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PathyGig12 last won the day on October 16

PathyGig12 had the most liked content!

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About PathyGig12

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    NPORA Fulltime Resident

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Silver 2001 LE 4WD
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
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  • Year

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  • Country
    United States

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  1. “Serious” and “hobby” are somewhat contradictory terms as far as I’m concerned. People take off-roading to be an overly serious endeavor when really we all just do it because of the enjoyment we can get out of it. Some people enjoy more intense technical challenges so they prefer to build something that will climb rock ledges all day, and others just want to be able to go down rough fire roads to get to the nice camp sites they couldn’t reach in their sedans. “Seriousness” has never come into my mind when thinking about adding something to let me have more fun on dirt. The only serious part is making sure things work as planned so you don’t get yourself stuck or hurt needlessly Have you ever been to a theme park and thought “I’m so damn serious about having fun on these roller coasters and games!” ? Kinda defeats the point Consider that there are people who lift their Subaru’s. Do I laugh a little because it looks a tad bit ridiculous? Sure, but honestly I respect them more than the dumbasses with the lifted JKs and no desire to leave the mall parking lot. I have never felt “limited” by the R50, even in its stock form. If you look through this place long enough you’ll find amazing pictures of these trucks doing things you’d never believe. Add on a few upgrades and a modest lift and they can be taken almost anywhere in the right hands. I don’t believe that anyone can call someone “less serious” about a hobby just because their idea of what constitutes fun is less extreme. A rock crawling enthusiast is no more “serious” about off roading than someone who enjoys hill climbs, playing in the mud, or running high mountain passes for the views.
  2. I find the phrase “serious off-roading” to not only be comical, but also nonsensical Think about it for a second. What percent of these “serious” off-roaders are going off road because they have an absolute need to do so? I suppose someone who does not own a home and lives in the wilds of Alaska or the outback might be considered a “serious” off-roader, but beyond that? The off-roading scene is a hobby for 95% of those involved, regardless of how “seriously” they take themselves. Sure, we all build our rigs for the off chance that one day we’re in genuine need and have to keep rolling no matter what. But most of the time what we’re really doing is adding stuff to help us get out of situations we put ourselves in purposefully for the fun of it. As for the Pro4x thing, I think it’s cool and all but I’d rather have my pathy. When I see another lifted 5th gen runner or xterra or wrangler, I never pay more than a seconds worth of attention because guess how many there are that look not just similar, but absolutely identical? Meanwhile I’ve seen MAYBE a couple of well taken care of pathfinders that are built tastefully for off-roading. The people doing stuff like us are having much more fun than the bro with his leased 5th gen who just slapped on a standard 4” lift, rear ladder, roof tent and blacked out the badges so he could feel cool when he takes his girlfriend and medium sized dog to the local trailhead on the weekend. Oh yeah and don’t forget the overlanding hashtags he can then add to his Instagram posts
  3. Agreed. As much as the starter is a pain to negotiate, I’d rather do it three times than do the alternator once I think if I had to recommend one tool to anyone considering changing theirs, it would be a long locking vascular clamp with a bent nose to get the bracket to the back of the alternator. If I had those it would have been much easier. But honestly the rest of the job sucks as well because you have to take off the fan, shroud, belts, idler pulley, and PS pump(just to get to the wiring even if you aren’t changing it also). Anyway, on to the next phase. I’m hoping to order a set of hitachi injectors soon and get started on the rest of the engine work I’ve been planning since the summer. I already have the plugs, knock sensor, valve cover gaskets, pcv valve, spark plug tube seals, and upstream O2 sensors sitting in my garage. Ive just been waiting to get the injectors before taking the intake apart. Debating also doing the thermostats but that’s another ugly job so might hold off. A few weeks back I changed the IAC valve so that’s one less thing to do. Idles great after the relearn procedure, and you could see on the old one that the corrosion was all around the motor so I’m glad I swapped it out when I did. Who knows how much longer I had before it went
  4. Update time: This past week I’ve been going ham. I decided to tackle all the awful jobs all at once because I was getting a low whine from the power steering pump so I went and replaced it with a brand new hitachi unit and swapped the alternator as well while I was in there. Then yesterday I changed the starter because every winter I get a few days where the solenoid sticks and won’t engage for a few tries, so I figured it was prudent to get it changed out ASAP to make sure I didnt get stuck anywhere when it finally stuck permanently. It’s hard to say which job I hated more, but I’ll say this. I want to beat the crap out of whoever designed the alternator mounting system. Theres a small “L” shaped bracket with a nut welded onto the back but the bracket isn’t physically attached to anything, it just rests against the back of the alternator, so to bolt up the new alternator you have to wedge your hand through a mess of wiring harnesses and coolant hoses and around motor mounts and brackets, and finally use the tips of two fingers to hold the nut up to the back of the alternator while your other hand reaches around blind to turn the bolt. Needless to say I was bleeding by the time I managed to get it on and I’m shocked that I didn’t tear anything. As if that wasn’t bad enough, remounting the power steering pump is an exercise in extreme patience because