Jump to content

Wroth

Members
  • Content Count

    50
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Wroth last won the day on April 21

Wroth had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

19 Good

About Wroth

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular
  • Birthday 01/09/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    93 3.0L automatic 4x4 XE?
  • Place of Residence
    Montgomery county
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Arkansas
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

764 profile views
  1. Wroth

    Bad squeal and rattling noise

    Yeah, it didn't seem like a lot to me either. I did try to clean up the threads on the bolts with a wire brush. I would have used a thread cutter die to be sure but I couldn't find an M10x1.25. The torque wrench that pops like that trips me out, I'm more used to the kind with the needle which gets bent and never reads correctly again after you exceed about forty foot pounds. I used the adjustable slip one though. I actually found a note on the cylinder head bolts in the FSM. It said that sometimes you have to use an angular tightening method for the cylinder head bolts and the connecting rod end bolts. It said that the final torque torque was different using torque was different with this technique, and that the force produced by a torque wrench could be up 2-3X the force of the angular tightening of a similar numerical torque specification. It did not explain what that meant or how the angular tightening method works. I wish I'd known that when I replaced the cylinder head last year... I think I bolted the bell housing before I loosely bolted on the torque converter. If i remember correctly, i didn't even start threading the torque converter bolts through the flexplate until I'd torqued the bell housing to the engine block. I just turned the crankshaft beforehand to get one of the bolt holes in the starter slot, mated the block and bell housing, and then a few days later I went back and lined up the torque converter by reaching in behind the flexplate to turn it until the bolt hole lined up. Then I started a bolt, turned the crankshaft 180°,started the second bolt, turned the crankshaft 90°, start the third, rotate another 180°, start the fourth. Then i tightened them in the same pattern in stages to keep them even and prevent binding. I have no idea if I did that correctly. At that point I had about two weeks to get it running and help my dad move, and I was under a lot of pressure. I had my transmission pulled back and tilted so the oil pan would clear the front differential, but it would have been much easier to take out the differential and leave the transmission mounted in place. The FSM actually says to completely remove the transmission from the vehicle, but you still have to put in the tranny from below and the engine from above. I had my dad telling me that I should pull out the engine and transmission bolted together like he did with his old Belvedere. I kept telling him that my truck was a 4x4 and smaller than a Belvedere and there was too much awesomeness packed in the compact frame to have much elbow room in the engine compartment. Or especially between the oil pan and the differential...
  2. Wroth

    Bad squeal and rattling noise

    It's 33-43 ft/lbs. I felt like I could have tightened it further, but I was worried about stripping threads or snapping bolts. It was hard to tell since I was using the extensions and swivel, and especially since my dad was pushing the other way on the crankshaft with a wrench to keep it still. I think I put the torque converter in the tranny, spinning it until it seated in three times (apparently how to index a tc in a tranny) then lined up the back of the engine with the bell housing and started the three bell housing bolts i could reach at that point. I tightened those, put in the rest across the top, and then I believe I put in the motor mounts and tranny mount before I put in the torque converter bolts. I wish I'd taken notes and pictures since I started the swap. For one thing I'd be able to tell you exactly what I did in which order, and for another it wouldn't hurt to have another write up for the 3.3L WD21 on here. I feel like there is a distinct lack of information in my FSM regarding the removal and installation of a motor. I couldn't find anything about indexing a torque converter, but on the other hand it doesn't seem to want you to take the tc out of the tranny in the first place. I didn't have this option as my old motor was seized. I guess it's probably all down to my inexperience with this level of repair. But I'm determined to fix my own truck if I possibly can. I'd rather spend what money I can on parts and stuff than to have someone else do the work for me. Plus I'm aiming for rights to put an "I built mine, you bought yours" sticker on the back window. Incidentally, I think my FSM might be incomplete. I picked it up from ebay, it's just one large thick book. I think some of the listings showed pictures of several differently sized books, and the book I have definitely doesn't have an index. Apparently it's the 1993 service manual revised for truck (serial no. 351227 for usa produced and 426001 for Japanese) and Pathfinder. I think i paid about $35 for it and it's been both massively helpful and frequently frustrating.
  3. Wroth

