn and I cleaned them up in the ultrasonic cleaner and applied lots of anti seize, easy to turn now. Worth a try!

Get on the facebook group, Taylor Padawan makes + sells 4" SFD kits, he's doing a group order right now, I think he is at 9 or 10 and will cut off monday for deposits. He's done between 35-50 so far I think. People seem to like them

I have heard of some people running maxima injectors with 12 holes rather than our 4 or something on the facebook group. Haven't heard anything about fuel pumps, our intake is different than a lot of other vq's intakes so I haven't heard of a compatible plenum spacer either.

that's about the max you can go without running into strut spacing issues, you might still need wheel spacers as is but unlikely.

Hey no problem! I am running the OME Heavy Duty front springs. I think they are OME 2928. I wouldn't recommend the medium or light duty, you won't get as much lift and will lose more height when the vehicle is loaded. The KYB struts are just the ""excel-g" fairly basic strut for the vehicle. It's what most people run. OME has/had more expensive struts available with a bit more suspension stroke on them, but as far as we can tell they are currently discontinued/COVID restricted. When they were available user reviews were positive. OEM was not a typo! Aftermarket strut bearings are a known failure point on these vehicles - search the forum and you'll find several examples of them all going on lifted examples. One of mine gave up the ghost after less than 1000 KM post lift! Took the strut with it too - OEM bearings are quite a bit more expensive, but a lot less expensive than your time or someone else's time is worth for a stupid part failure. I do not have experience with the OME rear springs because I, like many others, run land rover springs.

OME's website sucks ass but I can assure you their lifts are good (and real!) A lot of us run the OME heavy duty springs out front, often paired with KYB struts and OEM strut bearings. More commonly you'll now see landrover springs out back because they're largely considered both superior and cheaper to most of the other offerings out there. Most of us did our lifts ourselves and assembled the parts collections on our own (and with the forum's help of course!) as there weren't/aren't really aftermarket "kits" available per se. Can't comment on BDS stuff.

When the 4 speeds start losing reverse it usually is a sign of a failing transmission and not a solenoid like people told you a few years ago. It is very common on these for reverse to go and then some time later the rest. The reason it works when the oil is cold is that there's enough material there to catch the reverse gear and engage on the bits of metal flakes, but not once the fluid has reached temperature and is rather thin.

rear main seal!

Common places on these are valve cover gaskets and oil coolers for leaks, not to mention RMS. It might just be burning it though, that is very common too. Mine does not leak at all but goes through quite a bit of oil.

Basic tools will get the job done but it is very, very unlikely to be the PCV valve. The 3.5 is well known for consuming oil and I'm sorry to say I've never heard of a PCV valve replacement solving the issue.

Those must be the Tracktiv ones. A few folks on facebook are running them if so.

I'd love to but I think it'll be a while before I make it down into the states again. Great channel by the way, been following the build since you started posting.

Great progress, those sliders look great too. Where are those seat covers from? I don't usually see them fitting quite that nice.

Thanks for the tips Slar! I was actually going to @ you and RainGoat in the original post as two of the people I recall giving great advice in the old thread, but the forum really didn't like that feature yesterday for some reason. I should have said, when I "checked" the CV, I put in a totally different one and it still occurs. I'll have to get the wheels spinning with the wheels in the air at some point, I haven't done a full investigation as snow is just on its way out up here. I do have the automatic transfer case! If the dash lights are to be believed (which I'll confirm in the "investigation" step), the front left engages and puts power down but the front right does not, at least for a minute or two until underway. Once the front right engages, it doesn't go away at stops or if you start and stop the vehicle with it engaged. Sounds like I'll have to do a bit of digging. I also forgot to mention in my writeup, when I did the initial power valve screws and associated work, I took every old liquid out of the car and put new liquid + filters in to get a good baseline going forward. Maybe I'll check the transfer case fluid anyway to see if there's anything supremely alarming like metal shavings or something. It isn't expensive. Faded "Sunlit Sand Metallic"! I kind of don't love it. I much prefer the faded version to what it allegedly was when new. I really don't like BROWN cars. The vaguely off-chrome it is right now is fine, I have no issue with it. I have LR9447s mounted, yeah. I think they're quite nice as far as ride quality goes. It's maybe about an inch taller out back? Not as much of an imbalance as some of the others posted here. I think when the tent goes on it'll sit closer to level. I went for the 7's as I figured I wouldn't need the extra spring rate for now. Droopy in the rear sounds like the opposite of everyone else's problem! If the OME MD rear ride quality is nice, maybe a cut down spacer out back to get your second R50 closer to level? As I understand its your "lighter duty" one, right? Thanks for the tip RE the ATX14A. As I said above, I think a bit more investigation is in order before calling this one. As far as I know, it could just be the dash light that's on the fritz at the moment. I've considered manual hubs, but I really like the look of the stock 03' and 04' LE wheels and am somewhat cautious of the hubs that fit them.