you have to pry the damn thing back into position since the mounts are so tight, and every time you have it almost lined up to bolt through, either the front or the back won’t be perfect and you’ll have to try again but end up overcorrecting and need to go back. And of course it’s all done blind unless you drop your phone in there and take a picture to see, which is what I ended up doing. All in all I ended up logging 14 hours in the garage Fast forward to yesterday and it was time for the starter swap. This job was the one I was dreading the most because of the all the horror stories about how difficult it was, but I have to say it wasn’t nearly as bad as I built it up to be. The only challenging part was reinstalling the new unit because you have to clear the solenoid terminals past a bracket that gives you very little room to move. I didn’t have to remove anything from the truck though, the front diff stayed in place and so did everything else. I even managed to get it past my missing link bar. The key to reinserting the end of the starter into the bell housing (the hardest part) is to have the thin metal gasket in the right orientation so that you can still rotate the starter because if it’s misaligned the part that’s 90 degrees to the rest of it will be hitting on brackets and blocking things Im hoping to never have to do these jobs again, everything about them is just pure suck
  5. When you have a minute, I’d love to hear more about this. Are you suggesting that motion in the Tcase is translating to the front shaft through a fluid friction interaction which keeps the front spinning even when the clutch plates are disengaged? Id just really love to see the inner workings of the Tcase and what happens under different conditions to demystify this whole thing I can say that the last couple times I’ve been off-road I’ve had the hubs locked and the truck in 4Hi and noticed every once in a while I’d get a steady 4WD light on the dash If I was doing a tight turn or reversing awkwardly. It also happened once in 4low. As soon as I restarted the truck, the light was gone. Whether this is a damage related issue or maybe an oil temp issue, I have no idea. But I’ll say this......it never happened before I put the manual hubs on so I can’t rule out the possibility that some kind of damage is being done to the clutch plates
  6. The problem with the electronic system is we don’t even understand how it works exactly. All evidence so far points to the fact that the front drive shaft continues to spin regardless of whether the hubs are locked or not, so I’m not entirely surprised that accidentally activating 4Hi didn’t harm anything. With the shaft still spinning it means the CVs must still be spinning inside the hubs, and that means giving them power would still not “break” anything. Eventually it would probably throw up a light because of the wheel speed sensors though The reason the front shaft still spins is not entirely understood, but I’ve been told it’s because of the clutch plates being partially engaged. So either it’s an issue with the TCase being confused, or maybe just normal operation that the clutch plates never disengage fully. Either way, it makes manual hubs much trickier because there’s no telling what’s really being done to the internals. I’ve had my Warn hubs for the last 15K miles and no real issues except a weird vibration that may or may not be related but sometimes goes away at high speeds and stays gone for the rest of a drive, which seems suspiciously like a TCase thing
  7. Most people would recommend the electronic setup for the AUTO mode that gives you all wheel drive with an open center diff. It’s fantastic for bad weather so that you can still turn without plowing through corners. But the flip side is the truck can get very confused if it’s in any other setup than stock because there’s so many sensors involved in running the TCase. Personally I don’t find that the electronic system is worth it. I’d swap in a manual in a heart beat if it were easy. I don’t trust a system I don’t fully understand and which has so many potential failure points. Same with the transmission, I’d prefer a manual Edit to add: My current plan is to add a rear air locker so that even if my 4WD system stops working on a trail, I’ll be able to use the locker to make the rear more effective and allow me to make it home
  8. Holy crap I think that’s it. Takes me back man! Looks a lot less scary now though, I’m sure you can do it easily
  9. Pronghorn trail was a good one. There was a nasty steep downhill somewhere along the way, can’t remember where exactly. All I remember was being 9 years old on a TTR90 scared @!*%less when my wheels locked up on dirt covered rock and I slid all the way down. Good times
  10. Was considering doing all of mine red but I’m too lazy to take them out. Especially the fronts
  11. When I lived out there Gorman was the go to spot for dirt biking and wheeling. Great place but it can get pretty crowded sometimes
  12. She’s a beauty, I’ve always loved the red Pre-facelifts
  13. Pretty sure Etsy has them. I might be wrong but the user making them should be “pathmaker productions”
  14. Thanks for weighing in guys, I appreciate the responses. I guess this week I’ll try to throw on the new one and hope for the best. Being in Colorado and it’s almost winter, I don’t like the idea of bypassing the throttle body but I could always do it as a sort of seasonal thing maybe? That would at least double the life of the new IAC
  15. Hey thanks man, that’s some good info there. It does leave me a bit confused though. Number one, is this issue isolated to the nissan VQs, or do other engines run coolant through their IAC valves as well? In either case, why would the part be made of something susceptible to corrosion by coolant if it was designed to run this way? I’m not talking about the motor by the way, I’m talking about whatever part of the valve is being corroded and allowing coolant to get to the motor. And on top of that, does this mean that regular cleaning of the IAC wont help to stop the issue with corrosion? Number 2, would a gasket change offer the same protection as swapping the entire part? Is the gasket keeping the coolant out or is it the metal structure of the unit that keeps the coolant from getting into the motor? If so, which gasket? Surely not the one around the edges that keeps air out?

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