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Sassafrasparilla last won the day on November 5 2020

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    SE 4x4 VG30E
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE Offroad
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Location
    Squamish, BC
  • Country

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  1. Hey Crat64! What ended up happening to your transmission? I have the same issue with mine, everyone is saying it's done. Did you have any luck fixing yours? or replace/rebuild/sell?
  2. Hey Kennyu! What did you end up doing with your truck? Did you fix it? I have the same problem with mine right now. Considering all options haha
  3. Found this in another thread... I understand that my clutches, etc. are probably burned by now (the oil that came out was super dark and nasty smelling), but does anyone think that maybe the LINE PRESSURE SOLENOID has failed? In the A/T Manual, many of the diagnoses for the different issues I've had state line pressure solenoid, or Solenoid "A", among many other things. I love my truck and would love to fix it, rather than selling it for parts or buying a reman tranny. The transmission was very strong up until the last week of driving it, so I'd love to believe it's still got life left in it. Any input would be very helpful lol. I'm at the point where I'm willing to try to replace the transmission by myself in the Canadian Tire parking lot if I can find a good used one, but they're actually hard to find here due to high demand. Or maybe I'm not looking hard enough yet haha
  4. UPDATE: My buddy is an Auto Mechanics Professor at the University here. He took it for a test drive and says it's "Not in Limp-Mode". It's having trouble shifting into gears, and still no movement in Reverse. Reverse is engaging, but the truck doesn't move at all even when I rev it. He told me to not waste anymore money on it... But I don't want to say goodbye just yet. My 2 ideas now are the TPS and the MAF but not sure what to look for. Gonna try to clean the MAF and read some more.
  5. Wire harness looks fine where I plugged in the new sensor.. Is there any other spot that might have fried? I did shorten my "fusible link" attached to my Positive Terminal on the battery, because the thieves cut right through it. Could that have anything to do with anything? I cut them off flush with the plastic, as long as I could leave them, then put them together into a ring terminal, and onto the battery that way. The new connector was too expensive..
  6. Major Issue is GETTING OUT OF LIMP MODE. I replaced the Revolution Sensor, and the CODE is still there. Can I try unplugging the ATCU? I heard it's in the rear passenger wheel well. Any other ideas?
  7. So.. I drained the tranny fluid and refilled it with fresh stuff. I removed the cross-member tranny support and lowered the tranny to access the top of it and removed the Revolution Sensor. I installed a new NTK Revolution Sensor from Rockauto and put everything back together. Had the battery off all day hoping to reset the computer. Went out this morning, dropped the jacks, re-attached the battery and went for a test drive... STILL IN LIMP MODE!! STILL NO REVERSE!!! I went thru the steps to pull a code again, and it STILL gives me the Revolution Sensor code...?? Q: Does anyone know how to RESET the atcu? or REMOVE the code from the computer??? PLEASE HELP I need to move out of my apartment today, and this is my only vehicle lol
  8. I just noticed my Front Driveshaft appears to have spewed all it's grease from the nipple Is this a common wear problem? or could it be a result of the hot exhaust smoke beside it? --- I've located the wire for the Revolution Sensor under the hood, and followed it back to the top of the transmission. I sprayed the the bolts on the crossmember, gonna try to crack them shortly. I've read that I can just wiggle out the support and lower the tranny just enough to get the sensor out and replace it... anyone actually done this before? outside on the un-level street? 40 degrees Celsius and no shade? (that's 104 Farenheit) Also, gonna attempt the tranny flush. Any advice on that? Iol
  9. So now I also noticed that my front drive shaft has spewed all it's grease from the service nipple! Anyone with that issue? Maybe from it getting super hot?
  10. Wow awesome news! Thanks silverton! My speedo is fine, as far as a know. I can't seem to find an actual pic of the Revolution Sensor when it's uninstalled. Many pics seem to have threads on the sensor, and a nut to hold it in... So I'm kinda worried about pulling the old one out. If anyone has a picture of theirs, or the location, that would help a lot. I've seen all the diagrams online and they're fine, but a real picture would be super useful. I found an old post with one, but it's expired. Thanks!
  11. I made a new post, with updated info: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/46466-revolution-sensor-or-speed-sensor-limp-mode/ PLEASE HELP IF YOU CAN!!!!!
  12. Please Help! 1992 SE-V6 4x4 Auto WD21 I'm stuck in limp mode. Now reverse is gone too. Won't even roll in Neutral. Before this, Truck was driven 3 hours with the exhaust pipe disconnected just before the cat (cat was stolen). I think something was fried from the hot smoke, but maybe this was about to happen anyway, as it was giving me signs that were exactly as another post on here. (not shifting into OD) I did the tranny diagnostic and got the code for the Revolution Sensor. I called Nissan and they said $230 but it's in Japan, and that I should check napa etc. I found one on nissanpartsdeal.com and searched THAT part number on Rockauto and ordered it immediately for $115. But now I'm seeing the invoice and it says "Speed Sensor" #3193541X63 https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ntk,AU0005,speed+sensor,10634 Can anyone help me identify this part? I know I have to lower the tranny a bit to get at the rev sensor, but what if I have a different part? (VSS?) I will try changing the tranny fluid and filter, see if I find any crud in there. The sensor arrives early next week, I paid for express because I need this fixed!! Please comment if you have any suggestions, I've been reading NPORA for days, my brain needs a rest! Thanks!
  13. Hey! Old post, but what was the outcome?? My truck has the same exact problem
  14. Hi Speedbuggy67,


