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Dbot

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Dbot last won the day on August 20

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2001 4x4 Auto LE (gold color) + 2002 4x4 Auto LE (Bronzed gray)
  • Place of Residence
    Missouri
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    LE
  • Year
    2002

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Usa
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Finding new trails on Google Earth, wheeling said trails. mountain biking

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  1. Am I the only one who pulls out the three 17mm nuts from the ball joint?
  2. For daily driving I keep the following: 2x Lightning data cables 1x Micro USB a data cable 1x 16 gb usb flash drive (10 gb free after music is put on) 1+ Pilot G2 1x Ronson Jetlight lighter 1x chinese Led flashlight 2x 5 amp phone usb chargers 1x Safety glasses (work) 2x cloth face masks 1x 130 Pc Pittsburgh tool set 1x jumper cables 1x first aid kid 1 qt 5w30 1 qt trans fluid 1x skinny oil funnel 2x 9mm bike axle skewers 2x Custom velcro straps 50 ft paracord 30 ft recovery strap 2x clevis shackles 1x Receiver shackle 1x Receiver hitch pin 1x tire guage Assorted fuses 2x Diapers 4x ratchet straps 1x Harbor freight air compressor When I go wheeling, I bring a "kit" which includes 1x old cv axle with torn boot 2x clevis shackles 1x 30 ft recovery strap 1x 10ft tow chain 2x 5ft tow chain 3x chain connector links 2x chain end hooks 1x pliers for chain link cotter pins 1x Hi lift Jack (with a permanently attached clevis on foot) 1x hardware store shovel 2x Walkies 1x GM bottle jack 1x 12mm socket (cv axle) 2+ extensions (cv axle) 1x ratchet or impact gun (cv axle) 1x allen wrench (cv axle/warn hub cover) 1x 17mm sock (ball joint) 1x snap ring pliers (cv axle) Extra water, snacks, toilet paper, grocery sacks/trash bags/ziplock bags
  3. Summer update: Sadly no big updates because my Lokka order has been mia since early April but I've definitely been wrenching quite a bit. Found two rare bronze gray part outs the same week here locally. Sadly, both had destroyed hoods and bumpers, but I was able to grab a mesh grille, a back door and some other odds and ends. Fun fact about this grille is that it only exists in this color for the year 2001. One of the dudes parting out his wrecked r50 had some new in box Power Stop Z36 rotors and pads and a $400 250 Amp Power Bastards alternator. He insisted that I acquire them from him. I offered $60 for the alternator and brakes and he agreed (Hey, I told him to sell them for more online). The alternator will come later when I get around to fixing my valve cover leaks but in the mean time, I replaced wheel bearings and swapped rotors. The steelies kind of hide them but for the price I paid for the steelies last year and the brakes this year, who cares. Performance wise, I haven't noticed any difference in my city driving or wheeling. There was a break in period that gave them a softer bite when they still had the machining cross hatching on them but now that it's gone, they feel like stock. I haven't tested them on mountain highways or with highway towing yet, but I'll give a bit more of a review when that ever happens. For months, I've been driving with a popping noise in the front end. Link that story here: So basically, it wasn't the steering components like i though it was but rather the control arm bushing. So I've installed a steering rack in one form or another on a R50 for a total of 3 times now. I threw in some Polyurethane bushings from 4x4parts . com. The bushings look neat, but don't really add all that much to the feel of the steering. I figured the my gushing valve cover leak won't kill these in the meantime. I've managed to find some spare time in all of this to modify a piece of metal to be a missing link. It's a 1.5" x 1.5" 3/16 steel square tube from ebay. Cut with an angle grinder and drilled. Unfortunately, it's not tall enough to be a mid skid support. I'm going to have to get another 1" or 1.5" square tube and stack it in order for a flat mid skid to clear the oil. pan. Anyone every tried jacking up the truck from a missing link? I'm assuming that's a bad idea... More potential projects planned such as valve cover gaskets/pcv/water pump/alternator/pulleys/belts. Might make an attempt at a mid skid with the angle grinder too.
