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Wroth

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Wroth last won the day on April 21 2018

Wroth had the most liked content!

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About Wroth

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular
  • Birthday 01/09/1991

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    93 3.0L automatic 4x4 XE?
  • Place of Residence
    Montgomery county
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Arkansas
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

957 profile views
  1. I hope so too. I'm returning the starter for another today and trying to find a replacement for the lower intake manifold that I broke last week trying to install the fuel rails. I read somewhere that they're pretty much compatible between the two engines so long as they look the same so I'm hoping a 3.3L xterra intake will fit under my 3.0L upper intake. I used the starter and bracket for the 3.0 because I think i remember reading that it's supposed to match the bell housing, not the motor, but it totally worked with the old starter. I'm mentally kicking myself a bit over that, you suggested bearings and I didn't want to believe it so I bought a new starter and that's the one I'm having trouble with now. And I forgot to write down anywhere which lower intake and oil filter mount i used and I don't remember what I did with the other intake. At one point I had two but now I can only find the other upper intake and that won't fit with my accessory setup for reasons i also forgot. Note to self: document everything because i already know that my memory sucks, and try not to take over a year on an engine swap and rebuild. Also work on paragraphs...
  2. Yeah, i think it's the starter. I don't have any good measurement tools so I was eyeballing it with a tape measure but the clearance was uniform within a sixteenth of an inch all the way around. I roughly determined that the starter sticks into the bell housing about 1/16th too much. Since the starter is a reman job from autozone (and since i bought the warranty) in inclined to believe that the dimensions of the starter are off, possibly from remachining the mating surface, and that a brand new one will work fine. It's interesting that for the past year I've been thinking it was a problem with my work and lack of experience and the whole time it was either the starter or the flexplate and apparently was completely unrelated to the cheap spray lube i used before i knew that assembly lube existed. It's too bad that i turned in my old starter for the core charge, i could otherwise slap that baby in and if it cleared then i would know that the problem isn't the flexplate. Oh well, I now know definitely the it's one or the other.
  3. It very well could be the flexplate. There were a couple moments when I was putting in the engine around the front differential when I felt like it was binding or something. I guess I need to check the clearance between the flexplate and the bell housing dust cover all the way around. I was hoping to not have to take the engine out again but you do what you must. On the plus side I feel like I am getting really good at doing this stuff.
  4. AARGH! I pulled out the front differential, pulled the oil pan, partially loosened ALL the bearing bolts and took off the timing belt. Everything spun freely so I started putting things back. I set the time and went through several revolutions so I figured it was ok and started putting things back. I put on the fuel rails (only took that off because I expected to have to remove the heads), the starter, the distributor, and the imitation Mr.510 pulley adapter without checking and now it's stuck again. I guess I narrowed down the possible issue but this is massively frustrating. I swear those two little coolant lines on the very back of the engine (from the weird octopus thing bolted to the bottom of the upper intake to the back of the block that T from the heater core lines are the most irritating part of working on the top end besides lining up the EGR tube with Pacesetter headers when most of the stuff on my 33 is from the 30. Complaints aside, I realized that if you have the differential and the oil pan off it's really easy to get to the torque converter bolts. If i ever pull the motor out again in putting it back in without the oil pan. Going through the starter slot is a pain, especially when your dad is right there talking about inspection plates on mopars. I typed that several days ago and evidently forgot to hit post. Anyways, earlier i pulled off the starter, the distributor, and the pulley adapter and it spun freely again. I put the distributor back, it spun, and then I put the starter back and it was like dragging on the flexplate. Granted I lost one of the bolts so I have an old head bolt with two inches of washers on the bottom, but it shouldn't be interfering with the flexplate. I bought the starter new last year and it's only been engaged a couple of times but I have a warranty on it so I'll probably go have it tested. I'm starting to think I'll need some sort of shim to keep it out far enough to clear but still engage the bendix when I need to start the truck. If anyone has any ideas, advice, or previous experience with this issue I'd like to hear it. Thanks for everything guys, I never would have made it this far without support from the community.
