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flyingpathy

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Posts posted by flyingpathy

  1. 1 minute ago, R50JR said:


    Go to an autoparts store and rent the smallest puller they have. The inner flange has a cover that has to be popped off. Once the cover is off, you can use the puller on that end.
     

     

    Awesome. Thanks. I took apart Cardone ones and they just pop off so I was kinda hoping for the same here. Cheers!

  2. On 3/27/2021 at 2:51 PM, R50JR said:


    Best option is to reboot OEM axle.


    Sent from my Pathfinder

     

    I'm pretty sure I have to do this soon since I don't expect my Cardone temporary replacement to be a full time part, but I've ran into a problem. It seems the OEM joints are designed to not be removable so I don't know how to get the boots on. Are all OEM axles like this? Looks to me I might have to grind that off to remove the inner cup

    EW1ryPL.jpg

  3. On 3/28/2021 at 6:31 AM, RainGoat said:

    If you reboot, somewhere there’s a thread about the Rockford boots. I know[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] has been using a pair of aftermarket CVs for years without a problem. They were from a local auto parts store & have a lifetime warranty. Recently, it was discovered that some of the aftermarket CVs do not have as large of a range of motion as the OEMs so read that thread. If you replace, I’d do both & keep your good one around as an emergency spare. You could also harvest an OEM from junkyard -@TowndawgR50 & I split a set for just that purpose on one of our R50 strips.

     

     

    I read this post last week and found the website (looks like it's made in 1999). Tried calling them and couldn't get thru. Do they still exist? I'd prefer to reboot with these but as far as I can tell they don't exist anymore. Here's the website I found in the link, I'll try to post the thread here as well if I can find it. http://www.rockfordcv.com/

  4. On 11/24/2020 at 4:14 PM, hawairish said:

    When you say it sounds like binding when in 4WD, you mean you hear/feel something while driving?  Or just a driveway test?  Not sure why it'd be more pronounced in 4wd—I'd guess because torque and/or resistance is being applied—but you should confirm if it's binding at all.  Pull the tire, put a screwdriver in the rotor, and slowly turn it with minimal, consistent force.  Any hesitation you feel is probably from binding (presuming it's not something else, like brakes or bearings).

     

    While driving yes. Yet rear wheel drive is perfectly fine. Sounds very much like it did when I had my aftermarket axles with the lift when cornering but I agree, I didn't think it made much sense either. Thanks for the tips, I'll look into that soon.

     

    I haven't kept up on the Lokka install yet but I'll take a look into that too. I look forward to seeing a SFD procedure down the road! Thanks for your help.

  5. Welcome! I'll add that SF Creations makes the spacers for our trucks too. Take a look at their website, I believe the guys that own that company are regulars here as well. Careful around the 2" spacers without SFD though, and also note that any aftermarket axles will have a worse operating angle than originals.

     

    @hawairish  , I'm looking for some advice regarding my set up as well, which brought me to this thread. Can you help me out (or anyone else)? Thinking I have to do a SFD...

     

    I installed the SFC 2" spacers on top of Rancho RS5000 / OME HD strut assembly with oem axles and it sounds like I'm still getting binding in the axles BUT only when 4x4 is engaged. Have you heard of this happening before after a spacer install?

    I'm looking at doing the SFD sometime this winter as well to fix this, so how long would you say a SFD task would take for 1 or 2 guys in a driveway? Am I going to need an engine hoist? Is there a reliable procedure kicking around the forum? I'll continue digging around to see what I can find.

     

    Thanks!

     

  6. I'll add my set up because I'm getting issues and maybe this can help your case study. If there are any pinned lift threads, this should be involved. Sucks going through a build only to spend money on aftermarket CV's when they'll just break.

     

    CV Brand/PN: Cardone

    Markings: TBA

    Strut Brand/PN: Rancho RS5000 + OME HD

    Spacers: 1" SF Creations

    Binding: 2 - it binds on level ground.

     

    According to Rancho specs, the strut should match OEM dimensions, but I also have OME HD coils which according to their data adds 1/2" spring lift. With just this, I noticed light knocking but chalked it up to wheel rub on my bumper. Turns out it was light CV binding (1). I discovered this after installing the 1" spacer (1.5" total front lift) and the noise was accentuated, mostly at turns while driving. COULD be driven but we've determined it's unsafe to do so, thefefore level 2 binding.

     

    I think I might have my original CV's (please be OEM!) so I'm going to throw those back in and pray that works. After reading this post, I really hope your case study is right. Thanks for making the post.

    • Like 1
  7. 2 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:

    When you installed the axles, did you perhaps put the snap ring in the wrong groove?

