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zakzackzachary

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zakzackzachary last won the day on December 16 2019

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About zakzackzachary

  • Rank
    NPORA Veteran

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2000 SE (R50)
  • Place of Residence
    Pacific NW
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2000

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kitsap

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  1. Additionally I find this set-up pretty dang good. Only downside is the reduction in downward suspension travel, but that's a function of the heavier duty springs and the fact that we're limited by OEM spec struts (other than maybe OME struts...).
  2. Are you planning on OME HD front springs PLUS a 1" spacer? That might end up pushing it as you'll see. I currently run OME HD front springs plus a 0.5" spacer and I found that was the max I could go. That was after a year of letting the OME HD springs settle out first.
  3. The 9449 + strut combo should work well, but the 2" spacer on the front is typically not recommended. Might be able to run it for a while, but most people prefer to go with an upgraded front spring in an OEM spec strut (like the KYB). AFAIK there's only one upgraded front strut- the OME strut, but they're pricey and harder to come by.
  4. I've been working on diagnosing a similar issue with my 3.3L. Sometimes, almost randomly as far as I can tell, after I first start the engine it'll run rough- stumbling like a misfire. Letting it run a bit, or if I just start driving, it'll go away pretty quick and then idle fine. I haven't yet narrowed it down, but it sounds similar to your issue. I had a knock sensor code, but it went away after I changed out a bad O2 sensor, so the knock code was connected to that thankfully.
  5. Okay so update. Me and @PathyDude17 started chatting and it appears there's more differences in rear shock mount placement and required lengths than I originally thought! Pre-facelift has an upper mount that is slight up/away from the top of the spring mount, and a lower mount that is about in line with the axle. My 3.3L post-facelift has an upper mount like pre, but a lower mount that is dropped below the axle. 3.5L post-facelift seems to have an upper mount closer to the top spring mount and dropped below the axle. We're going to try to gather some picture examples and put together a separate post about it. Just another example of all the minute differences between models...
  6. I have LR 9449's which are just the stiffer version of the 9447's and currently use Bilstein 33-185569. I do have the tire carrier on the back which adds some weight, but I've never had any issue with my bushings or length of stock brake lines yet.
  7. That looks awesome and provides a ton of attachment points, great job! I thought I'd be building one out of extruded aluminum one day, but that's definitely more pricey. Same idea though.
  8. My nose is burning from all the bleach we use at work now. #essential

    1. PathyDude17

      PathyDude17

      Same. Spraying down golf carts with a 5:1 water bleach mixture that has to set overnight

  9. I'm a bit outside of the Seattle area and it's the same. Everyone seems to be doing a good job with social distancing/sheltering other than for grocery shopping/walks. I'm still working, both from home and having to go in to support unfortunately. Happy to have a job that's flexible though, some aren't doing as well with the shutdown of non-essential businesses.
  10. Looks great! You Australians have some great options available to you. I don't think we have the LOVELLS front struts available to us in the US, but I've heard good things. YOu have a 2001 with a 3.3L? I thought 2000 was the last year for the facelift+3.3, but maybe I'm wrong. For HID headlights a guy posted up on here his projector retrofit and with our basic headlights it looks really straight forward. I might look into that one day. Welcome!
  11. I brought my PF in and they said, "It's not bad enough for them to warranty." It's pretty annoying. It'll retract like 1/10 times but usually I manually feed it back in.
  12. Another option to try is penetrating oil and an impact wrench if you can get one. New ones shouldn't spin as freely as the old loosey goosey ones, in my experience.
  13. I personally bought KYB replacements for: 54302/54303 (strut), 54050M (strut bellow), 54320 (strut mount + spacer it comes with), 54325 (strut bearing came with mount), 54040BA/BB (nuts came with mount), 54056X I replaced the top bolt with a Moog camber bolt for added adjustability. Then for everything else I re-used the OEM stuff. So I didn't use an OEM bearing, I guess only time will tell if it'll last.
  14. Nice job! I did this once before on a 7th generation Honda Accord and it was a pain in the butt. This looks honestly really straight forward for our Pathfinders... I might have to add it to the project list!
  15. Welcome! I'm @GrizzlyPath on instagram too. I'm over in the Kitsap peninsula area.

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