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zakzackzachary

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zakzackzachary last won the day on August 19

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About zakzackzachary

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2000 SE (R50)
  • Place of Residence
    Pacific NW
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2000

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kitsap

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  1. Welcome! I lived in HSV 2016-18. Loved that city. I look forward to seeing pics of your rig and maybe some local exploration missions!
  2. I would not recommend trying to use a Hi-Lift off the step mounts. They're rounded and don't really stick out that much. Just overall not a good anchor. I've seen people do it off the hitch. But if you're new to a Hi-Lift definitely do some studying, and maybe practice with someone who's familiar. They're useful, but also super dangerous. In many circumstances a solid bottle jack, or even scissor jack, can get you out of a pinch. Just my $0.02! Once you get sliders a Hi-Lift would become a lot more useful.
  3. That reminds me @ferrariowner123 I could start pulling paint matched rear bumper/fender flares if you wanted.
  4. Welcome! And interesting that he has that grill on a 99! The plot thickens with the amount of variations in our vehicles.
  5. I hadn't thought of that and I think you're totally right. The boxed key is neutralizing the immobilizer I bet he could just get any 'ol blank cut at the hardware store and it'd probably work!
  6. I've done the OME HD front springs with 3-standard rental compressors. Sketchy and slow, but doable in a pinch. I was broken down in the middle of nowhere doing it in a parkinglot though, not ideal. 3/10 do not recommend. Tempting, but it will still be slower than having the shop do it with a press. And I’ll likely never use the compressor again On a different subject, some of my packages came in early so I’m going to try to wire up the camera and water sensor tomorrow so that I don’t have to worry about squeezing everything into one shop day. I’ll post up some pics when it’s done. Honestly, if you plan on working on your vehicle pretty regularly, and have friends who could possibly benefit from using this compressor, I 1000% recommend it. Vs the sketchy rental compressors, these only take minutes to compress an OME HD spring, makes rebuilding the struts incredibly easy. I had a shop do my front struts the first time around and they did it WRONG and it ended up nuking my assembly. I wish I had just done it myself the first time around. You can take your time and make sure everything's done right. It's really not hard and this compressor makes it so much safer.
  7. NooooooooO! Check out post #90 and the ones that follow my build thread. I tried to spread the word more, but it didn't get to you Let me know if you have any questions, but you'll need to disassemble and rebuild your struts properly.
  8. It's that time of year again to start tracking down some chains if you don't have any for those winter exploration mission!

    1. RedPath88

      RedPath88

      Chains?

      Never used them!  ;D

       

      If you're in Les Schwab territory , they can be returned in the spring for a full refund, if unused.

    2. zakzackzachary

      zakzackzachary

      Man, to be fair I've never owned super swapper tires or anything, but chains almost always have allowed me to push it muuuuuch harder in deep/wet snow than those without them. They're a lifesaver!

  9. As an aside for those reading- When you lift with a lift spring (OME, AC, etc) we put the spring into OEM spec struts. The strut limits the total length the assembly can be and therefore limits the total droop of your suspension. When you lift with a spacer, the spacer goes on top of the strut assembly. Therefore the total length possible will be the strut length plus the spacer. The CV axle has limits to the angle it can be at before it binds, on stock suspension that angle can't normally be reached. Typically with lift springs the strut length still isn't long enough to cause binding issues. If you have lift springs + spacer, or just a big spacer, then you're extending the length limit and could reach the binding angles when approaching your max droop. That's one of the reasons why lift springs are different than lift spacers. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is my understanding.
  10. Hey man! Picking up a 1996 Pathy today, 100k miles only, has a bad knock sensor and needs new tires is all. I live in Spanaway. I've got two kayaks as well, and I'm in need of some off road freinds as im relatively new (5 months) to the area. marshmangabriel@gmail.com is my email. Let's get something set up!

    1. zakzackzachary

      zakzackzachary

      Weird that I never got any sort of notification when you posted this. I'm not sure how it works.

       

      Sounds great! You should put together an introduction thread and post up your vehicle. 

  11. There's additional suspension geometry to take into account.
  12. I'd like to chime in and say that with a previous car the only way to shut up the alarm was to hit the unlock button on the fob. At the time I was only using the key so I tried everything I could think of, finally I replaced the battery in the fob and that worked like a charm.
  13. 1) Remove all the relevant fender liner screws to gain access to the backside of the fender/metal. (maybe only for front wheels) There are a bunch of plastic tabs that snap the fender into the vehicle body. I've been told you could try to slide the fender (I think towards front of vehicle) to disengage and leave all the snaps in the body, but I couldn't get that to work. 2) Use a heat gun to warm up the backside of the plastic tabs, this'll hopefully help keep the tabs or your fender flare from breaking. 3) With slow, strong, even pressure, start at one end and pull away from the vehicle. They should pop out one by one. Once you get one out, you'll see how it's all attached. 4) I continued to warm everything up as I popped the fender flares off.
  14. The spacer isn't visible (not sure what rubber grummet you speak of). The pic is of the bottom of the spacer, so it gets installed when the strut is assembled. If the spacer isn't installed, the non-keyed portion of the strut shaft will eventually dig into the metal insert of the mount and eventually allow for 1/2" of vertical play, which may also wallow out the hole over time. I think he's talking about this rubber grommet! I didn't know they existed, but found a set at the junkyard and threw them on my 3.3L. Keeps water out and stuff.
  15. I recently pulled some mirrors off an R50 in the junkyard- 1) Remove door panel screws (one in the pull handle, you'll also have to pull up on the elbow rest to get to two in there, then pull carefully on the door card. 2) Pull open the plastic vapor barrier. 3) Unclip the power mirror wiring 4) Pop off the corner black plastic piece on the inside by the mirror 5) Remove the 3 bolts and the mirror should fall off.

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