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About Daddybender

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    It's red
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    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
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    Rarely Go Off-Road
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  1. Well, we just got back from a 308 mile trip, and only used 18 gallons. That comes out to 17mpg. Granted, it was 99% 60-65. Couple small towns, couple elevation climbs of probably 1000'+. I'm ok with that. After changing the thermostat and coolant, temp gauge now gets to where the needle just touches the bulb on the thermometer on the temp gauge. And that's at the top of a good climb having to drop to 4th for the last mile or so. Wife and I, and a full tank. We actually had to turn the heat down. So, while it's not face melting, it is in fact adequate. I also have to remember I have at least double the volume of air to heat up as my Sammi, and it ain't no Bimmer. Thanks for all the help guys. I really do appreciate it. I'm gonna try to create some other posts on here when I get to other to-do's. Hubs. DeeDeer guard. Injectors -Bender -.
  2. Welp. All that work done. Definitely not AS rich, but still a bit rich. And that's by my nose, so, nothing scientific by any means. Still has a little miss, so I'm gonna bet dollars to doughnuts I got at least the one injector leaking. I did the FSM testing for the O2 and mixture, and both checked out 'ok' by the book. Still gonna replace the O2 sensor. I can without a doubt confirm that my clutch fan is pulling a SIGNIFICANT amount of air through the radiator. I can also confirm that it is slipping at idle and cold, but only by the noise. Did the newspaper trick and the fan started shredding the newspaper, so definitely not slipping much. I did the old-timer trick and covered probably 90% of the radiator with cardboard. I'll either make something out of plastic or...conveyor belt material. Yeah. I got LOADS of that at work. First test drive I had half the radiator covered. Temp gauge was maybe a needle or two farther towards the center. After the 20 minute highway drive, I can hold my hand on the upper hose and the heater hoses, so still not what I would consider 'operating' temp. Lower hose definitely warmer now than it was before. -Bender
  3. @Slartibartfast The clutch is held on with studs that aren't threaded all the way down. That's why I was asking if I could just run fan-less...until I got some new bolts. I'll just leave the clutch on it as a spacer for the nuts. My sammi hasn't had a fan on it since I stuffed the 1.6 in it. Even in triple digits it's fine, just cant let her sit still for more than a couple minutes. Read you guys on the O2 sensor. Since the PO installed a brand new clutch, I'm gonna return the one I ordered and get an O2 sensor coming. As for mileage, I'd be totally content with 15. That's what I'm used to now. As for power, she's got enough for me right now. I'm no hot-rodder left-foot anymore. It took me until I was 35 to learn that lesson, but I learned it. That's what I got the Bimmer for....and the Sammi. I just want this to be a comfy ride to and from work, and around town. Swapping in some manual hubs is the NEXT thing on my list. -Bender Oh. And the ECM ECT sensor is a bluish-green one.
  4. With your gauge not going above 1/3, what kind of heat do you get out of the heater? In my wife's BMW (1997), I cant take it if it's set above 75 with fan on medium. In the Pathy, I have the hot/cold on max hot and the fan on max and after 20 minutes on the highway (after a 15 minute warm up), the cabin is finally 'warm'. Am i expecting too much of the heater in this rig? When you say "a big difference", how do you mean? -Bender If this 170 doesn't make a difference, I may just skip the 180 and go straight to a 192.
  5. @Mr_Reverse What fuel grade do you run? -Bender
  6. If the gauge ECT sensor was bad (gauge wasn't working), could the ECM ECT sensor have failed as well? Messed-up coincident if the ECM sensor failed during/after the rig was stolen. The FSM shows me how to test it, so that's on my to-do list for tomorrow. -Bender
  7. My sammi also runs on the cold side. I went as far as to fabricate an aluminum plate that bolts on to block the radiator. With it installed, I get JUST enough heat to keep the windshield 'somewhat' defrosted. We get alot of snow around here, so cardboard don't last long, but I get what your saying. -Bender
  8. As much as I hate to say it....if 12-13mpg is the best I get outta her....I may just put her back on CL and get something else. I got this because I didn't want the MPG of a Ford 4.0 or a GM 4.3, but both of those powerplants get way better than 12-13. Hell. My old service truck was a 2012 Ram 3500 with a 6.7 turbodiesel, and IT got 14mpg. This rig is smaller and lighter than a Ranger/Blazer, albeit with a smaller 6, but still. My '88 Samurai with a 1.6 16v gets 15. She's a 100hp/2500# setup. 25#/hp. The Pathy is 153hp/3850#...25.16#/hp. Theoretically, I should be able to get about the same mpg. Not arguing, this is just how my mind works. I should also note...when I made my first trip to go look/work on it, the insides of the tailpipe were spotless. That was telling me it was running close to perfect. So, this running rich thing is something that has changed since I brought her home. Could there be something up with the Carter fuel pump I put in? No. That's the job of the FPR. I checked that hose and it was connected, but I can't see back there to check for cracks. I'm gonna pull that hose and just make sure it's not cracked. I'm also gonna check the ECM for any codes...well, I'll get her put back together and running, THEN check the ECM. The FSM has instructions to check the O2 sensor AND the mixture sytem. -Bender
