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zakzackzachary last won the day on August 19

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About zakzackzachary

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    NPORA Regular

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2000 SE (R50)
  • Place of Residence
    Pacific NW
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
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  1. It's that time of year again to start tracking down some chains if you don't have any for those winter exploration mission!

    1. RedPath88



      Never used them!  ;D


      If you're in Les Schwab territory , they can be returned in the spring for a full refund, if unused.

    2. zakzackzachary


      Man, to be fair I've never owned super swapper tires or anything, but chains almost always have allowed me to push it muuuuuch harder in deep/wet snow than those without them. They're a lifesaver!

  2. As an aside for those reading- When you lift with a lift spring (OME, AC, etc) we put the spring into OEM spec struts. The strut limits the total length the assembly can be and therefore limits the total droop of your suspension. When you lift with a spacer, the spacer goes on top of the strut assembly. Therefore the total length possible will be the strut length plus the spacer. The CV axle has limits to the angle it can be at before it binds, on stock suspension that angle can't normally be reached. Typically with lift springs the strut length still isn't long enough to cause binding issues. If you have lift springs + spacer, or just a big spacer, then you're extending the length limit and could reach the binding angles when approaching your max droop. That's one of the reasons why lift springs are different than lift spacers. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is my understanding.
  3. Hey man! Picking up a 1996 Pathy today, 100k miles only, has a bad knock sensor and needs new tires is all. I live in Spanaway. I've got two kayaks as well, and I'm in need of some off road freinds as im relatively new (5 months) to the area. marshmangabriel@gmail.com is my email. Let's get something set up!

    1. zakzackzachary


      Weird that I never got any sort of notification when you posted this. I'm not sure how it works.


      Sounds great! You should put together an introduction thread and post up your vehicle. 

  4. There's additional suspension geometry to take into account.
  5. I'd like to chime in and say that with a previous car the only way to shut up the alarm was to hit the unlock button on the fob. At the time I was only using the key so I tried everything I could think of, finally I replaced the battery in the fob and that worked like a charm.
  6. 1) Remove all the relevant fender liner screws to gain access to the backside of the fender/metal. (maybe only for front wheels) There are a bunch of plastic tabs that snap the fender into the vehicle body. I've been told you could try to slide the fender (I think towards front of vehicle) to disengage and leave all the snaps in the body, but I couldn't get that to work. 2) Use a heat gun to warm up the backside of the plastic tabs, this'll hopefully help keep the tabs or your fender flare from breaking. 3) With slow, strong, even pressure, start at one end and pull away from the vehicle. They should pop out one by one. Once you get one out, you'll see how it's all attached. 4) I continued to warm everything up as I popped the fender flares off.
  7. The spacer isn't visible (not sure what rubber grummet you speak of). The pic is of the bottom of the spacer, so it gets installed when the strut is assembled. If the spacer isn't installed, the non-keyed portion of the strut shaft will eventually dig into the metal insert of the mount and eventually allow for 1/2" of vertical play, which may also wallow out the hole over time. I think he's talking about this rubber grommet! I didn't know they existed, but found a set at the junkyard and threw them on my 3.3L. Keeps water out and stuff.
  8. I recently pulled some mirrors off an R50 in the junkyard- 1) Remove door panel screws (one in the pull handle, you'll also have to pull up on the elbow rest to get to two in there, then pull carefully on the door card. 2) Pull open the plastic vapor barrier. 3) Unclip the power mirror wiring 4) Pop off the corner black plastic piece on the inside by the mirror 5) Remove the 3 bolts and the mirror should fall off.
  9. The 3.5 a significant jump over our 3.3 in terms of towing ability. I personally wouldn't tow just about anything with my 3.3 other than very very light loads.
  10. That's a perfect picture to illustrate this. @onespiritbrain If required, ensure this spacer IS INSTALLED. In my experience, all the aftermarket top hats have the spacer separate, where as OEM has it built in. Update us if you learn more, I'm just curious.
  11. That's literally exactly what I did... Shame on us, haha. Although I also assembled the strut incorrectly, and forgot the 1" metal spacer. Hopefully you did that correctly. The reason I ask is because I noticed that your upper strut top mount hole is oblong (similar to mine) from the threaded portion sawing away at it.
  12. As another data point- I have glass fogs on my '00 Pathfinder.
  13. Dang, that's exactly what happened to me. Ugh. Are you sure you assembled the struts correctly? Take a look at my thread.
  14. The Japanese version of my Subaru came with a front camera that mounts in the grill below the emblem, for a lower car I thought that's a nice feature. On the PF I agree it would be a fun modification to do in addition to a back-up camera. Only thing I can think of is that it could get pretty dirty pretty quick up front!
  15. Found it on a 2000 Pathfinder LE in the junkyard! It was a common issue with the recent Subaru Impreza I believe, that the hood rain gutter drained water right onto the top of the strut causing premature rust-out. I don't think our PF have this issue, but like you said, it's a nice touch. Subaru solved the problem by doing something similar.

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