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BamaQX402

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Everything posted by BamaQX402

  1. Mods; Sorry I posted this in the wrong place. I tried to delete it.
  2. Mine leaks, motor has power but only pops up, won't slide. I'm tired of wet floors. My idea is to thoroughly scrub clean the best I can, maybe wipe with lacquer thinner, mask it, a seal with black 3M marine 5200. Any advise or constructive criticism?
  3. I can't put off doing some much needed engine service much longer. Previously went in far enough to do power valve screws and replace a vvt solinoid. Didn't have the 12mm deep well to remove intake. And my passenger valve cover is toast, leaks like a sieve. So after a cooling system service on sis-n-laws 02 LE, I have most of my parts to do the same, but I want to replace all my PCV and heater hoses while I'm in there. I've looked/searched for a comprehensive diagram with part #s, Rock Auto is just confusing, I can't make sense weather they even have them all. Please someone share a link or steer me. TIA
  4. Yeah if you get to where a part of a system fails, that becomes your weak link (no pun intended) replacing only that part just exposes the next chink. Mine had death wobble when I bought it (I'm sure that's why it had been traded in) I started with rear links, just so I could drive, but then started gathering everything I needed for a complete front to rear suspension/steering rebuild. So then I decided whilst I'd have it all apart, just go ahead and lift it at the same time!
  5. Well dang it, with this last cold burst I've noticed the last few cold starts I'm getting that delayed 1-2 shift, not quite slipping, but something is up. It hasn't been giving any trouble, I did a drain and fill back in the summer. Just over 200,000 miles. Does my 02 3.5 have a similar trans as a 99 with the 3.3? There's one local. Or can my transfer case be added to a 2wd transmission? There's one of them local as well
  6. I guess I've narrowed it down to 2 choices, within $16 of each other; AVN 461 for $132 or Mile Marker 435 Supreme for $116 (I found a set of 435s listed for a Sentra for $108, but no info as to spline count) Anyone care to opine on the best choice?
  7. I guess I've narrowed it down to 2 choices, within $16 of each other; AVN 461 for $132 or Mile Marker 435 Supreme for $116 (I found a set of 435s listed for a Sentra for $108, but no info as to spline count) Anyone care to opine on the best choice?
  8. I don't use any special tools to install new races, I use the old race and a piece of pipe. Something I found out the hard way, there's a 3rd axle needle bearing in the back of the knuckle. Only available from the dealership for $60 pair. I changed mine without removing the seals, those are $120 a set.
  9. I just did mine, I was back and forth on which one to use. Ended up buying one from eBay for $17 and the gasket for $11. It was just as heavy as the OEM, very solid, no issues.
  10. I'm going on the assumption they're roached based on the amount of brass shavings found inside. I'll pony up for better ones at this point. I'm frugal (in that I'll buy a gallon for twice the price of a quart), I'm not scared to spend money on a better part. I had heard of folks having good luck with these, but it ain't me. We have very little in my area for junkyards. Because we have one that has 5-6 portable crushers that they take to all the others and crush everything, very sad. I work 12hr night shifts and just don't have "picking time" to search...
  11. Looking to buy a set of manual hubs for my 02 Qx4. I've wasted my money/time on the cheap ebay offerings that look like the Rugged Ridge, they only last a couple of months before they start grinding in free mode. Would like a decent used set of; OEM factory, Mile marker, Rugged Ridge, or Aisin. If anyone has an extra Set of 28 spline laying around... I have some trade fodder; extra set of new Nolothane panhard bushings, and a panhard drop bracket?? Thanks, Bama
  12. To revisit this & update; I've been running these locked. A couple of weeks ago I finally had the chance to rebuild my front end, everything new from the axles out + steering. Well I still have the noise. It had been so long that I didn't think to swap sides, so I did Monday and the noise followed to the drivers side, and that hub had a considerable amount of brass flakes in it. So I'll be shopping for some better manual locking hubs. Just wanted to warn folks about the $50 generic hubs from eBay. ** Anyone have an extra set they want to sell or trade?**
  13. So I bought the cheap one and installed it Monday. Seems well made, just as heavy as OE, and fit perfectly.
  14. Yeah I've got a pretty extensive stock pile, even 2 or 3 different thickness SS. For bends I'm religated to score with a cut off disc, bend, weld, grind. Weight has become a concern, my OME HD springs & SF 1" spacers didn't quite give me the lift I wanted. It's only 2 weeks old and I'm already thinking sub frame drop!