    I read a post of yours from 15 years ago about a grey resistor plug for the transmission, on the passenger fender wall. You said that you unplugged it and the transmission stopped slipping. 

    May I ask how long that lasted?

    You mentioned that you were at 208k miles at the time, did the transmission survive longer than that?


    No worries if you don't remember. I'm just trying to diagnose my issue.




  15. Hey, Thanks for the quick reply. Great news to hear about the "Limp Mode"! I'll try the pin thing right away and see if there's any codes. The O2 sensor is about 7" before the end of the pipe they cut off, so I was worried it might affect something. I'm ordering a new one with my new Cat from Rockauto, so might help. I have no idea how to "take a look at the TPS" but I will do some research and go from there. They definitely damaged the wires when they cut the battery. The 2-plug harness that attaches to the positive terminal was cut right through. I had to cut the end off and crimp the wires into some loop terminal things to make it work. Could they be affecting anything? I put the green wires together into one tip and the red ones into the other tip and attached them to the bolt on the positive terminal. I'll try to add a pic tomorrow. Doesn't look like anything else got messed with under the hood. I checked the transmission when I got home, and it wasn't hot by the exhaust, I could put my hand on it. I need to look again in the daylight if anything melted underneath- like wires. One thing I did do different was that when I left work, I used the air compressor hose to blow out my engine bay from all the metal shavings from sawing out the cables and the hold-down bracket. Could any dust or bits have flown into a sensor or anything? Now I'm overthinking.. I made a mistake on the first post, I meant P and N ... I edited the original so people don't get confused when they read it. lol I have checked the fluid with it warmed up and sitting cold and cold/just started and ran thru gears. All similar readings. Smell is hard to describe, but I don't think it's healthy (for it OR me haha) Also I should mention that this 92 SE has 257,000km on it and it hasn't had a tranny service or fluid change in at least the last year/30,000km that I've owned it, driving it hard. It probably was a very long time before that, so I might tackle the fluid change this weekend and see what else i find out. I've read the AT section of my Haynes, not much help. Thanks for the link to the Diagnosis PDF! That's super helpful. I've got lots of reading to do now. Thanks SO MUCH for your help, I'm scrambling to get this back on the road. I'll update soon as I have more info. This is the topic that has the guy saying the thing about "Unplugging the grey thingy" CLOSE TO THE BOTTOM of the thread above, a guy named SPEEDBUGGY67 says this: "unplug the gray plug under the hood above the passenger wheelwell you will see it bolted to the fender side. Unplug and try out the trans. I was told this was a resistor limiting pressure in the trans and if unplugged the Power light flashed but it creates more pressure inside a worn out trans giving it more time. Mines unplugged and reverse works and slipping is very limited opposed to the way it was before unplugging. def worth a try so unplug take it for a ride and try reverse. let us know how it goes. Scott ps before i unplugged this the mechanic put a different resistor inline for an added boost of pressure and it helped but i still had slipping now with it unplugged completely it works very well. This guy learned this on an early 90's maxima and 3 yrs later the maxima is still working so.........."
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