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chrisfromthelc

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chrisfromthelc last won the day on July 9

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About chrisfromthelc

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1997 4WD Pathfinder
  • Place of Residence
    Scottsdale, AZ
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1997

Profile Information

  • Location
    Arizona
  • Country
    United States

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  1. I planned to get tint regardless. It would help slightly, but even in one of my other well-tinted vehicles, it's still no match for summer AZ sun. On an average summer day, it's nothing for me to measure 160+ degrees inside the cabin of that vehicle. I know the system is working as designed. The problem is that it just isn't designed to handle the temps we see here in AZ. The majority of my driving is low speed, around town, driving, so it's something I'm very motivated to fix.
  2. @hawairish I see I'm not the only one having issues with the AZ heat. Did you ever do anything (auxiliary fan?), or are you just still suffering with it? I had to drive through stop and go traffic the other day, and the A/C just could not keep up. Everything checks out fine on the system otherwise. FWIW, my much newer 2010 F150 has the same exact issue when it hits about 108-109 here. When it's getting airflow (highway driving or even 45MPH roads/streets), it's great. It's just the no airflow in stopped traffic that is killer.
  3. Measuring and "it should fit" are fine, but there are no substitutions for first hand knowledge and actual pictures of one mounted.
  4. I came across a set of NRC9449s on eBay from Lucky 8 for a crazy good deal (less than $80 shipped for the pair), so I got them. Too bad I can't put them in for quite a while, but I didn't think I'd come across that deal again any time in the near future.
  5. Has anyone seen this particular roof top tent on an R50? I know some others have other tents, but I'm asking about this one in particular since it's a larger size than most of the ones out there. I've seen pictures of it on Cherokee XJs, and while it's large, it doesn't look too big for the vehicle to handle. I'm just not sure if that's a good comparison to the R50 roof, area-wise.
  6. Yeah, I think I'll set up with a standard screw-on antenna base, and get something like this that's easily replace if stolen/lost/broken.
  7. A quick eBay search reveals one, but you could probably do a bit of digging searching for ecu vs ecm and come up with more.
  8. I'm pretty sure your build thread is where I got the idea from! I might just end up ordering a 1/2" and 1" spacers for the front...start with the 1/2" and see where it sits after a while. I'll be replacing everything (shocks, springs, etc) at once, so I may not even have to go 1". I'm also concerned with flexing the CV axles too much, so starting slow with the 1/2" might be the way to go.
  9. An update to this...it worked just fine for a few days, and then crapped out again. The tach board was pretty burned from the previous owner trying to fix it, and a trace was broken that I tried bypassing, but I guess it was too far gone. I grabbed another gauge cluster from eBay from another 1997 and will transplant the board over when it arrives.
  10. Just be sure to use a low setting on your iron. That board is pretty fragile and easy to burn through the traces on. I dropped mine down to 15 watts, and it was still almost too much. For most things, I run it at 30 watts, just as a comparison.
  11. S. Scottsdale here. If you see a dark blue one with a beat up driver door in the area, that's me!
  12. I can't tell you exactly what to do since I don't have yours disassembled in front of me, but there may be some cold or broken solders on the board. First, though, I'd try slightly loosening and re-tightening the screwed on the back of the main cluster (the ones through the flexible circuit board) that go into the tach. Many times, that's all it is. If tightening the screws doesn't work, you'd need to reflow those solders on the back of the tach board, and I'd recommend a pretty fine tip because of the tightness quarters on the board. Soldering that board is a bit tricky if you aren't experienced, so proceed at your own risk on that. Bad solders are not often visibly bad, so I would just do everything. I got lucky in that the previous owner tried to repair it and actually burned part of the board, so the issue was very apparent when I opened it up. I hope this helps!
  13. I don't have direct experience with snorkels yet, but I do with real cold air intakes (where the input is on the "outer edge" of the engine bay) on other vehicles. Those do make a difference, albeit minimal. A snorkel is closer to a CAI than just deleting the airbox is. So, maybe there's some minimal power advantage from pulling in outside air, although I think the ram-air like advantage you might have with a true, far shorter CAI would be lost since it has such a long route back to the throttle body. You'd really need to do some experimentation to know for sure, but that's my hunch. I don't plan on doing deep water crossings like that myself, but with the dust out here in the desert, being able to easily put a pre-cleaner on it and keep it up out of the dust cloud (somewhat) is an attractive proposition to me. Plus, I just think they look cool.
  14. When I was fixing my tach issue yesterday, the dumb cat weaved between my legs, tripping me, and I dropped the guage cluster and cracked the corner of the lens. If you have an extra that you've scavenged gauges out of, or is toasted otherwise, I'm interested in your junk gauge cluster housing. I would ideally like one with no scratches, but could potentially work with one that has minor scratches (no gauges). Let me know what you got!
  15. The previous owner of my rig put one one (with a throttle body spacer). It's not a true cold air intake...just basically removed the factory air box and used an adapter with a cone filter. It's probably actually worse than the factory air box given our already scorching air temps here (only 104ish today, which is a tiny bit cooler than usual for this time of year). Having the engine heat on top of that can't do good things I'd think. I'm just going to stick with it until I go full snorkel, though. If I weren't planning on that, I'd probably pick up an original air box and reinstall that. The open filter does make a nice, almost turbo-like hiss when you get on the throttle, though...

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