gamellott

I'm not sure what this PCU you mention is. There is a brain, and if the engine is running, and drives as suggested, I doubt it's faulty. It sounds to me as though power through the ignition switch might be bad, or possibly a chassis ground. There are a couple of fusible links near the battery that could also be bad that your mechanic didn't connect. Also, if those wires are corroded badly, they might not be able to carry enough current to light some things off. At least it's not an intermittent fault that is nearly impossible to troubleshoot.

I would go to the local salvage yard for hardware like that. The stuff you get from a hardware store is likely to have different dimensions that may be less than desirable. Also, I think it might be a hard NO to find something that big at the local hardware store. Not being a pessimist, just real

If you replace the water pump every time you replace the timing belt, as suggested, you won't have the problem of it wearing out. The sideload on the bearing from the belt is probably more problematic than the fan and clutch. Good money towards bad IMHO. Stop and go and hot? That's what the fan clutch is for. It's not as though this is an over bored Chevy 454 that actually runs incredibly hot. I'm not aware of any of these VG30's having a problem with overheating unless you have underlying problems already. Been there, done that Adding aftermarket fans, switches, sensors just makes things more complicated and will make things less reliable in the end. I have seen more electric fans/switches go bad than I have seen clutches actually go bad.

When I got my 92, it had 283K miles on it. It leaked from every single seal, including the steering box. If not already done, I would expect to have to replace them all in time. Rear wheel seals, rear main, and front transmission are all that are left to replace.... Simply haven't made the time to do those, and they're leaking all over the garage... Keep an eye on the fluid levels, including the coolant/antifreeze. What's the reason for shifting to an electric cooling fan? It just adds more components to fail, and if mounted directly to the radiator, it could wind up eating a hole into it, causing more problems.

Looking at Rock, The Standard or Beck Arnley would be my go-to parts. I find it interesting that they are the exact same price. Side story: When I got the new injectors for mine, I went with Beck Arnley and they appeared to be the exact same as the ones I pulled out. I have no reason to believe that they were ever replaced before.

If it's available, Beck Arnley parts are typically OEM parts re-packaged. You get what you pay for, but Shop around and compare apples to apples. When I was replacing the head gaskets on mine, NAPA sold the exact same Head Set as Rock for about $100 more.

So, as previously discussed, I have acquired a new outer seal for the sun roof. The question I have is what, exactly, should I glue it to the glass with. I was about to use some grey RTV that I had leftover in my tool box, but in short order, I realized this was a big mistake, and my small tube of 3M Black Weatherstrip adhesive disappeared. I have looked briefly at what is around and there is the 3M Black weatherstrip adhesive (Black and Super Black, Not sure what the difference is between those). Then there is Black Permatex RTV. All of which are probably a good choice, just curious which one Y'all have used and/or recommend. It lasted 30-some years till now.

The instructions on my visor have long ago curled up and turned into a goopy mess. I never read them. I made the assumption that it was only the instructions for the 4wd that my 95 D21 had. I guess it's time to have a closer look at it. Another reason why I would like to find an OEM owners manual. Either way, I found it to be a pleasant discovery and makes replacing the seal/gasket a WHOLE LOT easier.

So, I took a couple of minutes to dismantle the sunroof in order to replace the outer seal. Yes, I found one, brand new. Turns out that Nissan actually engineered this thing to be fully removed without tools. Press the two buttons on either side of the latch to completely unlatch it from the roof and turn it 90 degrees up and it slides out to the side. I did not know this was ever a thing. Knowledge is power

Mkay!! Now that I know... Hopefully I can get them out without breaking them. I suppose I should wait until the temperature gets above freezing outside though

They're all the white plastic ones. I haven't seen a single metal one. I only have one broken one and I'm sure I can go with merely one missing, but I'd like to keep them intact. The parts list only shows two part numbers for the clips. 2 on the bottom, pseudo expanding screws, and, what I would assume, the white plastic ones. The quantity required per vehicle is 4 or 5, which makes no sense because there are 10 or more... anyway... Junkyard is probably the right answer... will see what I can find

Now that I finally have a place and some time to do some minor rehab on the old girl, I was wondering if anyone knows how to remove/replace the plastic trim on the trailing edge of the rear side windows. There seems to be plenty of play, but they don't seem to want to come out. I mean, I can simply mask the crap out of it and paint it, but I would rather try to remove, clean and paint... An FSM probably has this procedure in it... OTOH, Like all of the rest of the plastic, if I touch it with any force, it's probably going to break... Anyway, Thanks in advance!!

Long story short, I broke one of the retaining clips for interior trim on the liftgate door. I've found the Nissan PN 76932-01E01, but nothing seems to be available anywhere. A quick search on the Doorman (Massive supplier of random fasteners) website found nothing. I got a hit on Amayama, but I would rather get something here in the US. Does anyone have a source for these? I'm sure I could find one at a Junk Yard a lot cheaper than one with shipping from Japan... I used to think these things were common... Guess again....

Ya, Dumb. Literally, with all of the 30yo plastic in this thing that is cracking/breaking, in many instances, I'm not going to take it apart if I don't have to It seems, based on my reading of other things, the California models do have the light and label.... probably causes cancer too...

