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RainGoat

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Everything posted by RainGoat

  1. Generally speaking, 6 years is “old” & when manufacturers recommend replacement. Everybody agrees at 10 years. Many national chains won’t work on tires that are over 5 years old. I’m surprised those “new tires” are that old & I’d be disappointed. If they were free or I already had them, no biggie. Personally, since I keep tires a long time, I would consider complaining & asking for something newer or a substantial discount. I’d use the point that you drive your vehicle low miles but won’t be able to get those tires serviced in about 3 years. That said, I’m still rolling on Toyo ATII from the 41st week of 2013. Admittedly,[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] was noting the other day that my rubber has some visual signs of age.
  2. Interestingly, those additional bags don’t really seem like a great idea to me. They will make install significantly worse, will undoubtedly degrade in a relatively short time (compared to 10+ years with the bags alone), and it seems to me they may effect performance negatively. That said, I suppose none of those are certain or terrible detractors- I just wouldn’t pay more for them. BTW, I threaded the fill Schrader valve through the lower inside lip of my rear bumper where it was easy to access & out of sight. Also, since it’s a low volume system, I kept a palm sized bicycle CO2 inflator in my glove box for rapid fills. After having them for years, I could eyeball it. Also, I found that I would use them to pop my tail up when offroad for a better departure angle.
  3. I ran AirLift 1000s for over 15yrs (plus another decade + on my Mom’s 2006 JGC). My experience was that they do everything they say & the ~$100 USD are their selling point. (I would also note that while both vehicles suffered a couple failures over those years, it only took a call or an email & the company sent a full replacement free of charge). That said, they require vigilance. You need to make sure you keep their minimal inflation up or they can get pinched or slightly out of place & damage the neck. Also, be careful while inflating them as they are a low volume system. One short distraction & you blow & have to diagnose the system. As an FYI, you’ll need to drill the hole in the spring perch a bit bigger to accommodate the fill neck. For safety’s sake, I would also do a single fill line so that you don’t end up with an unbalanced suspension due to an occult failure on one side. Personally, I left my bump stops in place in case of failure on the trail as well - this had no apparent detrimental effect. We can get the Britpart LR springs delivered from England to the USvWest Coast for $85 USD so, personally, having had both, and being a long term owner, I’d go with the advice of [mention=41155]R50JR[/mention]
  4. Yeah, now is a good time to start harvesting spares. Most of this stuff isn’t made anymore & R50s are probably at or past their JY apex.
  5. If you have rubbing, instead of cutting the fender liner out (which will fill with mud & debris), consider deforming the plastic with a heat gun. Another alternative is to make 2 little holes & use a zip tie behind the fender to pull the liner farther away. Also, see if you can adjust where the liner connects below, again pulling the liner away. These are all common fixes used in T4Rs & should work here as well.
  6. If you have rubbing, instead of cutting the fender liner out (which will fill with mud & debris) consider deforming the plastic with a heat gun. Another alternative is to make 2 little holes & use a zip tie behind the fender to pull the liner farther away or adjust where the liner connects below, again pulling the liner away. These are all common fixes used in T4Rs & should work here as well.
  7. It’s worth noting that those of us with ATX14A transmissions are in the minority. The system is also not just a straightforward center lock. It’s a good practice with anything driveline related on this forum to assume that it might not apply to an ATX14A. That admittedly takes a while on the forum to realize. I think you’ll find the majority would like a manual part-time R50. I bought my truck new & specifically picked the ATX14A. The majority of offroad exploration doesn’t require a locked center & AWD avoids the understeer that induces. It is particularly helpful on loose surfaces where control is your primary concern and your risk of actually being bogged is low. It’s particularly useful if you encounter inclement on-road weather - which is nearly all the time here in the PNW & probably true in winter in snowy regions. I have part-time 4WD in my 5th Gen 4Runner & if I’m honest, I’ll nearly never use its rear locker (especially with ATRAC) but I would use the AWD on the Limited nearly daily. I expect it’s true ours isn’t as hardy but since I’m not a crawler that doesn’t really bother me.