  9. Come to thinking of it deeper....if it's running as rich as it is, shouldn't the plugs be...black? How long does it take to foul plugs? -Bender
  10. @SlartibartfastThe dehumidifier function makes sense. Yes, I do have the push button HVAC (the AUTO function even works!!!). Would it be a slow on/off cycle? Pretty sure mine is a slow cycle, but I'll pay more attention to it next time. Also the closed loop sounds right to me. Before I started working on it today, I fired it up and backed it up a few feet. Left it running and jumped out to smell the exhaust. Smelled perfect, which it would in a "cold-start mode", I would think. Friday when I got home, I didn't even need to get close to the tailpipe and my eyes were burning. So, when cold, mixture is good. When warm, WAY rich. Failed/ing O2 sensor? The thermostat that the PO put in...I've never seen one where the valve (the flat part that moves) had a rubber coating on it. I figure if anything, that would make it stick closed (it was closed when I pulled it out)...but wouldn't a stuck closed thermostat lead to an overheating condition? The one I installed did not have any rubberized coating. THANK you for the bleeding g procedure!!! Just went and put my eyes on it. The coolant that came out sure wasn't a nice clear green. It was actually kind-of...dirty? Almost like it was some of that reclaimed stuff you can get at wrecking yards. Come to think of it...the thermostat had this dark, almost sooty coating on it. Wiped off easy and not oil-based... As for the spark plugs. Last person who did it only changed the easy, passenger plugs. Those three were nice and golden white. Driver's three...2 & 6 were darker than the passenger side, but serviceable. #4 was definitely running rich. Posts inside the cap were pretty carbon-arced, and the rotor actually had a burnt look to it. Got the thermostat in, new plugs in, new cap and rotor in. Tomorrow I'll button everything up (found some loose lower radiator hose clamps), clean the MAF, and replace the air filter (I have one, sooo). Looks like a new radiator was installed too. No debris in the fins. If I still don't get up to OT, would there be any harm in running without a fan but leaving the clutch on? Sorry th for the long-winded post. -Bender
  11. Only thing that even points me in the direction of the clutch is I can hear it engaging and disengaging while she's warming up in the morning. And it's in the 30'sF at that time. IF the clutch is functioning correctly, other than the initial engaging, shouldn't it stay disengaged until it gets overheated? Or even just REALLY warm? -Bender
  12. Just got this rig. Check my intro post here: Been driving her for three weeks now, about 60 miles a day. 30 miles each way, all at highway speeds. Previous owner replaced fan and clutch, thermostat (170), timing belt/wp, and all hoses. I'm not going through any coolant. After a 30 minute drive, upper radiator hose is hot and hard, lower hose is cold. Heater hoses are same temp as upper radiator hose. Temp gauge has never gone any higher than 1/4 (halfway between bone cold and straight up). Has been running SUPER rich. Like, 12mpg rich. First time I started her, it was inside a garage. Ran her for probably 15-20 minutes. Definitely wasn't running rich then. Today I'm changing cap/rotor/plugs. Wires are in route (local wanted $110, RA was $45. Yeah. They can wait.) Air and fuel filters are new. I'm getting another thermostat today. I'll probably swap it out too along with some fresh coolant. Just curious if there's anything else I should be checking regarding the low heat? Another fan clutch is also in route. Ordered that before I found d out it was already replaced. TIA -Bender
  13. Recently picked up a new (to me) '93 SE with 220k miles on the clock for $900. Had to drive 3 hours to get to it. Was a theft recovery vehicle. The ba$tards busted the ignition, stole the battery, and punched a hole in the tank. I replaced the ignition, battery, and repaired the blown fusible links first trip, THEN found the hole in the tank. Had a buddy with car trailer haul it back to his shop where we installed a new fuel tank and pump, installed the new brakes on rear axle, flushed some funky crap out of the clutch master cylinder. There was a new fuel filter in the back, so I installed that as well. Fired her up and she ran like a top!!! Previous owner had replaced front brakes and wheel bearings, fan and fan clutch, wp/timing belt/thermostat, ALL coolant hoses, harmonic balancer and pulleys, front crank seal, front cam seals, and changed all the drivetrain fluids. He had purchased new rotors/pads/calipers for the rear, but it got stolen before he got to doing that job. Those also got done before I brought her home from my friend's place. She's a redhead, through and through. No cracked windshield. No dents. No rust. The carpet isn't even worn under the pedals. EVERYTHING works. All the power windows, both power mirrors, map lights, hatch popper. Hell. Even the factory alarm system works. Wiring hasn't been hacked into anywhere. A couple issues have reared up in the three weeks I've been driving her, but that's for another thread. Hopefully I'll get to put some miles on her for a while. -Bender

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