Mythstae

Thank you! Adding tweeters cleanly to a door usually goes pretty smoothly... I just hate the look of aftermarket speaker grills.

It is worth mentioning, by the way, if your interior panels don't look like mine (XE trim package maybe?) I don't know if the 6.5s will fit. The speaker covers SEEM to be slightly smaller. I don't know for sure if they actually ARE smaller.

Thanks, Slartibartfast! I also hope the adhesive holds up. There's a similar issue on Metros, the 1995-1997 (and early 1998) dash plastic turns white and begins degrading. The only way to fix it is to swap the whole dash from a 1998-2001 car.

6.5" round speakers will fit in the doors, under the factory grills. Here's the thread for that: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/44060-65-round-speakers-1995-se/

Next up, installation! It mounts just like it should, but we knew that - it's a modified factory mount! ...Well. I ought to have painted those mounts black before installation. Every project needs a little duct tape, right? That's better. While I'm in there, covered up the vent in the door panel. One piece of black duct tape, upside down, stretched taut with the pieces on the end... Covered up with two pieces the other way. Nothing sticky exposed now! And last unrelated side project while I was there, replaced the door handle trim, because mine looked pretty gross.

Here is what I did to fit 6.5" round speakers in my front doors! Take the template for the speaker, and line up the screw holes. Mark the edges of the hole. Everything filled in with black will need removed, for the speaker to properly fit in the mount. Staging a dramatic in-progress selfie is not an integral part of the process. A lot of cleaning up needs to happen, but we're getting there! This tab may or may not have needed to be removed, but I did take it off both speaker mounts. The speaker was just a little too deep to fit in the mount. I discovered this little dot on the backside, which was very helpful for the next step... Hole saw, for magnet clearance! I don't like how close those wires are to the edge of the plastic, if they end up rubbing for some reason they could break. As before, sharpied the area to be removed. Clearance slot! Perfect! As you can see, it does not stick out past the original mount; so you are guaranteed that it will not interfere with your window. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/800/39210823260_074cd5616e_o.jpg I was pleasantly surprised to see this nasty old foam peeled right off. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/792/40310756184_b6b441ae77_o.jpg And everything lines up as it should!

Did you buy ovals, or rounds, though? Because I bought rounds. Like, yes, I know that the factory speakers are oval; I knew before I bought the replacements. I wanted round ones, knowing I'd probably need to mod.

I've bought speakers already, just haven't installed. May need to modify to fit; Crutchfield says they won't. We'll see.

Shockingly decent, considering I'm still using the OEM speakers... Which have dissolved at the edges!

In fact, the funny part about reinstalling the bypass harness in the original amp case, is that, once you put the cases back where they normally go... you can't hardly tell anything has been done!

These are the capacitors I bought. Don't. They're polarized, and every other guide I read says to use non-polarized capacitors in this application. But, wait. More reading says you can connect them in series (attach the negatives) and they become non-polarized. Cool! But, wait. When you connect capacitors in series, they are worth half the value. But, wait. When you connect capacitors in parallel, they're worth double. So if I... connect 2 caps in series... and do that again... and then connect those, in parallel... I effectively have, "one cap", for the original value of a single cap, and now it's non-polarized? Well, I sure hope it works that way, because that's the thing I did! Reinstalling the harness plug in the amp case is not required. It's what I did; you don't have to.

Also, not knowing how the grounding might work, I avoided touching the metal cage with the ends of the terminals. Add your shrink tube... (Can you tell my favorite color is purple?) Pair your wires, according to the diagram, and solder them together. Shrink tube those, too. If you don't want to keep your tweeters, you can do both harnesses this way, and you'll be done.

First thing to do is to carefully remove the plug from your amplifier's circuit board. Next, take the plug off of a harness from something else, to get some wires with terminal ends. What did the plug come from? I dunno. I chopped it off a car in a junkyard. Straighten your pins, probably trim them shorter. They are longer than you need. After you put the donor wires onto your pins, it looks something like this. Get to soldering! It is easier to solder these on than you'd think. They may be open on top and bottom, but the solder likes to cling to the sides, so you just kind of fill in the box...

