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v6tx

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Posts posted by v6tx

  1. I am planning on some roadtrips in Dec & Jan, primarily to CO.

    CO supposedly uses magnesium chloride to spray down roads rather than the typical salt mixtures further up North.

     

    Still looking into this, but is it recommended to do any rustproofing before driving through this stuff?

    I won't be in a position to be spraying it off immediately and don't want my components looking like they went through a Chicago winter.

  2. That is fantastic and inspiring for a build.  I had considered a fabricator in SoCal that does custom work as well the next time I make the drive up there.

    The pricing is definitely more than I was expecting, but understandable as I do want something thats a one and done investment.

     

    Recently on a junkyard trip, I saw the pre-2001 QX4s had lower and flatter crossbars (as opposed to the more pronounced curve on the 2001-03 QX4s) and was tempted to snag some just to reduce the height but that seems like a waste of time and effort at this point.  Do keep us posted on this build you have going.  Looks great so far!

  3. Replacing my used CURT rack that had some bends and damaged mounting hardware.  

    I'm amazed at how much drag and drain on the MPG the rack adds as well, even when empty.

     

    The 64" style with the 4-6" height is great for me because it provides multiple mounting points for a Rotopax can as well as recovery gear.  I simply drilled in a Kolpin mount to the side plates.

    (I had considered using Kolpin mounts to hold my boards, in lieu of lashing straps at one point.) A jerrycan is a must for me given my fuel economy and drives through remote areas of NM and TX.

     

    I really want a slimmer rack but that would negate my Rotopax setup (unless there is a rear ladder manufacturer I am not aware of)

     

    r50r51.png

    kolpin.png

     

    Any suggestions?

     

  4. Having worked in the auto industry ~3yrs, one thing that is very common (unlike other manufacturing industries) is how supplier dependent the auto OEMs are.
    Auto OEMs make a steel body, with an engine for the most part. Nearly everything else is from another company, including OEM owned subsidiaries. It's not uncommon for one model line to have the same part, manufactured by multiple suppliers (e.g. an alternator with exact same specs, could be awarded to Denso and Bosch, with one filling in for the other during the same year) - that's just a hypothetical.

    There is no perfect auto OEM (no matter what Elon thinks) so kudos to Toyota for acknowledging it.
    As someone said, Nissan (the same Nissan who had to perform the R50 rust recall) maybe just isn't as proactive in acknowledging things...











    ...unless you embezzle millions of dollars and abscond to Lebanon.

    • Like 2
  5. Good thread.  I am shopping for wheels and tires now.  Here's my thought process on it.

     

    LIFT & SUSPENSION:  Would like to do this later in one go (KYB, Rancho / SFCreations vs AC etc.)

    WHEELS & TIRES:  Want to do this first to take advantage of some July 4th deals.

     

    OEM:  17" 3-spoke Infiniti Wheel with 245/65/17 sizing.  Backspacing Unknown.

    GOAL: Light to medium offroad/low mud capability for now with wider contact patch and more sidewall for daily driving.

    TIRES: Set on the COOPER Discoverer AT3 4S after seeing a great Youtube Review on them

    WHEELS: Will be 15"x8" with 3.75" backspacing

     

    In the interest of trying to keep the same dimensions, the most equal size alternative will be a 265/70/15 tire. 

    I believe a 265/75/15 would be just enough to rub or hit the perch with normal PSI running and I don't want to run deflated tires (unless in mud) at higher speeds.

     

    Based on Tire Size Comparison Calculator at  https://tiresize.com/comparison/ this will be the most equal match:

     

    795906086_TireSizeComparison2020-07-0117-17-24.png.6fe7adad47807b445870f6416abe613a.png

     

    • Like 1
  6. On 6/5/2020 at 9:34 PM, R50JR said:

    I have those brakes. The pads suck as they are mostly metallic. I bought ceramic pads and they are much better. As others have said, oe style brakes are the way to go. Also braided brake lines do nothing for performance.

     

     

    Sent from my Pathfinder

    Good to know.  Bought my QX4 used with the cheapest discount auto store metallic pads the dealer could get to sell it as "with new brakes."

    The metal on metal grinding started after just under 1k miles.  I hate metallic pads.

  7. The dealer I bought my QX4 from put the cheapest metallic pads on during the restoration process.

    Time for those to go as they're eating the rotors.

     

    Looking at Rockauto Brake Kits I see they have Daily Driver, Premium and Heavy Duty.

    Was going with a Daily Driver but the Heavy Duty caught my eye due to the emphasis on it being for truck, towing and offroad:

     

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3804288&cc=1432946&jsn=359&jsn=359

     

    Is this overkill?  I have another vehicle with slotted rotors and track pads that squeals and dusts like crazy.  Don't want that if I plan on only towing a motorcycle or light off roading peridocially.

  8. Greetings!  I am one month into my purchase of a QX4 and just did a 1400 mile road trip.

    Lots of things I'm interested in learning and doing, so hoping this is the right place for me.

    The goal is to have a daily driver that can hit light dirt trails and backroads in the TX, CA and NM areas.

     

    Wheels and suspension are my priority for now.

     

    Observations on my 1400 mile trip:

    • The MPG is horrible.  I will need to fab a rack for a Rotopax jerry can.
    • Cruise control only works when at or below 90 mph.
    • Slight improvement on MPG when switching from RWD to AUTO mode.  I am set on buying manual hubs as well now.
    • Like 2
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