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Posts posted by RainGoat
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From a technical standpoint, I can’t add anything to the gurus above. To the uninitiated, I can’t emphasize enough how much it matters HOW you drive your truck. I have 2 R50s with the AWD option & I love it for packed snow, sand, dirt, gravel & road travel in wet or snowy weather. I also have a 2018 4Runner & have a bit of buyer’s remorse that it only has part-time 4WD, especially on paved roads with varying traction.
In particular, I caution anyone new to all this & used to the LE transmission - drive a Lokka equipped truck before you put one on your truck. There will undoubtedly be a wide variety of opinion but I personally did not like the feel of the Lokka on road at all. It’s an opinion & not shared by all, but I wouldn’t want it on a daily driver or something that saw a lot of road time - it was noticeably stiff & quirky. A dedicated or highly off road truck would be a different situation entirely.
I sold my Lokka & found a front ARB locker. That and one of Hawarish’s super-packed rear LSDs are waiting to go on my Pathy. As much fun as the Pathy is, I just spent ~18mo with my QX4 all over Southern OR & Northern Northern California & that rear LSD works great for the vast majority of offroad exploring & camping I usually do. Of course, I’m fortunate to have the ‘02 LSD. Each truck has its pros & cons. It was refreshing to get back into an OEM+ R50 & see just how capable & pleasant it was to drive.- 1
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. Dreaded multi-post
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Interesting. I may dig back into it.
I’ll ask Towndawg how his is holding up…I’ll see him in 5 minutes, lol.
Ha, are you in town? -
Generally speaking, we’re probably a VERY unlikely target. The primaries are essentially inaccessible, the secondaries less so but the Cats are just about as depleted of the metals they want. One of the reasons a Prius is such a target is that their. Cats are extremely lightly used. Admittedly, these thief’s aren’t mental giants but it’s generally accepted that newer vehicles are the best targets.
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Way back in ‘03 I fried the dimmer on my ‘02. I replaced it with one from a JY but carried around a little wire with shoes on each end in order to do the bypass @slartbartfast discussed
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I can take some dimensions if that would help you.
When convenient, if you could just measure your Duratracs for an actual diameter. Tires often aren’t the size the tire calculators say they should be - manufacturer variance I suppose. Unfortunately, they’re usually smaller - which won’t help me in your case but might if Toyo runs small.
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Hmm, that’s disappointing to hear. Definitely means the 30.9” is out. Now I’m worried about the 30.6”. The next largest size is the stock 245/65R17 (29.5”) - it would be nice to go up a little. Did you actually measure your Duratracs to see if their actual size matched their calculated size? I can’t imagine the AWD will like a different diameter tire & we usually have 1-2 hours of mountain highway driving to access the Cascadesmy tires are goodyear duratracs 265/70/16 (30.6") and they wouldn't fit so I got a spare 245/75/16 (30.45") of another brand and it fit fine, had to tuck it under the hitch first and then it wouldn't rub the panhard bar, probably 1/2" clearance as stated -
Here we go again….
I’m looking to find the largest 17” rim tire that will fit in the stock location underneath, with an OEM hitch. Reportedly the limit is 31”. I know a 265/70R17 (stock 5th Gen T4R tire) most definitely will not fit.
I’m getting Toyo AT3s for my Q & these are my options:
Wt Tread Dia Width Tire Size Speed/Load
35 13.0 30.9 9.3 P235/75R17 108S/SL
35 13.1 30.6 9.8 245/70R17 110T/SL
42 16.1 30.6 9.8 LT245/70R17 119/116/RE
37 13.2 31.1 10.2 255/70R17 112T/SL
38 13.3 30.6 10.7 265/65R17 116T/XL
https://www.toyotires.com/product/open-country-at3/
1st Choice: P235/75R17 closest to 31”- ?fit?
2nd Choice: 245/70R17
265/65R17 should fit but I’m not sure that the XL load rating won’t mean it’s too stiff. SL & XL are both 4 ply but the XL requires more pressure at Max Load - which, honestly, is counterintuitive to me.
I think the 255/70R17 will be too big
I think the LT245/70R17 will be too stiff as this truck is usually unloaded
Has ANYONE out there tried a P235/75R17?
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Good to know, I just had to replace the front bumper and it was not easy finding parts for a '97. Eventually found them probably won't be able to next time.
I believe it’s written up on the NPORA forum in@ferrariowner123 build thread.@micahfelker now owns it. -
Mile Marker will not fit the 6 spoke LE wheels, Rugged Ridge will though
Thanks for catching that-I keep getting them mixed up. I’ll edit the original so I don’t lead anyone astray.
