Jump to content

UPDATE - The host suffered a "Catastrophic Hardware Failure" (*specifics not shared) on 01/13 and the "latest available" backup for the website and database were restored.  At this point they have been unable to recover any later versions of the database.

     We are going to give them another 72hrs to pull off a miracle and find something later than 05/21 before we fully move forward with normal forum operations.  Maybe we'll luck out, but to be perfectly honest, it's not looking good.

     It is still recommended that new members wait to register for the time being, as any new accounts created before our final decision on a path forward is made, may not exist once this is taken care of. This is also true for new topics, posts, status updates, profile & account changes, etc.


As always, we appreciate your patience as ask that you hold on just a little longer.

-NPORA Mod Team

*Updated: 01/17/2022 6:54PM PST


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Dbot last won the day on November 4 2020

Dbot had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2001 4x4 Auto LE (gold color) + 2002 4x4 Auto LE (Bronzed gray)
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Finding new trails on Google Earth, wheeling said trails. mountain biking

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Dbot's Achievements

NPORA Regular

NPORA Regular (2/5)



  1. My memory is so fuzzy, that it's very possible I'm wrong, but I thought you could access the bolts the hold the lower oil pan on the vg33 like you can with a vq35. Might be tricky for a hand grab if you have thick wrists but magnets and whatnot should be able to grab the missing piece if it's in the upper oil pan. You'd have to make sure you don't warp or gouge the lower oil pan during removal or you're gonna have to get real serious with the rtv or order a new pan.
  2. I’ve been hanging around r50 forums and groups since I got mine in 2019. Haven’t really seen much chatter about reliability issues with the atx14a transfer case. Like any part, there’s gonna be somebody with a failure here and there but the atx14a isn’t even going to be in the top 15 issues for this platform. I have 237k miles in the clock and mine has held up to the abuse just fine. Just change the fluid at the intervals the manual specifies and if you submerged it in water or mud, just clean underneath really well so wire harnesses stay clean. In other words, don’t let the transfer case hold you back unless it acts up on a test drive
  3. This is brilliant! I’ll definitely be trying this the first chance I get. Thanks!
  4. What I'm working with: 2002 4x4 Lifted 1 year ago Reused struts and strut hats 1 yo OEM strut bearings 1 yo AC coils 1 yo Camber adjust bolts 1 yo Inner tie rods 1 yo outer tie rods 1 yo steering rack bushings 1 yo ball joints Wheeled all summer on those fresh components and everything was great. My last wheeling sesh was August. Early 2021, I developed a popping/crunching sensation in the steering. I assumed it was the ball joint so I replaced both ball joints. The issue remained unchanged. For troubleshooting, I set the front end on jack stands and prompted the noise by having somebody turn the steering wheel. Best judgements of sound and feel by hand led me to the tie rods. Struts didn't have much of a output on feel or sound, nor did cv axles or ball joints. This led me to do the following: After replacing ball joints (which were actually still good btw) I replaced the following this month: CV axles Wheel bearings (inner and outer) and both sets of races Inner tie rods Outer tie rods seemed really solid, almost like new and the grease boot didn't see compromised so i reused them. I took it to the shop for an alignment. The same guy that aligned it last summer aligned it again and said the alignment procedure was smooth and typical. After getting it from the shop, Everything feels straight and aligned but the popping/crunching is still there. I can create this by low speed tight turns such as cutting the wheel to pull into a parking spot or follow a drive thru path. It seems that the low speed + hand over hand turning of the steering wheel causes this. This does not occur if you drive straight or if say you cut the wheel for a slow turn and hold it steady at an angle. It's the action of turning the steering wheel that causes it. What's weird is this occurred months after I last wheeled it. The only abnormal abuse my front end takes is that there is a 3" step transitioning from my driveway to my street. This transition is always taken at turned angle whether backing out or pulling in. (not good for steering components). My street is a main street so occasionally my approach home from the speedy street is a bit hot which causes strut top out with those old struts on new AC coils. I guess i'm leaning toward aiming the parts cannon at the strut bearings and strut hats. Anyone have any thoughts on this before I drop another $100+ on parts and labor?
  5. He has a first person camera angle video of him driving a second gen Xterra and there is a written article either by him or his sidekick Roman that discusses the first gen Xterra. It’s very apparent that he doesn’t know much about either one to start with and he picks up on the basics about each one while doing a quick bit of research for his content. Basically mocks the name a bit for being a try hard name, talks about how mundane vibes are that it gives off. Talks about it it’s crude suspension, talks about skid plates, body on frame design and simplicity. It then clicks in his mind this is the stuff that matters and he talks about it in a “you know what, this is a cool vehicle hidden in a plastic panel disguise” kind of way ?. I don’t think he cares much for Nissan suvs for whatever reason
