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97NissiR50

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    stock / 355,000km
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    1997

Profile Information

  • Location
    Alberta

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  1. I realize this question is roughly 7 years old now, but for anybody with a VG33E combing through this thread after experiencing similar issues - start by making sure there are no vacuum leaks, then you'll most likely need to move on to the TPS (throttle position sensor). If the rough idle is intermittent or only after high idle from a cold start, chances are you need to adjust the TPS or replace & adjust TPS. Here is a good instructional I found while trying to remedy my intermittent rough idle... https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/nissan/3.3L/how-to-test-the-idle-switch-1
  2. Bought a '97 R50 Pathfinder because I needed a cheap beater to fill in a vehicle gap for a few weeks and it was the cheapest with a running engine at $700 CAD. After acquiring the vehicle I began to research it and was happily surprised in learning about the durability and capability of the truck which, along with availability of [relatively] low cost parts, inspired me to sink some money into it rather than drive it into the grave. Roughly one month $6,000 later, and I only slightly regret my decision in that I may have been better off starting out with a slightly better example. However, after completing the list below, I am finally at an impasse which can not be resolved with a YT video or my trusted "call a friend (mechanic)" lifeline and thus my search for info on the world wide web has landed me on this forum. So here I am; trying to figure out how to lower my subframe, so I can remove my oil pan, so I can replace the pump attached to it. Thanks in advance for all the experience and information shared, it's sincerely appreciated. -- in order: change oil/filter change air filter replace drive belt, A/C belt, p/s belt replace front brake pads service frozen piston, driver's caliper clean & paint calipers service and paint rear brakes bleed brake system sandblast and paint rims replace lug stud new tires (Kumho AT51) replace inner & outer bearings+races, front hubs MacGyver-tempfix to stop rust spot above windshield leaking water pull, clean & solder gauge cluster to recover speedo + tach (tach is still twitchy - lose/frayed wire?) replace CV axles (half shafts) replace front struts replace front stabilizer links replace front stabilizer bushings sand and paint front stabilizer replace rear lower trailing arm bushings replace rear upper trailing arms replace rear stabilizer links replace rear stabilizer bushings sand & paint rear stabilizer replace rear coil springs repair bumper stops replace shock tubes replace panhard bar remove rust, sand, acid primer and paint all remaining components & exposed frame + strategically placed rock guard MacGyver-tempfix large rust hole in driver's rear fender using 4L plastic jug + JB weld + rock guard (solid w/ no leaks yet) service, clean & paint rear diff (small piece of bearing found, replace soon) service transfer case (a bit noisy but not too bad, replace soon) service transmission with Lucas treatment (light slippage in R/1st/2nd) service front diff replace timing belt replace oil pump seal replace cam seals *oil pump gasket blew 60km later on first highway trip, thought I had f'ed up a seal * -- while waiting for new pump: clean intake plenum & lower manifold ports check & clean spark plugs replace fuel rail feed/return hoses clean injectors clean valve train + flush oil drain lines w/ air clean header intake ports vacuum cylinders replace valve cover gaskets replace intake & plenum gaskets replace water pump replace thermostat -- removed front diff & stabilizer bar but wasn't enough to get oil pan clearance... rented a hoist, pulled all the nuts & bolts I could find attaching subframe to frame including engine mounts but the subframe didn't move... last month and a half in a nutshell.
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