AR97Pathfinder
-
Posts
176 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by AR97Pathfinder
-
-
1 hour ago, hawairish said:
If I'm being honest, I'm brand agnostic for stuff like this. I have enough conspiracy theories in my head that prevents me from believing one part is better than another; and in many cases, they're the identical and made by the same company. My wallet tends to be my decision maker in those cases.
If you eventually plan to swap the bushings for poly, though, I'd keep it cheap. But that's because I'm cheap (I also run poly bushings in custom arms).
Makes sense, I agree. Also, I am planning on a 1 inch spacer lift, I don't offroad, primarily just for a little extra height. Is a 1 inch spacer lift a safe option and would I need camber bolts for alignment?
-
11 hours ago, hawairish said:
The newer Moogs will fit all the same, but the bracket/tab used to secure the ABS wire is different. The older trucks used a J-shaped hook that bolted to the arm. The newer style has a forked tab that a rubber boot on the line presses onto. If you take a close look at the pics on RockAuto, you'll see the difference. Nothing some cable ties can't resolve, though. The parking brake cables attach the same on both styles, noting that driver's side uses two tabs to attach the cable, but the passenger side only uses one bracket, but most RH options show both tabs.
Thank you. In your opinion, what is a better option between Moog (Rk series) and AcDelco (Professinal series) for these control arms. I will eventually put poly bushings in the old arms, but for now I wil put new links on the truck because I currently do not have the time to replace the bushings.
-
-
I replaced the trailing arms on my 1997 pathfider 4wd about 2 years and 23k miles ago. For the upper arms I purchased Moog, however, there were no lower moog arms. I went with Dorman instead for the lowers and 2 years later they are already shot. I notcied there are Moogs available for the 2001 Pathfinders 4wd (MOOG RK660905, and RK660905). Would I be able to purchase these moogs and use it on my 97 Pathfinder since the suspension is the same on these vehicles for those given years?
-
Does the power assist seem weak? That is, is it hard to steer? Does the pump make any whining or rattling sounds while the engine is running? How dark is the fluid? Hopefully it's good, since you've recently replace the rack and pinion. The sound you hear when turning from a left full lock is likely not the PS pump, since it's unaware of the position of the rack. The sound could be a worn bushing or a bad strut bearing, or it could be an issue with the rack. As previously mentioned, try tightening the belt or replacing it to get rid of the squeak.
If you do end up replacing the pump, it's pretty easy, although perhaps a bit messy, since you'll need to drain the fluid. Besides the belt tensioner bolt, there are just a couple other bolts holding the pump in place. Those plus removing the PS fluid hoses is about all it takes.
The power steering is not that stiff when driving, I would say it can be a bit when parking, but you can still operate it using one hand. The fluid is in good condition since the steering rack replacement and has not darkened over the year.
I’ll have to check the other noise out throughly. So far I only hear it when turning to the left and its mainly when the vehicle is first driven and cold. Once the vehicle is driven and everything has warmed up you do not hear it back at all.
Thanks for the info on the pump, I’m going to replace it soon. The only thing I was wondering is if the pump has enough space to be pulled out without removing anything else.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Are you sure it’s not just a worn belt squeaking? Changing the belts is a pretty quick job
Not a bad idea to check that, I changed that about 3 years ago when I did all the other belts.
Steering related I’ve also just started hearing a creak or groan like noise when release the steering from a left locked position. So far it only seems to occur when first driving the vehicle after sitting in the cold. I literally have all new suspension front and back, and that’s practically every single component I’m talking about so I’m not sure where that’s coming from. New rack and pinion as well.
I will have to do further checking once it warms up enough. It sounds like the noise your handbrake would make when you pull it or like someone burping, LOL. I don’t know if the pump can make such a noise.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
I’m planning on changing the power steering pump soon on the R50 as it has been making noise for sometime, especially the consistent squeaking pulley.