  8. Oh boy! Talk about misinformation.... even after reading your posts for years, I sometimes find it hard to distinguish the genuine from the ironic or whatever this is......we might need to have a warning label for you [emoji3544] (all meant in good fun of course)
  9. The Rockfords are the only notable variant I’ve heard of. Undoubtedly more hardy but I don’t know if they’re sized differently. There’s a thread somewhere I read years ago, I’d search that up.
  10. Even the Pathy’s vary greatly by year. I believe I stole this from[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] I guess you’re right, ‘96-‘02 are the same
  11. It’s free but the lifetime fee of $15 for the Pro is worth it for the ease of picture posting, particularly if you participate in a number of forums.
  12. Stretching means the compression & stretch from your suspension going up & down, not static stretch. I expect just turning stretches it as well. The more lifted a truck is, the greater the pretension on the boot & the more likely that you’ll get material fatigue. The CV joint spinning inside doesn’t come into it. Even if the CV were disengaged - the boot would be going through all the same motions. I actually deleted my earlier post as, upon contemplation, I realized it was pointless to comment after [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] had weighed in. That guy has forgotten more about every part of these trucks than I’ve ever known. I was just drinking my morning coffee & let boredom get the best of me.
  13. Definitely read [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] thread as it can help you target the years with the highest breakaways - they change several times.
  14. The problem I see is that many of us with the ATX14A transmission have not put manual hubs on & therefore our CVs are never disengaged; yet actual CV boot failure occurrences are low. I’d say you’ve experienced more boot failure on your one truck than a bunch of us combined, literally 100s of thousands of miles. Your boots are giving out at an exponentially faster rate than is typical. I suspect there is something else plaguing your system.
  15. Ditto though I’d add junkyard for parts. VQ
  16. If you reboot, somewhere there’s a thread about the Rockford boots. I know[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] has been using a pair of aftermarket CVs for years without a problem. They were from a local auto parts store & have a lifetime warranty. Recently, it was discovered that some of the aftermarket CVs do not have as large of a range of motion as the OEMs so read that thread. If you replace, I’d do both & keep your good one around as an emergency spare. You could also harvest an OEM from junkyard -@TowndawgR50 & I split a set for just that purpose on one of our R50 strips.
  17. As someone who had never done it before, I was wary of the 2 piece compressors. Having now done it with [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] using the new compressor style listed above, I would feel comfortable doing it myself. I’ll leave the technical answers to those with more experience, but I bought new OEM strut mounts due to the conservative consensus that they are the safest - the last thing I need is a failure while remote & solo with my family. @zakzachzachary experienced an on trail failure due to lacking the top hat spacers & it took a community to get him mobile again within 24 hours. Here is my parts list (I wish I had the liwer rubber isolators available when I did it, mine were worn through so we rotated them. I included the piece that wasn’t rubber that I didn’t need) OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2 $173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com Make sure you are aware of the top hat spacer issue & the strut alignment info The notches on the bottom spring seat and the top spring seat must be aligned as shown. Note that the side of the strut shown in the photo is the inboard (engine-facing) side. When reinstalling the struts, orient the "L" or "R" on the strut insulator (aka "top hat") so that the "L" lines up with the notches for the left strut, and the "R" lines up with the notches for the right strut.[XPLORx4]
  18. The OME struts are admittedly expensive but they’re a solid product and you’ll love the ride.
  19. ...If I were to go back in time and give myself advice: get new rubber seats, etc. and save yourself from having to/wanting to replace those a few weeks later. Ditto, I tried to replace all rubber parts but missed those & didn’t have them on hand. Wish I had!
  20. Actually, it’s worth paying the little extra for TapaTalk Pro ($15 lifetime)- simply for the ease of picture posting. At 4 years & a half dozen or more forums for me, it was well worth it. I have zero problems posting, as easy as hitting the icon & selecting the size I prefer. Check out Expedition Portal & Overland Bound plus I’ll bet there are some sailing ones.
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