  15. Since I finished my lift 2 week ago "somebody" crunched the oil pan. So I'll be more focused on down & back before forward & up. Not exactly sure where I'll end up, no map or plan, just started by removing the tie down loops and transferring the mounting holes to pieces of steel I salvaged from a pallet jack. They hang down 2" and extend forward of the bumper cover 2". Today I cut a 1.5" angle to span and bolt to the cross member, 6 bolts; 2 from rack guard, and 4 more larger holes that weren't being used, still need to pick up those bolts. As soon as I have all 6 bolted I'll tack the angle to the brackets. This will be the rear attaching point of the receiver tube, also the start the skid plate off the back vertical part of the angle. No capability/ability/resources to weld aluminum, so everything will be steel from my "resource" pile. >So question time; for skids, does anyone make "wings" to connect the sides to the frame like the factory plastic splash guard? What thickness is recommended? I'm thinking 3/16" for the front, then thicker on the bottom. I think I'd like to reinforce the subframe cross member with a piece of 3x1/4" that can be drilled/tapped. Where is a good source for disirable SS low profile fasteners? I made my missing link from some 1" solid stock with 1/4" tabs, plan is to drill and tap it for the mid/rear section. Since I'll no longer have tie downs, will a shackle in the receiver suffice? Any advice or constructive criticism is greatly appreciated!
  16. $20 $50 $140??? I know you get what you pay for, but is it really that big a deal to need an oem pan, are they not all just a piece of stamped steel? Mine is crushed, all of a sudden since I lifted it 2 weeks ago, "no ones" driven it off road... I'm building something; bull/brushguard/receiver/skid plate type of system. Probably need to focus down and back before forward and up.
  17. I'm using 2 sets of bolt as well, but I'm confused, I think I got them maxed out in the wrong direction, as my angle is still pretty extreme. Got to replace an ABS sensor this week & I'll switch mine around. I made a panhard drop bracket, but didn't even think about end links, this is the 1st time I've heard it mentioned, do tell...
  18. My problem is the aggravation of doing all that from my phone. I don't have internet, therefore nor a computer at home. I don't even have tv service. I live out in the middle of nowhere, but we love it, no neighbors. I might can find the time to set up an account from work...
  19. I guess I've used all my allotted pic space? I'll post some pics on the NPORA fb page tonight..
  20. Got a lot done this week, despite starting from the bottom of the learning curve. I spent 5 days on this, but did some other thigs also (sanding/painting, panhard drop bracket, figuring cutting brushguard mounts) next one I could do in 2 days. A little disappointed with the amount of front lift, I suspect I may have received OME MD, I wanted HD to accommodate extra weight, now I'm re-thinking my brushguard/receiver/skid plates and my solid missing link that probably weighs 20+ pounds "Ignorane, once dispelled, never returns" Some thigs I've learned; There is a 3rd axle needle bearing in the knuckle, apparently dealership only part# 40588-88G00 (and it can be changed without removing the $30 seal) The hub bearings fit so tight, once I had the rotors on, I found it necessary to drive it onto the spindle. You're better off unplugging the ABS sensor and leaving it in the knuckle. When I tried tightening the locknuts on my SF spacers they unscrewed the bolts. I was afraid I'd strip the threaded holes in the spacer, but it's important to give them a good snug, and I used locktite. Thought I had my oil leaks arrested, but now to my horror the RMS has started to drip...
  21. I'm trying hard to get to that point. I took vacation time this week to rebuild my suspension, thought I had all my parts until I pulled spindles, discovering another set of needle bearings. Even with the part #, Gomer at the Nissan parts counter argues with me as to weather Nissan parts fit a Qx4. Ordered from another dealership. Be here in the morning. Now I'm worried I may need some "elusive" snap ring...
  22. Great! now please excuse my ignorance, but do I want the washers towards the front or back?
  23. I'm waiting for front axle bearings/seals to finish my front end. I've installed KYBs, OME HD springs, & 1" SF spacers. I orderd a set of camber bolts from Rockauto, then a 2nd set. But I ended up with 2 different types. 1st set is a bolt, nut, & washer with tab. How do I use that washer? 2nd set is even more complicated; bolt, plastic egocentric sleeve, 3 flat washers, hex washer with raised egocentric boss, & nut. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated. Planning on one of each on both sides. Which would be best for top/bottom? Should I just put in stock bolts and trust the guy doing the alignment to know how to use them? I took a pic, but system says I have 0 mb of space to load??
  24. Too bad for me (Qx4) all the cools racks I find have NISSAN embossed. OCD won't permit such...
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