    Bad squeal and rattling noise

    Oh, good question. I didn't even think about that. When I bought the engine it didn't have a starter on it, so I put my old one back in at first. I remember the VG33 had a weird starter bracket on it so I pulled the starter bracket off the 30, cleaned it up and painted it red, and put it on the 33. The starter seemed to fit fine and I didn't have to use shims, but now I wonder how far out the paint spaced it. It started beautifully the first time I tried it even though I had some harness plugs for the idle and egr switched around accidentally. When it first started doing this i got a Duralast Gold starter for the 3.0 because the old one had been working until that point and I think the one i looked up for the frontier i think my engine came from was more expensive. What I should have done is check the flexplate and tc bolts when I put the new starter in a couple days ago. I didn't really know what i was doing when I first started my engine swap. I couldn't turn the old engine so I couldn't have taken the torque converter off the flexplate anyway, but I didn't know I needed to. Then when I went to put the engine back in i didn't know to index the torque converter into the transmission. I had my dad telling me that it was the other way around and I had to put it on the flexplate but not tighten the bolts. So for a while I was trying to stick the engine in with the torque converter on it until I realized that it couldn't possibly be the right way to do it and that nissans are not like mopars at all. I may have damaged something back then. Then one of the times when I was pulling the engine in or out of the truck one of my straps broke and the rear of the engine dropped about eight inches and may have struck the flexplate on the torque converter. Not to mention how difficult it was to use the torque wrench with two feet of extensions and a swivel from the front of the engine to torque the torque converter, or that i kept losing count trying to get an even tightening pattern. And i forgot to install the lower dust cover bolts into the bell housing. . But most of that happened before I drove it around for a few weeks. The most recent problem was the sticking ignition switch which was keeping the bendix in the old starter engaged way too long when i forgot to turn it back manually. I checked out the bendix on the old starter and it didn't look too bad but I thought i could see the wear. Now I'm thinking something in the bell housing worked loose. I think I figured out what torque converter and flexplate I might need, and now I want a heavy duty rebuild kit and stage 2 valve body for the tranny, but if I'm being honest with myself I can't afford that right now. But in my head I've already spent a lot of theoretical money on level 10 bulletproof stuff and an Oregon high stall torque converter. Funny how when I first picked up the WD21 I thought there weren't many options for upgrading the little truck...
  4. Wroth

    Bad squeal and rattling noise

    Nothing new to tell you, guys. It's been raining here and I've been busy and I've only just now arranged for a tow. I'm looking up torque converters and flex plates now, and I'm beginning to think that I may need a torque converter made for the 3.3... I really appreciate the input, you're basically giving me a list of what I need to look for that I couldn't find in my FSM. Now if only it would stop raining. I'll let you know when I find out if it's a loose bolt, bent flex plate, mangled torque converter, or something even worse, then hopefully we can figure out why it happened so that hopefully others can avoid it. I'm still hoping for a quick fix, but in the interest of gathering information, is it better to choose a torque converter based on the engine, or the transmission? Or should I just figure out a year model which had the vg33e and the RE4R01A? Will the torque converter out of an Xterra that had a 5-speed auto work with my 4-speed? Is there anyone who makes heavy duty or racing quality torque converters or flywheels for these? I guess it might be a good time to put in a new(ish?) tranny, but I really don't want to. I'm hoping not to have to take the transmission out at all, and I'd almost rather not have to take the engine back out either, if it turns out to be a loose bolt or something, but I suppose I have to check the flywheel and torque converter now. Anyway, I'm getting ahead of myself. I still don't know if the engine will free up as soon as I pull the starter back out. I do hope that if I damaged the brand new starter it'll be covered by the limited warranty. I'm waiting for the tow truck now. I'll try to keep up with this thread as I get time to work on the truck. I can hardly wait to see what I did wrong that caused this, myself, and warn people about it. I'm almost tempted to try to get a recording of the sound it's making, but I really don't want to try to start it again until I check everything and the engine turns freely. Edit: I just realized that flywheels are fot manual transmissions and flexplates are for automatic transmissions and they're not synonymous. So...my mistake, I meant flexplate the whole time.
  5. Wroth

