gloer
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Posts posted by gloer
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On 4/5/2021 at 12:53 PM, AR97Pathfinder said:
This weekend I installed a new rack and pinion.
How complex was it? Mine is starting to leak a bit, shop wants $1850 so that's not happening. I'm either going to do it myself with help of a mechanic friend or if it is considered complex or risky I'll look around for another shop.
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Just now, R50JR said:
You have a timing belt. The 3.5 has a chain. There would be no noise prior to it exploding if that’s a concern for you.Thanks, nice to know there is no noise as a precursor to death. I've got a weird rattling noise and was thinking it might be timing belt related, guess I can rule that out. I'm still going to get the belts replaced as a proactive step. Going to get a shop to do that, unfortunately I don't have the spare time time to do it myself.
Someone should create a website where one can upload recordings of a noise and provide conditions when it occurs, then have it compare against other recordings and give suggestions. Match.com for weird auto noises.
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Also, it is a timing belt not a timing chain right?
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What does the noise sound like?
I've got a noise that's progressively getting worse, sounds like something rattling inside the engine compartment, only at a certain RPM(s) but RPM range when I hear it is growing. My guess is it is timing chain.
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A sfd does not reduce CV angles. Your current geo would stay the same if springs are unchanged.
So the best option is...SFD and stock springs? Assuming one is after a bit of lift (2-3").
Edit: Loaded question as "best" is totally subjective and personal. "Best" for me is: 2-3" lift with least amount of impact on reliability of vehicle and parts.
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According to Rockford "HEATis the number one cause of boot failure!" (sic)
I'm on ACs, split boot within months of putting them on, no problem previous 24 years without manual hubs and stock height.
I'm going to be getting good at rebooting until I can figure out how to do an SFD, or convince/pay one of the AZ NPORA guys to do it for me
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If you have rubbing, instead of cutting the fender liner out (which will fill with mud & debris) consider deforming the plastic with a heat gun.
If you have a shop put the tires and wheels on for you, explicitly tell them the advice from @RainGoat before they mount. Otherwise, when you pick up your vehicle you may find they took the easy path, cutting the fender liner. That's how I ended up with holes.
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50 minutes ago, Leo_Allesch said:
I just talked to a local 4 wheel parts store that I was going to get my tires and wheels from, and he said that the -19 offset would push the wheels out too far and wouldn't work. I was surprised that he said that, because I thought that the go to offset was -19 in order to clear the strut. Has anybody had any problems with -19 offset and 3.75 backspacing? Looking to buy these PXA7069-5883 ProComp 15x8.
I have the PXA7069-5883 Procomp 15x8 on my 96 SE. No problems.
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Here are a couple of pics showing the only trimming I've done to date, both show the same trim location just different viewpoint. I still get rubbing when reversing at full turn, but rarely run into that so motivation factor not yet high enough.
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Looks great! Did u have any problems with the 15s fitting?
No problems at all with the 15s, I had OEM 15s originally. Minor trimming, including inside the wheel well. Can take a picture of the wheel well handy work tomorrow if you like.
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Mine (96 SE) has 32115015C BFG AT TA KO2 and PXA7069-5883 ProComp 15x8 with ACs up front, and just put on Warn hubs. A little trimming needed up front, not too much and none in the rear.
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Sorry for not being very clear.
When I installed the ACs I bought new KYB struts, KYB strut mounts and KYB strut bellows.
During the initial installation I found the rubber seats were destroyed (front and rear) and no one in town stocked them. So...I ordered those and that lead to round 2 disassembly/reassembly. I tried to make my own "spring silencers" - failed.
After that I still had a weird noise, thought maybe it had to do with not replacing the "spring silencers". So...I ordered those. Replaced those during round 3 of disassemble/reassemble.
I started with zero knowledge. Now, 4 months in to the lift process I've learned a lot. I could probably disassemble/reassemble the struts blindfolded now. I'm happy about that, since I embarked down this road to learn more. Was it efficient? Nope. Cheap? Nope. Fun? Yep
I'm going to get the OME struts and probably get the OEM strut mounts and replace the KYB strut mounts. Like RainGoat, I don't want to cut corners. My offroad is most often to get to a search or rescue mission, most often in the middle of the night.
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As mentioned, I'm no pro mechanic and with the spring compressors you linked I had zero issue disassembling/assembling the struts myself (three times so far, soon to be four). I used those with the AC coils. No problem. I wouldn't want to rely on a shop to do the assembly. Follow the details in the other posts here, you should have no issues doing these yourself.
KYB GR-2 vs. Excel-G, I also looked into that originally:
As for strut mount failure, defer to others but personally I had KYB Excel-G with OEM mounts for a few years with no issues with stock tires and wheels pre-lift, plenty of off-road (nothing super technical).
