AR97Pathfinder

If i decide to use camber bolts, is one bolt per strut enough?

Makes sense, I agree. Also, I am planning on a 1 inch spacer lift, I don't offroad, primarily just for a little extra height. Is a 1 inch spacer lift a safe option and would I need camber bolts for alignment?

Thank you. In your opinion, what is a better option between Moog (Rk series) and AcDelco (Professinal series) for these control arms. I will eventually put poly bushings in the old arms, but for now I wil put new links on the truck because I currently do not have the time to replace the bushings.

Yeah I did

I replaced the trailing arms on my 1997 pathfider 4wd about 2 years and 23k miles ago. For the upper arms I purchased Moog, however, there were no lower moog arms. I went with Dorman instead for the lowers and 2 years later they are already shot. I notcied there are Moogs available for the 2001 Pathfinders 4wd (MOOG RK660905, and RK660905). Would I be able to purchase these moogs and use it on my 97 Pathfinder since the suspension is the same on these vehicles for those given years?

The power steering is not that stiff when driving, I would say it can be a bit when parking, but you can still operate it using one hand. The fluid is in good condition since the steering rack replacement and has not darkened over the year. I’ll have to check the other noise out throughly. So far I only hear it when turning to the left and its mainly when the vehicle is first driven and cold. Once the vehicle is driven and everything has warmed up you do not hear it back at all. Thanks for the info on the pump, I’m going to replace it soon. The only thing I was wondering is if the pump has enough space to be pulled out without removing anything else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not a bad idea to check that, I changed that about 3 years ago when I did all the other belts. Steering related I’ve also just started hearing a creak or groan like noise when release the steering from a left locked position. So far it only seems to occur when first driving the vehicle after sitting in the cold. I literally have all new suspension front and back, and that’s practically every single component I’m talking about so I’m not sure where that’s coming from. New rack and pinion as well. I will have to do further checking once it warms up enough. It sounds like the noise your handbrake would make when you pull it or like someone burping, LOL. I don’t know if the pump can make such a noise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m planning on changing the power steering pump soon on the R50 as it has been making noise for sometime, especially the consistent squeaking pulley. Has anyone changed these out before? Anything in particular has to be removed before the pump can be removed? Just want to make sure I can get the job done in the same day and not run into anything too difficult as the weather is not great. But my grad program is starting back in January, and I use the vehicle to commute long distances so I don’t want to leave it. I should mention the original one on there is not leaking, just noise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ive had the Sankei brand ball joints on my R50 for several years now (probably going onto 8 years) and have not had any issues.

Ive had a similar issue with my 1997 R50. Its happened about three times now over the past few years where the gauge needle would randomly descend down to empty for a few seconds or minutes while driving and then correct itself. My gauge functions a bit differently, remains at fuel level once engine is shut off and does not drop to the bottom. But I know it will completely go out one day since its already started acting up. I should also mention, my low fuel light does not get triggered in the dash (bulb is working) so I assume its related?

Yes one is the entire rear resonator and the other is for the center muffler up to the cat. That makes up the entire exhaust system after the cats which is what you mentioned you were looking for. The diagram does show individual parts but the link themselves carry the part for what you are looking for. Cycle through the pictures on the link.

There should be options for the rear resonator and then the front pipes and center muffler as a single piece. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=268863&cc=1212051&pt=10038&jsn=704 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2461638&cc=1212051&pt=5872&jsn=664 There are a few more options of varying prices than what I posted above . When I swapped my exhaust I purchased from Rockauto, but at that time they also had the Bosal brand available. Good quality, its been about 4 years so far and no issues or a spec of rust. And I live in NY. As for the manifold, I'm not too sure.

Hello everyone, I am planning on installing some rock lights to the frame of the vehicle and I wanted to know if its safe to drill into the frame to run some very small self tap screws through to secure the light. I saw online when mounting rock road sliders to the vehicle much larger holes are drilled than just a screw so I wouldn't imagine there being an issue with this. But I would like some more input as I don't want to compromise anything structurally for some lights. I added a video of where I plan to mount them. It would be on the wall of that frame and close to the bottom of it so when the lights come on they catch the running boards as well. I'm tapping the dome light so it comes on when I open the door. Its more of a courtesy lighting setup I am going for than rock lights for off-road use. https://imgur.com/a/VR7MllP Thanks

Was it the 36R0788 like you have listed above? Where did you get it? Yeah that’s the one I installed. Everything has been great so far. And I ordered from summit racing and it took about a month to get to me as they ordered from the manufacture. Didn’t have in stock. Rockauto has it as well. It says 2 day delay but I’m not sure if it would be longer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It wasn’t bad honestly. I tied down the steering wheel first with it centered. I removed the splash guard underneath and then the sway bar brackets, allowing it to drop down. Then I loosened the banjo bolts on the two lines and all the fluid will leak out now so have a pan. There is a single bolt on steering shaft that has to be removed. Then I unbolted the rack and pulled it down and out. Make sure you check back if the new rack is centered. I got a ACDelco and they had said in the instructions it’s centered at factory but it wasn’t. You can use a vise grip pliers and a cloth on the shaft and turn the shaft from lock to lock to count the total turns. And then turn back until it’s half that amount and you’re centered. Installing is simply the reverse and then fill it up with fluid once everything is bolted up. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times with engine off and wheels still up in air. Then turn the engine on and turn lock to lock again several times. All the air should be out the system now. Make sure to use new copper washers on the banjo connections. And when installing tie rod ends count the threads on the old rack and set the new one to the same so you’re alignment is close enough until you align at the shop. Took me about 3 hours. I definitely wouldn’t pay that much to do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk