Freewheel

Look for the thread about Land rover rear springs. They (LR Direct) took 4 days to ship 2 rear springs to Vancouver from the UK for something like $140. Before that-locally I was charged $400 for OME springs - they then brought in the wrong ones and told me it would be up 6 months for the correct ones... There are two model numbers that fit. The shorter ones (NRC 9447) give you a 2-3 inch lift, and the longer ones about 4". I haven't lifted my front end, as it seems that lifts at the front can chew up your CV joints pretty quickly due to the more severe angle. I'll be watching this thread for recommendations on front struts that might give about a one inch lift... it won't match the back, but I don't mind a bit of rake...

Hi Pete. I would get the 9447's. They are dirt cheap from LR Direct and if you are regularly hitting the bump stops, they will likely give you about 3" of lift. Live with the added rake, it shouldn't hurt anything other than you'll have to adjust your headlights... Also look for Febest bump stops online if your stops are toast. And check your trailing arms- those bushings are likely in rough shape as well. Ask me how I know... (it was mainly Chilliwack area "light" logging roads that accelerated the decline of my rear suspension and led to all the work detailed above-there's something truly terrifying about Chilliwack area potholes, washboard and cross ditching...)

Another successful Land rover NRC 9447 spring install. Very affordable at $32 CAD per spring. (shipping doubled the price) This was after a nightmare of spending a lot of money on the wrong OME springs with a local retailer, (wrong SKU number online) and actually managing to install them for a 9" lift ?, and then after removal and refund, being told that the correct ones were at least 4 months away... LR Direct had the 9447's at the door in 4 days. The initial installed ride height is 3" higher than the springs that were on there previously, which I assume were the original stock springs. They feel good, and complete the rear suspension overhaul- shocks, upper and lower trailing arms, new bump stops, and springs! The truck has gone from bottoming out clangingly hard on 20 mh School zone speed bumps, to being full speed on potholed logging roads. And now the back is high enough that the tire chains won't hit the wheel arch panels...

You shouldn't really be able to twist the control arms much- I think you've found your clunk! I just replaced mine, made a huge difference. And I never had any sign of "death wobble" which is usually the sure sign of worn arm bushings. Also, two of my bushings were completely detached internally, though it was not easy to see until they were removed. Start spraying the nuts and bolts with penetrating fluid now... they were pretty tight on mine - a big battle to remove them with large breaker bars, torches, and eventually a couple of the nuts had to be drilled and cut.

Did you repair or replace the chain Or Is the chain new or second hand? In my old chain driven motorcycle, alternating tension and slack meant that the chain had been stretched unevenly and should be replaced... I will admit I haven't got any experience with Pathy timing chains...so I can't say whether it's normal or not - but If I saw that, I'd be looking for second opinions too...

14.78 MPG 60% in town and 40% mountain highways. Manual transmission. I always feel it should do better than that and occasionally it does when I'm on the highway more. So I'm glad to see that in this forum thread, at least, my mileage is fairly typical.