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PathyGig12

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Everything posted by PathyGig12

  1. One other aspect of this rack is going to be accounting for the curve of the roof rails. I’m thinking I’ll have to use some sort of wedge shims towards the front and rear to act as spacers between the basket and the rails. My current basket is much shorter and even it was starting to bend slightly as I tightened it down flush with the rails.
  2. Sorry when I said “cross bars” I just meant the new crossbars that will be part of the basket. The factory rails will provide the mounting points with captured nuts/bolts and hold down the bars with some sort of pre drilled brackets that screw into them As for the hood glare. I’ve been considering this for some time now, and I think I want to make some sort of thin shelf below the light bar to keep the light from aiming directly at the hood. I’ll see what I can come up with, but a basic way to do it would be to mount the bar right side up with L brackets coming down from the basket to support it underneath instead of from above, and then put the thin sheet of material over the studs between the bar itself and the brackets, then tighten it all down. If positioned closely enough to the bar, it wouldn’t have to be too long to keep glare off the hood. Then again the easier (and cleaner) way would be to sink it back into the basket frame and let the basket corner take care of the glare. If I end up going this route I’ll chop the basket a few inches shorter so there’s no overhang since I wouldn’t be using it anyway. I’m also looking in to using amber film for the light bar like I’ve seen others doing on this site. That alone should cut down a lot of glare
  3. The basket frame is taking shape. Needs vertical bars and cross bars now. Can’t decide on how many I want or how to best lay them out. Then I’ll go back and smooth out my welds and paint the sucker. I’m going to use the factory rail channels to mount it the crossbars will sit over them and I’ll be able to use modified U bolts to sinch it all down
  4. Update time. In the past month I got the upstream O2s swapped out finally (what an absolute pain in the ass), and changed the EGR valve as part of preventative maintenance and partially in an attempt to address my excessive fuel usage. Didn’t help much, but it does idle a bit lower now for some reason. I also got a cat code recently that popped up for a few hours but it hasn’t come back since I cleared it. I’m wondering if they could benefit from some cleaning? That could help improve mileage a bit. Other than that, I’m going to just have to chalk it up to the crap load of gear and poor aerodynamics lol. I removed the original chamber thingy for the air intake so now it’s a straight path between the filter and the outside air through the hole in the body. Not ideal for water intrusion but I have plans for some mods to address that. Currently Im in the process of fabricating a new roof basket out of some steel tubing. I’m going radical this time and making it full length and width. It’ll stretch 48” between the tops of the doors and run from slightly over the windshield to the furthest back point that still allows hatch access. The reason I’m overhanging the windshield is so that I can then mount the main light bar under the rack so that it almost becomes a windshield mount but without needing to drill any holes in the body. The extra real estate of a full rack will be seriously helpful for long road trips with the pets so that I don’t have to crowd them with a bunch of suitcases/camping gear in the back seat. I’ll also have room for the second spare and some additional gas cans if necessary Oh yeah and I just discovered aluminum extrusions on Expedition Portal, which is bad for my wallet but good for my creative mind. I’m considering building a simple set of drawers for the cargo area. It’ll take a while to put together all of the materials and figure out my favorite layout but I’m hoping to have it done by summer. Mostly I just want a place to put tools and spare parts without using tool boxes like I’m doing right now. It’ll free up a lot of room and declutter the back so I can make it usable for the pets. Only question is wood vs hdpe for the main panels. I think I want plastic for weight savings but it’s more expensive so I’m not totally sold yet
  5. Mine top out constantly on the road because denver pot holes are terrible. It’s been a year since I put the AC coils on the front and no damage yet. I do food delivery most days as a side hustle so the truck sees a LOT of miles on these pot holes.
  6. Is is too much to ask for an E-locker that priced around $700?? Lol Im not super into the idea of a rear Lokka but it’s nice that there might soon be an option for it.
  7. Sounds dope. Every mention of lockers makes me want them more. COVID sucks
  8. “All mode” locker switch? Do tell.... Also, Patrick’s rear bumper is still one of the sickest things I’ve seen on a pathfinder.
  9. It’s possible, but my hood is not super perfect anymore so there’s a sizable gap around that area and I think during the winter the outside air gets in there enough to make it nice and cold. But overall I haven’t noticed much different either way.
  10. I’m thinking here somewhere. Plenty of space now that the airbox is gone. Just need to build a bit of a bracket/platform
  11. Come on, SOMEBODY must have successfully changed U-joints on an R50 before?
  12. Well I ended up going with the 2780 compressor which is the smaller version of it. Should be plenty good enough for my needs and will likely fit a whole lot better. If not, I’ll look into making a small frame and mounting it in the spare tire well with a thin gauge plate beneath it to give some protection from the elements. Or something. I’ll have to first see how big it is. There’s a chance I could also fit it in the cabin somewhere
  13. Yeah man that’s what I was thinking. I might be able to handle it but my girlfriend sure as hell wouldn’t. I’ll keep saving for the rear locker for now. Just bought a smittybilt compresor and hopefully it’ll be able to mount in the engine bay and work with the locker.
