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PathyGig12 last won the day on May 20

PathyGig12 had the most liked content!

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About PathyGig12

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    NPORA Veteran

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Silver 2001 LE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
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  • Year

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  • Country
    United States

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226 profile views
  1. Gotcha, that makes sense. Mines an 01 with the 16” wheels, didn’t know they switched to 17s after that year
  2. Ummm, are you sure about that? The Warn hubs fit perfectly through the center bore on my factory LE 6 spoke wheels
  3. I’ve had good experience with KO2s in just about every environment from snow to rocks, but I’m currently running the Wildpeak AT3Ws and I like them even more. In regards to size, you can usually go taller but not much wider unless you add wheel spacers or change wheels. My wildpeaks are 32”s but very narrow. they’re 235/85 R16, and they fit great with the AC lift up front. Sure they don't look quite as mean as a wider tire might, but there’s a great case to be made for the benefits of narrow tires so I’m sticking to them for now
  4. Woohoo, thanks for the video man I still have very little understanding of what you’re doing because I don’t know much differential internals, so I’ll still need a helper when the time comes, but I’ll be glad to have your tutorial on hand for reference
  5. Whoops, should have clarified a bit on the red HiLift..... I was referencing the sky high mall crawler wranglers with “salt life” stickers that have never even seen a fire road and always seem to have the bright red one mounted at least a foot off of the hood so that it’s literally blocking their windshield. We get lots of those guys here, I used to see tons parked at my school Anyway, I thought about posting a bit of a description of how I mounted it, but honestly it’s just not that interesting. I just measured equal distance from the side of the sprayer nozzles and drilled holes to bolt through to the other side. Then I filled the bolt holes with gasket sealant before dropping the bolts in so that it wouldn’t collect water. If I could do it over again I would probably have put a rubber spacer between the hood top and mounts so that the vibration doesn’t wiggle it around and damage the paint. Otherwise it works great and has been solid since it went on. I’ve taken it down a couple times to lift up the rear and it’s actually pretty easy to take off and put back on. I’ll definitely check out big bend NP next time winter sets in, thanks for the tip. And I’d love to do the full alpine loop here in CO, but we’ll see what I can reasonably put together this summer. My dad will likely come along for some of the trails so we can wheel our pathfinders together. He’s got an old WD that’s still kicking despite no major parts replacement.
  6. Either way it’s bad news and I sure as heck don’t want to be the test case, but I think it would probably grind and overheat because of the clutch plates trying to engage the stationary front, but once engaged fully, it might not do any further damage because I think the CVs should just spin inside the hubs if any power was send to the front? But I’m pretty sure the issue is that you’d spend a lot of time in the overheating grinding stage because the AUTO mode is not a constant lock to the front, and so you’d get intermittent attempts to engage it depending on how the sensors interpreted the perceived lack of rotation in the front shaft and front wheels, and lots of attempted engagement means lots of time for the clutch plates to be grinding while mating to the stationary shaft Thats my take anyway, could be totally wrong
  7. Will do I’m looking to hit Imogene and yankee boy basin for starters, then probably several others in that area between July and October
  8. I think it’s closed right now for the pandemic, otherwise I’d love to check it out.
  9. “Curious” being the nicest way of saying you’re not a fan? When it comes to the hood mounted high lift, I’m pretty sure you’re right that I’m the only R50 that has it, and I’ve been shocked at how long it’s taken anyone to bring it up. Does it look a BIT poser-ish? Sure. But I took steps to reduce the douche level by mounting it super low profile to the hood and not buying a flaming red one like you see on a lot of jeeps. It doesn’t block the view out of the windshield or block the fluid sprayers, and gives me another option for emergency recovery, which is always good to have when you don’t have a proper winch. The main reason I mounted it on the hood as opposed to the roof or tire carrier was for the weight balance. My rear is loaded down with tools, water, camping gear and spare parts most of the time, so bringing the 40lbs of jack further towards the front wheels helps even things out a bit. Of course it matters less with the 9449s now, but still a good idea When it comes to the hubs, the whole point of using the unlocked position is to save CV boots from tearing over a short time because of the increased angle. The mileage benefits are minimal like you said, but keeping the boots intact is a pretty good reason to use them. Ive also found that it’s not too difficult to plan out when you need to lock them to use AUTO mode and 4WD. If there is any sort of bad whether or I’m getting off of a paved road, then I lock them and put the truck in AUTO. I leave them unlocked when I’m doing 70 on dry highways for hundreds of miles because there’s no need to wear out the boots when I won’t need AUTO mode. The running boards were a pretty easy call for me, I did like the extra bit of protection they offered, but I never find myself doing any serious rock crawling and I don’t even use them to stand on. If I’m going for the roof rack I just stand on the rear tire, so honestly I just saw them as dead weight and something to detract from the overall height. I haven’t really felt that it makes anything look “unfinished” either I do however agree with you about the charcoal metallic trim going well with the red shackles! In all seriousness, I appreciate the detailed