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Strato_54 last won the day on August 10 2020

Strato_54 had the most liked content!

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69 Excellent

About Strato_54

  • Rank
    NPORA Fulltime Resident
  • Birthday 09/09/2003

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    My mother bought it back in 1997 brand new and has since then kept it. ive been in this car since i was born and she has now given it to me since i am of age to drive it. the car only has 90.6k kilometers on it which is not very common from what i can see. this car is next to bone stock besides the bumper my dad and I built when i was young together. Its the standard 4x4 SE which is probably the best car i could ever ask for. I know this car better then most people since ive been in it since i was born.
  • Place of Residence
    Shuswap Region
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    British Columbia
  • Country
  • Interests
    Playing with my pathy as much as i can. Welders apprentice. Love building things and fixing them. Good knowledge of computers

Recent Profile Visitors

704 profile views
  1. I did a little research on the universal ones and it looks like i can just heat it with a heat gun and mold it to fit my original pillar. i guess this is the only option then if i wanted to install one.
  2. Actually i just found this Ebay link , would this just be a double side tape mount then? Sorry if this seems stupid i just don't know how these mount
  3. I recently just bought an oil pressure gauge, but I want to also get an oil temp gauge too. In the summer it gets pretty smoking hot here and living in the mountains, so I would like to monitor my temps pretty closely. I've tried looking for threads on what works for what, but there is nothing that I'm looking for. I've come across the "universal" styles but they all cant be the same fit. Where can I get a 2 or 3 gauge pillar mount for my black interior 97 that doesn't block the tweeter? And if possible one that is made for the R50 with all the clips in place where they should be. If I have to do some work that's fine, ill just do what ever is needed to make it fit. But if these universal ones will work, how do I go about making it fit properly and not look like a hack job? Ones preferably in Canada or on a site that ships to Canada would be great.
  4. I'm 6'4 and can almost comfortably lay in the back with the seats down no problem. Though if I want to lay straight out like a plank then I need to lay diagonal, just like said by PathyDude17 above, but that's a very minor issue. I have yet to actually sleep a night in my R50, but I have tried it to test what it would be like, really not that bad at all.
  5. Looks better then the current gen, but its still a cross over. probably would've been a lot cooler of it was RWD but sadly its not. Although that 9 speed does make me a bit happier to see instead of the disgusting CVT. They did get my excitement up when they started reposting some r50 builds on Instagram, but now I'm not as excited about the pathfinder. That's not to say I'm upset about the new Frontier. That body style has been the same since what, 2004? To see it actually look like a modern truck really makes me happy. Can't wait to see one in person or on some YouTube channels.
  6. To my knowledge, if you have 2 12V batteries both rated for 100ah and you put them in parallels, that would then equate to 200ah at 12V. in many RV's that's how the batteries are setup, not too sure on the use case for having 6 volts in series though. when I build one of our teardrops for someone and they want 2 batteries this is how we wire them. but same goes for deep cycles in terms of over charging them. many modern Travel Trailers use a DC to DC charge controller to charge the Deep Cycle batteries. although you can run a 12V power wire right from the starter battery to the trailer, it will end up over charging the battery thus boiling off the internals rendering it useless. In my personal trailer I don't bother with a controller, I just run a smart isolator and call it there so I don't have to worry about my starter battery draining over night to my faulty deep cycle (happened too many times). I'm up in BC and have only had a set of batteries go once in my 6.0, but then again those batteries came from Calgary before I moved if I remember correctly. Even too I've had batteries sitting for weeks on end with out them going dead. maybe about a volt but have yet to pick one up completely flat strange enough. even after being used a bit.
  7. I mean, it could be something seizing still, but maybe its something with the brake boost. maybe something in the booster isn't right? I cant really think of anything other than a caliper seizing up. I'm no professional so maybe someone can chime in on how to check the booster and master cylinder parts, but knowing how they work and that it uses intake vacuum, that's what I think of off the bat.
  8. only time ive ever had a negative experience with another driver was i was merging on to the high way in my work truck (05 f250 powerstroke crew cab long bed with welder and equipment in the bed) which is a super super heavy slow truck from a stop until the turbo builds. and as i was merging a car came around the corner and i had plenty of room to where it was no where near a cut off, but they decided to not slow down and pass me blaring the horn on a no pass blind corner. other wise its just the typical dodge on my ass or a BMW for going 5 over.
  9. and the solution is spitting on it! i went down to the garage to check fuses again for the 3rd time and still nothing. i found the 20A fuse in the passenger side engine bay box and i tested that one with a tester and volt meter with no sign of failure. i tried pulling the fuses in and out a bunch of times to try and clean the connection and no result. so i licked the pins on the fuses pulled them in and out a few times with some sparked coming from the pins and low and behold it fixed the problem. though i still have a problem with the battery dying and being at a really low charge as the on dash voltage gauge was sitting around 10 volts so i think it still needs a battery. lesson here is even if you check something more then twice, it still could be the problem.
