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AR97Pathfinder

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Everything posted by AR97Pathfinder

  1. Why would he not want to cooperate if the springs really were not performing as advertised and the company was actually providing the warranty. Odd situation... I was actaully going with them also until I saw the video. But now I'm unsure and looking at the dobinsons.
  2. Sounds like it could be. The dobinson coil for the front advertises 1.2” lift and rear about 1.5”. Which LR coils did you go with for the back? I wanted to stay under 2” and reading through the many threads I see they give 2-2.5” lifts. Is is okay to go with dobinson in rear also? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Did they quote you a price? I see there are two websites. Dobinsonsprings.com and dobinsondirect.com The first is coming up to $540 total for front and back coils while the second site is $400 total. Just curious about the big difference in price if both state to be a dobinson website.
  4. Yeah I’m getting new OEM rubber seats also. I did check out the insulators as well and after seeing the price for them I decided I might just reuse the old ones. But now that you said you’ve used these instead and they are doing the job fine, I think I might just get them also. Thanks for sharing that info. Much appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Is everything riding fine? Just curious as I’m going to be doing this job soon on my truck. And will be using the KYB top hats. I saw another members strut failed from not using it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. But the OEM strut mount has one. Thats odd Did you put it back together without it?
  7. Thanks for finding that video review. Good thing I didn’t buy the Ironman yet. I think I might wait it out until the OMEs come back in stock. Have you seen any dobinson video reviews for the R50? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. So I had the truck in the shop this weekend. Dropped the transfer case and replaced all seals. Leak is gone. I replaced the trans mount as well. But now I have another problem. I had the shop replace all 4 ujoints with spicers. The mechanic doing the job finished the small driveshafts joints and took a break. Another mechanic took it upon himself to pick up the big driveshaft and finish up the job. But doesn’t look like he knew what he was doing. He removed the old ujoint and began the process of putting the new one in and dropped the cap, but didn’t check the needle bearings before trying to install it. The cap basically got stuck halfway in cause some needle bearings fell. He was going at the yoke ears with a hammer to try and force it in. But by the time I saw and stopped him, it was too late. It got bent. They managed to get the cap out, straighten the yoke and get a new ujoint installed. But I am experiencing a thumping sensation when the vehicle settles after a hard stop. Or pulling off fast. No vibrations while driving local or highway speeds. I assume this must be from the driveshaft, especially after seeing them wack it so much. Since it was obviously their error, they have decided to replace the main driveshaft at their expense. Should I be fine with having them pull a driveshaft from a pathfinder at the junkyard and have new ujoints installed properly? Or I see they have a Doorman driveshaft online new. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. One issue I am encountering is during warm restarts. If the vehicle is driven and then shut off for anywhere between 20 minutes to 1.5hr and it is restarted the engine stumbles roughly for a few seconds. It would clear itself out and run perfectly fine, even when driving after. On cold starts it fires up normally and if left for a couple hours it starts normally also. One time it stumbled bad and Rpms surged up and down then it died. I have no codes besides an evap p1441 that’s been there a while before. Comes and goes every so often. I had evap system smoke tested, changed cap, evap canister and vent valve, cut valve and bypass valve solenoid. So I don’t bother with that code anymore as it doesn’t effect engine performance. The vehicle has a new distributor, ECT sensor, maf sensor, plugs, wires, pressurized fuel injection cleaning. I did a fuel pressure test and lost about 11 psi in 25 minutes. Was told that is normal. I am leaning towards a leaky injector or bad FPR. Or IACV? Not sure Anyone can offer and idea of what they think? Some other pathy has to have experienced this before. I don’t know what else it could possibly be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Hey guys, many you know I have asked several questions about repairs over the past few months and you all have provided a great amount of help. So