breakdown and constructive criticism, it’s a whole lot better than a vague “like”. The whole reason I’m on this site is to get new ideas and hear new opinions about modding R50s, so its great having passionate people to engage with. Lord knows there are very few of us out there. I think I’ve seen maybe two lifted R50s in the past 5 years? Anyway, the main thing I want to do now is figure out this vibration issue in the front shaft and make sure the truck is ready for the summer wheeling season. I’m planning on making trips to Yankee boy basin, Imogene, and a handful of other trails in July but before then the truck needs another oil change and the rear diff oil should be swapped as well, it’s been 4 years since that was done last. I also want to change the fuel filter and open up the intake to clean the throttle body, MAF, and IAC valve. I have this uneasy feeling that I’m on borrowed time with the kind mileage that this truck has. I’m kind of shocked that the OEM injectors, fuel pump, and O2 sensors haven’t started causing issues, so I’ve been looking around for spares to just about everything that is likely to fail soon. My dad found an old junkyard pick-apart LE in Vegas and grabbed the alternator and fuel pump for me since the guy was selling everything for less than 15 bucks a piece. I’m also keeping an eye on eBay for sensors that might come in handy.
  10. Wow I feel a bit embarrassed now for spreading bad info. Oops! I was told by many people that it was the front shaft that ran the oil pump in the Tcase, but if it’s the rear then I’m very happy! Means I don’t have to worry at all about running the hubs unlocked. Can we sticky that info somewhere so it’s not just buried in an obscure older thread? I do have a bit of an issue with the conclusion in that thread. Someone said that you have no more AUTO mode, it’s either locked for 4WD or unlocked for 2WD.... But that’s not really true. When the hubs are locked you should be able to use AUTO mode as well right? Because the front shaft is spinning already and the clutch plates can engage whenever necessary if slippage is detected. Obviously you can’t use this mode when the hubs are unlocked, but locked should be fine because everything acts the same as it was from the factory
  11. I’m very much looking forward to seeing any sort of footage you end up putting together. I’ve been too scared to pull the trigger on buying it until I know for sure that I can install the damn thing lol
  12. You’re right, the primary pump is run by the front shaft movement, but I don’t know how it works inside the Tcase when you’re in 2WD mode. Do you think it still needs fluid circulation even if it’s just making a direct connection to the rear and no transferring going on? Good point about the secondary pump because it’s supposed to fill in the gaps when you’re in reverse or going slowly. But I don’t know if that’s kicking in when the hubs are unlocked or not. It would make sense that it could kick in if the front shaft WASNT moving at all (it would detect a slow speed and engage the secondary pump), but if it still has some intermittent movement in the front shaft then I’m not sure it would kick in. Either way, I don’t know if it would be tripping the 4WD light based on heat. I think it has more to do with the confused readings from the wheel speed and slippage detection sensors. I think over a certain speed the system just gives up and admits that it can’t reconcile the rear wheels doing 80 while the front shaft is supposedly not moving at all. If it was a heat problem I’d probably not have made it very far if the case was overheating for the thousands of miles on my recent road trips
  13. Very interesting that you’ve never gotten the 4WD light. Have you tried driving above 75mph for 5 minutes straight? Usually this is when it happens for me. I’ll be going through Utah with their nice 80mph speed limits and blasting down the highway for a while and it’ll pop up on the dash. I think you’re right about the front shaft still spinning in 2wd with the hubs unlocked. I’ve suspected it for a while, that maybe there is still some friction in the hubs so that it doesn’t completely cut the CVs from the wheels, but still need to confirm by putting a camera under there. As for the gas pedal grinding, nope that’s not it. It vibrates even with my foot lifted in the air. I’m almost certain that my front shaft u joints are to blame in one way or another. Either there’s play in them or they weren’t properly fitted to correct run out (I’ve been told this is a bit tricky for this truck). Either way, if the front shaft is still spinning, that would explain why the vibration happens even with the hubs unlocked Anyway, I’ll shut up now because I dont want to steal this thread. My only reason for bringing it up was to make the OP aware of the weirdness that can happen with the AUTO Tcase
  14. Nope, its not supposed to damage anything. That’s the way you’re supposed to use them. When the hubs are unlocked you can ONLY use 2WD. If you need to switch to AUTO or 4Hi then you have to get out and lock the hubs first. Now notice I say “not supposed to”..... What I said about the 4WD warning light is true in 2WD with the hubs unlocked. You’ll be on the highway for a while and it will come on randomly and then be gone after you shut off the truck and start it back up again. There isn’t any damage as far as I can tell, but the light reflects the fact that the computer is confused. The problem is that I’m not really sure what happens when the computer is confused, its very possible that it could still be attempting to send power to the front intermittently even though it’s not supposed to in 2WD mode. If it is, then that may or may not be damaging for the TCase. Anyway my main point about the manual hubs was that you are going to have to keep in mind the possibility of strange transfer case behavior. I’d love to hear from others who have the AUTO case and see if they have had any long term issues show up with the manual hubs The good news is that I haven’t yet heard of a case of someone breaking their truck directly as a result of using the manual hubs, so overall I would still recommend them to save yourself some money on CV boots and gas. Just know that it’ll be a slightly uneasy peace of mind

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