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Stan

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2001 Pathfinder 4X4 LE, tow package. Ex- Georgia vehicle High mileage but near perfect condition.
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Year
    2001

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  1. Finally got around to changing the spark plugs. Once I knew whare to look and the fact that it was one coil per plug, it was relatively easy to find them. A few of them were not that easy to access, but after I removed some 'stuff' the job was relatively easy. Thanks for all your help. Time to buy a good shop manual, so that is my next research job.
  2. Thanks a lot for all the answers. Have just returned from a long trip, so when I have more time will do some digging on the engine and see if I can uncover these elusive plugs.
  3. Nice, but too pricey. Thanks for the answers so far. No, I had not considerd the Xterra as I had always presumed it was too small. I checked the specs of the 2005/2006 and see that it has grown and is close to what I have now. The reviews I read all say that it is not that comfortable and is horrible for gas consumption, (one reason why I prefer diesels) but give it reasonably good marks otherwise. So based on what I have read so far, yes, the Xterra will be considered. Now if only I can get the same thing a tad larger and a lot more comfortable and quieter
  4. Within the next six months I want to replace my 2001 Pathfinder 4X4 with something that is only 1-3 years old. What are he suggestions for an equivalent vehicle? The new ride must be as tough as my present vehicle and not fall apart when driven continuously on bumpy roads. It must be capable of having a cat 3 hitch. Ideally it will have a manual transmission, but I suppose that will be next to impossible. Sure wish I could get a diesel. I know the QX4 is just a Pathfinder in a tux, but are there any advantages with the QX4 over a Pathfinder? Does it have any additional soundproofing or ride any different? For an equivalent vehicle I will even consider (gasp) a Toyota.
  5. Stan

    Brake problem

    This is a high mileage vehicle and I too thought about #1, but on visual inspection they all look good. I now have my vehicle back and the brakes are great. The dealer said that the brake fluid in the system was too thin, so flushed out the old fluid and installed the overpriced Nissan brake fluid. They did report also finding a bit of air that I somehow missed. Labour and material came to about $70, so as far as I am concerned, it was money well spent. By this time tomorrow I will be in San Antonio, Texas. Tonight I am not far from Mexico City.
  6. Stan

    Brake problem

    Thanks for the offer, but I am going to decline. As I type this, my Pathfinder is at the Nissan dealer. I don't have time to play with this, even tho I am confident that I will figure it out and fix it, but the day after tomorrow (Saturday) I leave for a 1,000 mile trip, so can't afford to take chances on the road. Hate to take it to the dealer, but broke down this time and will pay the price. Will let you guys know later what they had to do to fix the problem. There are a few things I don't play with, such as brakes, tires and steering. For me, I want only the best in these areas, so do not stint on quality.
  7. Thanks for all the replies. I took that big plastic thingamajig off and still can't see anything. Took a mirror and a strong light and looked from all angles from the side. Still nothing. Surely I don't have to take the intake manifold off, which looks like the next logical step.
  8. I was looking for the distributer, but could not even see that. This is a first for me on any engine, because in the past I have always been able to quickly find any component. Had I seen the distributer I could have traced the HT wires.
  9. Thought I would give my 2001 Pathfinder a Christmas present by installing new spark plugs, but I can't even find them on the engine. No plugs, no wires, no coil(s), nothing to be seen anywhere even with a mirror and a light. Unfortunately it's not a diesel, so they must there somewhere. Do I have to pull the intake manifold off to find them? Where oh where are the spark plugs located on this engine? Anything special or different to change them?
  10. Stan

    Brake problem

    My 2001 Pathfinder has soft brakes. With the engine running, if I push hard on the brake pedal it hits the floor. Have never been happy with the brakes in this vehicle. The pads and shoes have lots of meat left. Discs and drums were new not that long ago and have never been turned. The rear shoes are adjusted so that I only need 3- 4 clicks to set the handbrake. Bled the system starting from right rear and ended at left front. Ran a quart of brake fluid thu the system and only got a couple of tiny bubbles. So far nothing I have done has made any difference to the brake pedal travel. No matter how hard I hit the brakes I can't feel any pulsating from the ABS and I can't hear the tires squeal. If I hold pressure on the pedal, it does not slowly bleed down. Any suggestions as what to try next? Is this a known problem on the 2001? It should not make any difference, but this has 4WD.
  11. Gone down that road too and it is a VERY expensive road. Base price of the oil + international shipping + about 30% duty = mega expensive. Can't I just use any API GL-5 oil in both diffs? Anybody have any idea of how much oil each diff holds? For some reason the owners manual just shows dashes for the oil capacity.
  12. Thanks for the answer. I would put in Redline in a heartbeat - if I could get it. Have used their products in the past with great success, but can't get any Redline products where I am located. Now I am stuck with what I can get at Walmart or similar. Any suggestions?
  13. I have a high mileage 2001 4X4 Pathfinder that I bought recently and have zero service history. The rear diff is whining a little so am thinking as a precaution to change all the oil in the drive train. What suggestions do any of you have as to brand and viscosity of oil for the front and read diffs and the transfer case on a high mileage vehicle? The rear diff is labelled to use LSD oil only. (Was a LSD diff an option for the 2001?) Is there an additive or a higher viscosity oil I should use to get rid of some of the rear diff whine? Anything I should look for or do during the oil change? The tranni oil looks clean and has no smell, so should I leave that alone or do something about that as well? Should I change the brake fluid? The pads, drums and discs are almost new, but I can still push the pedal down to the floor if I push really hard. However, it stops well and in a straight line with no pedal pulsing.
  14. Slick, thanks. I will check that, but this is not engine oil, it is transmission oil. 88pathoffroad, never thought to snap any shots. Have loaned my camera out and will not get it back for a few days. Once I have it back will see if I can get any decent pics. An update; I cleaned all the oil off everything once again, but this time I wadded up a piece of paper towel and stuffed it under the rear connector and the heat shield. Took it for a short dive and guess what? No more dripping oil and the paper is dry! In fact, everything is dry. Thus is getting really weird. Have not done very much driving like this, but will check it over the next couple of days. Don't want to leave the paper there for too long as I am afraid the proximity to the hot exhaust could cause it catch fire.
  15. Hope some of you gearheads can point me in the right direction. I have a very small oil leak, but cannot find where it is coming from. It appears to be tranni oil, but the engine and tranni areas are dry. The only wet area is the 'frame' on the RH side starting from the back of the tranni crossmember and ending at the front muffler support. Now here is where it gets weird. About 10" in front of the muffler, under the floor, there are two rows of plugs (9 electrical connectors) Under these connectors is a heat shield attached with two bolts into the 'frame' and a stud with a nut on the floor pan. There is oil dripping off the rear lower electrical connector. The oil appears to then drop down on to the heat shield and then migrates to the lower rear heat shield attachment bolt and then on to the frame and at speed the air blows it up and down the 'frame'. . There are no pipes in the area of the connectors except the fuel lines running a bit lower and they are dry. I have cleaned everything a few times and taken it for a drive and then immediately checked again for the leak. Every time I check that lower rear electrical connector is dripping oil. No, I am not on drugs! I have considered that the oil could be coming from ahead of the heat shield and then at speed the air currents blow it up behind the heat shield and on to the connector. but if that were the case, then their should be something wet ahead of the crossmember or under the heat shield. The only oil that drips onto my driveway is directly below that rear bolt for the heat shield. Help .......!!!
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