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Dbot

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About Dbot

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2001 4x4 Auto LE (gold color) + 2002 4x4 Auto LE (Bronzed gray)
  • Place of Residence
    Missouri
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    2002

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Usa
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Finding new trails on Google Earth, wheeling said trails. mountain biking

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  1. I don’t think the rear main seal would leak overnight since from experience I removed my rear main seal and upper pan seal with it, without even draining the oil pan. Not a drop spilled out through the opening. You probably have residue that leaked when driving that settles and runs down the back of the block https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsTQm6L1QIoAhOJnmgyLOzuaHmGG-A
  2. I’ve wanted a Xterra since like 2010 but pathfinders are so much cheaper. What’s cool about the second gen Xterras is that yes, they have factory skid plates, body on frame design, rear locker on pro-4x, 260hp and for the real dedicated wrench turner, you can titan swap the suspension. Titan control arms, cv axles and rear axle which gives it a lift, wider stance and more suspension travel. And you can also swap in a Titan VK56 V8 with some coolant hose modifications, wire harness conversion and an ecu flash have the meanest sounding Xterra on the block.
  3. When i accidentally turned the dial it was one of those "oh crap, what am I doing?" moments, so it was only engaged maybe 1-3 seconds. But no noises other than the actuator engaging like normal. Didn't feel any different either. But again, it was low speed, driving straight on rainy roads just a few feet for a few seconds doesn't give me much time to compare anything. Had I left it engaged, would something mess up or start making noises? Idk, but i have my doubts.
  4. Electronic here: 227k miles and no issues. I’ve been running manual locking hubs since around 224k or 225k. No issues. Accidentally briefly engaged 4hi, and auto for a second at least once with hubs unlocked. No noises or lights on the dash happened.
  5. My 2001 4x4 auto has this or a similar issue. around 45mph and above, if there is a slight downhill (where no throttle is needed to hold speed) or any type of downhill, releasing the accelerator induces this "rocking" feeling. It's subtle but it's like its smoothly transitioning from engine braking to coasting about 1 transition per second. It varies the load on the engine as the tach fluctuates up and down as much as 500 rpm per transition. This can be induced at lower speeds than 45mph on the same downhill by turning off overdrive. However, 1st gear and 2nd gear speeds don't appear to have this issue as I can coast hilly and flat neighborhoods without this issue occurring. This issue is not intermittent. Additionally, at speeds above 45 mph, the sudden jolt can occasionally happen. It happens so fast it's hard to interpret what happens. It happens in the blink of the eye. Either the engine does a extremely quick stutter or something in the drivetrain releases or something brakes/binds up. Its accompanied with a thump or thud sound which could be the transmission, rear end backlash or u-joint backlash. This is more likely to occur at faster speeds. It usually happens at stable throttle inputs (not actively accelerating or decelerating) but can happen once in a while at moderate accel or decel scenarios. I have yet to find a way to reproduce this and seems entirely random and doesn't happen every time I drive above 45mph. Previous owner said the transmission was repaired at one point, but didn't divulge any other details. I suspect there could be electrical issues as the headlights dim in with the rhythm of the turn signal when they are in use (this does not happen on my 02). Also, it sat in a field for 6 months before I bought it and discovered wire loom chewed by a rodent. Also, I had accidentally touched terminals with a backward battery (ford battery with opposite poles) the day after i bought it. Lastly, it may have a partially clogged cats which may affect vacuum readings. Perhaps someone else has a similar issue we can find a common condition with.
  6. I’ve read in the factory service manual that the transmission uses 3rd gear as limp mode. But I think there is supposed to be a light in the dash to accompany it though. I would assume towing would yield higher temps than 150f. Maybe the temp should be checked at the trans cooler line where it feeds into the radiator?
  7. The transmission would be the easy part. If it’s 2wd to 2wd you’re good and 4wd to 4wd you’re good. Just swap the main bell housing... you don’t even need to put a new trans in there unless you want to. But as far as electronics go, I have a feeling that’s gonna be a can of worms judging by my experiences. Power window switches change from year to year so I can’t imagine what kind of hidden surprises exist with climate control, seats, air bags etc.
  8. Sort of. I've wheeled on stock wheels and highway tires before. 90 percent of the time I was in 2wd. I'd stick to dry stuff and stay off really loose stuff like deep sand. If you do that, I think you'll find the traction a non-issue and your main obstacle will just be ground clearance for big rocks. If mods are your thing, the right lift, tires and a limited slip should outperform most stock 4wd rigs.
  9. That’s odd that you had to drive the hub onto the spindle. I remember to had to tap it with a small hammer a few times to center it but then i could shove the hub all the way back by hand. Maybe 5 pounds of shoving force was needed once it was centered. Got any panhard bracket pics?
  10. In addition to camber. Eventually brake line length becomes and issue and the panhard bar geometry becomes an issue in the rear. From what I’ve heard, 2.5” is good to align. I did 2.0” aligned with one camber bolt on each strut. You could get even more adjustment (in theory) with another camber bolt so maybe you could go 3.0 inches
  11. True. After fumbling around in the junk yard last summer, I can confirm there are 3 face lift grill logos. 99.5 -2001 SE grill emblem. Same style as 99.5 - 2001 LE emblem but has a different curved profile on the back side of the emblem. You could make it work with a small amount of creativity 99.5 - 2001 LE grill emblem. Same as above except curved profiled on the backside 2002+ grill emblem. noticeably different outline and the backside curved profile doesn't match either of the above. However, R50 buttercup on here has a 02+ emblem on a 99.5-2001 grill from what I've seen.
  12. Same exact thing happened to me. One listing on eBay for OME coils (No image on listing). I bought them, they contacted me the next day and said they were damaged and refunded me. Listing removed and about a day later another seller had the that part number listed (also with no actual product image). I wonder if it’s like the sisterhood of traveling coils that the sellers dump off on other sellers. But yeah, I went with AC coils and I love them
  13. These dipsticks suck. One thing I’ve done to remove doubt is put a bubble level on my running board and use a jack and wheel choks to set the vehicle level in my driveway since it has some rake. Then I do my readings. I’ve ran overfilled by a quart for a year without issues. I’ve driven a week about quart low with no issues so adjusting fluid levels may not help any issues
  14. I’ve wondered if the valve cover thing is a supply/demand issue. I see many more of the fwd cars with 3.5 engines on the road than I see r50s around here so it would make sense for those to be on the market. But as to your question, I haven’t heard of anyone using a fwd/Z/g35 VQ valve cover.

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