  5. Man I love this site. Thanks for the quick responses, guys. It turned over fine while I was installing the torque converter, a little stiff but it turned. I had worried about the bearings and the cylinders but I figured it was fine since it turned. It still turned after the torque converter install. I probably should have stopped by the truck every couple of days and turned it more, but oh well. I haven't tried using anything for starting fluid, ether or otherwise but it's been so long since I assembled the engine i suppose it could have dried up anyway. I never heard of assembly lube until a few weeks ago. If I remember correctly, I had the heads on, timing belt on and set, and basically fully assembled except for the starter, distributor, accessories, and various electrical plugs. I pulled the starter back out and removed the accessory belts but haven't got to the distributor yet. I guess I panic a bit easily with this sort of thing. I've never had a vehicle i liked enough to work on myself before and this is my first time doing anything on this level. My truck has been down over a year now and I had expected originally to only take a month or two. Life is crazy and plans nearly useless.
  6. Well, it's been quite a while since I've updated. I had to get a new (reman) crankshaft and do a partial rebuild. I put the camshafts from the 3.0 in while I was at it. I replaced the broken rod and the cap thanks to some help from a friend and checked out all the valves, lifters, springs, rings, etc. I don't have a micrometer so I was unable to check the bearings that came with the crankshaft, but when I installed it and the pistons it rotated easily by hand (large wrench, actually). I reassembled and installed the engine, indexed and torqued the TC, and replaced all the accessories etc. Obviously it turned over by hand when I installed the torque converter, but then I had to leave it for a few weeks between working on it. Anyways, it's now seized. Won't turn a single degree in either direction there's about 50 ft-lbs on the crank bolt and it just tightens and loosens. I had put a small amount of marvel mystery oil in the cylinders so I pulled the plugs. I had trouble aligning the starter so I pulled it to eliminate the possibility that it was binding. I pulled the accessory belts so they wouldn't drag. It still won't budge. I'm kinda freaking out here trying to figure out how it could have bound. I guess I need to pull the oil pan and check out the bearings and maybe take the heads back off (another round of head gaskets, yay) but that's such a pain (front diff, centerlink, stabilizer, skid plates, etc) that I'm looking for any other suggestions to check before I go that far. Dropping the front differential is really hard by yourself without the proper type of jack. I had to set it on a furniture dolly, jack the front of the truck up, position the differential, lower the truck onto it, bolt it in, and then jack the truck back up to get the dolly out, all with a high lift jack. So, any ideas? Need any more information? Am I kidding myself thinking i can do this at all?
  7. Sorry, I took the day off yesterday since it was raining the whole time and caught up with my sleep. I know practically nothing about the pistons and cylinders, all I know is that the engine is apparently from a 2000-2004 frontier. I'm pretty sure I don't need the whole rod, just that cap and maybe the bolts and nuts. I just can't find anyone selling just the cap. I'm definitely replacing the oil pickup tube. Mine didn't have a hole in it but it's seriously pinched and I'm concerned about the flow rate, being so restricted. I'm hoping to not have to take out the piston, or the valves or springs or any of that since I'd then have to go find a spring compressor IINM. I'm still hoping to be able to just slap another cap on that rod, install all new bearings and check torque, put it all back together with a new oil filter, and go back roading. All these mud covered jeeps rolling around out here and my truck is down...
  8. Oh, OK. I got worried for a minute. Looking back, maybe I should have not included a photo of the old engine, it's almost too horrible to look at. That block and crankshaft were both totally ruined. I could have left the engine in since I pulled the front diff, the torsion bars, the crossmember under the front of the diff, and the front of the lower control arms. The only reason I pulled the engine was because I had been thinking it was the flexplate. Now that it's out though, I can put on the correct thermostat housing and do a few other things I'd forgotten when I first put everything together. Like gasket sealer between the dust cover and the bell housing... Being rushed on car repairs sucks. I actually grabbed the bolt through the rod that the cap came off of and pulled the piston back down so I don't think it stuffed into the valve, but I'm taking the head off anyway so I can make sure. I've strapped the engine down to a furniture dolly i beefed up months ago for the engine and in a while I'm going to start taking off the stuff over the driver side head. So far my parts list is: the one rod, all the bearings, oil pan seals, head gasket, and loctite and that black RTV gasket stuff. So far it's looking less expensive than the torque converter and flexplate i originally thought I'd have to replace, but only because I'm not going to put in all new rods. Though now I'm wishing I could afford a set of the forged steel ones... Thanks again to everyone who has chimed in on this, and everyone else too. If not for this forum I don't think I would be prepared to do all this and I'd be stuck with paying a mechanic probably $3000 for everything I've already done to it.