  6. It’s not making any noise that I’m aware of. As far as how long I want it to last? Beyond 300k. It’s more a pride thing than a money thing with this one. Lots of sweat and blood in the rig. If we all go by noise instead of mileage, I’ll leave the chains alone. As for the water pump, I suppose I could swap that when I’m behind the radiator for the alternator since you don’t actually have to remove the timing cover to access the pump.
  7. 2002 Pathfinder 235,xxx miles (acquired by me at 206,xxx) Main maintenance items: Replace leaky valve covers replace alternator Secondary maintenance items: Spark plugs Pcv valve intake gaskets pcv hose Valve cover breather hose serpentine belts I’ll be doing those items within a few weeks The two items I’m wondering are: Should I take this opportunity to replace the timing chains, and tensioners? I can’t find anything that specifies a mileage to replace that. Some say those last forever but the severed timing chain on my 2001 r50 says otherwise. if there’s an interval that I’m missing somewhere that says 100/200/250k miles, I think I should do it now while valve covers are off. the second question is how long does the water pump last? I can replace it with the timing chain cover on or off. Anyone know an interval for water pumps?
  8. For what it’s worth, you can swap seat fabric/leather between passenger and drivers seat. Just need hog rings, hog ring pliers and a box cutter. Looks oem if you take your time
  9. Anecdotally I purchased one autozone cv axle over the summer (boot split a month after lifting hence my replacement). Autozone axle looked really solid and beefy. The same day I installed it, I drove 45 minutes to a trail via highway. Wheeled for 20 minutes then hit a mud hole with headlight deep water. Immediately after coming out of the water, I could hear the wet cv boot squeaking with each rotation. It popped off and kinked where it was lopsided and rubbed the control arm every rotation. Not sure how mud water did this but whatever. I bent it back and put it close to how it originally was. I haven’t done any true wheeling since then but I’ve done thousands of road miles and a few hundred snow 4x4 road miles. Cv axle is still intact despite a compromised boot.
  10. Rode stock suspension for one year without bad boots. Then lifted with ac coils and warn hubs. Drove one month and split a boot. Half month later the other boot split.
  11. Hi r51 gang, I’m familiar and active with the r50 platform but I’m pretty new to the post 2005 stuff. I’m probably going several hours out of town to the big city for another attempt to get a worthy r51. One of the lowest mileage r51s I see is an s model. While I don’t need LE stuff, SE is the trim package Id like to own. Does anyone know what items I can swap over from a LE or SE (power seats, heated seats, fog lights etc) via my local junkyard or eBay? I’m hoping some of the stuff is prewired and plug and play. I got the idea for this question because my dad has had great luck swapping LT trim components to his ls trim Chevy. Everything was prewired and compatible
  12. Take what I say as a grain of salt but check the radio part numbers. They can look the same but have different wiring even if they came out of the same year vehicle depending on what month it was made.
  13. Hit 230k miles yesterday. I broke a trans cooler line on a rock wheeling this summer which sprayed the trans until empty. A month later the trans started acting up so I swapped it. I guess that’s my fault. Engine is rock solid though
  14. One thing I’d suggest is hitting up nissanpartsdeals.com. You can look at every single part and part number for each month of production for every year. You can put in a vin and it pulls up that particular factory build. This would be good for looking for any differences around the engine crank between auto and manual. Also would work for the intake stuff too. Also, 2001 and 2002 use throttle cables. Not sure what the cutoff on the throttle cable is but I know my April ‘00 (2001) has the cable and my November ‘01 (2002) . Additionally, one can look at the engine timing critical components such as timing sprockets, crank sprockets, cam Phasers, upper oil pan, timing chain cover, cams, flywheel, flywheel sensor and stuff all change part numbers and designs ever few months during the production. This stuff will be your biggest headache for engine swap compatibility. As far as the difficulty of turning wrenches goes, It’s not easy. I’ve pulled an engine before in salvage (haven’t installed yet). Took me 11 hours to get the trans out, then it was another 7 hours for the engine. Could probably go much faster with a second set of hands while in the comfort of your own driveway. As far as other Nissan engine swaps go, it’s not any easier than putting in something from any other car manufacturer. That’s how different the other vq35 and vq40 engines are. If you could somehow know for sure you don’t have rod knock, replacing the timing chain guides, chains and water pump will be much easier and cheaper than a new engine. You can also run a compression test, if it’s bad, you can consider pulling the engine and heads to put in a new head gasket.
  15. I went two months of driving with a finicky reverse. When it warmed up and the weather was warm, it wouldn’t engage reverse immediately. Sometimes it would engage after a few seconds, other times it had to blip the throttle. I added a trans cooler and changed fluid but it made no difference. I just went ahead and swapped the trans. I learned to park facing downhill so I always had an out

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...