onespiritbrain

Mines does something similar on the interstate.. I'd say 20hz, metallic vibration. Mine is a bushing somewhere that's gone. I'd say about every half mile or so and in every curve there is a slight change in the texture of the cement and it causes harmonic vibrations in my suspension. There is one particular curve that causes the vibration to become loud and less uniform. This doesn't happen at all, never, on blacktop curves, even at highway speeds. It does however happen in some parking lots at very slow speeds if the texture of the cement is just the right roughness. It should be noted that the same problem area makes a single noticeable metallic clank if my trans isn't warm enough for lockup yet and I let off the gas at 60mph and up. I might also have wheel bearing issues.. Does your issue ever flare up in certain areas? Take notice of exactly where you are and your speed at the place where the vibration occurs and try to replicate the issue. That should tell you whether or not you are experiencing harmonic reverberations caused by the road. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was going to mount it higher but after I get my hawse fairlead I won't have lost hardly any approach angle from the stock hang of the bumper. Of course I do scratch the bumper pretty hard about every time I go out... hmmm.. I'll have to be extra careful, probably will just plow ahead anyway haha. But If I had put it higher then there would've been a lot more stress on the bolts holding everything together during a pull. There really isn't much on the front with enough strength to mount a winch. If I had gone higher, straight pulls would probably be fine but I wouldn't be comfortable with anything off center. Also, I didn't go up in bolt size to mount the winch. M12 bolts would have been a different story but I kept the M10's and upgraded to grade 12.9 @ 250ftlbs. Really even with grade 12.9 M12 bolts I'm afraid a hard off center pull would cause trouble. Of course I am probably exaggerating the forces involved in my mind.. I am in desperate need of a lift. Once I have my lift installed, which will hopefully happen in June, I will look at bumper mounting options and relocating the winch to a higher position on the new bumper. I looked up the HF winch mount and it looks exactly like the one I bought of Amazon from Megabrands for $35. Strong points of contact for mounting anything heavy on the front are non existent. It looks like everything up there is designed to crush and absorb impact forces from a crash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I forgot to put the can at the road this morning... luckily my winch was there to save me from loading week old ripped trash bags full of funk(I have a 1.5yr old) on my roof or worse in my trunk! I love this thing already! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I finally have a winch on my vehicle! No more getting stuck and having to make that embarrassing phone call. So I started by removing the bumper and grill. Then I just propped the plate up where it made the most sense to me and offered the most bracing. The plate I bought was almost the exact right width to match up with the front pull points. I had to trim about .75" on each side to make way for the 5/8x2.5" flat bar. I tacked the flat bar in place and propped it up again to figure out how to bolt everything down. Placement looked good so I went ahead and welded everything. I used the front pull point brackets to place my center punch for drilling the bolt holes. I propped the plate and pressed everything tightly against the "frame". When I say frame I mean the black metal that spans the front between the two metal crush bumpers. While tightly pressed I used the front pull brackets to mark where on the flat bar to hold the bracket for center punching. Then I took everything to the bench for punching and drilling. Next I relocated the solenoid. Just mark everything carefully and it's easy. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/ffe481036f5d10f7be426a16783c256f.jpg Hard part is done! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/1ad21710fd14e585bbcbba7332a0d126.jpg With everything buttoned back up https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/3525931b779e3ce763081ea28cf4ea38.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/482a5a1fbd538440242fec40ace824b5.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/bb1fbd8d14e163887154463bbf6e261a.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170313/74737cd4cd7314de9dee27328774dc21.jpg Now I don't have to turn around because there's a puddle in the road. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude... that looks awesome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Prepping for stock bumper winch mount [emoji51] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Boom! worth it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make sure nothing is pressing against the throttle cable. I had mine incorrectly routed after my timing belt replacement and mine idled high, about 11-1200rpm. I'd grab a hold of the cable and gently wiggle it about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What are your part numbers? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good job dude Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh crud, I wonder if I have this ICC you speak of.. I'm about to put a winch on the front of mine. I'll be keeping the stock bumper and cutting a place out of it for the winch but I hope I don't kill my cruise control.. it's the source of the vg33s only way to get decent gas mileage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get the sensor they say you need from the junk yard bro. Just insist they show you exactly what sensor they're talking about. Then when the tech puts his finger on it snap a pic. Then smile at them and head to the yard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Subscribed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