  9. Sorry, the time frame is confusing. Did you say that before or after you saw the picture? I figured it would be toast but, bearing in mind that I am not a mechanic or experienced with crankshafts, it looks okay to me...
  10. I think the journal is fine... and the rod looks OK too, except for the double stuffed spun bearing stamped together and stuck to it. And I think the ECU would have caught the problem and at least thrown a code if not for thisIt turns out that a rat chewed off my knock sensor! Bastard. He chewed up a bunch of my security switch wires too and I had thought his ravaging had been limited to the interior. Oh well, i'm going to get something to set the engine on soon so I can dig into the top end and check the valve. I think it's ok, but I need to know. Guys, I think I got extremely lucky that it didn't let go when the engine was running. So far the most damage I've found is to the oil pick up tube. Man, it's gotten easier to post pictures lately. I'll have to put up some good ones once I get it running again and get the roof rack installed.
  11. I'm starting to think that the bolts were working loose when the bearing spun and started squealing (good call, by the way) and then after i shut it off the rod came completely off and started to interfere with the crankshaft while I was turning it by hand. And when the cap was loose it was beating the crap out of the oil pickup tube, causing the clattering. If I got extremely lucky, I didn't damage the valve pushing the piston up into it... But I won't know that until I get the head off and check it out. Yes I am definitely taking the head off, if only to check for damage to the valve. Fortunately I've done a head before. An endoscope is an excellent idea, I'll have to check around to see if I can get my hands on one. Honestly I'm a bit irritated about the fact that the engine essentially crapped out after two weeks of running. It's no longer covered by the warranty (90 day and startup), so I get to fix it out of pocket. Woo hoo. I've informed the ebay seller that I purchased the engine from that there was an issue, but I don't expect them to do anything about it. Mostly I'm blown away by the eerie similarity to the way the last motor went. It threw a rod through the oil pan and when I took that oil pan off I found two shattered rods. This time is much less disastrous. It's a bit strange that i didn't find any metal in the oil pan, but I'm hoping it's a good sign. I have to figure a way to mount the engine so I can start into it (a stand would be ideal but I'm not sure if I know anyone with one and I hesitate to go buy one since I hope not to need it again for several years), and I'll keep posting what I find as i find it. Oh yeah, and I'm in Arkansas. Near Hot Springs if that means anything to anyone.
  12. Found the problem. I finally got the engine out and it still wouldn't turn. I took off the oil pan and found these. Looks like the cap off the #2 connector rod came loose while I was driving. It struck the oil pick up tube and damaged it, bent the cap, and appears to have not damaged anything else. I think I can just push the piston back down and reconnect everything with a new cap... Means I have to find an engine stand though, i can't work on the top and bottom at the same time as is.
  13. If I remember correctly, it ran mostly fine for at least two weeks, and I probably drove it at least fifteen miles a day during that time. I say mostly fine because I had an exhaust leak and a couple of pinched vacuum lines i hadn't gotten to yet. I hope it's not similar to the issue you had (sorry to hear about that by the way, i wouldn't wish car problems on anyone short of Hitler). The first time it started making that sound it was after driving about twelve miles, so it could have been when it hit operating temperature. But after that first time it was doing it even before it warmed up. Good idea to check for metal shavings in the oil, I'll check that next time I get to work on the truck. I always check for that when I check the oil level, but it's more likely to show up in the sump before it shows on the dipstick. Random thought: I wonder if I could magnetize the dipstick? Hmm... Thank you for your concern for me, it means a lot that basically random strangers who just happen to also have nissans actually care about me and my personal problems (as most ford owners around here would put it). Funny story, right after the truck went down again this guy told me that i should buy a new Ford ranger. I told him that aside from the fact that my three kids wouldn't fit in a Ford ranger comfortably, I didn't like the idea of having a CVT that's rubber band driven or having computer controlled brakes and steering. I don't like newer vehicles. I figure my cutoff is about 2000-2004, if it's newer than that i don't even want to drive it (no offense to anyone with a newer vehicle, if you like it great but you're not likely to convince me...).
