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GkLapp

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  • Posts

    6
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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Black Greasy Diesel and sluggish
  • Place of Residence
    Cebu
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cebu
  • Country
    Philippines

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  1. Here it is for the video, I tapped AC button on and off inside the car so that the noise may be distinguisable I could not hover the video to the AC compressor itself, since it is so shaky and I don't want to risk shredding my phone to pieces. Sorry for that
  2. I had this hella loud ac compressor that came w/ the car ever since the car was purchased, from around 7-8 years ago. It is still capable of cooling but only if I drive on a shady day or night. It was 1-2 years ago from now that I really can't just find to bear the loudness of this compressor, so much that it overpowers the already loud clutch fan engaging. It would get worse especially when driving on a hot day. It struggles to cool the car cabin especially on a hot day, but otherwise it's cold. I suspected that the bearings may be shot, so first I removed the belt temporarily and checked the condition of the idler pulley and it spins freely and a bit of noise, likely due to wornness. After that I check the compressor and spinned it. I done it in two different conditions, engaged and disengaged, and both of these two conditions shows no noise related to the bearing. No grinding and such. Although I heard piston sucking and discharging inside the compressor when I manually spin it. I also practiced checking the tension of the belt every now and then. Not too tight but not too loose, checking if the belts are sort of jumping and so far so good. So I am currently at lost whether this compressor is worth keeping, or should I try replace the clutch/bearing first. I can post a video on youtube to help the idea of this loud noise coming from the ac compressor. I would appreciate any pointers!
  3. The contact switches for these headlights often goes bad, maybe due to soot-like building in the contacts which happened in my case. My guess is that these switches are under high current, I got burned simply by touching these contacts when I was testing it. Sanding the contacts with 1000 grit works for me, but these problems will come back again. To ensure these problems would be minimized or hopefully go away, I recommend putting the headlight system in conjunction with relay, there should be a guide somewhere here in this forum. I was going to say to check for continuity, but from the OP's statement, the wire continuity seems fine.
  4. A video for the swap will be great. I am curious as to what will happen to the electronics related to the automatic.
  5. Thanks, I thought it seemed not normal to me as other newer automatic vehicle I observed holds their engine rpm as soon as the gas pedal is lifted. Mine is a diesel version, td27 turbo specifically. I tried also doing turning off the overdrive, but it seems it does not have any noticeable engine braking. Though it's certainly stupid for the tranny to go overdrive on uphill. Instead, when the OD is off, I feel the engine rpm kind of neutral? Pressing the gas, rpms rises up but the vehicle is not going faster. So when the OD is on again, instead of that neutral feeling, it just slips, and very sluggish acceleration. It occurs at 1-2 upshift This tranny seems to hold problems, like having no 2-3 upshift or 2-4 upshift as if this tranny has no 3rd gear or 4th gear, forget 3-4 upshift, all happening on D gear selector and also there's the 1-2 upshift neutral. In fact I select 2 on the gear selector as my normal driving mode as 1-2 upshift is fine, though it does makes me run at lower speeds. It also likes to leak atf at the bellhousing, near the starter motor. It certainly makes me hate to work underneath as everywhere I touch, I would have that dirty sludge.
  6. Hello, Is it normal for the vehicle when the selector lever on drive would not hold engine rpm? I run 40kmh at 2500 rpm at drive while my foot is on the gas, then as soon as I let off the gas pedal, the engine rpm would then drop to somewhere around 900-1000 rpm however there seems to be no engine braking in this period although the vehicle would slow down. Although the engine rpm would run again at 2500 rpm if the vehicle's speed is close/near to 40kmh or if the vehicle's speed is at 30 kmh with the engine rpm is somewhere around 2000 rpm if I would step on the gas pedal again, stepping it lower and lower until I can feel the vehicle is slightly accelerating. The 1,2 and R position holds engine rpm and I can feel the engine braking. Would be greatly appreciated to anyone who can answer. It's been hovering on my mind ever since I drove the vehicle.
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