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KiwiTerrano last won the day on September 1

KiwiTerrano had the most liked content!

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About KiwiTerrano

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    NPORA Veteran

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1997 JDM R50 Terrano G3M-R Ltd (QD32ETI), 2007 NZDM Nissan Pathfinder Ti VQ40DE
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Country
    New Zealand

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. But you don't really need a 4" lift. With a 2" spring lift in the front and 33" tyres, I have 350 mm clearance under both diffs, which is really plenty. I've not needed any more than that.
  2. It should fit the front but the problem will be lifting the rear - maximum spring lift is 2", then you need to drop the subframe as well. You'll also need longer brake lines to match in the rear. PSR in Aussie do a rear subframe drop kit and so do Calmini.
  3. Agreed. If it blew a head gasket, it must have gotten hot? Therefore I would focus on cooling system maintenance. Depending on mileage, you could also replace the water pump whilst you have the timing gear off as that requires removal of timing chain to do. Definitely completely replace all the timing gear. I would also check or replace the thermostat, and remove the radiator and wash it out from the back side to remove debris from the fins, and give it a good internal flushing too. While you're there, replace the entire belt drive system - all pulleys, belt and tensioner. Ensure the belt is the correct length as these vehicles are quite sensitive to the wrong length belt and/or a bad tensioner. Could also replace the viscous fan hub too while you're there. Definitely bypass the in-radiator trans lines and fit an external cooler. Will help your vehicle run cooler on a hot day. Could replace the cam sensors too if you're really keen as they're another failure point. Ensure you have bled the system properly - surprisingly difficult due to the rear heater setup. In terms of performance mods, I find the VQ40 to have quite acceptable performance in standard trim. You could replace the spark plugs too, as they require removing the intake manifold to do so may as well kill that bird since you've got it apart.
  4. Don't change the radiator. Just bypass the trans cooler pipe in it and fit a proper external cooler.
  5. It's really straightforward. Once you get the skidplate off it's pretty obvious what hose goes where
  6. I would also recommend upgrading suspension. I run 35 mm King lift springs, standard rate, with Bilstein dampers. Very good all round package. King springs can be bought cheaply off Ebay. Bilstein shocks can be bought for a very good price off Rockauto.com I use Rockauto to source almost all of my parts.
  7. The R51 is pretty reliable. My main recommendation would be to bypass the in radiator transmission lines. I've done this with mine. Took about ten minutes to reroute the trans fluid lines to bypass the radiator and only run through the factory external trans cooler. If yours doesn't have an external trans cooler I would also recommend fitting one at the same time. I believe both the petrol and diesel engines used have timing chains not belts so shouldn't hav any problems there. Just use high quality oil and service religiously. When purchasing any secondhand vehicle I always like to get all the fluids changed (coolant, brakes, diffs, gearbox and transfer) to ensure I know exactly what's in there. Personally I run Penrite oils in my r51. The penrite ATF covers both Nismatic D and J standards. The transfer case takes D standard ATF and the trans takes J standard. Other than requiring a couple of O2 sensors and catalytic converters, and one exhaust manifold cracking, my r51 VQ40DE has been totally reliable from brand new (my father bought it new in 2007) to its current 200,000 kms. A lot of what you hear online is disgruntled owners who've had problems. When maintained properly a Japanese vehicle should be very reliable.
  8. The ATTESA 4wd system uses a small torque converter with a lockup clutch to split power to the front wheels. Therefore, the maximum torque split to the front is 50%. The rear end is always directly and mechanically driven, so even if you accidentally stick it in AUTO with the front hubs unlocked you won't notice any loss of drive. It may damaged the transfer if you left it in for too long though. When in low range, there is a locking spline inserted that mechanically locks the transfer into a 50:50 torque split. So if you're in low box already, even if all the electrics crap out you're still mechanically centre locked and in low box. Trouble might be disengaging it... Personally I've never had any troubles with the 4-mode system in either my r50 or r51 Pathies. My R50 was the older design with the dial for 2wd auto and lock, and the lever for low box though. The QX4 is mechanically identical.
  9. The urban model is just a trim spec. I believe they're still 4wd. Some of them are manuals too, although the manual only came with the TD27. Difficult to manual swap a turbo QD32ETI Terrano as unlike NA QD32s and all TD27s, they had a 7 bolt flywheel not a 6 bolt. IDK why, guess it's the higher torque figure.
  10. Went out again last weekend, led a trip to the Coast with the Land Rover Club. Link to a video of the trip is below.
  11. I think longer end links would fix the problem. Another inch or so would make all the difference.
  12. 200,000 km service today. Spark plugs replaced Oil and filter Transfer case drained and refilled New front struts (Bilstein 5100 with adjustable perch). Old shocks were OEM which at 200 thou were pretty stuffed and not up to it with the bullbar on. Rear shocks were replaced when the lift springs went in 50,000 kms ago. I will also need to fit extended upper ball joints (available from PSR in aussie) as that upper angle is bad...

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