  4. They look similar to rear springs at a glance, but It's a front coil though. @iJayBT Note the how the spring sits at an angle on the struts.
  5. It’s tilted like that. The top hat will have an angle too. see here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsTQm6L1QIoAhNlONK-6M5jp6z6aAg
  6. Ok, issue resolved. I like to get in the habit of documenting solutions for others in the future. So the issue was the driver's side control arm bushing. It was the front bushing. This was very odd because I've never had a bushing pop before. I've had them creak before on other vehicles but popping is new to me. If I thought popping/clunking would ever be possible, I would have assumed it would be with suspension articulation and not steering related. The popping did transmit sound and shock down the entire front end of the subframe, but didn't really transmit it to the other end of the control arm though. I have two r50s, so I decided, I'd swap things around piece by piece until I found it. Ended up swapping the whole rack and tie rod assembly from my 2001 over. After that didn't make any difference, I swapped over the driver control arm. I've put about 50 miles or so on it and haven't heard any popping. This has been quite the rabbit hole for my 2002 and now, I've refreshed the front end of my 2001 since I've confirmed my suspicions that the tie rods and ball joints were shot. Also donated my 1 year old rubber rack bushings from my 2002 to it also. I'm definitely not looking forward to paying for two new alignments while the barrel of the parts cannon is still smoking but I digress.
  7. The Toyota guys are going to get a fantastic member. PathyDude17 has definitely an asset to the r50 community.
  8. I had the rack isolated from the wheels a second time and was able to replicate the popping and crunching sound. So that should eliminate anything to do with the strut, ball joints, bearings and tie rods. Pulled a steering rack from a clean 2001 qx4 and swapped it to my 2002. I bought brand new rack bushings, and used those, torqued everything down properly and moved my fresh tie rods over to the new rack. It still pops, even when the tie rods are disconnected from steering knuckles. I’m now suspicious of the transfer gear box above the steering rack. If the gear box was damaged, it could feed the popping harmonics into the steering rack since it’s right there. Nissan says the replacement for this is ~ $800 and is from production dates 08/2001 thru 07/2002. I could only find one replacement in salvage that fell within those dates but it’s broken. Could I use a transfer gear from another year say like 2003? I just want to make sure spline counts and steering ratios are the same. Hoping somebody might know a bit more than I do on the subject. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsTQm6L1QIoAhO5qgOxyrgRgCnpt8g https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsTQm6L1QIoAhO5p05neQUfu45RBYw
  9. 9447 coils are the same as 9449 coils just softer. Still way stiffer than stock though. Perhaps “downgrade” the coils to 9447 and swap to 5100 shocks? I’m running 9449 with 5100s and it rides much better than stock in my opinion. Now the front coils are the harshest thing I’ve drive before. Even more so than torsion bar vehicles. Problem with the front is that it seems that OME and such can’t make coils fast enough so there is a shortage. You might just be stuck with what you have for the time being
  10. I own both versions. The auto version, I've owned over two years. 28k miles put on it. Wheeled it hard on trails, drove it hard for pizza delivery. The other one I've owned almost 2 years and it has done light wheeling once and done about 10k miles around town. The automatic (atx14a transfer case) has never failed me. I've had the 4x4 light come on for a few blocks driving around town once but that was it. Everything drove fine. On the trail, I've wheeled it in 4hi and 4lo and I've had the 4wd warning light come on a couple times but It would always give me 4lo and 4hi when I asked for it. Light either went off by itself or turned off when I selected 2wd. The manual (tx10) has never given me a warning light but when I engage it on wet pavement to quickly pull out in traffic, it doesn't want to go back to 2wd when I tell it to. I sometimes have to drive a block or two before it switches back to 2wd. Kind of makes a whirring noise. Haven't been motivated enough to look into it. As a former pizza man, the ATX14a was amazing in the the rain and snow. Just set the dial to automatic and forget. It always gripped one the oily, rainy roads when I'm heavy on the gas and of course snow driving was a breeze too. I've driven the chevrolet's version of automatic transfer case and it sucks compared to this one. It's slower engaging 4wd when you ask for it and if you use automatic mode, it toggles between 2wd and 4wd in a jarring fashion but not with the Nissan atx14a. The atx14a also is supposed to have a lower crawl ratio than the tx10 when in 4lo.