    Bad squeal and rattling noise

    Well, I went to look at it again today. I found out the power steering pump was loose so I tightened all that up and tried it. The squeal was gone, but it was knocking really loudly in park. It seemed to fade a bit when I put it in reverse, but when I put it in neutral it stalled. It did the same thing a couple of times, then it quit turning over at all. When the starter was engaged, it just thumped. I grabbed the huge wrench that fits the crankshaft bolt and crawled under the front. The engine wouldn't turn one way at all (i can't remember if it was clockwise or counter), and when i tried turning it the other way it turned without too much resistance about 320°. Then I thought I heard a clunk from back near the starter and it stopped turning. It'll turn back and forth between, but it wouldn't turn past that point. I didn't put much pressure on it to try to force it though. I guess next step is to get it home and see what's keeping it from turning. I'll probably start by pulling the starter back out and trying to check out the torque converter bolts. Thanks for the quick response and the advice. I'm sorry to hear about your transmission, that's a major bummer. Did you decide to go with the manual, or an Xterra tranny? Or a manual Xterra tranny? Just wondering for worst case scenario purposes.
  6. K, so I put a vg33e in my 1993 4x4 auto recently and I've been fine tuning it for about a couple of weeks. A while back I snapped off my last ignition key in the passenger door lock. I managed to get the busted off keyed portion out of the lock cylinder and stuck it in the ignition cylinder, then used a flathead to start it and turn it off. The ignition cylinder started to stick, so when I turned it to the starter trigger mode it wouldn't spring back to run and it kept the starter engaged until I manually turned it back to the run setting. This put a lot of wear on the starter, and I became very worried about the flywheel. I finally put in a new ignition cylinder, but not an oem one that goes on the steering column, but a generic one for lawnmowers and four wheelers, i guess. It took me a while to get the wires right, but I drove the truck around for a week with this setup and it seemed to work fine, except i couldn't get the tranny control module to perform the diagnostic process and that's currently irrelevant. I was driving it yesterday and it started making this loud squeal or screech. I pulled into a gas station and shut it off, then tried to start it again. It made squealed and I think it shuddered while the starter was engaged... It didn't really sound like a belt squeal so I consulted my dad and we decided it was probably the starter gear not retracting and interfering with the flywheel, producing the clacking and the squealing. I went and bought a duralast gold starter, all new components, and put it in. This was a massive pain with the header on, and the new starter had a bracket for the trigger plug that was in the way, but I'm not here to complain about that. It started right up and sounded fine at first, but when I backed up the slight hill and put it in drive it started clacking and squealing again, just like before. Unfortunately I don't remember if it started when I put it in gear, when I gave it some gas, or at another point. It also seemed to have a distinct lack of power, but it had a power loss problem before this which I've been trying to fix. I think it still has exhaust leaks in the new system i installed. The rattling could be caused by the fact that the passenger side header isn't in the Y-pipe flange at all, but held in place by a plumbing band clamp (i know, I know, I'm getting there...). It had a subdued clack before which I attributed to the loose exhaust connection, but it's worse now. Additional information: *once it started making the noise it continued in neutral and park, only stopping when i killed the motor *the ac was off and i wasn't steering the whole time, so i doubt it's the ac or power steering pump belts or pulleys So I need to get some opinions. Do you guys (and/or girls, I'm not picky about advice) think my torque converter is loose from the flywheel? Or the flywheel is loose from the engine? I didn't change the flywheel on the engine i swapped in, it's the original one from the 3.3. I'm almost completely certain that I indexed the torque converter to the transmission correctly, but it did take me a few tries, so maybe I damaged something then? Or is it probably just a squeaky alternator pulley/belt and the exhaust rattling? I didn't check any belts when I was there, i got freaked out and came home to check my favorite forum and have some chocolate coffee beans... I've been driving it for a few weeks since I first started the new 3.3 (not really new, but about 50,000 miles from a Japanese fleet Frontier) and it hasn't made any crazy squealing sound before. It's been shifting fine, though a bit late occasionally and some odd downshifting, but I figured that was because of the pinched vacuum lincoming off the air intake tube and the exhaust leaks. I was under the impression that if I hadn't properly indexed the torque converter and bolted it to the flex plate the tranny would have self destructed when i first started the swapped engine, or first put it in gear. I even pulled a 6000lb Plymouth Trailduster about three miles on hills two weeks ago and it pulled it like a champ. I've been testing it against more and more difficult tasks and it just kept running better and better, and then this happens. I would really appreciate it if anyone had any idea of what's going on with my truck.
  7. Wroth

    What did you do to your Pathfinder today?

