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Everything posted by AR97Pathfinder

  1. Going to change out the fluid on the transfer case this week with Castrol Transmax high mileage ATF. Has seal conditioners in it. So I check everywhere good. An no it’s not dripping. Who knows how long it’s been like that anyways.
  2. Got the pic up on that thread, thanks for the help with that. I'm not sure if your pathy year has a higher torque spec but I tightened mine down to about 40 lbs. Did that with both struts. The service manual for my year (1997) recommended 39 ft lbs.
  3. After spending a while under the pathy looking for the front end clunking noise I also discovered that some tranny fluid is weeping from the transfer case. It’s around two bolts at the bottom of it towards the middle. https://imgur.com/gallery/MxmWNos
  4. Yeah I tried tightening. Wasn’t able to get it to go anymore. I’ll see if I can get my breaker bar or torque gun to get it a bit tighter. But when I used my 1/2in drive ratchet I wasn’t able to get it tighter. Funny, my dad also thinks it could be strut Mount related. But I asked him the same question wouldn’t it make noise more often or when turning. Mine does it almost always when going into driveways (like shopping centers with a sloped up entrance) and not when turning the wheel. But when the lock is already made and the passenger wheel is already up on the driveways but then when the driver side makes it up you get the clunk. Then again randomly when driving over bumps down the road but at a much lower occurrence. Who knows at this point lol. But aside from that issue I’ve discovered one more. Some tranny fluid sweating from the middle of transfer case out of the two lower bolts. Guess I’ll start a new thread on that. But how do you post pics on here. I’d like to get a pic of it up. thanks man
  5. So one thing I forgot to check which I went back to today was the front differential mount bushing. They were shot. I took a screwdriver to the busing, prying against the frame and I was easily able to move it back and forth. Had my dad check back the suspension and cv and he doesn’t think the noise is coming from any of those items. Thinking it’s the diff bushings. Now would this be able to clunk?
  6. So they were fairly easy to replace. Didn’t encounter any issues. Took about 45 minutes. The old ones were very bad. The clunking seems a lot better. However ever so often I still get a faint clunk when driving. more often going into driveways or parking lot entrances
  7. Should I being soaking the bolts prior? Or do they come off relatively easy? Did you encounter any seized bolts?
  8. Great! Guess I got a little project coming up this week. Will post back if it resolved the clunking or not. thanks
  9. Okay, I’ll try out those sway bushings first. Would I be able to change without removing end links? If not, I’ll go back through and retorque everything. But everything looked fine today when I tried tightening things. I did not check the strut center nut. Will do also. I did not retorque after installation. I torqued it when I put the strut together off vehicle. And wouldn’t the bearing make noise when turning? No noise per se when turning. I could get the clunk going straight over bumps without turning wheel.
  10. Glad you found the issue for the clunking noise. I tried that also for the same noise you were getting and I was able to tighten some more but it didn’t help the issue. Not sure where the noise is coming from. I have new control arms, ball joints, sway links, tie rods, tie rod ends, new strut. Only items not changed during my suspension replacements were the spring, strut mount, sway bar bushings. I get the clunking over bumps sometimes. I could go over rough road and big bumps at times and not get anything. But then some subtle bumps or turning in driveways would make the noise. Something just doesn’t feel solid on that one side. Any ideas?
  11. I changed out spark plugs today and used back original Nissan plugs. All gapped correctly. however, they did smell slightly like gas. Hard to tell for sure on 1-4 as they were dry. But plug 5 and 6 smelled the most than any other. And were a bit wet at the ends. I started it up for 2 minutes and shut off, leaving it for 30 minutes before changing plugs to see if I would find this. Correct me if I’m wrong but it seems injectors are leaking. Are injectors 5 and 6 located under the plenum or outside?
  12. I took 1,2,3 out they were just about as dirty if not a little more
  13. I pulled some plugs and they're very dark brown and appeared fouled along with the gap by eyeball appears to be larger than it should. Any thoughts on that in relation to my issue? I'd like to post a pic of it but im not sure, it says my file size is too large.
  14. I totally agree, given there is no problem with the frame or anything major under the hood. Especially if you didnt have problems with the vehicle prior. I mean these trucks are great, I have a 97 and they just keep going and I'd hate to get rid of it. Most of those body parts can be purchased aftermarket and relatively cheap such as the bumper cover and the metal bumper above that. Lights are easy to find at the junkyards as well as the fender and hood. I have seen that hood around a 100 aftermarket and fender cheaper. From that pic though it looks like the radiator is gone also. I'm pretty certain, not sure what your budget is, but if you can do majority of the repairs it could be about a 1000 or even less. At the end of the day at least you weren't hurt. If you dont mind me asking, how'd it happen? did you get rid of it yet?
  15. Sorry, but where are the bushings located on the rear diff? Im not sure Ive looked at that yet and how would you change those out?
