PathyDude17

Did you swap out your headlights?

Hi, this is my pathfinder! You need an 02-04 SE roof rack off of another R50. It will bolt onto your roof just fine, you'll have to remove everything that's currently on top of your 02 LE. For the white Nissan Lettering, that was a little more custom. All of those fairings come with raised black lettering, I just put some white plasti-dip on mine to help it stand out. Paint would probably work better. I would go looking for the roof rack in a junkyard, I doubt nissan still sells this. Ebay also might be able to help.

I agree. Haven't looked to see if the blokka was available, given what's going on in Russia. But, that's encouraging if they're on eBay!

You can also get air lockers or E lockers, both of which are discussed elsewhere on the forum. Swapping the rear axle shafts to a different spline count can be done to make other auto-locker options possible. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/42436-31-spline-swap-or-how-to-install-a-rear-mechanical-locker-in-the-r50/?tab=comments#comment-781291

They do not make one for the rear. Blokka (Russian company who seems to like Lokka's branding...) makes one. Doubt you can get one given all that's happening over there right now. EDIT: Blokka is the product name, the company name is like izno-tech or something...

The lokka works great. A year or so ago, they were struggling to get orders out on time... not sure if that's still the case.

This guy has like 4 videos on his swap

Provided the strut mount is installed properly, there's not an issue with them.

OEM works fine, KYB is a popular choice for OEM replacement struts.

That's on the previous generation WD21's with automatic hubs. Aftermarket Manual hubs for R50 Pathfinders do not have this issue

The other limit that you start maxing out when you lift above 2" is alignment. Even if you in theory had axles that allowed you to lift 4" of suspension, I don't think you'll get an alignment good enough to let your tires wear evenly. 3" seems to be alignable sometimes

I don't think there's issues with any kind of locker and the AWD mode, as the AWD mode really just allows for different front-rear power splits instead of 50/50. The transfer case is a little more complicated overall, but you should certainly not have problems using 4HI with the locker. Refer to this thread:

Good start! I would not mix a spacer lift in the front with a locker. While I applaud the front locker purchase (I had one myself and LOVED how the lokka worked), I think the extra extreme angles from the spacer lift combined with the use of a front locker will lead to blowing more CV axles than if you had a spring lift up front. You may be able to get 4.6 gears from another R50 (Certain Xterra's and Frontiers work for the rear end as well) if you're currently on 4.3's, but you're right - no one makes custom gears for the R50, the front gearset is different from any other nissan. You can source a 4.9 rear end from Xterra's that will swap in. That might make your overall setup cheapest. Definitely keep us updated on the BLOKKA. Not many reviews or install photos floating around yet.

Found this thread late, but BDS doesn't seem to support anything Nissan, based on their website. They don't make lifts for the R50 either. @Jotegir's advice above is great. Old Man Emu makes suspension, the aforementioned 2928 is a great part number. Dobinson also makes good stuff. Ironman4x4 and Automotive Customizers also makes springs for these. If you snoop around here you should be able to find builds that utilize these different options. I had AC coils, but I'm also a big proponent of the OME and the Dobinson equipment. Here's a really nice build that you might take some inspiration from: If you're not familiar with Land Rover coils as an option, those also work nicely in the rear. That's what the above build features. See what your shop likes, but if they're mostly familiar with Toyota's, our front end is not built the same way a 4runner or Tacoma works, ours is much closer to a typical sedan. You'll probably need camber bolts to get your front end alignment dialed. Here's my personal analysis of a lot of the front end coils:

Ya, if you want 3.75 backspacing, you almost always have to go down to a 15" wheel or add spacers, its just not a spec that's readily available on 16 and 17 inch wheels for the most part. Interesting, I haven't seen many at -11, but it's basically equivalent to a -12. 4.03 vs 4.07 BS

I think you're more likely to find wheels in the 16x8 -12mm, as that works out to 4" BS. I believe @Dbot has those wheels with ~32" tires on a 1.5-2" spring lift, no wheel spacers

It is common. Both my R50 and my dad's R50 had these issues during ownership. Mine would stop at about 1/2 tank intermittently. Sometimes it would read accurately for the entire tank. They act up. The R50's were both VQ35DE vehicles. Not sure of the cause or the fix, both vehicles were sold with the problem still there....