Well it looks like my old build thread got nuked as it was made in the "lost period".... so here's a new one! The last one was "maybe" going to be a build thread, so this one's the "confirmed" build thread! I'll begin with a brief review of the old thread and a few updates from the fall to bring us to today. This is my first "project" vehicle and more or less is my entire journey from knowing very little about working on cars to wherever I end up. I picked up my 2003 Pathfinder LE in June 2021 with 242,000k on the odometer. The vehicle was in good shape with some relatively minor rust in the usual spots, but none in the strut towers which is great. I believe I am the third owner and the vehicle has spent the majority of its life in the interior of British Columbia - so limited rust, but not much. Here she is the day I picked her up: Here's what the Pathfinder replaced, with the Pathfinder lurking in the background the same night I brought it home: Biggest disadvantage of the pathfinder so far? No dash spot for Lenore on long trips. She's tried to do this a few times on the Pathfinder's dash but she always falls off. Oh well, safety first kitty! The very first thing I did upon getting it home was address the power valve screws and a few other things. Upon the advice of some of our wise members, I did more or less every gasket above the valve cover gaskets (including those), the rear thermostat, the rear thermostat elbow hose, PCV valve, and of course the power valve screws. I didn't replace every vacuum line and crankcase breather hose as I had trouble finding the breather hoses locally. This was a mistake, as it turns out. The previous owner stated he had just done spark plugs, and they looked quite good. This is almost as deep as I got: Upon starting the car, it sounded terrible and the SES light immediately came on: vacuum leak. I tried a few times to diagnose the issue without pulling the everything I'd just done apart, but to no avail. I ended up re-doing most of my work as the line that had cracked was the one that ran underneath the lower intake plenum: basically back where I'd started! I got that sorted and did a coolant flush. This is the first time it ran properly after my work: Admiring it from the garage in the rain: After that I insured it for two months to drive it around in its stock form to do a bit of a shakedown to see if anything major would pop up before putting my lift in. It's a great vehicle to get me to the bike park and back! Here it is during that time: After being satisfied with my time with it during the shake down, I committed to lifting the vehicle. I went for OME HD front on KYB struts and LR 9447s out back with OME shocks. Unfortunately the shop I ordered the shocks from sent me the wrong ones, clearly for a 96-99. They returned them at their expense and I got new KYB shocks out back for now. If I get an SFD or similar in the future, I'll revisit the rear shocks and stick something else in there. I also added a front SFcreations skid plate and missing link to the vehicle, did a reasonable amount of rust removal/repair on the rear quarterpanels, a new exhaust, and probably some other minor things I'm forgetting about now. I did recently check the RMS as I thought it was starting to leak, but it turned out to be a stupid little crush washer in a plug above it that had just started to leak. The RMS itself looked great with non-factory RTV that looked pretty fresh in the area - so at some point, someone else had to deal with it. I need to get photos of the Pathfinder with its little lift in AND the decent tires - right now it is on small little winters that don't look particularly good. For now, I have the following things to attend to over this season at a minimum: Replace front right strut + bearing - the non-OEM strut bearing broke within 500km of replacing it, it's taken the strut with it too - right now it clicks as it rotates. I have the stuff and just need to chuck it in when I get a chance. I'd love to repack the rear LSD before the end of the season. Driving the vehicle around this winter has revealed it's quite worn out. I have a possible front diff issue I'll need to look in to at some point: occasionally, the vehicle will not engage the front right CV when shifted in to AWD/4wd mode. It engages and the light turns on within a few seconds of travel, however, but is unable to do so at a stop if the issue occurs. I've already checked the CV and the diff and transfer case fluids. This might require a deeper dive at some point. The rear bump stops are non-existent. I've ordered a replacement set and I'll have to chuck them in at some point. I'd like to touch up the paint work I did on the rear quarter panels - the fade is far below my standards and worse than I know I'm capable of. I'll probably take the time to do some touch ups elsewhere, but it'll be tough to fade small areas as the paint code paint is MUCH darker than what my vehicle has faded to over the past 19 years. Maybe I'll see if I can get a closer match to the real colour somewhere. Looking beyond the "I'd like to do it this year" stuff, at some point I'd like to replace all the hoses and vac lines under the hood. Ain't broke, don't fix right now, and I have no reason to go in there at the moment, so I'll leave it for now. I'd like to install a transmission cooler and in-line filter. The stupid rear bumper is drooping a bit - I've reattached all of the fittings, so I don't really know what's happening here. I'd like to take care of that after I do some paint work. Oh, and the front bumper on the right (is there a theme here) is missing a fitting, so I should probably find one for that too. Beyond that? Who knows. I have dreams of a "fully built" pathfinder, but I'm not 100% sure this one is it. I wouldn't mind spending the money on a low KM, lower mainland/Vancouver Island example to do the "dream" build. There have been several come up in the past month or so, but I'm not really ready to spend 8-10K CAD on one when I'm really not convinced they'll keep their inflated value over the next 1.5 years. Until then, I'll keep doing maintenance and either cost-effective or somewhat transferrable mods should I move to another vehicle.

Well if you guys desperately need to clear out inventory and end up doing another small batch I'll have to PM as soon as that announcement comes out - I've decided I'm going to start looking for a second pathfinder to do the full SFD build on.

Covid tax seems to have hit Pathfinder SE + LE's in my area but not QX4's, unless the owner literally lists them as Pathfinder LE's... which I've seen a few times. Vancouver, BC.