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zakzackzachary last won the day on August 19

zakzackzachary had the most liked content!

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About zakzackzachary

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    NPORA Regular

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2000 SE (R50)
  • Place of Residence
    Pacific NW
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
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  1. Welcome to the forum! Lots of great knowledge here.
  2. Pretty sure MTG meant spacers on top of the front struts. But still, spring lift is recommended over a big spacer lift like 2".
  3. How do you blow out the charcoal line? The charcoal boxes are in the rear near the spare tire right? And if I recall, the vent is a tube that points down?
  4. Welcome! Hopefully one day you can stretch the legs of Leaky Susan and get on some dirt. The 88's appear to be a great all around little truck. Looks like Oklahoma City!
  5. Welcome! I lived in HSV 2016-18. Loved that city. I look forward to seeing pics of your rig and maybe some local exploration missions!
  6. I would not recommend trying to use a Hi-Lift off the step mounts. They're rounded and don't really stick out that much. Just overall not a good anchor. I've seen people do it off the hitch. But if you're new to a Hi-Lift definitely do some studying, and maybe practice with someone who's familiar. They're useful, but also super dangerous. In many circumstances a solid bottle jack, or even scissor jack, can get you out of a pinch. Just my $0.02! Once you get sliders a Hi-Lift would become a lot more useful.
  7. That reminds me @ferrariowner123 I could start pulling paint matched rear bumper/fender flares if you wanted.
  8. Welcome! And interesting that he has that grill on a 99! The plot thickens with the amount of variations in our vehicles.
  9. I hadn't thought of that and I think you're totally right. The boxed key is neutralizing the immobilizer I bet he could just get any 'ol blank cut at the hardware store and it'd probably work!
  10. I've done the OME HD front springs with 3-standard rental compressors. Sketchy and slow, but doable in a pinch. I was broken down in the middle of nowhere doing it in a parkinglot though, not ideal. 3/10 do not recommend. Tempting, but it will still be slower than having the shop do it with a press. And I’ll likely never use the compressor again On a different subject, some of my packages came in early so I’m going to try to wire up the camera and water sensor tomorrow so that I don’t have to worry about squeezing everything into one shop day. I’ll post up some pics when it’s done. Honestly, if you plan on working on your vehicle pretty regularly, and have friends who could possibly benefit from using this compressor, I 1000% recommend it. Vs the sketchy rental compressors, these only take minutes to compress an OME HD spring, makes rebuilding the struts incredibly easy. I had a shop do my front struts the first time around and they did it WRONG and it ended up nuking my assembly. I wish I had just done it myself the first time around. You can take your time and make sure everything's done right. It's really not hard and this compressor makes it so much safer.
  11. NooooooooO! Check out post #90 and the ones that follow my build thread. I tried to spread the word more, but it didn't get to you Let me know if you have any questions, but you'll need to disassemble and rebuild your struts properly.
  12. It's that time of year again to start tracking down some chains if you don't have any for those winter exploration mission!

    1. RedPath88



      Never used them!  ;D


      If you're in Les Schwab territory , they can be returned in the spring for a full refund, if unused.

    2. zakzackzachary


      Man, to be fair I've never owned super swapper tires or anything, but chains almost always have allowed me to push it muuuuuch harder in deep/wet snow than those without them. They're a lifesaver!

  13. As an aside for those reading- When you lift with a lift spring (OME, AC, etc) we put the spring into OEM spec struts. The strut limits the total length the assembly can be and therefore limits the total droop of your suspension. When you lift with a spacer, the spacer goes on top of the strut assembly. Therefore the total length possible will be the strut length plus the spacer. The CV axle has limits to the angle it can be at before it binds, on stock suspension that angle can't normally be reached. Typically with lift springs the strut length still isn't long enough to cause binding issues. If you have lift springs + spacer, or just a big spacer, then you're extending the length limit and could reach the binding angles when approaching your max droop. That's one of the reasons why lift springs are different than lift spacers. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is my understanding.
  14. Hey man! Picking up a 1996 Pathy today, 100k miles only, has a bad knock sensor and needs new tires is all. I live in Spanaway. I've got two kayaks as well, and I'm in need of some off road freinds as im relatively new (5 months) to the area. marshmangabriel@gmail.com is my email. Let's get something set up!

    1. zakzackzachary


      Weird that I never got any sort of notification when you posted this. I'm not sure how it works.


      Sounds great! You should put together an introduction thread and post up your vehicle. 

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