     

    This is kinda what I'm thinking too. I'm not sure what he means by spindle seal though, but axle probably shouldn't be moving in and out of anything a 1/4". Maybe it moves just enough to nearly bind the CVs?

  8. 1 hour ago, DesertKyle said:

    If you installed your HDs recently mine took several months to break in, I rarely get harsh top out now and they ride much nicer then when I first installed them 6 months ago. No bumper but I do have beefy skid plates and a missing link which add some weight.

    Oh right on. Yah I installed mine back in late may/early june so they've only been on for ~4 months? So far I've had some pretty hard top outs and I think it might have broken the seals on one of my struts so I'm going back in there to replace those. I was kind of leaning toward keeping the HDs before your post but you've restored some of my confidence in them.

  9. image.thumb.png.4d465ba467e1304872ac14a5a6b308af.png

    On 4/20/2015 at 9:42 PM, hawairish said:

     

    They're all the same spring rate (200 lbs/in). Only difference is the free height.

     

    Source: OME catalog, 06/2014

    OMESprings0.jpg

     

    OMESprings.jpg

    @hawairish Hey Sorry to revive a nearly dead post, but I'm kind of confused about the free height differences on the different size springs. According to the chart I added I found on OME site all these springs should give a 0.5" lift to stock r50's. How does the free height change with a constant spring rate produce equal lifts? Am I missing something?

     

    I only ask because I have the 2928 and I find them a bit on the stiffer side (stock bumper/no front accessories) and I'm considering going to 2923 to get a bit of a smoother ride. But if all it will change is lift then obviously I won't bother. Also doesn't seem to be many ppl that opt for the medium duties...

  10. @PathyGig12 Thanks man! Much appreciated. I haven't gotten a lot of mentions yet but I know it still looks pretty basic without the roof rack and everything as my daily driver. Fully loaded it does balance out a bit, but yah it does kinda bug me still. Haven't tuned the headlights yet either so they point down too much. I ended up ordering 1" spacers and I have air bags that I'll try to fit in the rear again if the load gives me that negative rake. Hoping that levels it out more.

     

    @Fonze311 Right on man. I've read in another thread that 1.5" spacers are the max but I know how much information is on here and how all set ups can be different. This is the thread I found that info on, maybe that will help you too. Like I said, I have 1" spacers from SFCreations coming and throwing those in when they arrive. I'll try to remember to throw in an update post when it's done.

     

  11. Hey Guys,

    I'm wondering if I can get some advice on front lift options. I tried a heavy duty coil spring alternative to AC coils due to literally quite insane shipping costs ($200+ to Canada at the time)

     

    Installed:

    This has put a 1.5" height difference to the rear and I'm not super happy with it. It sounds like the seals in the new struts are going so I have to upgrade those again so I want to fix this unbalanced lift once and for all. I'm leaning toward spacer options but I don't want to mess up the axles. It seems to me a sacrifice has to be made either way between top out on the struts or axle collisions with the control arm.

     

    Do you think there's a market for used front coils appx 7k miles?

    What are the limits for spacer lifts to avoid axle issues? There has to be some sort of absolute definition, no?

    At what point are camber bolts required?

     

    Cheers

    20200920_182704_HDR_edited_lowqual.jpg

    • Like 1
  12. 3 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:

     

    I have always paid the extra for LTs on the SUVs I have had because I like having the stronger tire on my trucks because I do go off pavement.

    That's what I'm thinking too. Heard about these terra tracks but there doesn't seem to be a lot of experience with them out there and not being an LT I'm a little hesitant. Thanks for the nput! 

  13. 44 minutes ago, Megaton said:

    Look into General Grabber AT2. I run 31x10.50x15 LTs. They have been a great all round tire for me. A couple of winters ago we had 2+ feet of snow and I had no problem with it. I even pulled out a couple of stuck side-by-sides which left the drivers a little impressed. I think the Grabbers are a little cheaper than the KOs but they might not be as good of tire. I'm just going by my experiences.

    That's awesome. My neighbor has a set of those on his ranger and they look mean. Thanks for the suggestion! 

  14. 50 minutes ago, PathyGig12 said:

    Not sure why he would say your truck is too light weight for the KO2s?

    He was under the impression I was looking at E Load Rating for some reason. He seems to think the C load rating isn't very common either. Idk... seems to really want to push the Hercules for some reason.

     

    13 minutes ago, dezm said:

    I run 245/75/16 10 ply KO2 on my 03 and it’s fine. They ride a little harsh but are indestructible! I also use my truck a lot in the winter to get out skiing and they’re great in snow.

     

    Have you looked at Wrangler Duratracs? Canadian tire often runs sales on them. Very popular tire. 