Those are the correct coils. For a completely level truck, maybe the rear AC coils. You can also cut a coil from the land rover coils to get them to sit lower, plenty of people have done that

The "heavy duty" springs are OME springs sold through Automotive Customizers. You want the 2" lift coils that they sell for the front, if you want the actual AC coils. Adding NRC9449 will result in a 1.25-1.5" difference in height. The rear will be higher. Thanks man! Glad they've helped!

The front of an R50 won't sustain much more than 2" of suspension lift, regardless of the method used. Springs are a better option for off-roading (and in general) to avoid the CV's encountering poor angles at full droop of the front suspension. Besides CV issues, it's hard to get an alignment at lifts greater than 2". Also, you're running out of downtravel and won't have much ride quality to speak of even if you could find a spring that would lift greater than 2 inches. I've seen spacers stacked on top of 2" lift springs. It kind of works, but it's not a surfire or worry-free way to lift an R50. I wouldn't get caught up on a number, whether its a 1.5" lift or 2" lift, you're still using the same basic IFS setup and all the limitations that are attached to that. Anything higher than those spring options (OME, AC, Ironman4x4, Dobinsons) will only properly be achieved with a SFD. I would keep it simple (stock) or minimal (just a spring lift) in the front to avoid headaches. Add manual hubs too.

I would just start with tires. Until you take it out and use it for exactly what you want to do, it may be hard to know exactly what you want to change 1. Use the vehicle 2. Take not of issues or inconveniences 3. Modify as needed If you know you're gonna go camping, you'll probably want a nice set of All-Terrain (not all season) tires. You can make your way up almost any forest service road on highway tires, but in emergency weather or certain situations you'll want some better tread. Go for a snow rated all-terrain. If, from there, you notice deficiencies in the suspension, address them. But, as you add more modifications you will run into areas where you may have to compromise or do additional supporting mods/maintenance. The less you add, the easier the vehicle is to drive and maintain normally. You can start with the stock wheels and a tire that measures out between 29" (stock) and about 30.5" tall and you shouldn't have any issues with rubbing. I use tiresize.com to compare tire sizes. If you're towing and need help with that weight, you might get load helper/air helper bags or go with a stiffer rear spring from old man emu, ironman4x4, etc. If you go with new springs, or with the land rover springs , you may need to lift the front with a spring to get closer to level. Here's some front coil options Manual hubs are nice for people running lift or heavier tires, and can easily be installed yourself I do not recommend lift spacers on the front or the rear suspension. It's an inferior option. Skip the brush gaurds. They're a damage multiplier imo and they usually eat into your approach and departure angles. Steel wheels are not a bad option at all. If you want to go with really tall tires (taller than 31"), look for a wheel with 3.75 backspacing. This helps push the tire away from rubbing up against the lower strut/spring perch. Tall tires at that backspacing will require trimming in almost every case. Again, I would start with just the tires. You'd be very surprised how far you can get on just a stock vehicle and some forest service roads

This setup should serve you well! Cool to see you got it all put together. Props to lokka on the 5 month shipping... lol. I think another lokka writeup would be great to have - there's so many details and moving parts, especially if you're coming into this as a novice mechanic.

They look great!

Mile Marker will not fit the 6 spoke LE wheels, Rugged Ridge will though

The OME 2928 coil spring often nets lift in the range of 1.5" of lift when first installed, as its a spring that's designed to provide 0.5" of lift when paired with a heavier aftermarket steel bumper and winch. Putting a 2928 on a stock pathfinder is what causes the coil to lift 1.5" instead of 0.5". The OME 2923 is the same idea, but under a lighter load than the 2928. Other than buying stock replacement coils off of rockauto or wherever else, the OME 2923 coil will be the lowest lifting option for you. I'm not very familiar with exactly how much lift people get out of this coil when put on a stock vehicle, but I would guess about 0.75-1". Here's a good resource on the OME coils and a decent place to buy them from: https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/Nissan-pathfinder-coil-springs-R50.html If your springs are currently shot, you may be sitting well below stock height. If you went with the OME 2923 and also got a set of their medium duty rear coils (OME 2922) that might be a good solution for keeping the vehicle level and riding good. OME makes great springs. Otherwise, take a gamble on some stock-replacement coils. I do not know a reputable or well-liked brand for stock replacement springs, perhaps others do.