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jlduthie last won the day on April 3 2019

jlduthie had the most liked content!

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About jlduthie

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular
  • Birthday November 13

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1998 Chilkoot (family owned since new), 5 speed, Warn locking hubs, KYB GR-2 struts, OME MD front coils, SFCreation 1" front spacer, missing link, LR 9447 rear coils, Bilstein 5125 (33-185552) shocks
  • Place of Residence
    Edmonton, AB
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
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  • Location
    Edmonton, AB
  • Country
  • Interests
    Cars, mountain biking, cooking

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  1. Pre-1999.5 here. Upper direct, lower drilled out to 1/2” for use with sleeve supplied with shocks.
  2. Drilled the mounts out to 1/2”. It’s a .028” increase in diameter so lots of material left. Then just used the supplied 5/8 OD 1/2 ID sleeves with grade 8 bolts.
  3. Once the filter's broken loose, wrap it in a plastic bag with some paper towels inside and spin it off.
  4. Likewise. For sake of completeness (and green lights!).
  5. Great to hear you got the HVAC done and thanks for the heads up about the wiper switch! My ashtray bulb was permanently fixed as well. I ended up breaking the bulb so trimmed the plastic housing and soldered an LED in place and glued it back in.
  6. No problem! I haven’t looked at the rear wiper switch but it should be easy to pull when you take the centre console trim off
  7. Yep just for levelling. Thought about going with HD OME or AC coils but the bumper I’m planning is still a year or two out so figured MD + spacer were a better choice for now. I have the Warn hubs as well so CVs less of a concern. Haven’t had any problems with binding when I am using 4H though.
  8. Hahaha Canadian speed holes. Haven’t heard that before but definitely using it. That’s the first carrier I’ve seen at yard in forever. They seem hard to come by too from this forum.
  9. When you pull the HVAC controls through the double DIN you’ll be looking at it like this. The paired blue/white wires left and right of centre are the bulbs for the dials. They just twist out. I didn’t bother with the Recirc and A/C lamps - I understand they are 12V integrates bulb/switches and not easily replaced with LEDs.
  10. So... Working in SE BC for a while and went to check out the local wrecker to grab some spare headlamps and such. Look what I found! The gate is immaculate so has already replaced my mostly rusty gate and can’t wait to get home and refurbish that carrier and hopefully mount this summer or fall. Was a little hard to get that mounted by myself but ratchet straps for the win haha. Interior LED conversion also mostly done save for some warning lamps. Heading back early next week to grab the leading edge of the roof skin and some other goodies. CV axles still good with OME MD and 1” spacer.
  11. No problem! Didn’t take photos when I did it as I forgot phone but pulled a spare HVAC controller from the wrecker yesterday. I’ll grab a pic when I get home today
  12. I can confirm that this works. You don't even have to take the module entirely out. The illumination lights for the panel are on the top left and right centre and are easy to access through the double DIN for the head unit. Just did it.
  13. I played around with mine last weekend. Got it loose but couldn't wiggle it out of the slot for the HVAC controls but figured it would come out if I took the head unit out so I could push it back, down, and out through the double DIN hole. This seems to confirm that approach (I didn't have time to try it):
  14. The 5125s come with (mine did at least) sleeves to reduce the ID of the bottom bushing to 1/2". The mounting holes on mine ('98) were 12mm. I drilled them out the extra 0.028" and used 1/2" Grade 8 bolts.

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