    Ok, so never mind all of that. It was the fusible link. More importantly, I started my truck for the first time since the old motor shredded itself like six months ago. It idles high, the timing is slightly off, and I think there's coolant coming from the water pump, but IT'S ALIVE!!! I still have to put on the roof rack, steering dampener, and skid plates, and later on the new brake rotors, master cylinder, and rear cylinders and lines, and the dual electric fans and the freeway blaster horn (very important, that) and a whole lot more. I'll probably never stop working on this truck, but I hope that for a while it's stuff I want to do instead of stuff I have to do, if you know what I mean.
  8. Wroth

    What did you do to your Pathfinder today?

    Well, I went out and put the hood and front flares and flaps back on, as well as the radiator overflow and the battery. I thought I was pretty much finished putting it back together after the engine swap, but now I have a weird problem. When I put in the key and turn it to accessory none of the dash lights come on except for the odometer backlight and it doesn't show any numbers. I pulled the passenger seat back out to see the ecm, and I found that it would have the red and green light come on constantly with the key on accessory, and when I turned the key off they stayed lit for a few seconds and then faded. I had hooked up a battery to the terminals when the engine was out so I could roll the windows up and down (one day, manual windows...) and it worked fine a few times but then one time it stopped working, same thing as now. No power to windows, no turn signals, no dome lamps, and no hazards. The headlights will come on and switch beams but I put in HID projectors way back. It's triggered by the stock wiring but draws power from the battery through a relay. I looked over the relays and fusible links at the positive terminal and they all looked fine to me? So, do you guys think I screwed up the ecm somehow by trying to roll up the windows without an engine? Or could it be as simple as the fact that I just realized that I didn't put a ground strap on the engine yet? Any idea what the green and red light on the ecm might indicate? Check engine light never came on, and I thought it was on the same circuit as the red light on the ecm. Also my aftermarket stereo isn't getting any power and if I remember correctly I had it powered by the constant live wire from the stock harness split between the constant power line in the stereo (for memory?) and a switch to the switched power line. I can't find my multimeter so I haven't checked voltage on anything yet but all the fuses I can find are fine and the relays seem fine. I need to get a better idea of how to check a relay. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've spent way too long doing a 3.3 swap and I want to drive my pathfinder! I have dreams every night where I drive it around but when I'm awake I can't remember what it feels like to cruise around in my beautiful little truck! Oh, and yesterday I relocated the oil filter into the front bumper (I forgot how packed the engine compartment was until I put everything back into it, and then I couldn't find another place to put it...) and forgot to take a single picture. EDIT: I went back out and looked again, and I found that the fusible link section off the positive terminal with the green and black wires is burned through on the black wire. Trying to find a part number or listing for a new one, and I guess I'll spice a piece of wire in to complete the connection temporarily to see if that fixes the problem.
  9. I bought a wd21 partly for the price (hard to beat $900, even with a few problems) and partly because of the lack of rust and body damage. But mostly I didn't want a newer car or something that's too common. I was actually looking at an even more rare vehicle (daihatsu rocky anyone?) but it didn't work out and I didn't want to have driven to Arizona for nothing. The 2000 Mitsubishi montero sport I had before was crap, IMHO, so I don't like all Japanese cars, but I have become a fan of Nissan since I got a pathy. My dad is a hardcore Mopar man. He always had mid 80s Ramchargers when I was growing up, and now he has a chrysler 300m and a '76 plymouth trailduster (!!!). He never liked foreign cars until I got my pathfinder, but my wd21 has him convinced. He gets frustrated helping me with the 33 swap, since everything is packed in pretty tight, but I explained that in order to get full blown 4x4 in such a small platform they had to make hard decisions like making us take out the front diff to get the oil pan off. I got rear ended a while back and it totally destroyed the new "SUV" that hit me, and I only had a couple dents, a smashed tail light, and a bent tail pipe. The insurance company, in their infinite wisdom, decided to repair that POS because it's "worth more" and totaled my truck because they don't think the whole vehicle is worth the price of a paint job. I told them flat out they could have my Pathfinder over my dead body and they cut me a check for $5000 and said I'd have to retitle it as a "salvage vehicle". They also said that there was "nothing special" about the WD21 and they "aren't collectable". I went off on that lady, though I kept my language clean. I told her that I was a member of a group of collectors (you guys) and if it was nothing special then why did it hold up so well to a fancy new car that weighs like half again as much. Bottom line: I bought it because I could afford it and it had the 4x4 I needed, living in rural Arkansas, and I kept it because it's awesome. If I somehow became rich I'd still keep it. I plan on driving that truck (or another wd21 if anything serious happens to it) for the rest of my life. Plus I like not having a Ford, Chevy, or Jeep which is all people around here seem to buy. My ex had a grand Cherokee and I hated it.
  10. Wroth

