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gloer

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gloer last won the day on January 8

gloer had the most liked content!

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About gloer

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Stock (for now)
  • Place of Residence
    Arizona
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    46+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1996

Profile Information

  • Location
    Anthem, AZ
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

190 profile views
  1. The struts are coming off for disassembly Saturday. Going to get the spacer in there. If I can't figure out what's going on, I'll be posting with pics asking for advice.
  2. Thanks, really, I truly appreciate you guys speaking up. Really easy to scroll on by and not care to take the time to help. THANK YOU!!
  3. Damn, if both @RainGoat and @R50JR say it is so, it's definitely got to be done. I'm still not sure how they work, but you two are trustworthy sources so will not doubt that it has to be done. Searching for @zakzackzachary's post to see wtf is going to happen to me, not having much luck so far. If anyone can post a link that would be appreciated, in the meantime will continue to search.
  4. 96 SE auto transmission issue. When cold (driving for the first time in the day) it doesn't shift properly, almost stalls out if accelerate hard and then come to a stop shortly after, like it is stuck in a higher gear and won't shift down as expected when slowing down. Cold means not having been driven yet for the day. The issue is the same whether it is 5F or 60F, if it is the first time driving for the day. This issue has become progressively worse over the past couple of years. Mechanical issue or a fluid issue? Best way to start to diagnose and/or resolve?
  5. I have a 96 SE. I used the KYB top hat. I didn't use the spacer, it wasn't possible to use it and get the strut nut on. I tried. My mechanic friend tried. I was determined to use it based on what I read on other posts and feedback to this one. I checked, double and triple checked, even took the strut off and disassembled/reassembled after running without the spacer for awhile to be sure. I had the struts replaced earlier at a reputable shop, they also used the same KYBs that I put on. They also didn't have the spacer in. Maybe the KYBs come without the spacer welded in because in some cases they aren't needed?
  6. Fwiw, I had 31x10.5x15 on my 96 SE before lifting, on stock rims. No rubbing. I just put these on https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/pro-comp-69-series-vintage-15x8-wheel-with-6-on-5-5-bolt-pattern-flat-black-7069-5883/_/R-BKBQ-7069-5883 with 32x11.5x15 and a 2" lift. I've had to do a bit of trimming.
  7. Yeah, that's probably a better approach. The OEM insulators are super thin and any tubing that bends to the required radius is likely going to be too soft to last. Good idea you have to wrap something in spiral fashion. I've got the old coils, I'll give that a try. I'm going to be taking apart the front struts for the third time now that I have the OEM rubber seats for the tops. @R50JR thanks for helping to convince me to buy the tools and do the lift myself! Like you suggested, I now have the tools and I'm closing in on McPherson strut rebuild expert status.
  8. UPDATE: The DYI insulators worked ok, not great. If you're going to try this, try to get something thinner. Despite heating the DYI versions still had a tough time staying in place given the coil radius.
  9. Posting in case someone else runs into the same...I need to replace the spring insulators on each end of each coil, 55034+A. They're ~$27 each, need 8 of them (two per coil). Over $200 for a cheap piece of plastic/poly sleeve. Screw that! Went to Home Depot and I'm using some tubing instead and saving ~$220. I don't mind spending money where it is worth it, but cannot convince myself these insulators are worth it. Top is the old insulator (it's old, thin poly), OEM $27 each , clear is the tubing I'm going to use to manufacture 8 of these for $1.20 each.
  10. New shoes ordered. Went to Desert Rats Offroad today, getting 32x11.5x15 BFG All Terrain T/A KO2s on Pro Comp Series 7069 15x8 wheels (https://www.procompusa.com/wheels-product-details.aspx?pt=101508&lc=pxa&pqq=2336-1558-1551-1557&pqa=13671-8275-8056-8268&apn=PXA7069-5883_
  11. After lift. Next up new shoes, the 31x10.5x15 look tiny now. The rear was in need of help:
  12. Thanks all for the tips and hints. Got front and back both done yesterday in ~6 hours, including lunch break. It went really well as we knew what to expect based on your feedback. The clamshell spring compressors absolutely make this install a breeze. They are WELL worth the $120. https://www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Macpherson-Spring-Compressor-Interchangeable/dp/B01DP2CDJU Camber bolts definitely needed, but didn't realize it until we got the wheels back on. Will address this in the coming week when new tires (and maybe wheels) are put on. Moving up from 31x10.5x15 to something bigger and either wheel spacers or new wheels. The only "surprise" were the rubber parts, I didn't have replacements on hand and of course none in stock at the dealer. I have ordered and will take the front and rear springs off again to put on the new rubber parts (e.g. coil spring insulators 54034-0W010, 55034-0W005, etc.). Not sure how critical some of these are, but ordered and unless someone here says they're not worth replacing I'll tear things apart and put on new ones. Front went from 32.75" to 35.5" Rear went from 33.25" to 36.25" Will post pictures in a bit. Thanks again for all the advice!

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