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jlduthie last won the day on April 3 2019

jlduthie had the most liked content!

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About jlduthie

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie
  • Birthday November 13

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1998 Chilkoot (family owned since new), 5 speed, Warn locking hubs, KYB GR-2 struts, OME MD front coils, SFCreation 1" front spacer, missing link, LR 9447 rear coils, Bilstein 5125 (33-185552) shocks
  • Place of Residence
    Edmonton, AB
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
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  • Location
    Edmonton, AB
  • Country
  • Interests
    Cars, mountain biking, cooking

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  1. When you pull the HVAC controls through the double DIN you’ll be looking at it like this. The paired blue/white wires left and right of centre are the bulbs for the dials. They just twist out. I didn’t bother with the Recirc and A/C lamps - I understand they are 12V integrates bulb/switches and not easily replaced with LEDs.
  2. So... Working in SE BC for a while and went to check out the local wrecker to grab some spare headlamps and such. Look what I found! The gate is immaculate so has already replaced my mostly rusty gate and can’t wait to get home and refurbish that carrier and hopefully mount this summer or fall. Was a little hard to get that mounted by myself but ratchet straps for the win haha. Interior LED conversion also mostly done save for some warning lamps. Heading back early next week to grab the leading edge of the roof skin and some other goodies. CV axles still good with OME MD and 1” spacer.
  3. No problem! Didn’t take photos when I did it as I forgot phone but pulled a spare HVAC controller from the wrecker yesterday. I’ll grab a pic when I get home today
  4. I can confirm that this works. You don't even have to take the module entirely out. The illumination lights for the panel are on the top left and right centre and are easy to access through the double DIN for the head unit. Just did it.
  5. I played around with mine last weekend. Got it loose but couldn't wiggle it out of the slot for the HVAC controls but figured it would come out if I took the head unit out so I could push it back, down, and out through the double DIN hole. This seems to confirm that approach (I didn't have time to try it):
  6. The 5125s come with (mine did at least) sleeves to reduce the ID of the bottom bushing to 1/2". The mounting holes on mine ('98) were 12mm. I drilled them out the extra 0.028" and used 1/2" Grade 8 bolts.
  7. Somewhere in here is an amazing table of different shocks with extended and compressed lengths. Can’t remember who posted it but I’ll try to find it. Maybe someone else has the link handy? Edit: Here it is - I'd downloaded it a while ago. This is NOT my work but I can't recall who to give credit to. Sorry if that's you! Shocks.xlsx
  8. Should also add that I’ve had the hubs locked for a month now and been in and out of 4H daily with no issues at all.
  9. Little update. LEDs bought for interior and brake lights but not in yet. New head unit installed. Bought from Crutchfield with kit and pretty much plug and play. Kit to concert from double to single DIN pushed the climate control panel up a bit but can live with that. https://imgur.com/gallery/PKVgM2d Have an oxyacetylene welding course coming up in January, then lots of body work and hopefully paint next summer!
  10. Others will correct if I’m wrong, but I believe the main difference is that on earlier trucks the orientation of lower shock mount and panhard rod make it such that shocks often must be mounted body up to avoid interference between body and panhard rod. Not a problem with Bilstein monotube shocks like 5100 series which can be mounted either orientation. https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/product/bilstein-b8-5100/
  11. Looks fantastic. I'm trying to source some panels for my 1998. Can you confirm that aft of the front fenders the sheet metal for doors, roof, and rear hatch is interchangeable? There's a 99.5+ at a wrecker here. Thanks.
  12. I have - years ago tried it from a stop to see what would happen. Clicking sound from both front hubs. No damage as far as I can tell but definitely didn’t sound like it would be good if it happened at anything more than a crawl. Warn hubs fwiw. No error light either.
  13. Fantastic as always. Love following this.

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