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About Volox

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    NPORA Newbie

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    It rocks so much I own two of them.
  • Place of Residence
    San Diego
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

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  • Location
    San Diego

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  1. Yeah there's that section of the FSM that talks about running the compressor to bleed off oil if you have too much (can't remember the exact wording at the moment). I just didn't quite understand that one. Do you happen to recall the psi you ended up at? Or did you just add the quantities blind based on volume?
  2. I'm replacing my AC condenser (and drier) in my 95 and I'm trying to figure out the capacities and volume of oil and refrigerant to put in. The system has been fully vacuum evacuated. The capacity charts from the third party companies seem like a ton of both - almost seems like double what it ought to be. And they also don't seem to line up with what I'm seeing in the service manual. Of course it's hard to know if the oil to refrigerant ratio was right when the system was emptied... So how does one ensure the right amount of oil is in the system? And then what should be the volumes or pressures I should be aiming for?
  3. Thanks for the great suggestions and info. I always waiver between buying the timing light vs. just limping down to the shop and having them do the timing. Price wise it is one of those things where the cheap tools that might or might not get the job done are less than the mechanic and the tools that are decent quality are going to cost me more. I'm hoping that one of these days I'll have a decent DIY garage nearby that will make these decisions less difficult.
  4. Thanks Slartibartfast for the recommendations.
  5. Anyone have good recommendations on a decent quality timing light? And while I'm at it, what timing position have people generally found to be 'right' for their WD21 VG engines?
  6. Jmor85 - Are you still looking for a parts car? I've got a green '95 that I'm parting out. You're welcome to have it for cheap after I'm done grabbing the things that I need off from it. Let me know if you're interested and I can give you more details.
  7. Volox

    LED Conversion

    I would be interested to hear what results you get with them.
  8. Well unfortunately I'm going to be moving across the country so keeping the whole thing isn't really an option. The cost of trucking it would be higher than the cost of trying to re-acquire parts later on (I hope). I would drive it the distance, but the tires are shot and one of them won't even hold air. I'm not one for going 1,000+ miles on a spare; and the even the cost of used tires doesn't seem to make financial sense. And then there's the issue of where to park it... not sure I'm going to find a landlord that will let me park a haft parted out truck on the front lawn where I'm going. Like I said, if there is something you want, let me know; I might be able to pull and sell it to you if I haven't already claimed it for my truck.
  9. I've finished my engine rebuild and gotten my beloved Pathfinder back on the road. In the meantime I had bought another one of the same year to use as a daily driver that had fewer miles on it. Some things are in better shape on one or the other so I'm parts swapping to the one I want to keep. Interested if folks have any input on parts I should definitely strip and keep as spares even if I don't swap them in right now? Or if anyone has suggestions on things that have high value that I should part-out and sell? Also willing to take requests if someone is looking for a part that I might be able to pull. The one I'm not going to keep is in decent running condition but I get the feeling that the tranny is going to need a rebuild if it goes much longer and the tires need replacement and exterior paint is peeling. Unless someone knocks on my door to buy it from me after I'm done grabbing parts, I'll probably just donate what's left or have it hauled to the scrap yard.
  10. @Beard Did you end up finding any? I'm looking for some of the same.
  11. Mr_Reverse - Just wanted to thank you for all the advice along the way. It took 2 ratchet straps, two wooden crowbars, a hammer, a long handled screwdriver (which is now useless), several attempts, and more curse words than I could count.... But I did finally get those dang things lined up. Ended up having to cut the threads into the nut on the mount with a good screw after thanking the whole mess off the engine. Then had to do some real interesting acrobatics to put the solid mounts back onto the engine. Let's just say that next time the mounts need work, I'm most likely going to let some sucker at an automotive shop do the cursing.
  12. Managed to get the exhaust pipes lined up and screwed on... I'm sure my neighbors wondered why I had 3 large 2x2s stuffed into my engine compartment. However I royally screwed the pooch on the engine mounts. Got the passenger side lined up without too much trouble, just loosening bolts and applying a little pressure in the right direction. The driver side is where things went wrong... I thought I had the bolts from the engine mount to the bracket on the engine lined up (the screws that pass through the thin metal plate). Getting them lined up required unbolting the motor mount front the frame. From there took what seemed like an act of God to get there motor mount back on the frame again. That all would have been good, except for the fact that the back bolt that I thought I had lined up was actually cross threaded!!! So now I have a bolt with 3 or 4 rings of thread chewed off and a bracket hole that probably has the same problem. Knowing how hard that bolt is to line up when things are in good shape, I'm not sure I stand a chance with it stripped like that. Any suggestions? Do I grind / smooth fown the bad threads off the end of the screw to give it more 'lead' into the hole to line up? Or get a new bolt and pray the hole isn't too FUBAR? Or take the bracket off and start over?
  13. Yeah I was contemplating loosening those bolts up, but it felt like going backwards. (and $@&# are some of them hard to get at) What about the exhaust manifold to pipe connections? Problem there is that loosening the manifold bolts really doesn't provide any play. If I attached the pipe first, I don't think I'd stand a chance at getting the manifold loved into it's studs; that was hard enough with it on the engine stand.
  14. That's funny. I usually just save them for next time I can't find a bolt that 'I know I just set it down over here somewhere'.
  15. Wasn't sure whether this was a better fit for this or for the 1995 Pathfinder section, but it seemed like a more general question, so I'm doing it here. I'm working in getting the engine back into place after having had it rebuilt. After much use of select vocabulary and hours of alternating between standing on my head and rolling around under the truck, I've managed to get the transmission bolted back to the VG30E Where I'm now struggling is getting the engine mounts and exhaust pipes to line up. I thought I had the one engine mount lined up but the screws don't seem to want to grab the threads. The exhaust manifold to pipe connection seems like it ought to flex into place, but I can't seem to flex it the right direction. Anyone have any tips or tricks on how to get these two things ironed out? Also, everyone always suggests using 'good fuel' for break in. How have others gone about removing the old fuel before starting things up?

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