It's sounding to me like something is preventing the gear from popping out to engage the flywheel. Unless you have underlying issues with your flywheel that needs to be addressed, I recommend biting the bullet and getting a new starter as opposed to trying to rebuild it yourself. I didn't know the interlock switch was ever illuminated Mine must have burned out long ago. To my knowledge, that switch only allows you to start the vehicle without depressing the clutch.

I took a close look at the dash and there is nothing that is labeled as a check engine. All lenses have a label next to them except the upper left lens, and I cannot make out if there is anything on that lens. All of the lower ones are labeled, except there is blank area that could have a light off to the left of the rear window defogger indication on the lower left. Could it be the unlabeled upper left lens? If so, I wonder why they labeled or didn't label it that way? The only light that comes on when I turn it on is the seatbelt reminder. Everything else works perfectly.

I have a 92' and I have never seen this elusive Check Engine Light that some people have spoken of, of this vintage, even when I did have a problem that would have illuminated one. Just trying to find out if I have one or not really. Or... is there something online that is a repository for this resource?

As far as finding the hose, I discovered it when I was changing the spark plugs and it ran like crap after the job. Same thing, found the hose cracked and I have since replaced it. Truly an obscure little hose.... But now that you know about it, you'll know where to look

From the "Read First" Section: "Power Door Locks locking or unlocking on their own Sometimes during cold weather, hot weather, or just for no reason at all, the power door locks will either pop back up after locking or stay locked without letting the lock cylinder turn and unlock the door. The mechanical assembly connecting the lock cylinder itself to the inner door lock and armatures are mated by the use of small plastic parts that wear out and then break over time." In the previous paragraph, there is no actual "Fix" discussed. Or did I do it again and miss it? A little background on mine: The drivers side lock cylinder was broken and the core had rotted out and did not work when initially purchased. When cold, the doors would periodically re-lock when trying to unlock from the passenger's side. Circa 2014, the driver's side lock cylinder was replaced with new and new key. Operation from driver's side is slow in the winter and frequently resists unlocking and frequently re-locks. I'm 98% under the impression that it's the actuator that needs service/lube/replacement or complete disconnection from the system if unserviceable. But in lieu of recent problems that didn't meet my troubleshooting experiences, What's the actual fix?

Ok, in the slight case that anyone was wondering what happened to all of this.... I bought and swapped out the switch with no changes. Knowing that there is almost nothing in the circuit aside from a switch, I looked around the wiring harness, looking for signs of mice and destruction. Nothing... I pulled the bulb that was out and then my high beam indications on the dash returned to normal. I just happened to have a spare bulb in my toolbox and popped it in. Ta-Da!!! everything is back to normal. Does anyone need a slightly used headlight switch now? So, in retrospect, I recommend pulling the bulb first if this ever happens. Nothing seems to be typical with this thing

That's a good find. Mine has over 300K miles and have had to overhaul the rear calipers on an annual basis because they seize from rust.

I recently went through the whole top end of my VG30 and I will agree that it was a giant pain. I can't imagine having to do it on some of the newer engines that really have a lot more sensors, plastic, and crap to control the engine. I have never had a real problem getting any of the spark plugs out of the heads. It's that damned vacuum line next to #6 that keeps getting knocked off and making it run rough. I credit my luck to this because it appears as though the previous owners did keep it pretty clean and appeared as though they only took it to Nissan Dealers. Belts, hoses, everything that I would have gotten at NAPA, or some other parts store, were OEM Nissan parts. Getting to the spark plugs on the drivers side is pretty much a straight shot unless you have debris, as mentioned, preventing you from getting a good bite on the plug. But ya... When I tore it down, I did find the holes filled with oil from leaking valve covers. So... the drains in mine, that I didn't know about until now, are likely blocked.

I'm ok with having to order things. It's the fact that some of the replacement parts are not available period. If someone were to make more aftermarket parts... that would be great... But I am seeing fewer and fewer of these critters on the road nowadays anyway... I'm pretty sure these things don't even create any kind of spike in the "collector" world, so there is little to no market for it.

@Slartibartfast I had a 95' D21 years ago that I was fanatical about turning the screws to the left until they clicked and then screwed them back in place. 12 years ago, that thing was in pristine condition. A lot, I would wager most, of the people do not know how to preserve plastic screw receptacles, as well as sheet metal screws. It's been a while, but the kickplates are not at all easy to take out without F-ing the screws up too. Not to be racist, but you must be ginger taking those out ? I'm not tall. Some would consider calling me under-average height. I have never hit my knee(s) on the column crash pad unless the seat was pushed all the way up for whatever random reason. All of the parts are in that I can get for the rear end and I'll follow up with any interesting results. Should be this weekend... ish... maybe... I have to get my motorcycle to get back on the road as well now that the weather is getting nicer.... and gas is still espensive...

Thanks, I might have to hit you up on that if it proves to be terminal. It might take me a while to get there and figure out if I really need a replacement or not, as it's not exactly anywhere on my priority list.