Citron

PO171 I believe is the code for a lean condition. Since you already replaced the MAF, the next thing would be to look for vacuum leaks downstream of the MAF. Ethanol is the devil.

+1 on using the old race to install the new one. Removes the chance of nicking the new race with a punch. I preload my bearings a little differently than towndawg, but his way seems more reliable for someone that has never done bearings before. After you do a lot of them you can spin the rotor and feel for the proper preload. LittleFR is right. My bearings were loose on the pathfinder, I pulled them and they were in fine shape, so repacked them with grease, and reinstalled with the proper preload, and no problems now. After cleaning all the old grease out of the bearing, hold the inner race still and spin the bearing. If it feels gritty or doesn't spin smoothly, then replace it. Otherwise, pack it with grease and reuse. After you replaced the pads you noticed a leak on the master cylinder. The piston in the brake caliper has to be compressed when new pads are installed for the caliper to fit back over the rotor. When you compress the piston, it forces the fluid out and back into the master cylinder reservoir. Doing both sides can force enough fluid back that some spills out around the lid of the master cylinder reservoir. Then when you press the brake, fluid goes back to the caliper. This could account for both the leak, and the low fluid level. Sorry if you already knew all this, I just want to prevent you replacing parts that are still good.

Makes sense. I have heard of oil additives to clean out gunk buildup, but I have never used any.

Try a bearing and drive shop. I have had good luck with McGuire bearing in Tacoma. Alaska Bearing and Drive is good in Anchorage. Those are the only two I have experience with.

Why change the oil so often?

I never would have expected that. Thanks for the update, it is nice knowing how an issue was fixed.

Wow, another stolen wd21. I have nothing else to add.

First, where can you legally go 80-90 mph? Whatever the recommended tire pressure is on the sticker on the door jamb would be good. I would give it a thorough once over. Preform a lube oil filter service. Check all the fluids. If you aren't comfortable doing that, then take it to a reputable mechanic and ask them to do an inspection. It should make it no problem. And if you do have problems, it's not like you are in the middle of nowhere on the east coast. As for mileage, if you haven't done a tune up in the last 50000 miles, doing one wouldn't hurt.

Welcome Don and comcaller. Plenty of information and knowledge around here.

I think its great. I think the speed is fine, I would probably edit out most of the on pavement part, just personal opinion. I look forward to seeing more of your exploration.

Moog is a decent brand. Even the cheapest auto parts store links you can find should last longer than that. +1 on checking the sway bar bushings. Also, have you done any suspension mods that may be contributing to the issue? Are you drifting around all the corners? 😀

All I can suggest is looking at the wiring diagram to see everything that is off of that fuse. Since you are blowing fuses, you probably have a direct short to ground on the power wire. If your voltmeter does ohms, I would pull the fuse. Then disconnect the connector at the device (twilight, switch etc.) put the meter on ohms, and one lead on the power wire to the device, and touch the other lead to a good ground. If any of the power wires test low ohms to ground, then that is the faulty one. Trace it out to find the short. Also you can inspect the wiring harness going back to the taillights and look for any damage. If you have a trailer light connector, that would be a good place to start.

Cool. Yeah, 18nm isn't much more than finger tight. Often, all you need to do is compress a gasket or oring to keep something from leaking. People have the tendency to over torque things, and then deform the gasket or oring and the item leaks so they torque more. I am glad you got it going though.

You can convert NM to ft-lbs with Google. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. Generally, I only torque critical things, like head bolts, rockers, pinion nuts etc. Valve covers, oil pans, alternators, exhaust bolts, I just make tight while being mindful of the size of the bolt, what material it is threading in and the purpose of it.

I have seen tranny jack attachments for floor jacks. That being said, I usually use a plain floor jack and cross my fingers because I am too cheap to buy a good tranny jack. I have never tried this on a 4wd though, just 2wd Chevies and AWD Subaru. Last time I did a tranny on a 4wd I was working at a dealer, so had a lift and proper tranny jack.

A tranny jack should have spots on them to hook up chains. You chain the tranny to the jack before completely removing it to prevent the tranny from falling. Luckily for you, your knee was there to keep the tranny from getting hurt.

Cylinder 1 is the front passenger.

Yeah, I have never had an issue with theft when living in rural areas. Even small cities though, I have had things stolen.

I am kind of thinking it is a control issue. Either bad inputs (sensors) into the ECU, or a failing ECU. Do you know anyone with a running pathfinder of a similar year that you could swap ECUs and see if that works?

Do you know the last time the timing belt was replaced?

Boy that's weird. I don't think it's any sort of mechanical problem that I can think of. I would think a bad sensor would show a code. Check and see if there is a TSB on something like this. Sorry I can't offer any ideas.

No this is not possible. If anything, it would be the turbine in the torque converter, not the pump. The pump is solidly connected to the torque converter case, which is solidly connected to the flywheel. As others have said, nearly all the bellhousing bolts would need to be loose, but even then the tranny and motor mounts should hold things close enough. Also, the skid plate has nothing to do with it, skid plates are not structural. They are feeding you a line.

Keep us posted on what you find.

I have always wondered about those. Some people swear by them. I wonder if they make a difference on engines with more restrictive intakes. I understand that the VG flows really well stock. People say the vk56 has a restrictive intake and cold air intakes make a difference. Never could put my money down to find out though.

When you are cranking over an engine, before it starts, the injectors are still pumping fuel in to the cylinder. Once it starts, not all of the fuel that was pumped in gets burned, so you generally get a slight unburned fuel smell out of the exhaust. I have smelled it on brand new vehicles sitting on the lot. I may have an over sensitive nose though. When I say short time in the previous post, I mean like 15 secs or so, just long enough for that initial fuel to clear the exhaust.