wanna say thanks to you all! This is an amazing community of people on here. As R50JR has recommended I have started this build thread to keep everything concise and in one place. I know I've created several different threads with different questions and may have been confusing so sorry about that. Many of those repairs havent been done as yet as the weather up here in the Northeast hasn't been cooperating. I did get the chance to do some things here and there. Installed a double din Pioneer touchscreen system, kicker tweeters, back up camera, and did a pressurized fuel injection cleaning. My truck has just over 180k and its still going strong. Very minimal light spot rust on the undercarriage and on the driver side of the vehicle by the rear wheel well at the bottom near the side step there is some rust there also. Think i'll bring it to a body shop to repair that as I don't want it to get worse. As for rust, thats about all, havent found any on the rest of the vehicle or in any other wheel wells. Will be wiring brushing off any rust underneath and undercoating this summer. In the next week or two I’ll be pulling my transfer case at the shop to replace all seals as well as new u-joints for both driveshafts and a new transmission mount. I have all parts. -For the seals I’m using original Nissan’s (front driveshaft seal, rear driveshaft seal, front transfer case seal, shift seal, rear tranmsision seal) -U-joints will be Dana Spicer -Transmission mount Beck and Arnley This coming spring I’m doing some suspension work and will be putting on a new Rack and Pinion. If by then the OME coils are still not available I’ll be going with the Ironman coils for the front and rear. I know most have the OME and I've watched PathyDude17's video and he knows someone with the Ironman coils. So I guess I'll be one to update on the ride quality and performance once I get them on. NISS035B - rear 1.5” lift coils NISS034B - front 1.5” lift coils KYB strut mounts, boot and bellow, bearing Nissan spring Seat rubbers (54034-0W000 & 55034-0W003) KYB Exel-G struts KYB Gas-A-Just shocks A camber bolt for each strut Missing Link that I'll try to make on my own Already have new sway bar bushings and links front and back. New ball joints have been installed. Any reccomendations for a good Rack and Pinion? I was thinking about a AcDelco rack. (ACDELCO 36R0788) Now two years ago I had to replace the control arms in the front and the rear 4 trailing arms. I was going on a long trip and the swaying at highway speeds was not pleasant so I just did the arms at the time. What I didn't do correctly at was load the vehicle before torquing down the bolts. I torqued them down with the suspension still hanging. Everything still looks fine bushing wise and theres no swaying. Should I replace back the arms or loosen bolts and torque down loaded? At the time I used Mevotech control arms in the front. Havent had problems but I'm not sure how good of a brand this is? What do you guys reccomened for the front control arms as replacements? Once all those repairs are completed I'll be getting some new shoes for the Pathy. With a 1.5" lift and stock rims (15's) what are the best reccomendations for All Terrain tires? A bigger size possible? Thanks to everyone!
  11. What did you do about that spacer on the replacement strut mount not being welded? I see the KYB mounts aren't welded also. The pics in their product description shows it not welded also, but comes with it. I'm going to replace mine when doing the coils so trying to get all the info in beforehand. Thanks
  12. Thanks for the info TowndawgR50 What shocks are you running with your lift? I have a new set of KYB gas shocks and I’m debating whether those should be fine with the 1.5in lift coils. They’re rated about 23 in extension and 15in compressed. I know many use the bilstein shocks. But with normal daily driving should a KYB shock be fine with with the new coils? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Yeah I’m looking at Ironman also. The OME is out of stock everywhere. That was my first option. OME says 0.75 rear lift and 0.6 front lift. But Ironman says 1.5” front and back. I’m curious about the ride quality and amount of top out I’ll experience with them as I don’t run extra weight on vehicle. Going to use them with the KYB gas struts and shocks (new). Also, will I need camber bolts when I’m finished with the install? One or two? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. So the Iron man rear springs are rated at 370mm and a 166 spring rate. The kyb shocks at the back have a 580mm extended length. The front iron man springs are 400mm and a 160 spring rate. The kyb struts are 590mm extended length. Coils are giving 1.5 inch lift front and back. These coils and struts/shocks should be compatible together and work fine?