  11. Looks like the issue is the steering rack or linkage. With the tie rods disconnected, it still pops when you turn the wheel. The driver inner tie rod twitches when it pops but the rack doesn’t move so it’s like the internal part of the rack is screwed ip possibly
  12. This is brilliant! I’ll definitely be trying this the first chance I get. Thanks!
  13. What I'm working with: 2002 4x4 Lifted 1 year ago Reused struts and strut hats 1 yo OEM strut bearings 1 yo AC coils 1 yo Camber adjust bolts 1 yo Inner tie rods 1 yo outer tie rods 1 yo steering rack bushings 1 yo ball joints Wheeled all summer on those fresh components and everything was great. My last wheeling sesh was August. Early 2021, I developed a popping/crunching sensation in the steering. I assumed it was the ball joint so I replaced both ball joints. The issue remained unchanged. For troubleshooting, I set the front end on jack stands and prompted the noise by having somebody turn the steering wheel. Best judgements of sound and feel by hand led me to the tie rods. Struts didn't have much of a output on feel or sound, nor did cv axles or ball joints. This led me to do the following: After replacing ball joints (which were actually still good btw) I replaced the following this month: CV axles Wheel bearings (inner and outer) and both sets of races Inner tie rods Outer tie rods seemed really solid, almost like new and the grease boot didn't see compromised so i reused them. I took it to the shop for an alignment. The same guy that aligned it last summer aligned it again and said the alignment procedure was smooth and typical. After getting it from the shop, Everything feels straight and aligned but the popping/crunching is still there. I can create this by low speed tight turns such as cutting the wheel to pull into a parking spot or follow a drive thru path. It seems that the low speed + hand over hand turning of the steering wheel causes this. This does not occur if you drive straight or if say you cut the wheel for a slow turn and hold it steady at an angle. It's the action of turning the steering wheel that causes it. What's weird is this occurred months after I last wheeled it. The only abnormal abuse my front end takes is that there is a 3" step transitioning from my driveway to my street. This transition is always taken at turned angle whether backing out or pulling in. (not good for steering components). My street is a main street so occasionally my approach home from the speedy street is a bit hot which causes strut top out with those old struts on new AC coils. I guess i'm leaning toward aiming the parts cannon at the strut bearings and strut hats. Anyone have any thoughts on this before I drop another $100+ on parts and labor?
  14. He has a first person camera angle video of him driving a second gen Xterra and there is a written article either by him or his sidekick Roman that discusses the first gen Xterra. It’s very apparent that he doesn’t know much about either one to start with and he picks up on the basics about each one while doing a quick bit of research for his content. Basically mocks the name a bit for being a try hard name, talks about how mundane vibes are that it gives off. Talks about it it’s crude suspension, talks about skid plates, body on frame design and simplicity. It then clicks in his mind this is the stuff that matters and he talks about it in a “you know what, this is a cool vehicle hidden in a plastic panel disguise” kind of way . I don’t think he cares much for Nissan suvs for whatever reason
  15. It’s not making any noise that I’m aware of. As far as how long I want it to last? Beyond 300k. It’s more a pride thing than a money thing with this one. Lots of sweat and blood in the rig. If we all go by noise instead of mileage, I’ll leave the chains alone. As for the water pump, I suppose I could swap that when I’m behind the radiator for the alternator since you don’t actually have to remove the timing cover to access the pump.
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