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What I can say-they’ll fit, and it will likely be the nicest riding AC front coil setup you can get.
That's enough for me, I can't tolerate the KYBs anymore. If the OMEs don't reduce top out enough I'll go the strap route. I'll document what I can through the process to get some kind of facts known based on KYB vs OME with ACs.
Off to talk to the better half about the OMEs. If you don't hear from me again it didn't go well
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Ome struts are struts only. Nothing else is included, same as kyb strut
Confirm this is a true statement @R50JR -> the Ome struts have longer throw (not sure if correct term?) and as such don't top out with AC coils
I think that Leo is, and definitely I am, looking to confirm is true. Once confirmed, I'm going to propose these to my wife
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Here's where I have questions I believe that if you lift in the front with AC coils and upgrade to KYB struts you will experience topping out. The only solutions to this that I have seen are to buy the expensive OME front struts or adding limiting straps. Is topping out so bad that it's worth spending the extra money to buy the better struts, or are limit straps a safe a reliable option for fixing the problem.
I have the AC coils and KYB 335015/16 struts, with 32x11.5x15 BFG AT TA KO2 tires and ProComp PXA7069-5883 wheels. With this combination my top out is not tolerable (still startles me from time to time) and is next up on the to do list.
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On 17 Mile Road, AZ
Front end def needs a different bumper
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I saw a post about coil compressors, and they said not to use standard compressors, and to use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP2CDJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S2gXDbGPWBH66. Is this the best option, or is it not necessary (and what is the best option).
That's exactly the compressor I used and have now disassembled and reassembled my struts 3 times. Can't imagine doing that with a compressor that is any less capable.
I did the work you're planning. Originally was going to get a shop to do it but encouraged in this forum to do it myself. I'm far from being an experienced mechanic, it was relatively easy and I learned a lot. I'm thankful for the encouragement.
I put the 9447s on mine, very happy with them.
If I were to go back in time and give myself advice: get new rubber seats, etc. and save yourself from having to/wanting to replace those a few weeks later.
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I searched this forum for a post about these, for longer than I'd like to admit.
Someone posted about some kind of CV boot covering that wraps over the regular rubber CV boot giving an added layer of protection.
Can someone reply with a link to that post?
They are something like these, but I'd like to read the post on this forum as there was a link that the OP used.
https://sealsavers.com/product/proseries-cvsavers/-
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@AR97Pathfinder one of the reasons I've disassembled and reassembled a few times is that I didn't have the rubber seat replacements (55034-0W000) on hand the first time. The originals were pretty ineffective. I also ordered new coil spring insulators (55034-0W005) after seeing the condition of the originals.
As I posted earlier in this thread, the coil spring insulators are stupid expensive for what they are ($36 OEM). But reading about what they do, seems like they help reduce noise of some kind and decided I'd get them. While searching for VW parts I found and bought these for half the price. They went on fine, but the larger size from Tein would probably have been better. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I6JN5ZO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
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8 hours ago, R50JR said:
That is actually the new style. The struts you have are the old style. Yours technically have more travel than new ones.
That's pretty wild, now I know why you were surprised I was able to get that style.
@AR97Pathfinder when you get your struts just do a small test like mine in the pictures above, it will be very clear if the spacer will fit or not. If it does fit definitely use it.
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32 minutes ago, AR97Pathfinder said:
Is everything riding fine?
Just curious as I’m going to be doing this job soon on my truck. And will be using the KYB top hats.
I saw another members strut failed from not using it?It has been riding great for well over 1.5 months and rode great tonight, I had to go off-roading immediately after reassembly.
It looks like the KYB struts are (now?) machined differently and no longer require the spacer. Here's a pic that was sent to me showing the old style. Note the difference in length of the machined section after the chamfer, and the length of the threaded section. I can understand why on these ones if you didn't include the spacer you'd be in a world of trouble.
On the KYB struts I bought recently, the machined section is about equal to the old chamfered section plus spacer.Let me know if you have any questions. I've now disassembled and reassembled these four times.
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6 hours ago, AR97Pathfinder said:
But the OEM strut mount has one. Thats odd
Did you put it back together without it?
Correct, the spacer was not used. It is not possible to get the nut on when the top hat is included. No idea why the spacer is included.
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Struts are off and disassembled. I still cannot see how these spacers possibly go on these struts. You can see in the pictures, that with the spacer, even without the top hat, the nut doesn't even get fully threaded. This is the third time I've tried to find a way that these spacers can work. How can these possibly go on?
The struts are KYB 335015/16 from RockAuto.
EDIT: Chatted with @R50JR and come to the conclusion the spacers are not needed on these struts. I have no idea why they are included in the packaging.
AR97Pathfinder's Build
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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Was it the 36R0788 like you have listed above? Where did you get it?