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jlduthie

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jlduthie last won the day on April 3 2019

jlduthie had the most liked content!

About jlduthie

  • Birthday November 13

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1998 Chilkoot (family owned since new), 5 speed, Warn locking hubs, KYB GR-2 struts, OME MD front coils, SFCreation 1" front spacer, missing link, LR 9447 rear coils, Bilstein 5125 (33-185552) shocks
  • Place of Residence
    Edmonton, AB
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    Chilkoot
  • Year
    1998

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Edmonton, AB
  • Country
    Canada
  • Interests
    Cars, mountain biking, cooking

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  1. No, but some trimming needed. I have almost the same tire and, post 2”-lift, have those wheels as well. There was some rubbing both pre-lift (stock 98 XE wheels) and post lift. Fender liner and splash guard need trimming.
  2. It’s probably easier to just replace the entire arms. I’d do ball joints etc. at the same time as you’ll have to pull them apart anyways to get the control arm off. I had a HELL of a time getting two of the rear bolts out. Grit collects on top of the subframe where the bolts thread and worked it’s way in as I was unthreading the bolts, galling the threads. I ran a rethreading tap before installing new bolts and had no issues after that.
  3. Faux carbon fiber came stock on this model for that year; I haven't replaced any interior trim. Good luck with that hum! Hopefully it's nothing major.
  4. Glad you got it working!!! Just brought it to a local exhaust shop. Told them I wanted something a little more aggressive than stock that would still be reasonable at 110 kph on the highway. Brand is Flo-Pro. I’m not sure of the exact model (other than that it’s from the Max series) but this is the website: https://www.flopro.com/max.html
  5. Yeah they're 15". 8" wide, -19 mm offset.
  6. I agree. Haven’t tried it as mine was under coated from new, but have heard good things about the oil-based spray on products. I’ll be using Rust Check when I’ve replaced all the rusty panels.
  7. Been a while! The thread linked to the previous post is a fantastic resource. Just a couple small updates: 1) Earlier this year the exhaust rusted off aft of the muffler so replaced muffler and everything back. More aggressive than stock - sounds fantastic at 2500+ rpm with the pedal down - but as quiet as stock when cruising. 2) Hella 450 fogs to replace stock. Removed a section from bumper to accommodate larger fogs, filled the voids, and prepped and painted entire bumper flat black. 3) Indicator for hubs locked/unlocked. Just an illuminating switch wired to ACC wire for head unit. 4) Full exterior LEDs minus front indicators, headlights, and fogs. Load resistors for rear indicators to avoid hyper flash; attached to inside of rear light housing with heat-conductive double sided tape. 5) SFD kit from Pines to Spines is sitting in a shipping warehouse in Montana waiting for the border to open... No access to garage at the moment so likely that’s it for the winter, though I may try my hand at upholstery and repair the driver’s seat. Everything I’ve found in a yard has been pretty nasty looking. Major plans for next year or two include the rear tire carrier mod, new fenders at all 4 corners, new rockers, SFD kit with 33s, and possibly gear ratio change plus/minus Lokka for the front diff. I’ve toyed with the idea of a SAS for the front and a heavier rear axle along with a Cummins 4BT but that fab is on hold for a long while and I think that motor is just too heavy.
  8. Buy new lights The housing is aluminum and the screws on the back side are steel. No way to replace bulb without pulling the back off, at least on my 1998. Twisted all 4 heads off the screws (after 48 hours soaking in PB blaster), tried drilling out, and then gave up. Hella 450s on there now, although they don’t fit without removing the horizontal bar below the factory fogs.
  9. Pre-1999.5 here. Upper direct, lower drilled out to 1/2” for use with sleeve supplied with shocks.
  10. Drilled the mounts out to 1/2”. It’s a .028” increase in diameter so lots of material left. Then just used the supplied 5/8 OD 1/2 ID sleeves with grade 8 bolts.
  11. Once the filter's broken loose, wrap it in a plastic bag with some paper towels inside and spin it off.
  12. Likewise. For sake of completeness (and green lights!).
  13. Great to hear you got the HVAC done and thanks for the heads up about the wiper switch! My ashtray bulb was permanently fixed as well. I ended up breaking the bulb so trimmed the plastic housing and soldered an LED in place and glued it back in.
  14. No problem! I haven’t looked at the rear wiper switch but it should be easy to pull when you take the centre console trim off
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