  14. Super interesting. Now I’m curious how the lokka works with manual hubs and the ATX14a. Does it actually get ignored by the system when the hubs are unlocked or does it still interfere? I’ve heard it’s supposed to be invisible but since finding out that the front is still spinning while unlocked, I’m not so sure of the effect.
  15. These look promising for the rear as well, but it’s hard to know for sure GMB 2150029
  16. I was reviewing this thread for info about U-joints but it left me more confused than when I started. Anybody know what the consensus is for R50 u joints that fit properly and aren’t a pain in the ass to install? For now I’m ruling out parts store garbage brands and want to stick with something solid, but if anyone has part numbers of “lesser” brands that have worked perfectly and been bomb proof on their trucks, feel free to mention them! As I understand it, the snap rings must be internal for the 2001 with an Auto transmission, so I did a search and found that the spicer 5-3218x seems to be correct for the front but I’m wondering why it was never mentioned in the above thread? I also can’t seem to find any for the rear besides the 5-1505x which was said to have external snap rings, but multiple websites list them as having internal, so I can’t tell. I took a look at neapco for the rear but they no longer list the 1-0029BF, only the regular 1-0029, which hawairish stated he had lots of trouble with.
  17. Haha believe me, I can’t even get her to pay attention long enough to understand what the hubs do! She’s like nope I’m not touching those, so now if there’s a chance of snow I leave them locked and in auto mode so there’s no thinking involved.
  18. Yeah I’ve always considered the Lokka as a good option but could never bring myself to add another complicating factor to the front end. I guess I may be overthinking it but if I can’t even trust the transfer case to be doing what I expect (because of the manual hubs), then adding a mechanical locker just puts another layer of complication on top. If that makes any sense? I understand that it’s been proven to work well but something about the traction dependent behavior still makes me worried on patchy snow, especially because my girlfriend drives the rig sometimes and wouldn’t know what was going on mechanically if it suddenly locked up The other side of the equation is that I prefer rear lockers in general, just because the weight is on the rear when you’re climbing hills with technical terrain, especially with how heavy my rear is with all the cargo and tire carrier. I get the logic behind locking the IFS front but I also think it’s a little more risky because the CVs are not as strong as the rear shafts. The other thing a rear locker gets you is a backup option if you snap a CV. You can just remove it, unlock the hubs and you’ll still have a locked rear that can do almost as much as you could using 4Hi Ideally I’d like both eventually, but my top priority is the rear
  19. Isn’t this the one that fits open R50 diffs? We have 33 splines no? https://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/powertrax-rear-lock-right-locker-nissan-h233b-4-pinion-carrier-pt-3220.html
  20. Latest news.... I went ahead and updated the exhaust behind the cats. I had a muffler shop install a flow master dual 2” inlet/single 2.5” outlet, with all new pipes and delete the resonator. Now she sounds a lot better, but it isn’t obnoxious or droning in my opinion. I also installed wheel 1.5” spacers all around to bring the tires to the edge of the fender flares and give the truck a better stance/more stability in corners. So far no issues yet so I think I installed them properly. This also sets me up nicely for the next time I change tires in a couple years. I should be able to go with 33s and won’t have to change rims, which is nice. It’s possible I’ll need to lose the stock fender flares to be able to tuck them but we’ll cross that bridge when we get to it. Next up will be Bilsteins in the rear, and I think I’ve decided on the 5100s for now rather than saving up for the 5160s since I don’t do a lot of high speed trails. Then I’ll start saving for a locker in the rear, but I can’t decide whether I want to drop the cash on an ARB set up or just find a junkyard non-LSD diff and throw a cheap lock-right in it? I’ve heard good things about them, but selectable would be nice too
  21. Good points. I’ll make sure to update my build thread when I get around to starting this project. For now I’ve got some other stuff to work on, and I also don’t want to derail this thread any more than I already have.
  22. Interesting. I hadn’t considered that. I guess the best way to go about it would be to either track down an 01 SE in a junkyard and compare, or find a Z with that tranny to check out. Preferably both for the sake of info gathering. Typically I think the part numbers are slightly different if they have different internals or housings, but I may be wrong and it could be completely impossible to tell without being inside of one. I’ll see what I can dig up on Z related forums maybe. I know there are different letters on the end of some, like I’ve come across a listing for a FS5R30D while looking for an A. Not sure of the difference though
  23. No worries man, it’s all good if you don’t end up swapping it. I just meant that you IF you did, then make sure to document it Anyway, I did some more digging and I think figured it out. The tranny is these seems to be part number 32010-JK41A, which is the transmission from the 350Z, also known as the FS6R31A. The manual from the VG33 pathys was the FS5R30A I’m pretty happy now knowing if I buy one from a Z it should fit when I get around to doing the swap. They are pretty easy to find. The question remains how much of the other stuff will need to be modified though
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