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Dbot

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About Dbot

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2002 Rescue adoption Spring 2019
  • Place of Residence
    Missouri
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    2002

Profile Information

  • Location
    Usa
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Thanks for the help. I didn’t even consider those suggestions. After driving it around 20 miles those issues and codes went away. If it comes back, I’ll start with those ideas
  2. List of suspects: Alternator diode main timing chain off a link or two Bank 1 (us passenger) cam phaser messed bank 1 (us passenger) timing chain stretched Bought it with a broken timing secondary timing chain and broken secondary timing chain tensioner (both on bank 2). Replaced those broken components. When I first pulled off the timing chain cover it was so sludgy and crusty I couldn’t see timing marks on anything other than the key on the crankshaft. In my mission to find the timing marks on cam sprockets (so I can find top dead center) I removed the 4 hex bolts on the bank 1 cam phaser and turns the engine by hand. Later i found the timing marks under sludge. As for realigning the cam phaser, it appeared to only reattach in 90 degree increments to the cam sprocket. With trial and error I got it to the position where it didn’t crash the pistons with the valves when I turned the engine. This is suspect because the issue is a new code that the vehicle didn’t have before I started working on it and it’s on the bank 1 side where this phaser is. And factory service manual says to not mess with those. the other possibility is maybe it’s off 1 tooth on the cam sprocket. My timing method goes like: turn crank sprocket where shaft key is lined up with the 10:00 timing mark on block. Drape the main chain over the top of the upper sprockets, aligning colored links with the timing marks on upper sprockets. Center the the upper cam sprockets where they are symmetrical with their timing marks. Pulled chain over water pump , and pulled chain under crank sprocket . I put tension on the driver’s side (US) when doing this. Then installed the tensioner on the passenger side after chain was in place. The crank sprocket had a timing mark on it BUT THE CHAIN did not have a special link for the sprocket alignment . When the chain installed without the tensioner there is enough slack in the chain for the chain to jump forward or backward one chain link on the sprocket. Since jumping one link is a possibility, I wanted to mention that. the secondary timing chain that I didn’t replace is one bank 1. I could visually see it had a bit more slack than the brand new chain I put on bank 2. But again, this code didn’t show up until after I tore everything down. The alternator got quite a bit of power steering fluid dumped on it during disassembly. Maybe a bad diode letting non smooth current into the system that the cam position sensor is picking up? i swapped the cam position the sensors with my other 3.5l r50 and it had no effect on the issue. Engine seems to start ok but idles kind of rough. Usually about 750 rpm. Engine seems to handle revs ok in the driveway. Occasionally it stalls after a minute of two of idling. But it starts back up easy. Haven’t got the drive it yet because I don’t want to have it stall on me without license plates. Engine has a ticking noise too. anybody got any gut feelings on this? Also looking for other things I can check before I resort to replacing the other chains and bank 1 cam phaser so let me know if you have any ideas. thanks much.
  3. I replaced 1 of the 3 timing chains. The drivers side secondary timing chain was replaced because it was broken. The other chains got used again. I did fill the engine with oil and crank it over (no fuel) for a minute until that tensioner stopped slapping. After it tightened up under oil pressure, it turned over by hand really smooth so I put it all together. (Which it’s not running rough so maybe it’s not fixed)
  4. 2001 pathfinder Bought it real cheap for a fixer upper. I ended up having a broken secondary timing chain on the drivers side (US) [[[[[[[[[[[[context]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] tore into the engine and replaced the broken secondary timing chain. From memory, the cam sprockets up top were lined up with the lighter colored links on the secondary chain as the Haynes book says to do. The primary timing chain had two yellow links. Those lined up with the marks on the intake cam sprocket marks. I had those yellow links centered summetrically. The crank sprocket shaft key lined up with the Mark next to it on the rear timing cover. However the book said there should be a lighter colored link on the main timing chain that lines up with a mark on the cam sprocket. There was no apparent link down there. The only apparent special links were the two yellow links up top. So my fear was “what if I’m off by one link on the crank sprocket?”. I pulled the drivers side (us) of the timing chain as tight as I could because normal engine operation would be pulling that side of the chain and connected the chain to the crank sprocket. Then I installed the main tensioner. [[[[[[[[[[[[[question]]]]]]]]]]]]]] So I’m theory, I have it timed up but when I turn engine by hand or electric starter, the chain has varying tightness as it goes around. This varying tightness is enough to completely compress the primary tensioner and relax it. (There is little to no oil In the engine therefore no oil pressure) This has me worried. Is that normal? I just assumed the tension would be constant. heres a video of it in action And it even does it by hand too
  5. Thanks! Somehow that thread didn’t show up in my search, I’ll give it a read. I certainly plan on replacing iacv gasket and and power valve screws first thing if i buy it
  6. I have the opportunity to buy a 2001 with vq35 however the motor is bad with bad compression in two cylinders. The salvage yard has a 2004 SE auto with real low mileage because of a wreck. I want this engine for the ‘01 body if possible. I think the throttle is electronic on ‘03 and ‘04 whereas ‘01 and ‘02 have regular throttle cables if I’m not mistaken. (I plan on using the ‘01 intake with cables to prevent issues). That’s the only difference as far as I’m aware of. Salvage yard computer system says the ‘04 engine is NOT compatible with a ‘01 body. (I won’t get any warranty if I try it). Could I put the ‘04 SE auto 4x4 engine into a ‘01 SE auto 4x4 if I use the ‘01 intake and plenum on top of the engine?

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