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siggy

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  • Posts

    4
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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    bone stock '94 SE with 254,000 miles and a broken odometer
  • Place of Residence
    TX
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1994

Profile Information

  • Location
    USA
  • Country
    United States

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  1. @Slartibartfast has brought up good and accurate information. There are machine screws and course screws involved in fitting this together, and the foglight deal is kind of a menace with extra trim pieces that are not included with the bumper insert you show. I don't think you absolutely NEED those extra trim pieces though, they just make it look better. @Mr_Reverse is also completely correct regarding the fog light brackets, trim pieces and bumper brackets. I bought a bumper and brackets off a pre-facelift truck, maybe a 1992 or something for my 1994. Long story short, there was a bracket issue and I had to get...creative. It involved the 4 lb hammer and a bit of cursing (my truck had been involved in a front end wreck at some point as well so the bent frame horn and sheetmetal didn't help...) Pay attention to how the bumper brackets mount to the frame. It's not exactly what I would call intuitive and would be easier with a second person. Just my .02 ...Oh! And you may want to prioritize fixing that fuel leak! It has the tendency to explode, though the smell will be nice till that happens!
  2. Thanks! Front end work is going well. Had to get creative to press in the UCA bushings without access to a hydraulic press or ball joint tool, but a couple of clamps and some elbow grease did the trick! Anyone else had to resort to...creative measures to get those suckers in? On a sidenote, I picked up the bushings from autozone (duralast brand of course because above all things I am cheap!) and the turned out to be OEM, made in Japan. Score! As i get things buttoned up, I'm really not looking forward to alignment...I'll be digging into the forum posts for this one. Final aside: one of my lower ball joints came with metal circle spring clips to keep the boots seated, the other did not. Same exact part. Gonna run with it until I can't run it anymore - I guess I'll just shoot it full of fresh grease after every puddle??
  3. Hello all! I am in the middle of a front end refresh (CV axles, repack bearings/replace seals, rotors, pads, TRE, ball joints, sway bar bushings) and have hit a snag: When I peeled off my passenger side CV axle, I saw what I believe to be some nasty gear oil leaking out of the flange of the differential side shaft. I have a couple of questions regarding this discovery: - how could gear oil make it to the flange of the side shaft (where the CV axle mates) as the seals are inboard on the extension tube (this is the side opposite the pumpkin)? -is this just CV axle grease that has leaked out of the blown CV axle? smells a bit like gear oil however... but that could have been my gloves, that smell sticks around forever. The bottom of the extension tube doesn't appear to have a leak, just tons of old grease from the blown CV boots. -if I want to replace the grease and oil seals in the extension tube, can I remove the whole side shaft assembly from the extension tube by removing the four bolts on the extension tube retainer and pulling the shaft out, no need to mess with the internals of the diff. I don't see a retaining clip in there on the FSM diagram like is common on rear differentials to keep the shaft in place. The FSM for the R200A front axle (what I believe to have, 94 SE 4x4, MT, HG43 axle code in door jamb) has a single frame of a diagram showing a hammer tapping the side shaft assembly but is short on instructions. Attached is a frame of the manual showing the assembly I'm talking about. Thanks in advance. siggy
  4. hello NPORA! A few months ago I picked up a pretty beat and neglected pathfinder for a song. It was straight piped, had mismatched tires, and according to the previous owner 'definitely needed some suspension work.' Well, he was right, and I'm in the thick of a front end overhaul. The details: '94 SE, dark green 4x4, 5 speed 254,000 miles (frozen odometer) This is my first 4x4, and it has been something I have been wanting for quite a while, ever since I got my first 2wd pickup real stuck a good few times (oh to be young and foolish again). First thing I did was fix the exhaust, minus the one broken exhaust stud. replaced it with OEM style manifolds and a cheapo amazon muffler. Once I could hear my own thoughts in the truck, I took on the timing belt which was not easy. I'm used to wrenching on domestic vehicles - the truck i cut my shadetree mechanic skills on was a 2nd gen explorer and it doesn't get any simpler than that. I had my work cut out for me but despite some mishaps, she is still in time and purrs with a new water pump, cam and crank seals, v-belts, and 105k mile timing belt, not that I can tell how many miles I've put on it since the replacement. Now, I am undertaking a full front end refresh - UCA bushings, upper and lower ball joints, bearing clean and repack, all new wheel seals, new pads and rotors, new inner and outer TRE, new CV axles. Did the strut rod bushings a couple weeks ago, put a steering stabilizer on last week. I've got the bug with this truck. First thing is to get it back to stock 'new' condition, then on to mods. 1.5" rear lift coils and a mild t-bar crank up front for starters. Want to get a bit more clearance and appearance without stressing those super short CV axles too much. I did have the chance to off-road the rig a bit before I tore the front end down (those strut rod bushings were critical) and she rips on 31" mud tires. I can't wait to get back out there. I've been hitting the search bar hard on this site during all of these repairs (downloaded the FSM too, of course) and if I find an issue I can't find a solution for on this site, I'll be putting a post out there. For now, cheers, y'all. siggy
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