    Indestructible is preferred! Never want to have a tire fall apart on the trail. I did take a look at the Duratracs but I think I'd take the KO2's at roughly the same price. Seems everyone rides those on here.

  15. What tires are you running on your pathfinder? Any of you experience the Hercules Terra Trac AT2? I can get a set for sub 900 but I've read mixed reviews. Some say great off road, some say never go off road so I'm not sure I should pull the trigger. 

    KO2s have great reviews but my mechanic mentioned my truck is too light weight to have 10 ply tires on. 

    I have the 9447s and bilsteins in the back and the ome HDs up front and I usually just explore logging roads. So huge puddles and rough gravel/rocks. Not much crawling or mud bogging. Would like to get out as much as possible this summer. Any suggestions? 

  16. @PathyGig12 Man this is quite the progress on your rig. Just kinda skimmed the whole thread and now it's giving me a lot of good ideas on what to do with mine haha.

     

    I noticed your tires are nearly 32", has that been an issue for you at all? I'm looking at going to 31.5" (265/70r17) AT's and I figure I'll have to cut out some of the trim at that point. Any pointers on picking out a good set? I do expect to mod the bumpers at some point down the road anyway but just curious about what I have to look forward to.

     

  17. 10 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:

    4x4parts buying and reselling OME coils is supporting OME....

    I see what you're saying. I just don't see why they don't become an official distributor of OME parts. Seems unorthodox to buy someone else's product, give it a new part number, and resell it. I dont really care tbh, that's between those two businesses, but I'd prefer to buy off a business who's more straight forward about their products.

  18. 2 hours ago, DesertKyle said:

    Yep no bind! They may wear out faster being a little beyond their intended range but this is a price I am willing to pay. I posted a pic of how my truck sits now I'm the LR spring install thread. I had no problems running the the 1.5" spacers/stock springs even though they bound terribly at full droop, but then again I don't drive like an idiot (more detailed account also in LR spring thread).

     

    Although apparently I don't actually wheel and am not experienced enough...?

     Right on. I saw the pic. What size tires you got there? I have 40% tread on 245/70r17 on but they look a little small. Comes to 29.5" OD, but I'm looking at going up to 265/70r17 GY Wranger Duratracs.

  19. 57 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:


     

    AC has an in house brand, and then also sells OME springs, but they don’t call them OME springs- they mask the brand. But the coils referred to as AC coils are different than OME and will lift a bit higher.

    This sounds like shady business to me. I'm not a fan of it. They should support other industry companies instead of taking a profit off their products.

    • Like 1
  20. Hm I might have to try this out. You put in 1/2" custom spacer with your OME HD's and don't have any cv bind, eh? I have the same set up (OME HD's and 9447's) and have a 1.5" rake unloaded. I'm loading it up this weekend for a test trip, but I'm contemplating putting 1/2" to the fronts and I like this option.

     

     

  21. Hey no worries!

     

    4 hours ago, PathyGig12 said:

    Right now my front is:

     

    21” from the hub to the fender 

    36” from the fender to the ground 

     

    And my rear is:

     

    19.5” from hub to fender

    34.5” from fender to ground

     

    Right on. I'm at about 20" hub to fender on the front and 21.5" hub to fender on the back. But that's mostly empty in the back so a full load would probably level it out.

     

    On your front though, do you ever experience hard drops when you're front wheels get air? As in the strut extends quickly and makes a thud? Is that a problem these lifts face? Harsh top-out is the term I meant.

  22. Thanks, hawairish. Exactly what I meant.

     

    I ended up getting the ARB 2928 coils for the front and I'm not getting as much height as I probably would have with the AC coils. This idea I mentioned was something I wanted to explore. Are there other alternatives to the AC's? Living in Canada, it would cost me $350 to get a pair shipped from Florida... which I kinda find insane tbh.

     

    It begs the question though, people seem to manufacture custom spacers to fit above the strut assembly, and it sounds like these AC coils are custom manufactured to fit pathfinders as well... I'm kinda surprised nobody has also come up with a solid design for "inter-strut" spacers if you will. It would allow for more spring options up front, without exceeding CV shaft specs.

     

    Just a couple thoughts.

  23. 14 hours ago, R50JR said:

    I really do not recommend installing any spacer on struts with stiffer springs. The OME HD spring already is near maxing out the length of the strut while truck is at rest. Adding a spacer pushes your cv beyond acceptable specs at rest. Think about the stress on the cv out on the trail with slight flex...

    Have you ever heard of adding a spacer between the coil and the body mount instead of the common spacer between the body mount and body? Sure it will add more extension to the strut in neutral position but it wont change the axle angle. I put in OME HD's up front and got very little lift and massive rake with the 9447s in the back.

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