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gamellott

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gamellott last won the day on January 20

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Basically Stock, most everything works.
  • Place of Residence
    Seabeck
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1992

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kitsap, Washington
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Ya, fuel efficiency is not particularly great, but it can be decent. I did experience 21 Mpg on this thing once, but that was moderately slower driving and not fast highway speed. I don't know if the gearing is different between regions, but these things here in the US, at the time, were geared to have an optimum speed of 55 Mph. The highway speeds are significantly higher now than what they were 30 years ago and the higher RPM is going to consume fuel at a higher rate. Nominally, I get about 17 Mpg in this rig. It's not great, but considering I keep it for about one purpose, I'll take it.
  2. When I picked up my 92 with 285Kmiles on it, it leaked from every single seal. Look for leaks, fix them if you're capable of doing it and keep an eye on the fluids. I also noticed within the past year, I was consuming coolant/antifreeze. It turned out to be a leaking head gasket into one of the cylinders. With anything as old as these are getting, you're going to be looking at long haul issues like leaks and head gaskets.... etc... Cam Belt/Timing Belt being changed on a regular basis is a necessity. Whenever that's done, it's also a good idea to replace the water pump and belt tensioner Aside from age issues, they're pretty solid. The one big problem I have observed, some parts are no longer available anywhere unless you go to a salvage yard. You may have better luck on your side of the pond though. Good Luck!!
  3. Thule makes pedestals and cross bars that will work. They're not cheap though.
  4. Provided they're still available, the factory replacement voltage regulator is not a solder job. In the thread, I believe, that was a work around. However, considering the age of the vehicle and parts availability, that might be the only way.. When I had the fuel gauge failure, it also took out the temp gauge as well. Once I replaced the regulator, they both worked. This was also 7 years ago... 24866-54A00 is the Part number I bought. There are 2 different kinds if my memory is correct. It appears as though you can still find them in places. You can contact the dealer to see which one you need based on your VIN https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-regulator-assembly-2486654a00
  5. I recommend checking, cleaning all of the connectors you have off to the left (Passenger side front of valve cover). I discovered that, sometimes, these connectors can get so dirty that they actually lose their connection. Short of the charging system, all of the wires that control/run the motor go through that bundle. Also, there is a ground tab on the distributor (Should be on the front of it). Make sure that is connected as well (When I went through the heads on mine, that wire broke).
  6. I can't see the videos, but the sensor next to your oil filter should be your oil pressure switch. The orangish looking boot is just a dust cover for it.
  7. Until it's constant, it's kinda hard to speculate. Mine had a moment years ago where it ran like crap for a short time and then nothing... It could have been something as simple as water in the fuel I guess. I would definitely check to see what the computer thinks it has a problem with.
  8. I've been wanting to do the same. I think most of that stuff is nearly unobtainium right now. Maybe Safelite or one of the glass companies has a source for the rubber. Past that, if you're looking for the plastic pieces of trim, you're likely going to have to go to a junk yard.
  9. @RainGoatThat's some crazy @!*%. I did some skimming and I would tend to attribute the battery(ies) dying due to the Texas Heat and then Cold in the winter, or likely some other external factor/abuse. Batteries die at a rapid rate down in the south, especially after a cold snap below freezing where a bad cell will rear it's ugly head. Also, if you do put 2 batteries in parallel, you better get 2 of the same size, brand new, at the same time so one battery will be less likely to kill the other because it has a marginal cell. If you don't, you're inviting trouble. Battery problems don't seem to happen so much here in the PNW unless you deplete them and let them sit uncharged.
  10. The original voltmeter that has a range from 6 to 18VDC is not that great of an indicator. It works, don't get me wrong. A working range of 10-15VDC would be preferable with the given range of the OE meter. With that in consideration, I prefer to have some kind of backup, especially considering these rigs are approaching 30some years old and the electronics get glitchy with age. Even though it's a cheap chinese meter, it works and seems to be accurate enough.
  11. High output alternators have a higher current (amperage) rating. If that alternator is somehow achieving the higher output with a higher voltage past the initial charging of the battery when you start it up, then there is something wrong. Batteries, when fully charged, will have a float voltage around 13.6 VDC as indicated using a good digital readout (And that is good). If you've been driving for a while and you battery voltage is indicating 14+VDC or conversely 12-VDC , there is a problem. Your battery may have a bad connection, wires badly corroded, alternator not working correctly... etc... The one reason to have a high output alternator is if you have added a equipment that will be used for an extended amount of time that exceeds the current output of your alternator. If you're running a stock rig and you don't have all of that stuff that would tax your alternator, you don't need to spend the money on the HO alternator. Now, if you've added a winch and a lot of lights, then you just might need that extra current. I would suspect, if you have a winch, and you anticipate using it a lot, your best bet would be to have a second battery since you may not be in the vehicle and it will likely be idling. At Idle, most alternators aren't going to be putting out much current, regardless of being a high output alternator or not.
  12. If your voltage remains at 14vdc once the battery is fully charged, you will eventually cook it off. Higher voltage, although desirable in some instances, is not good for your battery if it's already charged. BT.. If you're judging the 14Vdc by the analog gauge on the dash, I recommend installing a digital one. I installed one in the cigarette lighter along with 2 USB connections. Great upgrade!!
  13. 92' has a CEL? I have never seen or noticed one on mine, and I had a bad coolant temp sensor connection for a long time.... Maybe its burned out... I'll have to have a look... The only way I knew I had a problem is when I queried the computer.
  14. If you're going for the VG30, you can piecemeal the gasket set from Rock Auto a lot cheaper (Fel-pro) and where they sell/use the paper gaskets, simply use silicone like they did OEM. But if you want to go for the $43 head gasket, go ahead I'm not judging
  15. Today is day two since I have had it all finished and completed my commute to and from work. The engine appears to have a little more power (I really notice it when I'm climbing hills). It runs a LOT smoother. The annoying hickup just past idle is gone, and I can release the clutch without giving a quick flick of the gas to get it to go without stuttering. Oh, and the exhaust is not noticeably leaking. Because it was sitting for so long, The dash lights independently turn on and off at will. Sometimes they're all off. The door dinger that notifies me that I either left my lights on or keys in the ignition, is silent. The list goes on and on... It appears as though I will be cleaning electrical switches and stuff when the weather warms up and/or I have a dry place to work in Projects for another day
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