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Taste wise I’m with you on brown but I’ve seen some that ended up looking pretty decent when paired with black.
Yeah, the Q is my traveler, solo explorer & will take trailering, hauling & winter duty from the Pathy when I get it back home. I’m not 100% sure the rear is sagging & the ride is absolutely fine, I just REALLY liked the LRs. I’m unlikely to bother changing it anytime soon. Also, while i like a little rake, the Q’s headlight aim doesn’t tolerate it well at all.
I’m not the right guy for the powertrain issues. Just sharing my tidbit. There are lots more people on here more knowledgeable about that stuff than me. (Though it is possible I’ve logged the most years & miles on the ATX14A).
I LOVE the 6 spoke LE wheels. It turns out they look great on the Q too - I expect that’s where they will stay. My only motivator for manual hubs would be to replace CVs easier. I offroad carefully & I’ve never had a problem with the auto hubs or broken a CV. I definitely won’t change out the LE wheels just to put manual hubs on - especially now that they’ll live on the Q. I’m probably sticking with two sets of Toyota wheels for the Pathy. I think the manual hubs [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] kindly gave me will fit through their hubs - though I haven’t measured.
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@TowndawgR50 did a front end swap between a prefacelift (‘96 I think) & an ‘03.
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Nice “re”writeup. Looks like your priorities are all in order. If you’re that deep again, consider replacing the knock sensor - it’s down there in the valley. I can’t quite tell if you have a faded light brown or a faded KY0 bright chrome? Unbelievable that you have a cat that will peacefully ride up there - any car ride has always been a loud yowlfest with any cat I’ve owned.
Did you mount the LR9447s? I too have the KYB Excel-G & ARB OME HD up front on my Q. I initially tried the LR9449s but while they rode GREAT, they were just too high. I switched to a very used set of ARB OME MD springs in the rear. That leveled the truck but they’re not quite as robust as the LR springs & occasionally look like they may be a bit droopy in the rear.
I’m not sure I 100% follow regarding the ATX14A’s behavior but remember the auto hubs need som forward movement to engage. If I’m ever prepping for snow in the am, I always drive it forward a few feet after engaging either the AWD or 4Hi to be sure the hubs are locked. Obviously you can get around this with manual hubs but only Rugged Ridge hubs will fit through the 6 spoke LE wheel hubs.
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Cleaned out my rocker panel drains. I’ve been getting sloshing when I drive after the truck has been sitting in the rain. Not surprisingly, it was a pine needle that was the culprit. -
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Those are some really nice photos!- 1
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Alternatively, I left my original line in place (cut off the plug & sensor) & then zip tied to it. Not all the aftermarket O2 sensors have the clips or the clips in the right place.
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Yeah, I had to switch out some Britpart NRC9449 for OME MD & while it leveled my truck, the LR springs actually had a slightly better ride than the OME.
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FYI, I don’t see the DM. There are really only 2 Amazon links there - both work for me but you can just type the description into Amazon & it should pull them up. I note the Nolethane poly for the sway bar links has a “like new” for only $14. You’ll only really need 4/truck (as opposed to the 8 in a pack) so I’d buy that in a heartbeat. The links I had came with bushings but we liked these better. I also reused the OEM link washers that went next to the bushing because we liked the way it “cupped” the bushing better.
In viewing it again I noted it was missing some of the strut rebuild stuff so I pulled that off the Pathy’s notes (hence the ARB struts). There’s some debate regarding KYB &/or other aftermarket strut bearing failures so, personally, I’d buy the OEM strut bearing. I also reused the OEM top hat instead of the aftermarket one. My OEM original still looked to be in good condition & it has that spacer welded onto the top hat - as you’ll see on the pics above. Not having a spacer at all will lead to strut failure - we’ve seen it 2-3 times so far. For OEM parts definitely shop around, one I figure in tax & shipping it always seems to be a different site than last time that has the best deal.
