gamellott

Thanks guys, You're always a great source for information and I appreciate it!! Not entirely off topic, but I was having an issue with my coolant not going back into the radiator when it cools down and I believe I have it fixed. The heat would go away when the radiator was low, so I thought it could have been that. Orrr... Maybe it's the actuator for the door just being intermittent. I work with electronics and know that old electronics become flaky as many of the electronics on the Pathy are becoming that way. Too many problems and not enough time to play and fix...

Sadly, it's been a hot minute since I've been here. I notice some things have changed ? On my 92' WD21, the heat stopped working. Everything else works fine. It's the electronically controlled version and I can't seem to find a thread that covers the topic very well. I'm sure this problem has been addressed before, but I can't find it... ? I'm assuming there is some kind of valve that controlls the water flow; where is that and is it very difficult to get to? The last time I had to replace a heater control valve was in an 81' 210, 25 years ago... This is not the same animal ?

What kind of paint did you use for this project. I've been contemplating doing something like this for some time, but haven't pulled that trigger yet.

I've got the same problem with my rear window. Do you have any part numbers that you can recommend for fitment??

I wouldn't mind seeing the schematic for the timer itself. If I'm thinking of a component level repair, I'll need it so I can figure out how the circuit works and assist in what to replace if necessary. I would guess that there's a 2 page tech manual on how it works somewhere.... But, as you mention, check to make sure that the switch is good as well.

I had a friend tell me that he put WD22 seats into one of his D21. As I understand it, they bolted right in.... Time for me to start looking....

I'm with ya, I don't think the motor is bad. I managed to do a little more research after I posted this and I managed to figure out where the timer was (The Tan Box you mention, that's no longer available from Nissan). I managed to take the timer apart today; No burned resistors or blown capacitors. There is a solid state transistor on it that might be failing. I'm pretty sure that's the culprit, but it's not like I can swap it out with a known good one from the dealer. I'll have to take apart the steering column in order to see if the variable speed control has a bad rheostat, and that's about to fall apart and I'm not so excited to tear into that just yet.... Off to figure out other electrical issues...

If they're anything like the MT, I don't believe that the transfer case will bolt up to the transmission. The output shaft on the transmission is likely different... But I'm not 100% However.... If you're going to make yours from a 4WD into a 2WD, No biggie. I would keep the drive shaft from the donor in case they're different.

I've had no issues going with a Gates Timing belt. Having sold Auto Parts in the past, that's what I would recommend. You get what you pay for in that department. When I did that, I goobered up my crankshaft sprocket when I was replacing the seal; I didn't care for the aftermarket pulleys available, so I went to Nissan for that. Some aftermarket parts aren't worth the powder to blow them up, but some are just as good and cheaper than OEM. If you go aftermarket, frequently, what's in the box isn't exactly what is shown in a picture and you're better off going to the store to see what you're getting before you pay for it.

Well... As the subject states, the wipers are random when intermittent. When I initially put it in that position, it does nothing for a few seconds and it may or may not start working, where it used to start right up. It works fine in the other 2 positions. I would think I had "Auto" wipers like in my wife's new beast, but NO!! Has anyone had any experience troubleshooting this in the past or is it just a matter of swapping out the motor? I have done a little bit of looking around and I see where there is some kind of Wiper Amplifier somewhere in the back. Is that something that affects this or is it another random part on the chassis that no one messes with?

Yea, I'm with Citron. Fix it before you wind up on the side of the road with warped heads. Something else, the thermostat housing is close to the water pump. You could have developed a leak around there that could appear to be from the water pump. Just worth a good stare to see if you can see where it's coming from.

I didn't know there was any diagnostic for that system. Good to know. I'll see what I can find because it's clearly affecting the hydraulics on mine, even if it is minimal. I'll have to make time to work on this because it's fairly low on my priorities, but I'm getting closer to being able to work on mechanical things vice construction around the house I tend to agree with you on the connector and moisture relation, but now, as discussed, it's turning a tad different than what it was. Before, it was just the light; Now, it's a little more. I'll start tearing into it sometime..... when I make time after it kills me

The light started lighting intermittently several months ago and it seemed to be when it's wet out. I can clear the light if I turn off the ignition and turn it back on. NOW, that has changed. Under light braking, intermittently, the brake pedal will will feel like it clicks once, pedal resistance goes down and it decelerates less, like something in the hydraulics triggered something and it's braking less. With that recent change, I'm now under the better impression that it's the modulator attached to the frame. Has anyone else experienced this and what was your remedy? I don't really want to spend a crap ton of money to replace the controller, sensor and computer...

