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zakzackzachary

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zakzackzachary last won the day on December 22 2018

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About zakzackzachary

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2000 SE (R50)
  • Place of Residence
    Pacific NW
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2000

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kitsap

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  1. I'd recommend a quick check of the spark plugs/plug wires. Easy enough to do and at least it'll tell you your plugs didn't crack for some reason or wiring got messed up.
  2. Honestly, a Forester would be a fun daily driver/trail rig. Decently capable, aftermarket, forum support. It'll potentially get better fuel economy than the trucks and will drive fine in the winter. Independent rear suspension will potentially give you better ride quality, but it'll make some of the minor lift options tricky. Biggest downside is that Subarus probably hold their value pretty well in the NE so it'll probably be on the pricier side vs like the RDX or something.
  3. Welcome! I lived in Huntsville for a couple years.
  4. Yeah if I use the PF I'll probably just do what you did! No problemo! You're on point, I already have some cam straps so I'll probably just use those. Now if the weather would just clear up again...
  5. Finished bleeding the breaks after replacing front calipers, 3rd times a charm. I think I just had to slowly work all the air out, but now they're working good as new! LSV was a bit of a pain to reach, but not the hardest thing I've ever done.
  6. So what's next on the agenda... I need to quit being lazy and get started on mounting the OEM rear tire carrier! Purchased the rivnut tool everyone recommended.
  7. Thanks Micah! I got the thread moved over from the New People Start Here! section, might get a few fresh eyes! It would be cool to get together, I'm going to be out goofin' around all summer so PM me if you're ever in the area, there's quite a few Seattle-area NPORA members. Been a while since I've posted an update- After the little smoking tire incident I pulled apart the wheel hub and inspected the inner/outer bearings. They seemed alright so I re-greased them and re-assembled. Next up was brake caliper. I ended up ordering two new calipers and replaced the fronts. I bled the brake system per FSM (5 bleeders including LSV) and so far everything seems to be running well! I pulled a 3rd OEM crossbar to help support my rack in the middle along with another set of the ROLA clamps to go with it. I also picked up a ROLA roof bag which should work fantastic to hold a bunch of misc gear! I'm looking forward to testing this thing out. Bonus, I finally bit the bullet and picked up some Kayaks from Costco. Got some cheap antlers mounts, but they'll probably go on our other vehicle since the Pathfinder's basket doesn't have crossbars as easily accessible. Makes for a fun photo though!
  8. TheSmokingTire- new development, after driving approximately 40 minutes at 50-60 mph a melting plastic sound was smelled and then it was noticed that the front passenger wheel was smoking pretty good. Pulled over, removed the wheel, and inspected. I hit it with a laser thermometer and compared different parts to the driver's side, it was definitely reading hotter by about 30%. I thought maybe bearing or sticking caliper. Got it home, tore the wheel hub and pulled the inner/outer bearings. They seemed alright, no burnt grease, cleaned it out and put in new grease, then closed it up (easy to access btw). The caliper itself is acting slower when compared to the driver's side and the piston boot looks a little questionable. I ordered a new caliper and am going to throw some new pads on. We'll see if that fixes the issue...
  9. I don't think it matters all too much, but my "New People Start Here!" post evolved into my Member's Ride/build thread... Is there a mod who can move it maybe?

  10. If you put in halogen bulbs, did you happen to try turning them around? I don't think they're bidirectional like LE-Diodes are.
  11. To answer this question, checking the bulb should be pretty easy. I just did it. 1) Untwist your 4x4 lever and remove. 2) Use something that wont mar plastic (trim tools are great) and gently, but firmly, pry the overall plastic trim piece up from the seam just to the side of the 4x4 shifter. It'll all pop up. 3) Remove the big plastic panel by maneuvering it over the trans shifter, turn it sideways. 4) From here the PRNDL and it's surrounding plastic still remains. At the forward portion of that you'll see (2) wires running into the PRNDL area, those go to the bulb. Where the wires go in you should be able to pinch the base of the bulb connection and twist to remove the bulb. Note: The wiring is a little tight, but there should be enough slack to pull the bulb out. It'll have a blue covering on it. Easy to replace, just get a replacement.
  12. I snagged one for cheap this way. They're held onto the R50 via (8) big bolts, (4) on each side of the receiver fixture. The driver's side requires you to remove what I think is the evap canister(?) in order to get to the upper bolts, but it isn't hard. I assume all R50's come with threaded bolt holes, I saw mine has the holes, but I haven't confirmed their pre-threaded. Can anyone confirm that?
  13. I recently messed around with my OD since I had removed my shifter. Two screws to remove the shifter, then just pull up and it'll disengage and pop off. Your shifter thumb button is spring loaded and might pop apart, but it's easy to put back together. At the base of the shifter there's a plastic plug that is supposed to disengage from the shifter. There are two wires that go up to the OD button. On mine those just broke off and killed my OD. To "fix" it, I jammed some wire in the holes, enough to bridge the connection between the now gone pins and it works. Your issue could be unrelated to your braking event. If you pulled apart your shifter and took a look you might see that those wires leading to the OD button are loose or messed up.
  14. Also check the hatch/hatch door sensor! My hatch needs to be slammed pretty good to ensure it latches full, if not it'll be loose and can set off the alarm.

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