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oneninty8d

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oneninty8d last won the day on July 22 2020

oneninty8d had the most liked content!

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About oneninty8d

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    QX4
  • Place of Residence
    Burbank
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    Other/Unknown
  • Year
    2002

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern California
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

208 profile views
  1. Has anyone run into an issue where they can't start their car until they run the 5 seconds on 5 seconds off sequence?? From the owners manual "The Infiniti Vehicle Immobilizer System will not allow the engine to start without the use of the registered Infiniti Immobilizer System key. If the engine fails to start using the registered Infiniti Vehicle Immobilizer key (for example, when interference is caused by another Infiniti Vehicle Immobilizer System key, an automated toll road device or automated payment device on the key ring), restart the engine using the following procedures: 1. Leave the ignition switch in the ON position for approximately 5 seconds 2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF or LOCK position, and wait approximately 5 seconds 3. Repeat step 1 and 2. I haven't been able to start my car without doing that for the past week and intermittently for the year. I've been keeping the key about as far away from my cell phone and wallet, but seems like even if I keep them in completely different pockets I still can't get my car to start. Has anyone else dealt with this?
  2. If you can get the hatch open another way, open it up and spray the locking piece with WD-40.
  3. Free campsite outside of Hatch, Utah Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Utah! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Ah, well, when I got it the sunroof was stuck open, and I guess it had been stuck open for a while cause the whole drain area was clogged. So I had to clean out the drains at the top cause they were filled with dirt and what not. Cleaned those out, but then I resealed the joints where the plastic parts meet with permatex black rubber sealant. That was the passenger side, the second one I did. The first side looks like... well, it will get the job done in the interim. I’m not sure if this is what you’re dealing with, but it hasn’t rained yet, for the real test. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I didn't lift it personally, the previous owner did. From the documents he gave me, looks like he installed AC coils and Rancho XL shocks in the back and KYB GR2 struts in the front. Not sure about the springs, there are no spacers at the top or bottom, but a spacer in between the coils of the spring? I wouldn't think it would be cv angle being too steep though, as I believe he told me it was only lifted an inch in the front (I don't know what the stock ride height is, but it's 34" from the ground to the top of the fender in the front). I'll check the bushings, there's nothing really loose on it, per se, but from the docs looks like the previous owner didn't drive it for about a decade so there's a bunch of dry rotted rubber.
  7. Huh, well, I checked the shaft going from the transfer case to the diff and the U-joints seemed fine. I bought new cv axles, was that what you were talking about? I drove it today and I think it might have something to do with the suspension, since it's not constant.
  8. Hi everyone, I have done a lot of things to my QX4 that I need to put into a build thread (cv replacement, valve cover gasket, bearing repack, rack and pinion boots, manual locking hubs, sunroof leak repair). There's one thing though that I can't figure out, and it's an intermittent vibration coming from the front right wheel when the cv axle is engaged. I have gone through and checked the cv axle install, repacked the bearings, checked the needle bearing, nothing changes. When I installed the manual locking hubs it went away when the cv isn't engaged, but came back when it was. I would think if it were a bearing or suspension it would be constant right? I checked the diff fluid and it was a little low, but there was fluid in it and it's not leaking. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks!
  9. I finished this a while back, but I successfully got that screw off. Used a 10mm wrench and help from my friend. Once I got it off, I realized that I didn't need to take it off in the first place. What was holding it on was the rock hard PCV valve hose .
  10. Thanks! A socket adapter might do the trick too. I've bought a couple different tools for this job, none of them have worked. I have been trying to do this job by myself, maybe another (smaller) set of hands would help. I've been going back and forth about removing stuff from behind the engine. At first, I didn't really think that would solve the clearance issue and also the hoses are a bit brittle so I was wary of pulling them apart if I could help it. But now as deep as I am into this, I am just going to replace everything I can so I don't have to do this a second time! Haha I know what you mean about mechanical terms! I've been reading this forum for about 2 months picking up different things. I've actually dropped a 10 mm socket 3 times now (fished it out with a magnet the first 2 times, couldn't see it the third time, I'm sure I'll find it when I finally get this apart). Thanks for your help/advice, I'll be sure to post pictures of this when it's complete!
  11. I may or may not shed a tear. I have found a youtube video showing exactly how in theory it should be taken out. This guy uses a closed 10 mm. The motor isn't in the engine bay, so clearance might be an issue. I'll have to see tonight.
  12. Yeahhh, one of those phillips head screws broke and the head was just rolling around in the hub . I might just hit up a pick your part and see if I can get a whole assembly. The tool is just a specialty socket correct?
  13. Good call! I honestly didn't even know about that issue. I guess I'll just add it to the list of things I fix. I am thinking about doing a build thread when I get done with all of these fixes. I've done CVs on both sides and this is in progress. I need to do upper oil pan, steering rack, lower control arms, pull apart the trailing arms, repack the hub on the driver side and install manual locking hubs. Just a bunch of stuff the previous owner ignored haha.
  14. Ah, well, I guess I’ll keep plugging away on it then. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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