lunchindabox

As an update, the dude I sold it to just slapped a belt on and it runs great. Apparently, in this case the engine was not interfered with.

I am surprised that you all have not hashed out this interferance/non-interference issue already...I was waiting for someone to tell me "search" or point me to a link where it was thouroughly discussed.... In anycase, I sold the truck as-is and it is a non-issue for me. Good luck!

Here is what I got... I am trying to figure out if this is an interference motor or not in this Nissan...conflicting info on the pathfinder and frontier forums...and everywhere else for that matter as seen above. I think officially it is interference...but a good portion of people who just slap a belt on end up okay. Does that even make sense? This might might be worth a shot if I can slap a belt on. Or I can pay the shop ~$500 and gamble since I generally don't get my hands dirty...and if it fails...I can always just pay the shop to do the heads I guess... And a pic of the beast being pulled by the other beast.

lower radiator support?

thanks for the info...I don't think I have the patience. Might just go for an engine even though this baby only has 130k... -HH

Hey guys, I got a busted Tbelt on my 2003 3.3L Frontier. Is this a interference engine? Can I expect bent valves? Can I expect piston damage? Is it safer to just toss in a new motor? -Thanks in advance.

I drive like a grandma, but the ole ball and chain is a little tougher on the gas pedal. I was suspecting the short driving habits and truck never fully warming up to be the culprit but didn't want to suggest it so I could see what others came up with. I guess that is it. That and the fact that I thought the r50 was rated for higher mpg's, like 19 for combined city/hwy...but it is more like 15-16 so I am not doing as bad as I thought... But my needle hits below 3/4 mark and odometer only states 50 miles. Most of my other cars, the needle does not move until after it hits 50. Kinda depressing, but I know all machines are not built equal. Well, thanks all!

I had an ebay remote start rigged into my wd21 a few years back...I had a guy on Craigslist install it in my driveway, he rigged the hood sensor onto the E-brake and if the E-brake was down, the remote was deactivated (as if the hood was up), But it is still dangerous....when my brother was showing it to a potential buyer, he hit the button and it jerked forward since it was in gear...I think the chick threw away the remote after buying the truck...lol I had MyerEmco install the one on my R50 for the little lady on her automatic...the only issue I have is that if I use the unlock on his Viper system, my alarm goes crazy. But we carry both FOB's and have learned not to use the Viper one for the locks. She can't handle cold, so she loves it.

Ok, so here goes... Background: Bought this little automatic 4x4 R50 1.5 years ago with 102k miles. It needed some work so we had it done (waterpump, Tbelt, knock sensor). Down the road we got some suspensions issues and had those done too...Now has 112k miles and runs great. Enough power, no real leaks, no smoking, no sputtering, no loosing oil/coolant..ect Current issue: Currently I have codes P0440 and P1448 and from what I can tell, they are evap/emmisions related. I don't think this is the cause of the bad gas mileage but I am no pro. I cleared them 2 days ago and no SES lights yet. The light comes and goes as it pleases and we don't care until it is time for emmisions in Aug. I had low tire pressure on one tire, which shouldn't affect the mileage that much. It has recently been pretty cold in the DC area if that makes a difference. ....But to be honest, I never really pay attention to mpg until recently, last 3 fillups only had 12-13mpg. The truck is driven very little, mainly the ole ball and chain who drives it 2 miles to work or 2 miles to school 3-4 times weekly. I only drive it when I hookup the tow dolly and pull a car home about 2-3 times a month if that. Any suggestions on where to look or is this normal mileage for my driving habits and weather conditions... Thanks!

Alright, I have been doing some towing and it is time to get a trans cooler. Normally I am lazy and just go to Ebay and buy what's available and cheap...but I want a good one that is easy to install...So I come to you guys for the advice and experience. My ride: 98 SE 4x4 automatic, stock suspension, 2 inch ball and towing about 3-4k on a dolly. Any advise on brand and price? Quality? Which ones should I avoid? If you have it, a link to the item or atleast the general website would be awesome. In return, I will get a DIY write up going...fancy pictures, photoshop arrows, notes and a full list of tools needed....the works. Thanks in advance.

Bringing this topic back.... First off, thanks for all the advice. I read everything a few times and things make sense. I still suck at reversing but I got all the safety stuff down. I finally got my T-harness delivered from Ebay and it was a snap to install. Got my hitch installed...no bumper cover due to small accident...but working on repalcement now...Next is a trans cooler...any recommendations on one? The first car I towed was my 1999 VW Passat from WV to N. Va (80 miles)....through the mountains. I went with "O/D off" as many people mentioned...burned through gas like crazy and didn't like the way it felt. The next tow was when I towed my 2003 VW Passat from Richmond to N. Va (80 Miles)....just straight higway driving with some small gradual inclines...nothing serious and drove it as normal...didn't do the "o/d off" thing and it felt much better. I like pulling with regular O/D. I just learned to gain some extra speed before hand. The next tow was my 98 VW Passat 180 miles from Va Beach to N. Va....same as above...R50 did very well. I did not turn O/D off. The final tow was my 2000 VW Passat (pictured in sig) about 8 miles in rough up and down hill nighborhoods and I turned the O/D off this time. My question is, at highway speeds with no serious inclines....which way should I go with the O/D thing? Thanks for all the advise to far. Maybe this (or part of this thread) should be a sticky?