Has anyone changed these out before? Anything in particular has to be removed before the pump can be removed? Just want to make sure I can get the job done in the same day and not run into anything too difficult as the weather is not great. But my grad program is starting back in January, and I use the vehicle to commute long distances so I don’t want to leave it. I should mention the original one on there is not leaking, just noise.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
On 12/13/2022 at 2:48 AM, sentra368 said:
Hello. From my research, Sankei 555 may be the better brand. Made in Japan, but a bit more expensive compared to others. The other day i was looking on RockAuto, and the ACDELCO ball joint was a 555. Have a look.
Ive had the Sankei brand ball joints on my R50 for several years now (probably going onto 8 years) and have not had any issues.
-
Ive had a similar issue with my 1997 R50. Its happened about three times now over the past few years where the gauge needle would randomly descend down to empty for a few seconds or minutes while driving and then correct itself. My gauge functions a bit differently, remains at fuel level once engine is shut off and does not drop to the bottom.
But I know it will completely go out one day since its already started acting up. I should also mention, my low fuel light does not get triggered in the dash (bulb is working) so I assume its related?
-
Yes one is the entire rear resonator and the other is for the center muffler up to the cat. That makes up the entire exhaust system after the cats which is what you mentioned you were looking for.
The diagram does show individual parts but the link themselves carry the part for what you are looking for. Cycle through the pictures on the link.
-
There should be options for the rear resonator and then the front pipes and center muffler as a single piece.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=268863&cc=1212051&pt=10038&jsn=704
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2461638&cc=1212051&pt=5872&jsn=664
There are a few more options of varying prices than what I posted above .
When I swapped my exhaust I purchased from Rockauto, but at that time they also had the Bosal brand available. Good quality, its been about 4 years so far and no issues or a spec of rust. And I live in NY.
As for the manifold, I'm not too sure.
-
Hello everyone, I am planning on installing some rock lights to the frame of the vehicle and I wanted to know if its safe to drill into the frame to run some very small self tap screws through to secure the light. I saw online when mounting rock road sliders to the vehicle much larger holes are drilled than just a screw so I wouldn't imagine there being an issue with this.
But I would like some more input as I don't want to compromise anything structurally for some lights.
I added a video of where I plan to mount them. It would be on the wall of that frame and close to the bottom of it so when the lights come on they catch the running boards as well. I'm tapping the dome light so it comes on when I open the door. Its more of a courtesy lighting setup I am going for than rock lights for off-road use.
Thanks
-
I got a ACDelco
Was it the 36R0788 like you have listed above? Where did you get it?
Yeah that’s the one I installed. Everything has been great so far. And I ordered from summit racing and it took about a month to get to me as they ordered from the manufacture. Didn’t have in stock.
Rockauto has it as well. It says 2 day delay but I’m not sure if it would be longer.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk-
1
-
-
How complex was it? Mine is starting to leak a bit, shop wants $1850 so that's not happening. I'm either going to do it myself with help of a mechanic friend or if it is considered complex or risky I'll look around for another shop.
It wasn’t bad honestly. I tied down the steering wheel first with it centered. I removed the splash guard underneath and then the sway bar brackets, allowing it to drop down. Then I loosened the banjo bolts on the two lines and all the fluid will leak out now so have a pan. There is a single bolt on steering shaft that has to be removed. Then I unbolted the rack and pulled it down and out.
Make sure you check back if the new rack is centered. I got a ACDelco and they had said in the instructions it’s centered at factory but it wasn’t. You can use a vise grip pliers and a cloth on the shaft and turn the shaft from lock to lock to count the total turns. And then turn back until it’s half that amount and you’re centered.
Installing is simply the reverse and then fill it up with fluid once everything is bolted up. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times with engine off and wheels still up in air. Then turn the engine on and turn lock to lock again several times. All the air should be out the system now.
Make sure to use new copper washers on the banjo connections. And when installing tie rod ends count the threads on the old rack and set the new one to the same so you’re alignment is close enough until you align at the shop.
Took me about 3 hours. I definitely wouldn’t pay that much to do it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk-
1
-
-
https://forums.nicoclub.com/wheel-bearings-97-pathfinder-t628969.html
Every question you post here you also have on nicoclub. There is nothing wrong with that, but when members on the other forum have given you solid advice there’s really no need to ask on a neighbor site. You also need to post these sort of questions in the appropriate section. We have “General” and “Garage” sections for this stuff. You even have your own build-thread. If you take the time do research on your own, you will find plenty of info. Maybe try searching terms like ‘r50 pathfinder timken’ or ‘timken bearing quality’. These bearings are not r50 specific so there is endless information on google.
