zakzackzachary
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Posts posted by zakzackzachary
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On 7/20/2022 at 6:12 PM, The_Oregonian said:
1. It's my understanding that the VG's are pretty under-powered. For example I was following a friend and former 3.3 Pathy owner who still frequents NPORA forums ( @zakzackzachary ) up a highway grade. He radioed me and asked how my 3.5 was doing out of curiosity - I never went beyond 1/4 throttle and stayed in 3rd gear the whole way up. He said that his 3.3 would have been screaming at full throttle by the top of that grade just to keep up with traffic (correct me if I'm wrong Zack). I would expect this to be even worse at Colorado elevations.
Yeah the 3.3 I had was a solid engine, but boy she screamed when having to go at high speeds haha. The 3.5 has an extra like 100hp which shines there.
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11 hours ago, Carl_99QX4_yeww said:
I'd like to mount the 02 carrier to my 99 Qx4, however I don't think it's possible to have a rear mounted mountain bike rack AND a rear tire carrier. What do you all think? I'd like to keep my mountain bike storage on the rear end of the truck since it's mostly unused space. The roof racks make your truck crazy tall and inside is where I sleep. Just throwing all this out into the internet cosmos lookin for ideas.
Another alternative is to use a hitch extension. I used to use one with my R50+tire carrier all the time with a folding storage platform.
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On 5/19/2021 at 6:10 PM, EricCR said:
Getting upset at RCR for their "reviews" is like watching Top Gear expecting serious automotive journalism. It's a comedy YouTube channel. Whether it's funny or interesting to some of us and not others, well, that's a matter of having different tastes. He gives abstract reviews and deals more with the surreal aspect of driving a car. There are plenty of other YT channels and established car shows that talk about hp, 0-60 and off road capabilities.
This is kinda the crux of it. It's his shtick. I used to watch them back in the day, but for me it got a little tiring and watching the latest R50 video reminded me of that. Tyler did a little rebuttal video that addresses some of the RCR points, I found it entertaining and good. I like that it exists just as a counter for anyone who runs across the RCR video and has differing opinions.
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On 3/14/2021 at 9:54 AM, XPLORx4 said:
Sounds like it's the starter. If it does start after several attempts and the engine cranks quickly, meaning the battery is well-charged, it's likely the starter solenoid. I had a similar problem a few years ago. I would try to start the engine, but it would just click. After two or three quick twists of the key, it would finally start. I replaced the starter and all is back to normal.
If OP is handy, they could potentially bench test the starter (or maybe on the vehicle?) with 12V leads. If it seems to be working fine, my next thought would be the ignition switch, maybe.
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I've never heard of any aftermarket solutions and most DIY racks utilize the OEM rail that's bolted into the gutter. If it were me my first stop would be to check the local salvage/junk/car yards and see if there's a Terrano you could pull them off of!
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I'll be honestly, I never thought about using it as an added layer of protection, only as a bandaid to a torn boot. That's kinda an interesting idea.
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Without looking at value or anything, my gut tells me that if a replacement transmission is less than.... $1500 it'd be worth it to me. Obviously can save money if it's remanufactured, rebuilt, junkyard, DIY, etc.
Why that much? Well, it's obviously in good shape and still a good vehicle. You know all the history, one owner, etc. Replace the transmission and I bet you could get many more years out of it.
The alternative is you spend more than the transmission on a different vehicle. Either much more on a new vehicle with known history, or somewhat more on a vehicle that runs, but probably doesn't have the same meticulous records/history as yours.
Just throwing an opinion out there for ya, you know what they say about opinions
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22 hours ago, The_Oregonian said:
I can appreciate that.
I also thought long and hard about this, and debated trying to track down an OEM tire carrier as well. My situation is that I don’t have a garage or even driveway and live in a neighborhood in the city. I decided I didn’t want to struggle drill into the body of the car out on the street as cars are passing by and my neighbors are walking the dogs.. Particularly in the middle of the rainy season here in the Pacific NW. This seemed like the best solution for me at this time. Not only that but having the option for bolt-on rotopax mounts for spare fuel was appealing as well and with the OEM mount you’d be talking about custom welding etc which is out for me. You’re mileage may vary.
Note as well the price was not over 1k - more like $750. On top of that since this is a relatively universal product I figure I can easily sell it for not a big loss if I decide to go a different direction in the future.
I think you made a solid choice. Mounting my tire carrier is not something I'd even be remotely interested in doing in the street in the rain. Although I didn't need a cherry picker or anything to do it solo, it was still some awkward finagling. I'm sure the resale value on the hitch one makes it a no brainer for your situation, along with the modularity that comes with being able to remove/install it on a whim. I'm a fan of that- my recent Rola basket mounting solution includes some custom brackets I made that allow me to bolt/unbolt my basket for removal in about 5-10 min which is handy for a number of reasons!
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On 8/4/2020 at 11:45 AM, R50JR said:
I second this. I am running the exact same setup and 1/2” is near max on oem cv axles.
Sent from my PathfinderAdditionally I find this set-up pretty dang good. Only downside is the reduction in downward suspension travel, but that's a function of the heavier duty springs and the fact that we're limited by OEM spec struts (other than maybe OME struts...).
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Are you planning on OME HD front springs PLUS a 1" spacer? That might end up pushing it as you'll see. I currently run OME HD front springs plus a 0.5" spacer and I found that was the max I could go. That was after a year of letting the OME HD springs settle out first.