    LED Headlights

    IIRC those H4 units are European, and they have a cutoff on the right side of the vehicle to avoid blinding oncoming traffic. I didn't use them because here the oncoming traffic is on the left, and the deer that sit and wait to jump out in front of my truck are on the right. It's been a while since I looked into it though, and I went with a xenon HID projector setup anyways. Like @edicer2 did, but with the original headlight units and cheaper projectors. Also no angel eyes for me. I thought it looked pretty awesome, but I just wanted to be able to see the ground when people high beam me and have the option for retaliation. Now when I flash my lights at them they switch to low beam right quickly, the silly wankers.
  11. Wroth

    1989 pathy vg33 swap

    I thought so too, but I've never had anything custom machined like that, so it's good to hear someone else say so. This swap has been crazy, and I keep running into problems, but I love my truck and I'll do anything I can to make it run again. It's gotten me through a crazy blizzard on a cracked head on the way back from buying it off Craigslist in Phoenix, a freaking flood in Fayetteville, AR trying to get my little sister to her senior prom with 'fuel injector seats' made of a cut up rubber hose (it took a while to source the right ones and even longer to get them, don't judge me), and many less memorable incidents. When I pulled the engine and started taking it apart I found out that the previous owner had also had it out and partially apart, but hadn't torqued ANYTHING to spec! I can't believe it lasted that long! I drove it a couple of thousand miles without the stabilizer bar hooked up to the passenger side at all! Huge face-palm when I realized that... I got rear ended at 65mph in Oklahoma on the way to Denver (heh, the 2018 Equinox that hit me totally lost the front passenger side wheel, spindle, etc and everything else from the quarter panel to the engine block), continued to Denver, then down to Santa Rosa, then back to Arkansas and all I replaced was the tail light. I'm putting in an entire new exhaust system now, by the way, which I bought with the insurance money before the 3.0 blew. Sorry, I kind of went off on a rant there and I never did get the hang of paragraphs, but I have had several people suggest the truck isn't worth it (the undercoated frame suggests otherwise to me), and there seems to be a general disparaging attitude towards older vehicles prevalent in today's society. The insurance rep I dealt with after being hit was flat out rude, implying constantly that my precious was a beater just because it's 25 years old. She also refused to believe that my XE had LSD until I emailed her a picture of the sticker. I hope to keep driving my Pathfinder for the rest of my life, or until my eyesight fails and I become a danger to others...
  12. Wroth

    1989 pathy vg33 swap

    I had an adapter made. It took about three weeks and cost me $125 at a local shop. I have two extra.
  13. Wroth

    torque converter bolts

    You are brilliant. I never thought to check that section. Thank you so much! It's the 31009, that's exactly what I needed, the part number. I owe you one, @Cuong Nguyen!
  14. Wroth

    torque converter bolts

    That would be great, if had at least two, and could mail them to me. May I PM you about it?
  15. Wroth

    torque converter bolts

    I couldn't find them on either of these sites. Anyone have any other ideas, or a part number, or a link to a listing? Or even just the specs?

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please REGISTER to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×