  14. So I finally got a chance to work on the truck. I pulled out the starter and confirmed that the engine will not rotate freely. In fact, I was way off on my rotation estimate before, i could only rotate it far enough to check two torque converter bolts. This means that i can't properly unhook the torque converter from the flexplate this time either. It also means that the starter isn't the problem. The two torque converter bolts i could check were fine. Guess I'm pulling the engine again. I figured this time it would be easier to pull the front differential out to get the room to pull the torque converter out of the bell housing. What I didn't figure on is the fact that I haven't done this before and the bolts are TIGHT. I had to get a jack under the ratchet handle to break loose the two mount bolts on the crossmember between the front wheels. Now the front differential is completely loose, but the crossmember under the rear of it won't drop because it's hung up between the two torsion bars. I'm not sure how to spread them apart the inch or two i need to clear them, but I haven't removed the motor mounts or lifted it to get wiggle room to get the differential out of the way. The FSM says to remove the tranny to get the engine out but that's a massive pain in the neck unless maybe if you have a lift for the vehicle and a special transmission jack. Based on my experience last time, the main issue with pulling the engine is that the oil pan has that deep sump behind the differential. It blocks the engine from being pulled forward until you lift it up about six inches. I figured if I dropped the differential i could pull the engine forward until the torque converter cleared and then lift. Anyway, this is all very frustrating but I love my truck so I'm doing it. Plus I can't afford to have someone else do it or to get a new vehicle. If I could get a new vehicle, it would probably be another pathy. And I'm learning a lot about this truck along the way. I'll post more progress when I get any, but it's supposed to be raining again tomorrow and I'm not crazy enough to go lay in a puddle to fix it anymore. Still appreciate the prior input, guys, and any forthcoming as well. Wish me luck? May be a little late for that...
  15. Yeah, it didn't seem like a lot to me either. I did try to clean up the threads on the bolts with a wire brush. I would have used a thread cutter die to be sure but I couldn't find an M10x1.25. The torque wrench that pops like that trips me out, I'm more used to the kind with the needle which gets bent and never reads correctly again after you exceed about forty foot pounds. I used the adjustable slip one though. I actually found a note on the cylinder head bolts in the FSM. It said that sometimes you have to use an angular tightening method for the cylinder head bolts and the connecting rod end bolts. It said that the final torque torque was different using torque was different with this technique, and that the force produced by a torque wrench could be up 2-3X the force of the angular tightening of a similar numerical torque specification. It did not explain what that meant or how the angular tightening method works. I wish I'd known that when I replaced the cylinder head last year... I think I bolted the bell housing before I loosely bolted on the torque converter. If i remember correctly, i didn't even start threading the torque converter bolts through the flexplate until I'd torqued the bell housing to the engine block. I just turned the crankshaft beforehand to get one of the bolt holes in the starter slot, mated the block and bell housing, and then a few days later I went back and lined up the torque converter by reaching in behind the flexplate to turn it until the bolt hole lined up. Then I started a bolt, turned the crankshaft 180°,started the second bolt, turned the crankshaft 90°, start the third, rotate another 180°, start the fourth. Then i tightened them in the same pattern in stages to keep them even and prevent binding. I have no idea if I did that correctly. At that point I had about two weeks to get it running and help my dad move, and I was under a lot of pressure. I had my transmission pulled back and tilted so the oil pan would clear the front differential, but it would have been much easier to take out the differential and leave the transmission mounted in place. The FSM actually says to completely remove the transmission from the vehicle, but you still have to put in the tranny from below and the engine from above. I had my dad telling me that I should pull out the engine and transmission bolted together like he did with his old Belvedere. I kept telling him that my truck was a 4x4 and smaller than a Belvedere and there was too much awesomeness packed in the compact frame to have much elbow room in the engine compartment. Or especially between the oil pan and the differential...

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