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AR97Pathfinder

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About AR97Pathfinder

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Rainforest Green Pearl with 177,000 miles.
  • Place of Residence
    Queens, New York
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1997

Profile Information

  • Location
    New York
  • Country
    United States

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  1. I’ve read about the new springs with a slight lift causing “topping out”? Is this true? I know springs have to settle in a bit after installing them. But I’m not running any extra weight on the vehicle majority of the time so will I experience this? Does that cause damage? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Has anyone here done a pressurized fuel injection cleaning. The one where you disable the fuel pump, remove the fuel input hose and connect in a canister to the port with the cleaner running off a compressor at the fuel pressure of the vehicle (34psi). I know I have some injectors that dribble some fuel when I shut off the engine and I’ve heard this cleaning helps as dirty injectors can tend to do that. I believe there has been a TSB from Nissan concerning this. Well in my case if I come back to the vehicle around 30 minutes to an hour after it’s been sitting it starts up but stumbles for a few seconds. Fuel pressure test indicated an 11 psi drop in 25 minutes. Cold starts are great and after several hours. I loaned the tool from a friend and plan on running the OTC cleaner through it. But just wanted to hear some thoughts on it first and if anyone has actually done it or experienced something similar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Yeah it wouldn’t help the engine mount job much by pulling the transmission. I forgot we talked about those mounts in another thread. But I have a leak between the transfer case and transmission. So I’m having a shop I know pull the case and replace all the seals. The seal at the back of transmission, the shaft seal at the front of t-case, the seal on the t-case for both driveshafts, and the shift seal. While driveshafts are off I’m replacing all 4 u-joints with greaseable spicers. And also replacing the transmission mount at the back. About those u-joints. The original ones I have are with inside snap rings. Can u-joints with outer snap rings be compatible with my driveshaft? I believe I got a good price. 400 bucks for the labor. I’m supplying the seals as I want to use original Nissan seals. Ive decided not the pull the transmission. Just having the case removed for this job. I’m most certain it’s not the rear main seal anyways. I get a few drops only after shutting off engine and I see oil higher up around the pan. Going to investigate more and see where exactly it’s coming from. Correct me if I’m wrong but RMS tend to leak while engine is running. Could be driver side valve cover like previously mentioned. It’s by no means a drastic leak. Maybe I end up topping up the oil a bit between changes but not going to wildly pull things apart. Like you said labor costs will quickly inflate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Yeah I hear you. The leak isn’t not bad really and to change all the transfer case seals, u joints, and rear transmission mount doesn’t require transmission removal. That being said I’ll leave the leak alone for now to avoid pulling the transmission, front diff, etc. off. Will try to do some more investigating on my own before forking out money based off guessing what it could be. What brand U-joints do you or anyone else recommend? I have the auto tranny 4x4. Original Nissans are coming up over 400 for all four. Any great reliable aftermarket ones? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I’m going to pull the transfer case to replace the three seals on it. The front seal and the other two where the driveshafts connect. I am also going to replace while I’m at it the rear transmission seal, transmission rear mount and all 4 u-joints. Now are there two transmission mounts at the front of the transmission? Or just one in the rear for transmission and two engine mounts up front? Should I have them pull transmission one time and replace the RMS? Would they be able to access the engine mounts better once transmission is pulled or do they still have to remove the front diff? I’d like to know because I’m curious as whether it is worth it to pull the transmission? My main goal towards having them pull the transmission additionally to other repairs would be for the RMS and if engine mounts can be changed also. The oil leak is odd. When I park the vehicle and shut it off, I get a couple drops from where the transmission and engine meet. There is also some oil on the sides of the lowest part. Pic below of side. But a RMS leaks when engine on mainly no? This is what also makes me uncertain. What if it’s not the RMS leaking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Well I changed the fluid after that last post. It’s still leaking ever so slightly. It’s actually coming from between the transmission and transfer case from what it looks like and then runs back a bit. I had cleaned it and checked back. And how I know it’s the transfer case side of it and not transmission is because prior to changing the case fluid the old brown fluid used to leak. Now the color leaking is red like the fresh fluid. I had originally thought it was coming from where the case itself separates but doesn’t look to be so. Doesn’t seem to drip much. From October to now there’s about 5 drop spots on the ground. I don’t know if it leaks more while it’s driven. I got a quote of around 300 bucks to drop the case and change the seals. Front, rear, and the one by the yoke for the front driveshaft. And will probably do the transmission rear also while at it. Don’t want to try this at home before I run into problems and then can’t even move the truck. Anyone else ever had a case leak from that area before? Was hoping to finish up my suspension work but I guess that’s on hold now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Sounds like I’ll be going with those! R50JR helped me out with the part number for the rear medium duty coils. But I wasn’t able to find the matching mediums for the front. The OME ones I’m finding for the front say heavy duty. I have new KYB struts in the front. Just never changed springs. Bad move. And the rear kybs shocks are a few years old and no problems. Should I change the rear shocks with something upgraded while I’m at it? Actually, I think I found them. OME 2923 medium load for the fronts to go along with the 2922 for the rear. However, some websites that are selling the 2923 claim they are heavy duty. Not sure, but accord to ARB's website 2923 is the medium duty load for 96-2004 Pathfinders. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Thanks for explaining the process in detail. Does sound a bit tedious when it comes to the engine, diff and subframe. But I guess an extra set of hands and patience should get the job done. I’ll probably have to get another jack and some more stands. I don’t have that many. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. How about the front? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I’m looking to replace the front and rear coil springs. I’m still running the original ones front and back. It’s one of the suspension components I should’ve changed when I put in a new suspension but didn’t. Vehicle sits at normal ride height but when loaded starts sagging. Looking for some quality springs. And for some reason in my neighborhood they decided to put up a speed bump with no signs going downhill and my rear bottomed out. It was nighttime by the way, didn’t expect it. I wasn’t even going fast maybe around 20mph. Definitely need new springs. Any recommendations on which type and brand? Tires are stock size and suspension parts are all OEM replacement. I don’t off-road, although I’d love to one day. Sorry, my Pathfinder might sound boring to many of you lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Possible to do this at home? I do majority of the work on the vehicle in my driveway and garage, but I'm not too sure about this as I've never dropped the diff before or lowered the sub frame. Based on your experience what do you think?
  12. Yep, you guys hit the nail on the head with that noise. It is all over the internet when I look it up, concerning Nissans and their self test on the ABS brakes. And it does state that if brakes are applied during this self test the noise will be increased and felt through pedal. Funny ive never noticed this in past years, but maybe I wasn't paying attention to it. Next time anyone drives their Pathfinder see if you notice it, id be interested to know if its as pronounced. Seeing mine is a 97 and you guys have 2003s, maybe it might be different. If you can, try and listen for the noise when first driving off after startup. Looks to be normal. Thanks!
  13. I guess I can bleed back again to see if it’ll ease it up. But it was bled about a year ago maybe less and I followed the order you described. However, I started off with the Load sensing valve then proceeded with the rest. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I’ll check that out. I was planning on changing those motor mounts last summer. But I’m not sure if I’ll be able to do it myself. I know the passenger side isn’t too bad but the driver side is because of the 4x4? Have you or anyone changed it? Thanks Hawairish Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I’m sorry but I don’t know why that posted so many times. Probably a glitch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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