Houdini28

On my older Pathfinder, I suspected the Idle Air Control Valve. That's what P0505 points to. In that case, it was as simple as a bad connection at the IAC valve. That made me a happy camper as everyone I asked said the IAC valve for that Pathfinder was in the $400.00 range. That was a 91 and others said that the same valve was used on other Nissans and was much cheaper. Fortunately, I never had to go that route. But if the Valve is bad on your model, perhaps the same substitution is possible. If it isn't a simple connector problem, first I Would remove the valve assembly and and use an electronic cleaner spray. Then if the problem isn't corrected, I would probably do an Amazon search for for the assembly or just the valve that is probably just fastened into the assembly. I have found Amazon to be a lot less expensive than many Auto Parts Stores.

Another Pathfinder in the family with issue. Check engine light came on and showed code P0744 which is intermittent torque converter problem. I haven't looked into it at this point but was hoping someone on the forum can give me some direction on where to begin troubleshooting. I suppose it could be something simple like a faulty connector or solenoid etc, but when they began running wires to the inside of these automatic transmissions I just kept my fingers crossed and hoped nothing in there would ever cause a problem. And there is always the possibility that there is a major problem with the torque converter which goes far beyond an electrical glitch.

I was thinking of reversing the connections on the solenoid, but since I was able to remove the cable with a long extension conglomeration after removing the alternator/power steering tensioner assembly, I just went back with the original setup. Had a tough time getting the nut started on that battery cable on assembly. I doubt if there is any other connection in the solenoid circuit since the voltage to activate the solenoid is fed from the ignition switch. All other solenoids that I have encountered only had the battery voltage on one bolt and the power wire to the starter on the other bolt. The plunger that connects the two when activated needs no other wiring. If I hadn't wasted so much time changing this thing, I would have certainly moved the battery cable to the outer terminal on the solenoid.

The reason the starter did not engage was that the starter was not seated well and threw the alignment off, perhaps enough to cause the Bendix to bind. But I wonder if the starter ground was insufficient all along. No problem now, finally put the new starter in and all is well.

I received good information from the forum and finally after my last attempt I was able to remove the starter and replace it. One thing that helped was the fact that while working on the starter job, I tackled an oil leak from the right front timing chain cover. Previous water pump change resulted in failed sealer around that cover. Since I was that deep into it, I removed the alternator/power steering pump tensioner assembly. I don't know if the clearance was already there when the assembly was in place, but after removal, I was able to get a long extension setup through there to get at that aggravating battery cable at the solenoid. (Used a socket on a 9 1/2" wobble extension with a 6 1/2" standard extension and a ratchet.) I did drive the front wheels onto my ramps which allowed a bit more working room under the vehicle before the final attempt. So thanks to all.

I was all set to take this thing to a shop and let them have the fun of replacing it, but perhaps now I have enough info to insure me that it can be done without a load of special tools and lifts, if only it can take me as little as three hours to do this job, since I put it back together and the starter is working. Anyway, I can now drive the thing up onto my ramps and get a bit more clearance under the vehicle. Thanks

Thanks for the added info. I doubt if this vehicle will require another starter before it becomes retired by me, but I am thinking of finding a way of extending that battery cable by way of a junction box and adding a short connection from that to the starter that will allow the starter cable to be removed with a lot less headache. If there is no internal connection to the cable that feeds the starter, I could also reverse the connections on the solenoid which would get the battery cable in position for removal before the starter is removed. If the existing cable has enough free length to make the connection on the opposite stud, then possibly a short extension on the starter motor feed wire would allow this reversal. I have spent enough time on this thing now to probably have been able to remove the engine to replace the starter. Also as to the fact that the starter was spinning after I reinstalled it, I believe that the only problem could have been a failed starter ground. But before removing it, I checked continuity from the starter case to ground and it checked OK. Unless I had the resistance set wrong on the meter. In that case I could have misread the meter and there was inadequate ground and when the starter voltage was applied, the ground connection failed completely. That's a long shot, because the solenoid was energizing when the starter failed to spin. Anyway, to be on the safe side, I have a new starter on the way and will change it. I believe the starter spinning and not engaging after I bolted it back in was due to a misalignment problem. After going back and loosening the two bolts and insuring the starter was fully seated and then torquing them down, the starter is working but now I don't trust it. I might add a ground wire to the starter bolt. So with all the answers on this site, I am ready to spend another day or so changing that starter if necessary.

Thanks for the information. I was able to remove both starter bolts without an overly long extension. The problem I have now is that I can't seem to find room or access to remove the battery connection from the solenoid. Tried with the starter still bolted in place then tried removing the bolts hopefully allowing me to rotate the starter far enough to gain access to the bolt/nut. But Nissan has a really tight fitting boot over that connection and I can't find a way to get at the nut. Is that where a super long extension comes into place? If that is the answer, I can find a way to get that boot out of the way. As an aside, I believe Nissan could have done us all a favor and switched the two connections at the starter solenoid to place the battery cable in a much easier to reach location. After rerunning all the procedures to check the circuit. I put everything back in place and attempted one more try at starting the vehicle. I don't have any idea at this time why but, the starter spins and the pinion does not engage the flywheel ring. That's when I became frustrated AGAIN and checked the site to look for an answer. Next step is to rotate the engine a few degrees and find out if the starter will engage. If so perhaps there is a missing tooth or more on the ring. But that still doesn't explain why the starter would not run in my other attempts. I could clearly hear the solenoid engaging, so suspected the starter even more. I suppose I should ask if you had your vehicle on a lift when you did the change, because I just have mine jacked up and blocked so it won't come crashing down. There is not a lot of room to maneuver around under there. Thanks

First time starter problem on any Pathfinder. Went through the manual check list and the last option is to replace the starter. So in the same section of the manual, there is an index heading that would lead me to believe that's the page with some instructions. On that page, all I could find was an exploded view of the starter showing the many parts. So just what is involved in changing out a starter on this thing? All I can tell so far is that it is in a tight spot and could have been the first part installed on the vehicle at the factory, and then everything else was installed to make it nearly impossible to simply unbolt the starter. Perhaps if the motor mount could be removed on the right side, that would free up some space for the job. That could have been the second part installed at assembly because it appears that is almost impossible to get at. So, can anyone point me in the correct direction? Other than the dealer. Thanks