  15. Hopefully they are as good as the reviews say. And I assume mine would be higher than the 1.5” in the end also as Im running 24 year old springs right now. Ride is a bit rough can’t wait to get rid of them. Wonder how lime green is going to end up looking. I might repaint them black instead. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Thanks for the info RainGoat. I did come across these while researching but wasn’t sure about them without asking here. Probably will use Ironman front front and rear. Looking at the Ironman coils for the front and rear they mention it’s 1.5in front and back lift. Is it that much compared to the OMEs? OME mentioned 0.75 back and 0.6 front. Trying to stick with something that will have the least chance of topping out once broken in and will give a comfortable ride. I don’t off-road or have anything on the vehicle for extra weight. And I have new kybs for the strut and shocks. I don’t have too much knowledge about any of the springs and I know a lot of people here have done theirs so I appreciate the advice and recommendations on choosing one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Any thoughts on alternatives to OME if they’re not in stock anywhere? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Any other recommendations for a set of front and rear coil springs that are just as good in quality as the OME medium duty and ride comfortably? And possibly provide the slight lifts that the OMEs do? Because the 2923 mediums for the front are out of stock everywhere. 2922 md rear seem to be in stock based off the websites. And the places are not sure if they’re simply out of stock or the company is not manufacturing those numbers anymore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. I used the OTC fuel injection kit with the cleaners. I replaced fuel filter about 1.5 years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I have performed it a few days ago and so far so good. The symptoms I was explaining have not occurred back since. No stumbling on warm restarts after that 30 to hour and half time frame. Ran two cans through the canister at the fuel rail. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. I’ll see how it goes after I install the medium duty coils. Looks like I might not experience it. You guys defiantly have stronger ones than I’m getting. Is it okay to reuse those rubber insulators under the spring cap? It was in good shape last time I opened up the strut. No cracking or breakage. And are the coil sleeves necessary? Those rubber sleeve like inserts that go into the top and bottom of the spring. Those are defiantly done with on the old ones. If they’re really needed what’s an alternative. Nissan wants about 30 bucks a piece (2 per coil front and back) and a chance they don’t even have them anymore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Has anyone here done a pressurized fuel injection cleaning. The one where you disable the fuel pump, remove the fuel input hose and connect in a canister to the port with the cleaner running off a compressor at the fuel pressure of the vehicle (34psi). I know I have some injectors that dribble some fuel when I shut off the engine and I’ve heard this cleaning helps as dirty injectors can tend to do that. I believe there has been a TSB from Nissan concerning this. Well in my case if I come back to the vehicle around 30 minutes to an hour after it’s been sitting it starts up but stumbles for a few seconds. Fuel pressure test indicated an 11 psi drop in 25 minutes. Cold starts are great and after several hours is also fine. I loaned the tool from a friend and plan on running the OTC cleaner through it. But just wanted to hear some thoughts on it first and if anyone has actually done it or experienced something similar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Thanks R50JR! Appreciate it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Okay, so you have the heavy duty springs. Do you run extra weight on the front? Maybe I wouldn’t have the problem with medium duty and the kybs which are about a year old. I don’t off-road honestly. And sure I can do that, sorry I’m only a few months into this forum. I thought the build threads were for people doing some major overhauls on their vehicles. I’ve finished everything else suspension wise before joining the forum so I wouldn’t have too much to add toward the build thread other than some minor repairs here and there. My other recent thread was about a pressurized fuel injection cleaning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Yeah that’s what I’m afraid of. I’m not running any extra lifts besides what the OME medium duty springs themselves provide. The 2922 have a 0.75in at back and 2923 0.6in at front. Just wanted to clarify that. I guess I’ll go with the light duty for the front (2921)? Out of stock everywhere though. But there is not light duty for the rear. I’m not sure about your setup, but is it just the front that tops out for you? And does it usually happen on normal everyday driving? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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