Yes, that's right! Another amplifier bypass thread! But mine... is different. Kinda. Before we start: I have a 1995 Pathfinder; SE. I have the "8-speaker" system: 2 tweeters in the A-Pillars, 2 speakers in the doors, 2 speakers in the rear roof, and 2 tweeters in the rear roof. This guide was written for mine. If you have different equipment, this guide very probably will not help you. Does some of the wiring have the same application on other models? Maybe, but I don't own any others, so I have no idea. So, I drew inspiration from: The Factory Service Manual Slartibartfast's guide: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35837-how-to-bypass-the-factory-amps-step-by-step/ adamzan's guide (which was itself sourced from elsewhere): http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/24612-how-to-bypass-factory-amps-in-your-clarion-equipped-nissan/ Some information on tweeters from NICO club: forums.nicoclub.com/factory-tweeter-mod-t443885.html And here's what I ended up with. First, is the way I did it, the "only" way to do it? No, absolutely not. Secondly, is it the "best" way? No! I'm sure it isn't! Well, then... why did I do it this way? Because I wanted to retain the use of my tweeters (like Slartibartfast did) but not cut the original factory wiring (like adamzan). Therefore, a hybrid solution was in order. For reference, the factory diagram may be useful to some of you. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4536/27106255909_cd9b180cb5_o.gif It wasn't terribly useful to me; I'm confused by Nissan diagrams. Moving along. Here are the diagrams that I made. They tell you wire colors, wire functions, and which wire to hook to which other wire. You'd be able to use this as a guide if you want to just cut and solder the original wires, instead of taking apart the amps to get the plug. And if that's the way you want to do this, go right ahead! There is more to this guide, but the diagrams are the most important part. I will update this later with reference photos, etc, when my internet stops being so uncooperative.

Took off the passenger side interior plastics, sighed in disgust at the mouse nest, removed nest, removed amps, put back the little clear box (??) that shared a bracket with the little amp, disassembled amp housings.

Replaced my map lights today! Here are the bulbs I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DNMX832/ They're amazing! I had to pinch the metal housing thing a bit flatter, mine were a little loose and the bulb could fall out of contact and stop working. Once I flattened the circle to more of an oval, they stay in contact no problem. Next step, super bright dome light...

How strange! I used a Ford wiring diagram when I was installing a Ford factory stereo in a Metro; I found it very easy to read!

The only one? Well, surely not... but you may be in the minority

Success! At least, of a preliminary sort. I'm not very good at reading the Nissan wiring diagrams. They make my head hurt. But between the factory diagram, Slartibartfast's thread, and adamzan's thread, I've now got a color coded, function coded, wire-for-wire guide. Now I just need to choose what I'm going to do, precisely, to get rid of the amps, and we'll be in the clear!

I can't stand the look of my legos; I replaced them with different wheels... ...but if I had seen this before I did that, I might have been tempted to paint them, like you did. They look GREAT.

Yeah, we get that sort of reaction a lot. I razz the Metros and Swifts, too, but my Metros are pretty precious to me... They are the kind of vehicle on which my Dad taught me how to work on cars. Irreplaceable memories... Golly, you're in Grays Harbor? I'm south of you, but in driving distance. Might have to say hello one day!

Well, that's good, at least...

Pics come as the work progresses. I really like the FJ wheels, myself - couldn't stand the Legos.

It was pretty awful, yeah. The green side is the one that faced north! It sat for a good 6 years in more or less the same spot. Like my FJ wheels?

Greetings from Washington State! I have a 1995 Pathfinder, SE V6 4x4 Manual Transmission. It had the dreaded "Transmission Whine". I located a replacement transmission from a 1997 model (with the higher fill-plug location on the case), and had a shop go over it, and install it for me. Now I've got a 4x4 vehicle to drive this winter; a relief as I had to commute to work in a very crunchy Suzuki Swift last year. I'm doing lots of work fixing her up, and the current ordeal is an aftermarket stereo. Guess I need to bypass my amplifiers. I found Slartibartfast's helpful thread here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35837-how-to-bypass-the-factory-amps-step-by-step/ I'm trying to work together a handy dandy diagram of "what wire goes where" before I start tearing off body panels. Unfortunately for me, Nissan's Factory Service Manual isn't quite as easy to read as a Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift FSM, which is what I'm used to. But, I'll persevere! I've got a thread of my build progress on http://geometroforum.com/ (Yes, really, I'm a Moderator there) If anybody cares to look, the thread is here: http://geometroforum.com/topic/8160317/