So the chains should not be tight...loose is good, but crossed. Got it. Passat is front wheel, will be lifting front. Yeah, I was moving the dolly empty and found backing up is pretty tricky! I will try to employ this little trick, bottom of the steering wheel. Also, checked the clip on the frame rail of the R50, only three wires. That can't be it, but it would have been hella conveniennt if it was. Anyone know what the hell it is though? It is right there and nothing close by for it to go to... Then I pulled the plastic from the cargo area. Driver side has a bunch of stuff including Bose amp. and the wiring from tail lights has no clip. Feeds into a big bunch of wires. Then I pulled the passenger side and found a clip, looks like I if I get the right adapter, i can tap right in without splicing. Turns out the Xterra and Frontier clips won't work on it and pep boys didn't have the Pathy one. Neither did AdvanceAuto or the local parts store. Might try Uhaul tomorrow.

Thanks guys, this info is awesome! I got another Q though...On my R50, there is a 3 wire wire clip on the frame rail on Pass side...that is not the wiring harness for my dolly is it? Also, I bought two wiring adapters hoping they would work...not sure which one will...can't find the correct harness on the vehicle to attach to. I bought one for 2000-04 Xterra and another for 1998-04 Frontier...hoping one of these will fit as they didn't have a pathy specific one. So where is the clip on the vehicle located? Thanks

Hey guys... My bro got rear ended in my wife's r50 and we took the money since the damage was not bad and I can do the work myself. I took the money and invested in a tow dolly. Got the hitch installed today. I need to get the wiring done and saw a few kits on ebay. anyone have advice for me? When I was putting the hitch on I saw a plug on the pass side along the frame rail...is that the one the hitch wiring goes to? Also thinking about a trans cooler...product reviews anyone? Also, I just bought a VW Passat in NJ that I need to get home...the r50 should be able to handle it right? Mostly highway and not many hills or stop and go. Also, I never towed before...Any general advice?

The trailer has arrived. Looks good. Title says 1600lbs. I think the average car is 3000lbs. Probably not a good idea to tow with my R50 and I can't justify buying a new rig just for the occasional towing. Plus I have space issues already. Decided she has to go. Thanks for all the advise. Anyone interested in puchasing? I have her listed on the WashDC CL and Yotatech with all the details. Asking 1700 on CL, probably take 1400 from a member of one of the forums I frequent.

Thanks for all the input guys. The trailer is my new toy and I will be using it in the future, no real plans for it, but the car comes with it. The guy is towing it down from NY to VA like you see it and giving me both the trailer and the car. I think he is using a silverado or something w/OUT a brake controller. I will likely use the trailer on local things around town, and not likely farther then 75 miles. Although we have hills, we don't have mountains. O/D will not be used. A brake controller will be installed if I keep it. I will probably tow this car with it a few miles but this would be the heaviest car I ever tow probably. Tell me a little bit more about this weight distributing hitch, never heard of that. I was just going to have the car sit far back on the trailer to limit tounge weight.

Can I tow this my my R50? 98 105k miles. automatic 4x4 100%stock. I have no experience in towing, EVER. The trialer is equipped with electric brakes and I would get a controller installed in the R50. I do not know the weight of the trailer, that is an air foil for aerodynamics. I also do not know the wieght of the car.

Hey guys, Anyone tell me if the 90-95 pathfinder ever had the spare tire mounted underneath? If so it should fit my hardbody pickup right? My hoist just gave up. I am looking for one but can't seem to find it anywhere. Is it fruitless to search here? Or does someone have a better idea for it? Thanks.

Although I found a little black box, I am not convinced that I Have keyless entry. Reason being, that i don't see any remotes on Ebay for a 92 hardbody or pathfinder. But there are remotes for 93, 94 and 95. And a few sellers have labeled them that way. Also, in the list of standard and optional items posted above, keyless entry is not on them... Anyone confirm they have stockalarm/keyless or something on a 92 or older? Also, I searched for the programming and in there it said I could possibly find the remote for 5 bucks or something. The best I was was more like 50+shipping on ebay. Am I looking in the wrong place or something? All help is appreciated.

I have a king cab+bucket seats, so I will check the console for any buttons. Will also check the black box more closely. Thanks guys, this is good info. If anyone can add the specific info for actualy programming a fob, then maybe we can make this a sticky.

Thanks guys, Lots of good info. I am going out to check it now. Edit: I just checked, I found one black box that was the size of a pack of cigarettes. The next one was much bigger and silver. I didn't see anything about alarm or security in the dash. Anywhere else to look? Also, looking at the list above, I don't see keyless entry as standard or optional. I do have almost every option on the list except automatic trans, which I am glad about. Explanation please?

Hey guys, I recently purchased a 92 Hardbody pickup to add to my Nissan collection and I am wondering how I can find out if it is equipped with keyless entry. Facts: I purchased it without a remote and forgot to ask if it was equipped SE model has power windows has power locks has sunroof Thanks in advance. BTW_ if you have a remote, I would be interested once I find out if I am equipped or not. Thanks.

Hello, I just picked up a 92 4x4 ext cab hardbody pickup (pics in the general forum- "added to my fleet") It is a v6 that has 167k miles and runs "okay" When I bought it it had no pressure in the brakes and the "anti-lock" light was on. Fluid was low. I added fluid and only had pressure when the truck was off. Once I cranked it up, I lost presure in the pedal. I decided it was not the master cylinder and checked the rear cylinders. It turned out they were leaking. Changed them both and brakes work well. BUT, I have the "anti-lock" light on. I searched and found little on the subject. But nothing worth talking about. Anyone want to tell me if there is a procedure to diagnose or get codes or anything. Where are the wheel sensors? I saw the procedure to get codes from the ecu, but that didn't have any abs codes. Fluid was topped off when the rear cylinders were done and bled. Thanks in advance.

your right, it has 167K miles. Here are the pics: