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pairrothead01

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Everything posted by pairrothead01

  1. Thanks for the info... Have the Haynes book and totally agree on its usefulness......although some of the illustrations are hard to see due to low print ink. What you describe is what everything I read said. I was lucky though.....had a neighbor who let me borrow an inspection cam. Was able to find it sitting about 2 " down inside....use a copper wire with a hook and fished it out.....had to grab and twist some with a long nose to get it completely out.....definitely had to replace after that.....those cameras due have some usefulness. Went back at it with flat braided dishing line thru lower bolt hold to assure it didn't slide back in again. Cut once one bolt was in .....finished the rest without issue. Appreciate the shared advice. Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  2. during my replacement of water pump, while I was putting the tensioner back in the metal gasket slid down behind the timing chain cover. Not visible...... I know im f'd.....but any helpful suggestion would be appreciated. I am not setup to lift the engine to remove upper and lower oil pan. Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
  3. update.... Found drain plug.... info from techician was not correct Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
  4. Had the chance to chat with a technician at local Nissan, it was shared with me that some 2003 pathfinders had dowels installed vs plugs. Also, to prevent any coolant spillage into the time chain cover with this dowel install there is a drainage into oil pan. But this comes with the need to drain oil after job. Interesting, because I did not find anything over the inter-web to suggest this was fact.....I will just have to keep my eyes opening and observe during the removal if it is a fact. Will share afterward..... Who doesn't want to remove a timing chain cover......the adventure.....cost....time....I should rethink this....hmmmm. Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  5. Plugs is not a bolt.....it is a plug. How does someone go about removing this and is it threaded? Would like to know if I am going to have to need to tap a hole. Add some pictures... Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
  6. All good on bought parts... Thanks Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  7. Those were my feelings....but needed someone to reinforce my on thoughts. Thanks Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  8. Power valves done. Used blue gel locktite Sorry I didn't take a pick or two....the valve flap, looked as if it had a countersinked hole from the movement. The screw had flatten threads under the screw head also. Hope that doesn't comeback to bite me. Will I see some performance improvement from this fix? Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  9. Update....found out the name of the part a broke......Pintle Cap. I have been able to locate this part in sets less than $20. Alternate option to consider. Set comes with filter/strainer for injector. Weighting the pros and cons of opening up fuel system. Going to ohm check all the injectors first, just in case the #3 cylinder misfire I coded, which started me on this project, is cause by the injector. That might be my push to open fuel system. Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  10. Thank you..... They're so many out there at such different prices. What about the piece I broke.....ever seen it as a single item? Very helpful... Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  11. Back again as I have a R50 project going on. 2003 LE 140,000 miles As I was replacing the Water outlet hose and water control valve thermostat, I must have leaned ever so slightly on the fuel rail and the number 2 injector. I had somehow cracked the brown plastic/phenolic piece on the injector next to the big green O-ring. Found this as I was getting ready to put the fuel rail back. Big question is what are my options. Looked online and do not see that that piece is available as a seperate item. I see there are new injector available starting at pricey to god no......then there are the remanufacturers. Can I get one injector and just replace the damaged one....or will I have to purchase a matched set? Appreciate advice on best next steps vs most economical next steps. Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks for the notice.....inspected the valves and 4 of 6 were loose. Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  13. Folk, Doing some cooling hose replacements while I have removed most of the intake parts getting to the plugs and ignition coils to replace. I found while removing all the long bolts of those assemblies ..... there was blue compound on all of them. I assume it is blue locktite.....but in the FSM, it does not have any reference to applying a thread locking agent. Advice welcome, I have blue locktite if this is a norm for DIY reinstallation as a prevenative measure for success. Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
  14. Interesting, Nominally, how much of each would be used? Also, mix before oil change or after oil is drained. Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  15. That is something I needed to know.... Thanks Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  16. Thank you......that helps. Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  17. Anything special I need to know if I remove the transfer case separately before the SFD? Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  18. Thanks for painting the picture in detail. I have a large break of holiday time at the end of next month so I will take the shot around then. This is such a great forum.....all shared info was and is appreciated. If I don't get myself real crunched on time maybe I will get some pictures and video of the adventure. Then share...... Thank for the tip on seal install. Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  19. OK, Intriging....using this SFD method you still need to remove the trany, it allows better access to everything that needs to be removed? Please state what the acronim means. Also I am beginnig to understand if it is the oil leak I am targeting, I need to consider oil pan gasket replacement, RMS replacement, go after that nickle thingy(sorry for my ignorance on what that is...more research needed), and I am also aware that the oil could be coming from the bore hole, oil cooler gasket and O-ring. Sounds like I need to take a week or 2 of vacation time to do all this. I appreciate all of you giving input and advice.......but from what I saw on youtube on a transmission removal on a R51.....this SFD method offers hope that I will attempt this versus dumping blue devil and/or Bars rear main seal restorer in a every oil change. Would you have any pics of the subframe bolts in place? Any pics of the sequence of steps? Thanks again. Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
  20. I know about the valve covers......not about the bore plug. My focus on main is I'm seeing oil drips that appear to originate from the opening at the bottom of bellhousing. Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  21. Quart every 3 - 4 months Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  22. I had done that....reading through it exposed the desire to see a video or videos on parts of the procedures, doing this would help me decide how much pre planning and time I will need to commit. Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
  23. Folks, I fear I need to replace my rear main seal. Does anyone have a video or a link to a video on how to do what needs to be removed to get to the seal? Thanks Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
  24. New to the forum and first time posting. 03 pathfinder LE Looking to add some new tires to my stock pathy that will make it more 4x4 capable to a novice off-road driver. Look forward to reading through the threads for help. Found the forum as I was replacing some worn out trailing arm bushings. Thanks Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
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