Post a pic or two as you go along…
ARB Old Man Emu Struts N145S(L) & N146S® $210/@4WP/Desert Rat
ARB Brake Line Clips $19.70@Desert Rat
OEM Replacement Parts
Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2
Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2
Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2
Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [qx4] $22.50=$11.25x2
$173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com
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Actually, I guess I have my notes right here:
SUSPENSION
FRONT:
KYB Excel-G Strut, Front Left, 4WD [335033] $57.79
KYB Excel-G Strut, Front Right, 4WD [335032] $57.79
KYB Strut Bellow [sB129] $21.60($10.80 x2)
Moog Stabilizer Bar End Link / Bushing, Rear 4WD [K80435] $34.84($17.42x2)
Moog Stabilizer Bar End Link / Bushing, Front [K90659] $34.64($17.32x2)
Both links have zerts & are greasable (2 in front, 1 in rear)
$ 263.50($ -$10.33 5% Discount+$42.99s+$24.18t)@RockAuto
Pathfinder Front Center Sway Bar Bushing Kit [sPPUPFCSBB] $22.50
Unable to get ARB Old Man Emu Struts N145S(L) & N146 $210
N146S out of stock nationally - 2 arriving 9/10/21
ARB Brake Line Clips $19.70@Desert Rat
Specialty Products Company 81260 Alignment Kit $20.36($18.49+$1.87) 8/5/12
Adjustable to +/- 1.75*Camber
REAR:
Reconditioned 2002 Pathfinder LE Rear Trailing arms & panhard
Complete Split Design Trailing Arm Bushing Kit [sPACTRBSH96PFWBCOM] $222.00
Pathfinder Rear Pan Hard Rod Bushings [sPPER50PHRBUSH]
+ Pan Hard Rod Bolt Kit which replaces Factory Bolt (+$7)$72.00
Pathfinder Front Center Sway Bar Bushing Kit [sPPUPFCSBB] $22.50
Pathfinder Rear Center Sway Bar Bushings [sPAC96CSBBUSH] $19.50
$410.63($351+$59.63s)@Automotive Customizers(AC), 4x4Parts
Moog Stabilizer Bar End Link / Bushing, Rear 4WD [K80435] $34.84($17.42x2)
Nolethane REV006.0028 Black Sway Bar Link Bushing (Front) $23.41+t
ARB OME Heavy Load Spring (110-220#) [2928] 0.5" Lift $167@Desert Rat
Nissan Seat-Rubber, Front Spring [540340W020] $12.05x4
Nissan Seat-Rubber, Front Spring [540340W010] $10.46x4
Ordered 8, received 3(2x540340W020 & 1 540340W010
Pathfinder Rear Center Sway Bar Bushings [sPAC96CSBBUSH] $19.50
$410.63($351+$59.63s)@Automotive Customizers(AC), 4x4Parts
If you can replace the front A-Arm bushings with poly (from AC), it will have a very nice effect; however, @‘02_Pathy & [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] both report it’s a bitch - especially to remove the old ones. Consequently, I own the bushings but haven’t gotten around to it yet (that’s a common theme for me).
Removing the rear trailing arm & panhard bushings is also a bear. I reconditioned my Pathy ones for the Q. I was able to get a shop guy to do it off the books after hours, otherwise it was prohibitively expensive.[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] pressed in my panhard bushings. The split bushings from AC were easy as pie to install. Oh, definitely buy the bolts - removing your rear trailing arms inevitably requires cutting some & is a notably difficult job. Again, I was fortunate to have the experience & skill of [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] to remove mine on both trucks - it is not a job I could have realistically done myself. Also, if you assemble the front springs yourself, get the new style compressor - they’re far easier & safer to use & even a newbie can do it safely (me).
(This is just an example I pulled off Amazon: 8MILELAKE Macpherson Strut Spring Compressor Kit Interchangeable Fork Coil Extractor Tool Set https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DP2CDJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XXHDT3RE4W5RY2Y2G4RV)
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Traveling today -I can get it together along with the sway bar links I bought & I’m happy with - they’ll go on my Pathy next.
I’m not an expert on Polyurethane but I’ve gathered enough info to know there’s a notable & predictable difference in the firmness & quality of different brands. I’m always in favor of value so I looked elsewhere but ultimately came to the conclusion based on the advice if those more knowledgeable than myself that the SuperPro at AC/Automotive Customizers/4x4 parts are the best choice. I have a personal distaste for the company as I don’t generally feel they give good value (especially on shipping) & I very much dislike that their springs are a complete unknown-simply bought on faith (though now with a reasonable track record). So, it’s saying something that the Lion’s share of my poly-for both trucks-is from them. The split trailing arm bushings are incredibly easy to install.
Regarding alignment & struts. I have no idea if this is generally true but my experience was that the Pathy with ARB OME HD springs & struts & a 100# bumper (now 170# with the winch) tracked perfectly after the install whereas the Q with ARB OME HD springs & KYB Excel-G struts had visible camber & somewhat frightening oversteer. I didn’t need camber bolts on the Pathy but they solved my problem on the Q (they’re listed above)
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Two import things to know with the front suspension. Also, fix your Power Valves if you haven’t already
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Well this blows... Hoping I can get it repaired or at least full value...
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
So sorry to see this! What terrible luck. Hopefully it’s salvageable