Hmmm. It's been a while since I replaced mine. I Youtubed how to get it out after trying, to no avail, to get it out without prying it past the fender. Turns out I had to unmount the idler arm to pull it out the front. Aside from that, it was pretty simple, But mine is a Manual, not an auto magical hydraulic pump.

That's why I said 90% Even then, MOST can be avoided if you're paying attention to what other people are doing around you and put yourself at a good enough distance to react That lady that got hit by a tree on the interstate in Seattle a couple of weeks ago was clearly a wrong place at the wrong time scenario.

I hold the opinion that 90% of the time No. 1 is preventable as well as long as you're not being a complete Fartwaffle when driving.

I'm pretty sure that the mirrors between the D21 and WD21 are the same, if not the same/similar dimensions. My wife has had the new vehicles and they all have larger mirrors that seem to be positioned higher which create, IMHO, HUGE blind spots in front of you, that the Pathfinder never has. I would rather sacrifice poorer visibility behind me than in front of me. I find myself moving my body around trying to see around the mirrors because I can't see what's behind them. Newer is not always better.

Oh I love the network I'm on!! Retyping this again.... I believe Champion plugs are OEM on Chrysler products. You're always better off with "Like" material/products. There are slight variances in production between manufacturers that MAY cause performance issues. Nissan puts NGK spark plugs in their vehicles and you'll get better consistency/longevity out of the OEM ignition parts than most other variants. In Theory, Yes, they should work fine. In reality, they don't always work that well. Kinda along the lines of using GL5 gear oil in the transmission in this vintage vehicle. In theory, you can use it. In reality, it's not a wise idea. But that's a whole different discussion

I wonder.... Do you know if you have a circuit breaker or a fuse for your power windows? If it's a circuit breaker, you may have finally blown it and it won't reset. If it's a fuse, it's probably finally blown. If your power windows are like mine, and there's some kind of timing circuit for the "Power Down all the way", I wonder if that, if the timing circuit is broken, could be the root cause of your issues. The power windows do draw a bit of current, but I doubt that would cause your alternator to not charge. Maybe kill your battery when it's not running, but mine are tied into the run position on the ignition, and are disconnected in any other. I have more questions than answers at this point because there are quite a bit of differences between the model years.

Looks like someone has been compensating for something

Shame. With all of the work you have had done to it recently, I would spend the money to get whatever has happened to the engine fixed.

Slartibartfast, As I stated at the end. Just more info and making the comment that you CAN move stuff around You're absolutely silly if you think I'm going to put it all back together in a wonky position aside from TDC My eyeballs are not as good as they used to be and I'm not counting past 10 in order to line up a timing belt

I used the Ultra Low profile ones that AC sells on their website. I didn't have any problems with those. Unless you're Maxing out your torsion bars so that you're riding on the upper control arms all of the time, you shouldn't have any problems. They just allow for more travel... Like maybe an inch... or maybe that's wishful thinking...

What I'm trying to say.... As the crankshaft rotates, the pistons are all in different positions. It is possible to have the crankshaft rotated so that none of the pistons will create interference for the valves to move. Rotating by hand, with the spark plugs removed, is the best way to accomplish this. Just be aware of how much and where you rotate it so you don't have your distributor 180 out. And again, don't force any movement; you may cause valve damage if you force it and can't see where things are at. Does that make sense?? As discussed by other people, you may not even want to try to rotate if you have an adequate plan/tools to prevent valve damage. Just more info

When I replaced my timing belt, I replaced the Crank seal. Maybe mine was a bit more difficult than others, but my crank pulley was seized onto the crank. I couldn't find a puller specifically for removing it and there's only a few ways to get something behind it in order to get it off. I wound up using a couple of wood chisels, hammering them in behind the pulley. It took some time, but I finally got enough clearance to pull it using a gear puller. In the whole process, I managed to goober up the pulley and opted to replace it with a new one from Nissan. The aftermarket ones I saw exuded "Cheap Garbage" and I refused to use them. As long as none of your pistons are at the top of the stroke, you should have no problem or fear of rotating your camshafts. You will have the best results when you pull the bolts with an impact. If you try to use a wrench, you'll likely spin the shaft and get nowhere. If you turn everything by hand, you should be fine. Just don't use the starter to spin to motor over when you don't have a timing belt on Once I had the belt and pulley back on, I turned over the engine by hand to make sure everything lined up right and there wasn't any slop in the belt that I overlooked when I assembled it.