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JackFletcher last won the day on June 13 2019

JackFletcher had the most liked content!

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About JackFletcher

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    NPORA Regular
  • Birthday 07/26/2002

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2004 LE Platinum
  • Place of Residence
    Johns Creek, Georgia
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
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  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
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    United States

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438 profile views
  1. agreed use a multimeter or take it to a auto parts store sounds like a alternator starting to go
  2. In 4LO there is a significant difference at idle for me. She will basically go imma say up to 6mph without even touching the gas. When i do give it some throttle I feel what you mean. She will rev up with no power response for a few seconds until you get around 1700rpm . I wish it wasnt a pain to convert to a cable throttle.
  3. It has been universally agreed here on the forum that if you are going the spacers route, a reputable company to get them from is SFcreations. To answer your question, No you wont need a spring compressor to do the rear but you will have to unbolt one side of the shocks so you can lower the axle enough to unseat the coil. It would be a good idea to get some longer shocks but it will be fine with the stock ones. On another note, it is also universally agreed on the forum that the coil spring lifts are much better than spacers for off road use because spacers can screw up your cvs. I have the 2in AC lift in the front which was $280 and the LR 9449 spings in the back which were $70 if you include shipping. I am happy with them both and they are a better option for you in the long run.
  4. I have had no topping out issues with the AC lift. Had it for about 3-4 months now. I have noticed it is still settling in. I tucked 33s and it seems each week I trim, the suspension will settle again and I need to trim more. With that being said you wont have the same issues with 32's. I am very pleased with the NRC 9449 coils in the rear as is everyone that tried them.
  5. Well first off im assuming you know but the 3.5 is a VQ engine which means most people would say they sound awful. Personally I dont think they sound that terrible like in this video it sounds pretty good imo I havent heard of anyone taking their cats off on the R50 but I bet there is 1 or 2 people that could tell you more. I am currently running a resonator delete and a magnaflow. Sounds really good when the engines cold but other than that it sounds relativity stock.
  6. This is so cool, I never would of thought it would come together and look this good! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Y’all think it would be a bad move to put the pro comps on my daily? Or will I be good with the hub rings? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Damm aight thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I went in to 4WP today cause I couldn’t find those steel wheels you bought online. They said that they were discontinued a few weeks back. Does anyone know where I could get my hands on those 15 by 8 Steelies? I am gonna be pissed if I have to spend big money on aluminum wheels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I can't speak to your 3.3 but I do know most high mileage oil is basically the same as the normal oil, but with some seal additives and maybe more friction reducers. With that being said there is nothing wrong with moving up to the highmileage especially considering you got 200k.
  11. Update: I found some info in a Maxima Forum. It sounds like the code is due to the A/T control unit not getting enough voltage. I replaced my battery yesterday just cause I needed a new one, we’ll see if that does anything but I doubt it. On another note, I saw this plug going into my transmission and it is near where my rear main seal is about to go out. I was hoping you guys could tell me what that plug is for and maybe if it could have something to do with the control unit. Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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