Sent from my Pathfinder
Yes I do post it on other forums as well as I like to see the experiences others have as well with any part or job. Some individuals have different views or run into different issues. As with the bearings I have gotten different answers. One moderator member would say Timken is used out of the factory by Nissan, another runs into issues when trying to install them. So I’m just trying to make the best decision possible and know everything before hand, to get the job done once. I have done the research, trust me and they are quality bearings. But I’d like to know when it comes to installing them on a Pathfinder.
Thanks for the feedback.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Are timken wheel bearings good?
Timken SET37 (inner bearing and race)
Timken LM300849 (outer bearing)
Timken LM300811 (outer race)
Ive heard they may be fitment issues with them? Has anyone used them?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
That's a better outcome than I would've expected! Who did you buy through?
A neighbor brought me a set of mounted snow tires to put on his van last winter. No cracking, great tread, rubber still felt soft. The date codes said they were made in 2000.
I bought it through Walmart. Had a set of Michelins from there that lasted about 7 years. but they don’t make them anymore for my rim size. (265 70 R15). So I got Bridgestone.
And jeez that’s a long time ago.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
I did make a complaint an hour ago and got a $250 discount. So I think it works out fine in the end.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk-
1
-
-
I bought some new tires for the Pathy and they’re manufactured on the 34th week of 2019. Is that too far back for new tires?
They were bought online and shipped to me today.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
This weekend I installed a new rack and pinion.
I also installed new coil springs on the front and rear. Along with new kyb shocks on the rear and strut on the front. I also got new kyb strut mounts, bellow, bump stop, and bearing. My strut didn’t need the spacer supplied.
Everything went good with the installation. Except on the left wheel it looks like the bearing might be binding a little. You can feel and hear a slight thudding when trying to turn the wheel. And when I have someone do it and look at the strut I can see the wheel and strut assembly turning a bit before the top hat starts to turn. The bearing was a bit tight before I installed it and I did question it in my mind but thought because it was new.
Will this break in over time or should I take it out?
I did a string alignment after for now as I will be doing a machine alignment when my new tires are installed in the coming weeks. It came out pretty great to be honest. Drives straight.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
I think it’s just a mis-box. I see it a couple times a year on random parts, most recently a few u-joints. Bought 5, 3 were correct, two incorrect...those two had a label on them that matched what I ordered, but the info they covered was correct for what was in the box. I also don’t rule out the possibility someone’s done a little switcharoo and returned the wrong part.
Got the new set of coils today. You were right, looks like someone did a little funny business with the last set that came.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk-
2
-
-
Curious, what is your mileage on the truck?
Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
Just over 181k but I live in NYC (Queens) and as you know city driving sucks the life out your vehicles. But it’s in amazing shape despite.
I do get some stretches of highway driving in every week though. And used to do some Florida and Canada trips before with it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Yeah I tried it a few months ago and didn’t work. So I pulled upper and lower intakes and changed knock sensor, injectors, fuel rail to intake seals, IACV, and intake seals.
So far so good. Hopefully don’t see the warm restart stumble after 20 min come back. One thing I forgot to do which I will do this weekend is clean all the ground connections in the engine bay.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
The spring is also supposed to be wider at the bottom than the top. That one looks to have a uniform diameter, not including the pig tail.
If it helps, I think I have set of OE springs around.
Yeah I remember from a while back when I had previously opened them up. That’s why I was stumped as soon as I saw these new ones. I knew something was off.
I ordered a new set and sending these back and also a set of Moog for the heck of it to cross check. Whatever set I don’t use is going back.
If they’re all screwed up I’ll just wait for the OMEs. But my springs are in need of changing currently so that’s why I went with one of these brands for now.
Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rear Lower trailing arms 1997 Pathfinder
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
If i decide to use camber bolts, is one bolt per strut enough?