17.1 not too shabby Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As soon as I leave work I will stop by a station and we'll see what I get using cruise control and being light on the pedal. It looks like around 18mpg.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isn't it strange that people experience similar issues together.. So to gain access to the nuts hidden by the heat shield you might be able to use a hole saw which is the diameter of the socket you're going to use. I would take the hole saw and remove the drill bit from the middle. Use a long drill bit extension and hammer the hole saw up against the hidden nuts. When you have created a solid impression in the heat shield the hole saw should be sort of locked in place. Attach a drill and begin drilling the heat shield out. If it works the way I see it working in my mind you should be left with a perfect hole to access those nuts. Here are the hole saw and extension I'm referring to: http://www.toolnut.com/milwaukee-49-56-0043-1-hole-saw.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KEQiAlsrFBRCAxcCB54XElLEBEiQA_ei0DIJwY9yxBZyLbEz-6gKIIIfTQLUWLOSMiIpwV2LKPq0aAtF08P8HAQ https://www.zoro.com/milwaukee-bit-extension-all-hex-24-x-716-in-48-28-1060/i/G5136467/?gclid=Cj0KEQiAlsrFBRCAxcCB54XElLEBEiQA_ei0DPhaXvz2rZt2yS3nLBVz7h0U-IwceVPm0CCGGW-Vl0saAqZT8P8HAQ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm getting 14.5 mpg now... and my "lean condition" code came back right at the 100 mile mark.. Okay so now I am going to repeat the mileage test using cruise control. I think I may be laying on the gas heavier since the exhaust isn't blaring loud. The loud exhaust may have been an aid in operator control since I was doing everything possible to drive as quietly as possible, and cruise control was by far better than me at giving it the least amount of gas possible per mph. Also I had a full size floor jack, two big jack stands, and my 100# toolbox in the back for the last 100 miles. After that, if I still have junk mpg, I am going to unplug the bank 1&2 o2 sensor 2's. If my 19mpg returns then I may leave it in this condition. Before I leave it with bank 1&2 o2 sensor 2's deleted, I am going to find the source of the lean code and fix it.. Maybe I'll try to find the source of the lean code first... I don't know. My wife's vehicle has it's power steering high pressure hose leaking like a sieve. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So it is possible... as I am researching the subject it looks like, to a point, running lean can dramatically increase engine efficiency. Combustion temperature does increase quite a bit and more nox is created but efficiency is definitely increased. I am not going to do this but I won't lie, I am tempted to take it all back out, gut the pre and main cats, delete bank 1&2 o2 sensor 2's(replace with resistor), and install a fine adjustment globe valve to purposely get it running lean... 19 miles per gallon is tempting. It really is.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No more cel and she is quiet as a mouse again! Initial impression regarding mpg is that I am not getting great mileage now that I've got everything back together.. I am at 44 miles of 100 and the needle is in the same position it was at 60-65 miles yesterday. Is it possible that a vacuum leak was causing me to have better gas mileage?!? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you guys. I am going to make repairs tomorrow afternoon. This is a great forum, thanks again. Just to gloat.. I mean note, just to note, I am getting 19- yes, you read that right, 19 miles to the gallon!!! My wife's vehicle stays on full 100 years after a fill up and when comparing usages through the week I always feel like mine gets terrible gas mileage but I'm actually getting 4 miles a gallon better! Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So that hose is going directly into the back side of the intake manifold and the hose, in addition to being sucked flat, has a big hole where air may be pulled in to the intake. Sooooo might this hose have gotten way too hot from poor timing? The timing belt was so loose when I changed it that I could pull it off without adjusting the tensioner. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pre cats too? Or only the main cats? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't have access to an obd2 reader. I have just about decided to buy one of the Bluetooth ones from Amazon... But wouldn't a rich condition cause the cats to disintegrate, ultimately causing a clog in the exhaust and a lean code at o2 sensor 2? I don't think air can get to the actual wire from the top of it being cracked. I'm going to silicone it lightly for now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I found this collapsed hose.. I believe it's the EGR?? Might this be the cause of my lean code? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought this might be a lonely road.. So I am in the process of repairing all the broken bolts before I reinstall everything. I just don't know what to do.. the pre cats are glowing about the same on both the driver and passenger.. I would like to just replace them but the pre cats are 3-4 times more expensive and I just don't have the money.. plus they appear to be in OK condition. I want to remove them to have a look see at the engine side since that would be where the clogging would be, but the bolts are impossible to get to with the heat shield on and I'm afraid I won't be able to get the heat shield back on once I get it off and that will leave me in a worse condition than when I started. Today I noticed that the top of my MAF sensor is cracked. If turbulent air is making its way in to the MAF from the road or radiator fan then maybe this was the source of all my woes. Anyone ever see Catalytic System Too Lean because of a MAF? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk