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evan55

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Posts posted by evan55

  1. On 12/18/2019 at 9:41 PM, Darrow12 said:

    How did you get the rear springs to fit?  One end of the jgc spring is a smaller diameter than the other end.  I am doing a similar suspension set up to yours and I am not sure how to put the new rear springs in.  Thank you.

    Cut the pigtail end off. I used a zip disc on an angle grinder.

  2. On 9/22/2019 at 9:31 PM, Darrow12 said:

    What size rims and tires are on your pathfinder when you posted this topic right after your lift?  I want to lift it and get new tires, but I don’t know if I need to get bigger rims and tires or just bigger tires.  I like the way your tires fill the wheel well, which is why I am asking you.

     

    31x10.5R15 BFG KO2s on stock lego wheels

  3. On 9/16/2019 at 11:31 AM, adamzan said:

    Take it into a good fastener store and they should be able to find the right ones. You'll want a grade 10.9 nut as well.

    Looking back now, I don't think the nuts I purchased are 10.9. The store didn't have any grade 8 or 10 nuts in this size. Is it really necessary to have a grade 8 or 10 nut ? Just wondering if I need to pull these nyloc ones off now.. 

  4. I'm still finding the UCA spindle nuts are loosening up as I mentioned above with pics.

     

    I did blue loctite on the nuts and retorqued them to spec, and when driving down rough forest roads I had to tighten the nuts every couple miles because they were about to fall off!

     

    I think I'm just going to buy new nuts and lock washers and try that. Any idea what the nuts are, M14 x1.5? Same as the uca bolts?

     

    Thanks!

  5. Yeah I think I'm going to drive it as-is for a while since it drives fine. Steering wheel has always had about 1/2" of play. I also need time to save up for the CL, TREs, and idler arm.

     

    In your experience, which steering parts are the first to go? Centerlink? And is it something that gets gradually worse overtime? I'm trying to plan what to look out for. I'd hate to be suddenly stranded.

  6. Swing out tire carrier can be found at the junkyard. Bring a sawzall to cut open the outside sheetmetal to pull the brackets off. There's a thread on this if you search Google.

     

    Check local classified for roof racks. I bought a used Yakima rack that fit onto my bare roof (no factory roof rails) you will need Yakima Q20 door clips.

     

    For the lift adjust your torsion bars in the front and buy Rough Country UCAs that are meant for the Hardbody. You have to call and ask for just the arms and not the whole kit, as the rear components for the Hardbody will not work on the Pathfinder. For the rear, Jeep grand cherokee springs and longer shocks.

    Do a search on Google, there's quite a few threads with good info 

     

     

     

  7. I will definitely get an idler arm brace, either the 4x4 parts brace, or make my own. 

     

    The grassroots centerlink looks pretty beefy. I don't plan on doing a lot of hard offroading. I'm mostly going to use the pathfinder for overlanding and light trails. Do you think a stock replacement centerlink would be fine for that?

  8. So after driving around for a couple days I re-torqued everything with the wheels on the ground. Today I did a check after a drive on a bumpy forest road and 1 spindle nut on the UCA was about to fall off and the others were a tiny bit loose. I re-torqued both spindle nuts on each side of the pathfinder to 65 ft/lbs. (FSM specs 52-76 ft/lbs.). I took it for another drive and the nuts seemed to have loosened up again.

     

    I figured after cycling the suspension and re-torquing these nuts a few times already they shouldn't be loose anymore. Do you guys have any suggestions? The only thing I can think of is backing the nuts off a bit and applying some blue loctite to the threads.

     

    WaDqkZ.jpg

     

     

  9. 2 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:

    Looks like all they adjusted was the toe. The slight changes on the camber and caster is what you will get from setting the toe. Many shops don't know how or are unwilling to adjust the camber and caster or will charge extra for those. 

    From the numbers, I would expect a pull to the left while driving, but if you are not, take the win. 

     

    With the spaces at the bump stops, that is actually where the front hight measurements are performed. If you are happy with the way it is driving and looking, I wouldn't worry too much about the space difference.

    Right, that makes sense they just adjusted the toe. The shop seemed a bit hesitant about touching the camber/caster as they didn't even know which shims to use.

     

    There is no pull to the left thankfully. It drives great so far, and feels good offroad too. I think I'll leave it as-is and maybe lower it a touch in the future once I need to do the center link, tie rods, and idler arm.

  10. On 7/22/2019 at 7:36 PM, Cuong Nguyen said:

    Removing the shim will help with the positive camber. When you crank up the torsion bars it lift the front which pulls the tierods in closer giving you neg toe.
    You can do a diy alignment to get thr alignment closer to spec until get it professionally done.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
     

    Thanks again for the info. I got it aligned today at the shop. Everything is now within spec except for caster which is a bit out. The pathfinder drives pretty good overall. My only concern is the ride height is even on both sides but the driver side UCA is 1/16" from the bumpstop and the passenger side UCA is 1/2" from the bumpstop. Not sure what could be causing this difference from side to side.

  11. Hey guys,

     

    I just finished installing a suspension lift on my pathfinder. Front is new Rough Country UCA's with Rancho RS5214 shocks. Rear is JGC V8 springs, which I just bought new (MOOG CC782) and Rancho RS5116 shocks. In the front I adjusted the torsion bars to give a 1.5" lift, and the rear springs gave me 2.5 inch of lift.

     

    I think I need to raise the front a bit more to match the rear, but the issue is the UCA's are 1/4" from touching the bumpstops. Maybe I need lower profile upper bumpstops? any ideas?

     

    Also the front has excessive positive camber, hopefully the alignment shop can get it back in spec.

     

    WyJCNT.jpg

     

    WyJ63z.jpg

     

    WyJkg5.jpg

    • Like 2
  12. Hey guys,

     

    I've been on the forum for a while but haven't posted much. Here is my 1994 with 220,000 kms that I have been slowly fixing up. It is pretty much stock at the moment, other than the hardbody front end. Next up is a 3" lift. I'm thinking RC control arms, and JGC springs for the rear.

     

    WPJAdK.jpg

     

    WPJWMZ.jpg

     

    WPJiaP.jpg

     

    WPJIzi.jpg

    • Like 3
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