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On 7/19/2020 at 4:06 PM, Outie said:
Just purchased a 2001 SE and plan to lift it a little. There’s a tremendous amount of good info on this forum. So much I’m a little overwhelmed when choosing lift options. I recently ordered the NRC 9449 from LR Direct and probably gonna go with 26”/14” shocks (not sure what flavor yet) and just 2” spacers on original struts in front. Has anyone done this combo and what was your outcome? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated,
The 9449 + strut combo should work well, but the 2" spacer on the front is typically not recommended. Might be able to run it for a while, but most people prefer to go with an upgraded front spring in an OEM spec strut (like the KYB). AFAIK there's only one upgraded front strut- the OME strut, but they're pricey and harder to come by.
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I've been working on diagnosing a similar issue with my 3.3L. Sometimes, almost randomly as far as I can tell, after I first start the engine it'll run rough- stumbling like a misfire. Letting it run a bit, or if I just start driving, it'll go away pretty quick and then idle fine.
I haven't yet narrowed it down, but it sounds similar to your issue. I had a knock sensor code, but it went away after I changed out a bad O2 sensor, so the knock code was connected to that thankfully.
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Okay so update. Me and @PathyDude17 started chatting and it appears there's more differences in rear shock mount placement and required lengths than I originally thought!
Pre-facelift has an upper mount that is slight up/away from the top of the spring mount, and a lower mount that is about in line with the axle.
My 3.3L post-facelift has an upper mount like pre, but a lower mount that is dropped below the axle.
3.5L post-facelift seems to have an upper mount closer to the top spring mount and dropped below the axle.
We're going to try to gather some picture examples and put together a separate post about it. Just another example of all the minute differences between models...
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I have LR 9449's which are just the stiffer version of the 9447's and currently use Bilstein 33-185569. I do have the tire carrier on the back which adds some weight, but I've never had any issue with my bushings or length of stock brake lines yet.
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That looks awesome and provides a ton of attachment points, great job! I thought I'd be building one out of extruded aluminum one day, but that's definitely more pricey. Same idea though.
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3 hours ago, Dozzerwd21 said:
California is out of toilet paper, baby wipes, and water. Everything besides half the business being closed its fairly normal around.
I'm a bit outside of the Seattle area and it's the same. Everyone seems to be doing a good job with social distancing/sheltering other than for grocery shopping/walks. I'm still working, both from home and having to go in to support unfortunately. Happy to have a job that's flexible though, some aren't doing as well with the shutdown of non-essential businesses.
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Looks great! You Australians have some great options available to you. I don't think we have the LOVELLS front struts available to us in the US, but I've heard good things. YOu have a 2001 with a 3.3L? I thought 2000 was the last year for the facelift+3.3, but maybe I'm wrong.
For HID headlights a guy posted up on here his projector retrofit and with our basic headlights it looks really straight forward. I might look into that one day.
Welcome!
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I brought my PF in and they said, "It's not bad enough for them to warranty."
It's pretty annoying. It'll retract like 1/10 times but usually I manually feed it back in.
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On 3/6/2020 at 6:10 PM, Alxspony said:
Sadly, cutting doesnt help with installation
Another option to try is penetrating oil and an impact wrench if you can get one. New ones shouldn't spin as freely as the old loosey goosey ones, in my experience.
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I personally bought KYB replacements for: 54302/54303 (strut), 54050M (strut bellow), 54320 (strut mount + spacer it comes with), 54325 (strut bearing came with mount), 54040BA/BB (nuts came with mount), 54056X I replaced the top bolt with a Moog camber bolt for added adjustability.
Then for everything else I re-used the OEM stuff. So I didn't use an OEM bearing, I guess only time will tell if it'll last.
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Nice job! I did this once before on a 7th generation Honda Accord and it was a pain in the butt. This looks honestly really straight forward for our Pathfinders... I might have to add it to the project list!
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Welcome! I'm @GrizzlyPath on instagram too. I'm over in the Kitsap peninsula area.
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Alright homie. There's a few threads on this forum that have more detail, including my personal build thread you can check out. Long story short, the KYB replacement stuff is all totally fine and will go together exactly like OEM, except that KYB item 54320 is different than OEM. KYB item 54320 comes as a two part piece that the above schematic doesn't show. Basically there's a metal tube that comes out of that part and extends down to engage with the strut when assembled where as the KYB unit has the part and the metal tube separate. It's super super easy to assemble, but you just have to remember to put the metal tube spacer onto the strut prior to putting item 54320 on when assembling. And that's it.
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On 12/18/2019 at 10:09 AM, joshrichard said:
So. Many. Pathfinders.
That’s so awesome man. I hope one day I can find a way to make it up there and finally be able to meet some of the faces behind the names!
Also, your pathfinder is hands down one of my favorites. Everything you did, you did it so cleanly. Everything has a purpose and is functional. Crazy sweet truck man!I appreciate that Josh! It's been a fun mild build. It'd be a long haul, but if you ever make it out here we'll make sure it was worth it!
On 12/18/2019 at 2:06 PM, onespiritbrain said:Hope you guys are happy up there with your ridiculously beautiful land... saying I am jealous doesnt do well to describe how I feel looking at these photos.
There's some beautiful spots out here for sure, coming from AK the mountains are a bit less intense here, but having the fire roads makes them so much more accessible which is great. I lived in Huntsville, AL for a while and visited the Chattahoochee and base of the Appalachians, which I see you're just south of. There are definitely some beautiful areas out there, and amazing driving roads if you have a street car- just not the super big peaks like in the West. I'd love to go back and cruise the Blue Ridge Parkway again one day.
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Spring/Strut install difficulty of DIY
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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That little dang spacer is SO INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT! Failure to include it if you need it will result in strut failure and possibly even your strut blowing out the top hat and your suspension dropping into the wheel well.
Either include the spacer, re-use your OEM top hats, or make a spacer. Washers seem like they'd work if you had to, but a spacer would be nicer. If you compare the OEM hat to the KYB one you'll see how the OEM one has it built in and that's what the spacer is replicating.