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onespiritbrain

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Everything posted by onespiritbrain

  1. Good lord that thing looks good. You should take that somewhere scenic and enter the pic in the TOTM.
  2. The camera makes them look blue but they are actually more white to the eye than blue. I replaced all the bulbs with LEDs.
  3. Hands down best reason for a light bar :]
  4. We are wearing our COVID collection devices here in Georgia. Unfortunately 99.999% of those who wear masks don’t understand the diligence required to make them effective or the danger they pose as dedicated disease spreading devices (like cellphones). Luckily if we hide in our homes and behind our masks for long enough the virus will pack it’s bags and head back to China.
  5. +1 for the TPS. My TPS was worn on the spot where I cruised at highway speeds and that caused the trans to think I was accelerating for quick bursts which made the lockup solenoid flutter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  6. Might just be the cheap butt moogs. I installed new moog springs on all corners and mine sags as bad as it did before I installed them..
  7. I don’t think I’ve measured temps since installing the external cooler but I’d say my external cooler is only a little lower in temp than when I’ve felt my radiator at 185degF but is still hot to the touch after highway driving, and that’s with gobs of 70mph airflow. If I had to guess I’d say 150-160degF area. I always forget to grab the temp gun before I hit the trails so Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  8. Near zero air flow when the fan isn’t running, and for my particular setup, only low fan speed unless the coolant temp is over 215. It could be a non issue, I’ve never measured temps or anything. It’s just something I end up finagling with when off-roading because I worry about the trans getting too hot. The internal radiator cooler causes trans temps to follow engine temps. When all you have is an external cooler then the engine temp could be normal while the trans is literally cooking itself. Again, this might never ever happen but for all I know while I’m off-roading, it’s occurring right then and there, so I end up worrying about it.
  9. I have a big external cooler but I bypassed the internal radiator completely. Now the trans can heat up independently from the engine instead of sharing their heat loads, which is actually a good thing except in extreme cold and off-road situations. I should’ve left the internal cooler in the circuit before the external cooler. I might valve the internal cooler back in and just have it where I can take it back out for normal summer daily driving. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  10. And a reason NOT to delete the cooler inside the radiator. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. I bring my fan clutch with me on long/tough trails and I really need a kill switch and a forced high speed switch for my efan. Right now at water crossings I end up running the ac before I get to the crossing so the engine temp is low enough that when I cut the ac off my efan cuts off as well. It’s annoying.. Then there’s 4wheeling transmission temps to worry about. I suspect that the trans gets hotter than normal with the efan since there are often periods of near zero air flow.. again I combat this by leaving the ac on or cycling the ac when I think about the trans getting to hot, which isn’t fun to worry about when your trying to have a good time. I have to agree that the mechanical fan is a lot better off road in several regards. However, I don’t know if it was a worn out fan clutch or what but I have better control over engine temps with the efan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  12. Well I did replace the fan clutch, but it was with a part from the junk yard so it’s possible that I did have an air flow issue but now I can feel a large amount of air being pulled across the condenser when I couldn’t before. The mechanical fan would blow a huge amount of air toward the engine— more than the electric fan for sure, and it had to be coming from somewhere, but I know for sure there’s a lot more air coming across the condenser with the electric fan. Maybe it’s how close the electric fan is (increased air speed at the condenser) to the radiator surface, and subsequently the condenser, that causes more air to be drawn across the condenser. Maybe there was some sort of OEM baffle that had been removed that forces the air to be pulled across the condenser instead of drawing air in from the open space between the radiator and condenser. Edit: I think this is what you were saying with the foam that degrades and falls out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  13. When my youngest son was tiny my ac wasn’t cold enough to provide any relief from the summer heat and I used to slowly pour water bottles over the condenser haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  14. Is that the breather coming out of the front end of the motor??? Heh?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  15. So did 4WD work at all that day prior to the problem? I have seen very dark fluid come from my tcase after just a couple years of use, granted there was some serious 4wheeling during that time. I suspect the ATX14A’s do get hot when pushed.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  16. I insulated the low pressure lines in mine as well and I can tell a difference. I don’t care what anyone says to the contrary, that big aluminum plumbing absorbs heat energy that has to be removed by the condenser and insulating it makes a difference. Someone could calculate the surface area of the plumbing and approximate the ambient heat load inside the engine bay (especially the section that is clamped behind the belt tensioner) to see exactly how much it helps. I have seen a couple degreesF lower temps at the vents (w/ fan on high). I’ll tell you what makes a giant difference, a high CFM electric radiator fan. Night and day! The condenser is undersized though and no matter what it’s not gonna compare to other cars that were designed better. I’ve been kicking around the idea of a atomized water spray system built with a window washer pump and reservoir from the junk yard and some jets from McMastercarr for the situations that still need improvement, ie 95degF ambient temps in a drive thru line.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  17. It would be great to have a way to identify an OE part over a rebuild. I guess the level of wear and the lack of additional markings will go a long way.. I have been waiting for years now to move forward with a sus lift because of all the mixed stories on binding. Thanks for doing all this research. I will have a close eye on the info that inevitably comes about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  18. The LSD in my 2WD 01 Frontier was able to get me places my QX4 can’t get to without being in 4WD. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  19. Welcome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  20. I have actually done that. Its response to turning the steering wheel is instant all the way to the tires. I can actually feel a little bit of a response inside the slop when I’m driving, it’s almost like the 1/2-1 inch slop makes my vehicle lean/tilt up/down but doesn’t change the trajectory of travel. I end up with variations in the pitch of the road requiring back and forth changes in steering wheel position. I mean the same thing happens in any vehicle but I end up moving the steering wheel 2-3 inches back and forth to drive in a straight line instead of 1/4-1/2 inch adjustments. I have new: control arms w/ bushings sway bar bushings sway bar end links struts rack and pinion bushings tie rods ends inner and outer ball joints
  21. Ahhh, finally no more clunking up front! F’n sway bar bushings were the culprit. I thought it was an incorrectly installed passenger strut (actually that’s probably still true...) No more avoiding rough road stuff on the passenger side and I can finally just drive the damn thing. Now if I can get slop out of the steering I’ll be golden.
  22. Great information for me on the 5w20. I too have the occasional puff of oil smoke with 5w30 so I know now not to use 5w20. What I really want to do is replace all the main/rod bearings and put a new oil pump on and see if the issue remains. Bet it doesn’t.. but at that point I’d rather slap a whole motor in there.
  23. I was kidding. However I’d replace the factory subs with IDMAX15’s.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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