  10. ok well i didnt swap the battery but i did stick a battery on the truck and no change. then i pulled the battery charger off and it was running at 14.2 for a bit then climbed down to around 13.8 which to me is still very normal. I can confirm how ever that the rear defrost is turning on as i can see the voltage drop and the lights dim each time, still no indicator, and AC does not kick on by the looks of it either. but then i turned it off and let it sit for a second and after about 30 seconds it sat around 12.3 12.2. but i had my USB voltage meter in the always on socket. when i cranked the truck again with no charger or anything the voltage dropped down to 9.0, i let it run for a few more minutes then killed it. once i let it sit with no key in the battery went back down to 12.2, i fired it again and cranked at 9.7 volts. to me cranking should be ATLEAST 10.2 MINUMUM. not too sure what the pathfinder cranks at since the socket turns off when i crank it, but i would like to say its no where near 9 volts, and my 6.0 only cranks at 10.5 and thats after the glowplugs finished firing, pumps, FICM and all. With no change, even though i didnt pull the battery i might just rip apart the dash next week since this think needs some work. although the 6.0 batteries are the same CCA as this one (890 CCA) so maybe when i bring it up there ill try one of those, but other wise its wiring diagram time...
  11. So I just checked all the fuses again that are under the glove box, and nothing. i turned the key on and the front heat stopped working but when i tried pressing the rear defrost it looked like it was coming on but the indicator wasnt turning on. i could see the lights dim when i turned it on but no console indicator. i did how ever plug in my cig lighter USB and voltage thing to see what it sat at, key off 12.1 volts, ket set to ON was around 11.3 11.2 not running. to me that seems a bit low for just key on, but i know it has to power all the modules and the fuel pump. i have a strong feeling this is battery related and tomorrow im going to pull the battery and swap either my pathfinders battery, or one of the 2 in my 6leaker since its our work truck and is just sitting at our shop in the cold with a battery maintainer. EDIT: if swapping the battery changes nothing then ill rip apart the dash and start looking at the wiring schematics.
  12. Ok I’ll look through the service manual later when I get home. As for the terminals they are clean and are very tight. I have noticed that the in dash voltage gauge is a bit lower then it normally is and the windows are definitely slower then I remember now having driven the car again for the first time in quite a while. Granted the battery is quite old and looking through a couple of forums when these have a battery problem, not so much alty I guess they do really weird stuff which it has done like ABS SLIP and VDC lights flashing as I’m scanning for codes then the 4X4 dial not working then all the sudden working. I might try and swap my pathys brand new battery just to see what happens when I fire it.
  13. My mom has an 08 Armada SE and the screen has stopped working, the heater and AC controls have stopped working, but the air is still on, it just cant be changed. the rear heat controls do work though how ever and can be changed. its only the front where the heat controls are frozen and the radio doesnt even show the nissan logo when the key is turned on. i tried to pull codes from my BlueDriver OBD2 reader and nothing came up at all. it did have codes for the front right TMPS sensor being bad which i know has been bad for a really long time now. ill check it again to see if that code came back, but that telling me theres a code leads me to believe the BCM is still working. i tried checking a couple fuses and found nothing unless i missed one that happened to be bad. we have been having battery troubles where i just kinda dies. it hasnt happened often, but the other day my mom went to pick up my brother from school, turn off the truck and went inside for a moment and came out with a dead battery. hasnt died since but could it be related? when its running i only get 13.3 V which seems low to me since my pathfinder charges around 13.8-14.2, although my 6.0 PSD charges at 13.6 or 13.7 so that 13.3 feels kind of normal but probably not. any and all info is helpful. Thanks.
  14. My 97 with the 5sp 4x is only sitting at 92,500 km which is something like 57,000 miles. the only things ive noticed go wrong on it majorly is the EVAP solenoid which i still have to fix since its not giving me problems just a light, cracked cooling fan, stupid no seal problem with the radiator. other then that basic oil coolant timing belt stuff which i just did in august for the first time in its life. it turned out i had a small cam leak that i had suspected was a valve cover but was not the case. it wasnt poring oil just dropping about the size of a quarter or 3 every other day but i still had to do it while i was in there. this thing hasnt been beat on very hard, sometimes its fun to launch it from a stop and pop the clutch here and there but other wise its just been real loyal to me. Since my mother is the first owner i can speak on behalf of its entire lifetime in our hands. even after being severely over heated once a bout a year and a half ago its been like new with no problems what so ever. very reliable, capable, fun machines. like said above in PathyGig12's post, i do the same with keeping the rpms down. when on the highway trying to get up to speed from either a stop or merging, ill shift around 4500 but when im cruising ill keeping around 3k or 3500 then let it cruise anywhere between 2k and 2500. any higher on flat ground makes me feel off. if im on a hill ill leave it at 3k since it just doesnt have the go to keep going any lower in a gear that isnt 1st or second, or 4L.
  15. i get the basic clamps with the 2 bolts on the side and the sandwich plate. These ones here are what i'm talking about which are very easy to use and install. I use them on my trailers all the time when, my personal and the ones we build for customers that require a deep cycle.

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