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gamellott

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  • Content Count

    79
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  • Last visited

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12 Good

About gamellott

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Basically Stock, most everything works.
  • Place of Residence
    Seabeck
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1992

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kitsap, Washington
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

1,116 profile views
  1. No, no pic. I was too busy cleaning it up and reassembling it to wash my hands to handle electronics . I used a stainless steel wire wheel in order to clean off all of the rust. The piston appeared discolored and had some buildup on it, but I was able to clean it up and make it smooth again with steel wool. Still looks discolored, but it is smooth. I didn't have any brake cleaner to flush it out this time, so I used isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle instead, and compressed air. Worked pretty good. No issues in reassembly or inspection of the rubber. Again, I've only experienced seizures like this on the rear.
  2. Rust is building up under the inner seal and between the inner and outer seal. Over time that rust seizes the caliper, F's the rotors up and destroys the pad. What, if anything, can you do to prevent this rust. It has been 2 years since I rebuilt the rear calipers and I just had to tear them apart again for this exact reason. As I was taught years ago, I reassemble the brakes with brake fluid as a lubricant. Should i be using something else and pack the boot with some kind of grease? This is not the first time I have run into this. I have experienced this on multiple vehicles with rear disk brakes, but for me, never the front. What's the deal??
  3. Possibly the coolant temperature sensor telling the computer that it's already up to temp when it's actually cold. That would be my first thought.
  4. Cross your jumper cables and you will definitely smoke that wire
  5. I would almost rather convert over to drum. As of the moment, the parking brake only works on one wheel and not very effectively, because the cable is seized on the drivers side. I have looked for a replacement at the parts stores and have not found one that will work (the mounting assemblies are different) Probably cataloged wrong, but clearly not for my ride. I have a suspicion that if I found one at a junkyard, I would find ones in the same condition as what I already have, which is not good.
  6. It took me a hot minute in order to find it. In the 30 years in dealing with cars, and having worked in an auto parts store (20+ years ago) this was the first time I had to try to look for this, and it wasn't an easy find, because I was looking in the HVAC section when I needed to be looking in the electrical.... I'm pleasantly surprised that they're not that expensive. Thank your for your insight!!
  7. Sooo.... After looking at the illustrations that Nissan provides, I don't know exactly which part it is that I'm looking for, but it doesn't look like there are any parts available for this anyway. I'm under the impression that if the mixing door motor is failing, I might simply have to convert it over to manual, or figure some other way to skin a cat... Start stalking the local boneyards... Because WE NEED a heater in WA....
  8. I had replaced the radiator, it was the original and leaking all around the seams and the cap was brand new, so I looked elsewhere... I found that the hose within the tank was just barely hanging on to the tube, so I threw some lockwire around it in order to seal the hose in place. Since it's not my daily driver now that its warmed up a bit, I haven't been keeping an eye on it. If it continues with intermittent heat, I'll have a look into those motors. Are the gears available for replacement somewhere? Napa and Rockauto shows squat for parts available, or I'm looking under the wrong rock.
  9. That's some really good information, hard to figure it out though. Wish it was more "year" specific though. You guys wouldn't happen to have the resources to actual electronic/schematic drawings with specifications on resistors, capacitors and other random components, would you?? I have a few things that I might want to rebuild.... since some of my stuff has become... glitchy... The resistors, in my experience, tend to be the high failure components and tend to go out of tollerance and are usually the culprit. But like anything else, the drawings for those are hard to come by.
  10. Thanks guys, You're always a great source for information and I appreciate it!! Not entirely off topic, but I was having an issue with my coolant not going back into the radiator when it cools down and I believe I have it fixed. The heat would go away when the radiator was low, so I thought it could have been that. Orrr... Maybe it's the actuator for the door just being intermittent. I work with electronics and know that old electronics become flaky as many of the electronics on the Pathy are becoming that way. Too many problems and not enough time to play and fix...
  11. Sadly, it's been a hot minute since I've been here. I notice some things have changed On my 92' WD21, the heat stopped working. Everything else works fine. It's the electronically controlled version and I can't seem to find a thread that covers the topic very well. I'm sure this problem has been addressed before, but I can't find it... I'm assuming there is some kind of valve that controlls the water flow; where is that and is it very difficult to get to? The last time I had to replace a heater control valve was in an 81' 210, 25 years ago... This is not the same animal
  12. What kind of paint did you use for this project. I've been contemplating doing something like this for some time, but haven't pulled that trigger yet.
  13. I've got the same problem with my rear window. Do you have any part numbers that you can recommend for fitment??
  14. I wouldn't mind seeing the schematic for the timer itself. If I'm thinking of a component level repair, I'll need it so I can figure out how the circuit works and assist in what to replace if necessary. I would guess that there's a 2 page tech manual on how it works somewhere.... But, as you mention, check to make sure that the switch is good as well.
  15. I had a friend tell me that he put WD22 seats into one of his D21. As I understand it, they bolted right in.... Time for me to start looking....

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