  16. I guess I spoke too soon. The issue came back today again. Went for a 15 min drive to the store and came back to the vehicle after 25 minutes. Started it and it stumbled for a few seconds. Did not get the fast idle on restarts that you would usually get. But interestingly right after, heavy gas vapors were coming out from the evap canister vent tube. I had this issue a month ago and changed the vacuum cut valve and the bypass valve by the canister and it didnt happen since. Only until today after the stumbling on startup occurred. Is this issue related? Is it the canister and the valve on it that need replacement? Could it be the purge valve under the hood? I have no code for that though. It was also warm here today in NYC about 75 degrees but before was cool for the past two weeks. Not sure if the weather is also making the issue more prevalent. thanks. Really need the help here
  17. They shouldn’t be difficult. Just have a breaker bar in case of stubborn bolts. Mine weren’t hard to come off however. Had a breaker bar, a ratchet, I believe it’s a 21 or 22 bolt. But don’t quote me exactly on that. And a long screwdriver to pry very easily against the rack to fit in new bushings in. It was about a 30 min job honestly. Basically there’s a bracket that sits over each bushing with two bolts each. The driver side bushing has a different shape and holds the most pressure. The passenger side is round. The bushings have a cut in them and you just fit it over and put clamp back ontop then bolt down.
  18. I have a similar issue also. I had replaced my front control arms, ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, sway links, and new kyb struts but used back the old springs as they are relatively in great condition. No sagging or bouncing so didnt change them. But very occasionally on the driver side you get a clunk and in similar motion to what you describe. Also when going around a turn and there's a rocking motion you hear a metallic noise whenever the from shifts. I haven't changed the sway bar bushings in several years so I dont know if its that. One way to tell if you have bad steering rack mount bushings is if you make a turn in one direction and when the steering comes back straight the vehicle doesn't drive straight, but if you turn in the opposite direction and straighten the wheel back the vehicle runs straight. For example when my rack bushings went a few months back and they practically fell apart into the skid guard, when I would make a left turn and then straighten the wheel to continue driving, in order for the vehicle to drive straight the wheel would be cocked to the right by a noticeable amount. But then if I make a right turn and then straighten up the vehicle would drive normal or be cocked in the other direction. But the most definite way to check is just have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the rack from underneath. You will definitely see it moving from side to side if they're bad. And the damaged bushings themselves would be very easy for you to catch just by observation. Odds are if you never changed them its most likely time to.
  19. So I used the CRC Intake cleaner instead. Ran about 3/4 of the can through the brake booster and left it for an hour (enough time to change out my front wiper linkages). Did some highway driving (50miles) and then changed the oil. Looks like it cleaned something because the oil was dark and only 1700 miles in. Not too much smoke really, did get a code initially for random misfire but I cleared it out before restarting. No issues driving afterward. I’ll have to say it fires right up now on startups, warm or cold, with no issues so far. It’s only been about 4 days but have been driving everyday. And idling at stop lights are very smooth. Not that it was terrible before but it is definitely smoother. Only time will tell if this solved the problem at startup and how long it works for. I’ll probably give it another dose before next oil change. Going onto my next project now. Changing out the accelerator cable. Shouldn’t be bad at all.
  20. Doesn’t sound too bad. Did you get any misfires or roughness long after restarting the engine? I’m only going to do the intake method then change oil after giving it a drive. I heard about another one called CRC intake cleaner, many use it for GDI engines but it is also for PFI engines. Same method like sea foam, but you leave it to heat soak for an hour then drive.
  21. Is using the sea foam spray through the intake as well as some through the line that feeds the IACV a safe and good method to clean them out? Is it okay for a vehicle with this age and 180,000 miles? I’ve seen people do it on the pathys and qx4s. If so do you feed through the brake booster line as well or through the throttle body boot. I know you get a lot of smoke afterwards. And should you perform an oil change right after?
  22. I forgot to ask, is using the sea foam spray through the intake a good idea as well as some through the line that feed the IACV? Is it okay for a vehicle with this age and 180,000 miles? I’ve seen people do it on the pathys and qx4s. If so do you feed through the brake booster line as well or through the throttle body boot. And should you perform an oil change right after?
  23. Thanks! I’ll try it out and see if there’s any improvement.
  24. Isn’t a high idle really the worst problem those thermo wax elements can cause? I do get the fast idle when cold that kicks down. Doesn’t end up going all the way down due to the wax element not expanding all the way. But it goes down to around 800 or 850 rpms. Gonna try spraying some carb cleaner into the IACV before replacing that for my issue.
  25. Didn’t think of that, I definitely try that out next time it happens. Yes it does have a wax element for the cold idle. And as a matter of fact when checking it the roller doesn’t go back to the first mark when vehicle warms up. Maybe something to check out. It’s between the first and second mark. I will also pull the line on IACV and spray some card cleaner. Did you spray it in and connect back line then start engine right away? Or did you wait a bit before restarting? Thanks

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